Roussivau climbs

Crag: Barre du Roussivau, Esterel, France
Routes: La Revolte des Naines (f6a:led), Rencontres du Troisieme Slip (f5c:sec), Sexe=Desordre (f5c:sec), Pachyderme Story (f6a:led), Dissident Sakhapov (f5c:sec), Be the One (f5b:sec), Turn it on Again (VD!:led), Take Off* (f5c:led), Out of the Blue (f4:led), Zootomie (f5:led), Zog (f6a:sec)
The day dawned warm and sunny, easily the best weather of the trip. We were inevitably tiring, and were considering Chateaudouble, but in the end settled for the nearby crag of Roussivau. I did many routes on this crag in the 90s, and my notes from the time are very enthusiastic. So it was rather surprising to find the routes a tad disappointing: we may have been tired, or spoiled by the quality of the previous three days. More likely is the fact that I tried to do routes I hadn't done before, and therefore missed some of the classics. After another 5 mile morning run around the Castelli circuit, we drove the 2km to the crag and enjoyed the steep approach walk in glorious sunshine. La Revolte (6a) was a nice start, although slightly wet, up a crack which led to an awkward crux mantel (knees!) to a sloping ledge. The two routes on the left of this sector weren't as good as I remembered: a rock scar suggests 'evolution' had occurred in the intervening 16 years! I then led Pachyderme Story, a nice 6a line which aims for a hanging pod-like groove, which gives enjoyable bridging up to jugs. Dissident Sakhapov looks awful: mossy and green, but gives quite good steep climbing up rough, positive holds. Seconded Vic up Be the One on the main 'wave' face, before experiencing my first DNF of the trip on a short 6a+ behind the easy arete (which I then climbed to retrieve the gear). Definitely tiring now: failed again on Take Off, an undergraded very short f5c which takes a steep and insecure groove. A nasty route, giving seemingly desperate climbing on sloping holds (although tiredness was definitely a factor now). I made it to the top move, within inches of the LO, but was now completely drained of energy. Started to wind down thereafter, with a lead of the pleasant f4 which takes an obvious groove on the 'wave' face (my final tick on this face after a 16 year gap!). We finished on the lovely little slab, where I did two routes I've done numerous times before - Zootomie up the crack in the arete, and the technical slab taken by Zog. Spent some time enjoying the wonderful atmosphere of this special place, and the views over the Esterel, before starting the descent through the maquis. A great trip:, even better than last year: maximising the time available, concentrating on quality routes, very lucky with the weather, which was unsettled but dry when we needed it to be. Fortunate to dodge the ash cloud too!