Dovestones climbing

Crag: Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley
Routes: Answer Crack (HVD:sh), Question Mark (HVD:sh), Splintered Buttress (D:sol), Central Tower (VD:sol), Square Chimney (D:sh), The Direct Route (VD:sol), Crack and Chimney (M:sol), Capstone Chimney (M:sol)
A rare foray onto grit, squeezed into an hour or two as I drove home from Huddersfield. Quite an interesting venue, yet strangely neglected and certainly very different in tone from the popular crags further east. Quite exposed with views over Saddleworth and the edge of Manchester, the absolute antithesis of our trip to Baou du St Jeannet a fortnight ago! I jogged up from the reservoir in 20 mins or so, but had no guidebook and was alone, so had to make educated guesses at the routes and use a shunt at times. Answer Crack and Question Mark were very obvious, however, indeed the former must be one of the best easy climbs on grit. A juggy, straight crack - begging to be climbed - reminiscent of Heaven Crack at Stanage. Question Mark is more awkward, with some jamming involved. I then played around on the routes further left in a strong wind (but also increasing amounts of sunshine): Central Tower was good, with mini-mountaineering flavour. Some traditional chimneys followed, along with the deliciously juggy Direct Route. Jogged back, still feeling the effects of a sub-hour blast up Famau from the Collie yesterday, 10k speed session on my birthday, and an 11-miler from home to the top of Waun y Llyn and back on Saturday.

Horseshoe Pass road ride

Road cycling: HK-Horseshoe Pass-Bwlchgwyn-HK
Distance: 37m
Really struggling with my recovery at present: I was still feeling the after-effects of Saturday's race on the long climb from home to the top of the Horseshoe, despite jogs on Sunday and Monday. That said, at least cycling felt more rewarding and worthwhile in these muscle-damaged circumstances, and I am very conscious that I need to start building at least some cycling mileage into my routine if I am to enjoy the classic Tour cols during our scheduled mini-trip in July. Started very early, and therefore avoided most of the traffic. A very strong headwind buffeted me all the way, making life tricky and tiresome. Returned via the fast road through Bwlchgwyn and over to Caergwrle.

Carneddau fell race

Race: Ras Carneddau (10m/4200ft)
Peaks: Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Llewellyn, Yr Elen, Gyrn Wigau
Time/Position: 1:53:44 (5th from 50)
An improvement of 110 places on my last outing in this race, when it was part of the British Championships four years ago. A smaller field than usual today, perhaps because of the rather grim forecast. Indeed, the rain was already sweeping down a black Cwm Llafur as we started off from Gerlan. I kept a steady pace up, running all the way, until facing the gales as we moved onto the main spur down from Dafydd. Got to the wet and cold summit in 47 mins, which was encouraging, as was the fact that I then had plenty of energy for the ridge. I caught the runners in front, and a small group of five of us picked the good line east of the main ridge before starting up Llewellyn. I pulled away a little bit on this section, getting to the dank summit of Llewellyn in third place - which was rather exciting. It didn't last long, however, as the group reformed for the tricky nav through the towers along the ridge to Yr Elen. The wind really began to gust at this point, to 60-70mph, and I was knocked down twice. Great views as the cloud tore away from the ridge briefly at the col - Cwm Caseg remained hidden, while the Llafur slopes were briefly sunlit. The steep descent over Foel Ganol went well, enjoying the scree and staying third or fourth, but I gradually started to lose ground as the cloud cleared and we all scattered for the very long, steep but grassy descent to wild Cwm Caseg (last walked up in the icy weather of February 2010). I knew that an awful energy-sapping bog awaited, but it wasn't too bad apart from one somersaulting fall - and I still felt OK on the final cruel climb up Gyrn Wigau. Got very close to the two in front, but couldn't catch them, and they stayed ahead for the contouring, awkward and boggy terrain down to the finish above Bethesda. A classic race, arguably the 3rd hardest in North Wales, run in quite challenging conditions.

Saint-Jeannet climbing

Crag: Baou de Saint-Jeannet, Provence
Routes: L'Arete Sud (uD- 3,5,5,4,5:led p.1,3,5), Le Gruyere (f5:sec), La Fondue (f5:sec), Dernier Archipel (f5+:led*), Le Parapluie (f4+:led)
Our flight left Nice in the evening, so we had the perfect opportunity to get to grips with this crag, which is so obvious from the airport and environs. I'd last visited the place in 1994 with Tim, but had never climbed on the main face. I was a little too tired for the big routes today, so we settled on L'Arete Sud which takes the line its name suggests up the edge of the shorter and less intimidating South Pillar. Amazing clarity of light this morning, following the Mistral, with the Maritime Alps looking superb and Corsica remarkably clear even from the village of St Jeannet as we walked through. A steep path through the pretty village gave a delightful start to the day, and leads to woods then the traverse to the base of the main face. The arete is an obvious line, and I led an easy first pitch up a shallow groove to gain a cave. Vic led a good but polished second up a steep, slanting groove to a very big ledge which briefly spoiled the route. My third pitch took an awkward wall before a big ledge leads back left to gain a stance on the arete. An easy fourth pitch over blocks, before I completed the climb with a slightly loose fifth pitch weaving up more short walls, corners and blocks to the top of the pillar in a fine position. Very simple stuff, low end VS, but ideal for the day. We moved quickly up this 120m route, and it did give us something of the flavour and atmosphere of the crag. Most notably, the views were truly outstanding. From each belay, it was hard to know what to look at. I could see planes taking off from Calvi airport in Corsica, with Monte Cinto beyond, as well as Esterel, Nice, the Var valley, St Jeannet and its swimming pools directly below, all in perfect clarity. We descended via the middle tier and grabbed a few more routes before we finished. Gruyere and Fondue take pocketed slabs and grooves, as their names suggest. The latter saw the rope flick needles off a juniper bush, one of which landed in my eye and caused discomfort before emerging much later as we were driving to the airport. Dernier Archipel is a mini-classic taking a steep flake to an overhang. I then traversed too far right, very strenuous, with nothing for my feet, before losing strength. I later seconded it cleanly: it was actually a straightforward direct move over the overhang, reaching up for a juggy vertical pocket to pull over and gain a delicate slab. I finished by leading the juggy but very steep and polished corner of Le Parapluie, which I also lead 17 years ago! Strength failing, acknowledging that we were finally climbed out after an excellent trip, we called it a day and headed back to the village.

Chateauvert climbing

Crag: Chateauvert, Provence
Routes: Lycopodium (f4+:led), Le Diktaton (f4+:sec), Les Odeurs du Charme (f5+:sec), Are you Radin? (f5:led), La Flemme Fatale (f5+:sec), Technogene (f5+:led), Grosse et Caille (f5:led), Desire de Velours (f5+:sec), Aladdin (f4+:led), Alex (f5:sec)
A strong mistral blew today, giving perfect clarity of light but also forcing us towards more sheltered venues. I wanted to sample Chateauvert anyway, and it fitted the bill as a wonderful collection of crags in a secluded, wooded valley that is only a tad more than an hour away from Esterel. However, I hadn't quite realised how good it was - with fabulous climbing at every grade - and, as an obvious result, how wildly popular on the easier routes. A two minute walk-in adds to the attractions for families, youth groups, and all manner of leisure climbers. We started in the Technogene area, with Lycopodium a tremendous start. Steep moves on huge holds led to a fantastic flake, then wonderful easy climbing up the face on stupendously good, rough limestone (the best yet). Enormous juggy pockets characterise the upper wall here. A great route, as was La Diktaton which gives more brilliant jug-pulling up the face to the right. We moved left onto the ledge that gives access to a range of steeper routes up an obvious pillar. All the routes here are of superb quality: 25m pitches giving absorbing climbing on sharp pockets. After a 5c+ up the left side, I led Are you Radin, which is something a little different as it takes a steep, deep cleft/gully left of the pillar. It reminded me a little of Profit au Tyrol on Perthus. Steep easy bridging builds to a very steep climax with long reaches to jugs. We then polished off the rest of the routes on the pillar: outstanding stuff with great moves. Flemme Fatale was perhaps the best, certainly the hardest, and depended on a reachy crux right at the top. Eventually, the classic arete of Technogene became available as the big groups went off for lunch, so I led it. This involves a rather fierce start up the slightly overhanging lower wall to gain easier but still interesting climbing up the arete in a great position. Exhilarating in the bright sunshine and strong mistral wind. Lunch at the car beckoned, before we headed up to the Alex area for more great routes. I led Grosse et Caille up a fine flake and wall, wonderful throughout, while Vic led the superb Desire de Velours (sharp crimps, steep walls) as well as the easier classic Alex, which takes a fine groove before heading off up the steep headwall. Superb stuff, with ten routes dispatched - eight of which were three star classics. After four days of (literally) non-stop climbing, we were beginning to tire a little, so headed for home earlier than usual and even had time for a swift half at the bar later.

Mont Coudon climbing

Crag: Mont Coudon, Toulon, Provence
Routes: Le Petit Surplomb (f5,f5:led), Banana Way (f4:led), Les Bidasses en Folie (f4+:sec), Ballade pour Agnes (f4+:sec), Le Voleur de Baghdad (f5+:sec), Le Grand Toit (f5+,f5+,f4+:led p.1), La Saint Maclou (f5,f5+:led p.1)
We had deliberately visited the Calanques yesterday to avoid the weekend crowds, but I feared we may have the same problem today - as the crags above Toulon were on the agenda. Amazingly, however, we only met one other team on this superb crag that rises directly above the motorway and overlooks the whole of the city. Mont Coudon, on the east of the city, was the obvious choice for us as it enabled us to avoid the centre, although there are a ludicrous number of fine crags to choose from on the miniature mountains that encircle Toulon. We parked in the wrong place, too low down the hill, and had some jungle bashing before locating the scrambling descent that leads to the crag. We were delighted to find excellent solid and remarkably unpolished, rough limestone: another tremendous venue. The mistral had started to blow, and the day alternated between weird low cloud and wind, and hot sunshine. Generally, however, conditions were ideal. I began with a lead of Le Petit Surplomb, a two pitch affair next to the descent path. I merged the first steep slab with the second pitch, which goes easily to an overhang which doesn't look quite so 'petit' when you are underneath it. Great moves lead to a bolt on the edge, then a high reach for perfect jugs allow you to pull over. A strenuous and cracking start. We then did three shorter routes nearby (my lead was the juggy and simple Banana Way), a mixture of shallow grooves and small overlaps - all excellent fun on good frictional rock. After a five minute break for lunch, we moved to the bigger routes further left and Vic led Le Voleur de Baghdad - which requires a scramble up a vegetated corner to reach and looks unpromising (particularly as the cloud came down briefly). However, it gave another excellent three star classic trip up a steep slab with satisfying moves on positive crimps. Again, peerless rough grey limestone. Sustained and thought-provoking the whole way, with the crux moves involving the negotiation of a small overhang right at the top after 35m of climbing. The cliff continues to grow as you move left, and all the cloud dissolved as we began the next route of Le Grand Toit - presumably a local classic as it is a strong line up a thin crack to an obvious overhang ('roof' is a slight exaggeration). The first pitch is technical and polished for the first 20ft, with moves on small edges to gain the rougher limestone above. Huge pockets and jugs led to a small ledge where I belayed. A great spot, looking down to Ikea and Carrefour (!) with the city and the Isles d'Hyeres stretching beyond. Vic merged the last two pitches: hard and sustained moves up a hairline crack, a prolonged crux, gain a rest before the 'roof', which is bizarrely the easiest section of the climb. Perfectly placed jugs mean this goes at low-end VS after E1-ish climbing on the more innocuous-looking sections below. For an appropriate finale, we moved left again to the showpiece of the crag: the grandes voies area. A mouthwatering choice of multipitch routes confronted us: we selected La Saint Maclou and it gave one of the routes of the trip. I led up the 40m first pitch. Just wonderful, absorbing climbing up superb positive pockets. Never difficult, but tremendously enjoyable moves throughout. The evening sun lit the mountain perfectly as Vic led up the final pitch above a small sloping stance. This was another 40m affair, much steeper, directly above the belay on rough pockets, then moving right under a bulge to a hard crux up a steep wall on small crimps and finger pockets. Immaculate climbing and a fantastic route. Two abs saw us back down with an inch or two to spare on each one! The long walk back to the car was enjoyable in the evening sunshine after another long day.

Calanques climbing

Crag: En Vau, Calanques, Provence
Routes: Sirene Lieutard (uD- 4+,4+,3+,4:led p.1,3), Face a la Mer (f5+:led), La Saphir (uAD+ 4+,3,5,3+:led p.2,4)
A legendary venue, but visiting it and doing it some kind of justice in a single day was always going to be difficult given the distance from the caravan and the length of the walk-in. The fact that we achieved it was very satisfying, if a tad wearying. We reached the car park after 2 hours and a 160km+ journey. The parking is deliberately distant from the Calanques, for the excellent reason that this is a truly stunning locale located right next to a huge metropolis. En Vau was an easy choice: the most classic and beautiful Calanque of all. The walk-in reminded me of the walk in to Petra. Initially, you get the odd tantalising glimpse of the sea and the calanque, but then it remains hidden from view as you drop down into twisting limestone valleys. The walls get ever higher and the valley ever tighter until, eventually, you emerge at the beach with dazzling white limestone cliffs and aiguilles all around. However, the beauty of the place doesn't really reveal itself until you begin to climb, so we selected the grand old classic of Sirene Lieutard for our first route - by necessity, an easy climb that we could move quickly on. This takes a weaving line up the beautiful pillar 200m inland from the beach (Le Sirene). I led a nice first pitch up a long 30m rib, at around UK HS or a little harder, inevitably quite polished. Steady and satisfying climbing, with good nuts, pegs and occasional bolts to protect. A tricky move up a little chimney gains a belay just left of the rib line. Vic led up p.2, a very steep start for the grade, ultra-polished in places (given 6a by some). A move right to the arete gains easier climbing up the broken gully. Just scrambling now, as I continued across the broken gully to 'thread the needle' by climbing through a huge hole and emerging on a final ridge to breathtaking views of the Calanque. In fact, the top belay on Sirene Lieutard was the first time we really appreciated the stunning beauty of the place, and must rate as one of the finest belay stances I've ever had! A short pitch up the rib gained the top. A nightmare descent followed, as inadequate guidebook descriptions meant we had to traverse across several gullies before eventually locating a tortuous (and very hot) descent through steep crags that kept us unsure until we emerged on a traverse path to the beach. This lost us over an hour of valuable time (and many kcals of energy!), so after a quick bite I grabbed a quick ascent of one of the routes on the Petit Aiguille, the obvious little needle that rises behind the beach and has been climbed on since the nineteenth century. The line was Face a la Mer, a f5+ which goes up an obvious weakness - a series of grooves and corners - to the top. After lowering off, another team infuriatingly got in front of us for Le Saphir, another famous 'mountaineering' route of En Vau, which is the classic way to end a day in the calanque (by climbing out along the ridge). After a frustrating sun-baked wait, Vic led the polished first pitch - a dazzling white pillar of limestone with deep blue sky beyond - giving me the rambling second along a narrow, horizontal Alpine ridge. Just walking really, but truly stunning views in all directions. Vic led a long, merged third up the final pillar. This was tricky to follow given the weight of my sac (with a day's provisions in it) but splendid climbing again on good polished holds. I then led an easy final pitch up the arete in a magnificent position to the plateau. Lovely ambience as we finished, evening light with some light sea mist drifting in. A long, hard walk-out along the plateau followed.

Chateaudouble climbing

Crag: Les Marinouns, Chateaudouble, Provence
Routes: Un Point de Vie (f4+,f5+:led p.1), Le Bonheur est aux Marinouns (f4+:sec), Le Kinous de Nous (f4:sec), Ote Zoriel? (f4:sec), Le Moucat a perdu (f4:sec), Abraracourcix p.1 (f5+:led), Le Mage a Dit (f5:led), La Moucat (f4+:sec),Douce France! (F5+:sec), L'Echelle au Pepe (f5:led), Lumiere de Noel p.1 (f5+:sec)
The first day of our five-day Provencal climbing trip, the third year in succession we have made a May visit. This year, the intention was to broaden our horizons, to embrace some long drives and visit new crags. Chateaudouble was the obvious starting point, only an hour's drive from Esterel and in a tranquil and beautiful valley that I already knew from trips to the Verdon. Numerous crags are scattered around the gorge, presenting us with a difficult choice, although Les Marinouns seemed most likely to offer the high quality yet modestly graded routes we were after. Steep limestone was likely to characterise the trip, and I knew that (given the strenuous reality of this kind of climbing) I didn't have enough recent climbing mileage to climb anything remotely demanding. The crag was tricky to locate, and it felt like we were miles from anywhere, with the crag to ourselves, as we climbed the first few warm up pitches on the slab below the obvious groove line of Point de Vie. These were all simple and delightful: the crag was sun-drenched, the scent of the maquis was powerful, the road far below closed so birdsong the only sound. Classic haute Provence ambience. After pissaladiere for an appropriately regional lunch, I led up the first section of Abraracourcix, which had a few technical, steep moves up a pillar on small edges (UK 5b), before Vic led the big groove line upper pitch of Un Point de Vie (I'd already led the delicate first pitch up a vague groove). The top groove is a great, strong VS line: some vegetation but a perfect introduction to the superb hard grey limestone that characterises the crag. Good jugs up the groove to moves left onto a small headwall in a really good position. This gains the big cave obvious from below. At least 50-60m up, so we abbed down, before moving left to the Mage a Dit section. I led this route, which climbs a very pleasant rib just left of a deep corner. Lovely climbing again, on superb rough rock: given 3 stars in the guide although 2 is perhaps appropriate. The line to the left, La Moucat, starts steeply up a corner before easing off to more slabby rib climbing. Vic then led Douce France, a really splendid climb further right. It looks undistinguished from below, but actually provides a wonderful very long (35m+) and sustained pitch at 5+. It goes straight up the face, through three bulges, all on immaculate grey pocketed limestone. Never too hard, but continually absorbing. We were beginning to dehydrate in the very warm sunshine, but were eager to finish on the main section of cliff further right. I fancied the obvious huge flake taken by L'Echelle au Pepe, and was not disappointed. Yet another three star classic (the 4th of the day). It goes easily to an undercut flake. Quite powerful, excellent moves along this gain the main flake line. This then gives quite superb climbing: a mixture of bridging and big juggy face holds. Never remotely difficult, but classic stuff throughout. The corner continues for at least 20 more metres giving another huge pitch. Vic finished a great opening day with the first pitch of Lumiere de Noel, which takes the opposing corner groove to the previous route via some delicate bridging, an arm jam, and a steep but juggy corner. Fabulous views down the valley, with the village of Chateaudouble perched above the steep gorge. A superb venue and a great start to the trip.

Llangynhafal Loop

Race: Llangynhafal Loop fell race (4.75m/1750ft/AS)
Time/Position: 45:52 (15th from 101)
The second Welsh champs race of the season, so it was a tad disappointing to feel under par for this fine race. Always an enjoyable outing, though, with a great friendly atmosphere, and I was all of 15 seconds quicker than last year. I may have been tired after recent events, as I certainly didn't feel as good as I did on Wednesday, particularly struggling on the descents. We had the novelty of some light rain before the start, which moistened the ground nicely for the fast initial sprint to Nant y Ne. I felt quite good on the gently rising climb to the gully, and kept my place over the misty summit before starting to lose ground on the ridge. Still conscious of my knee injury during steep descents (MRI scan this morning!) and also found the final sting in the tail worse than usual this year, as the bilberry plants were higher.

Pot Hole climbing

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: The Dog (HVS 5b:TR), Right Wall (E1 5c:TR), Ceba (E1 5b:TR), Canine Meander (E2 5b:TR), Id (E1 5c:TR)
A much needed workout before next week's spring cragging trip to Provence. As usual, this was too little too late for training purposes. Warm sunshine interspersed with light showers, although we only had 90 minutes or so at our disposal. Given the recent lack of climbing, I felt OK, enjoying the positive little crimps and edges on Right Wall and Canine Meander in particular. We then did a shorter version of the usual Collie run, turning round at the farm and contouring the hillside lower down, mindful of tomorrow's race.

Dinas Bran fell race

Race: Ysgol Dinas Bran (4.3m/1250ft/AS)
Time/Position: 32:59 (4th from 52 [2nd V40])
If my records are correct, this was my 200th race. It was also my first ever 'fell race' eight years ago, although it is hardly typical of the genre. Given all the long slow runs last week in Scotland, and the fact that this race is pretty short and intense, it went a lot better than I'd expected. The very steep 'donkey track' leads from the school up to the contouring path, before the steep climb up to the castle itself. Neil and Jez were good targets up ahead, though very distant, and I gradually picked up a few places after a fast descent. The second climb back to the castle is always tough, so I chose to stride it then open up as best I could on the descent. A good revived event, really enjoyable. I picked up the V40 prize, although the winner was also in the category.