Dovestones climbing

Crag: Dovestones Edge, Chew Valley
Routes: Answer Crack (HVD:sh), Question Mark (HVD:sh), Splintered Buttress (D:sol), Central Tower (VD:sol), Square Chimney (D:sh), The Direct Route (VD:sol), Crack and Chimney (M:sol), Capstone Chimney (M:sol)
A rare foray onto grit, squeezed into an hour or two as I drove home from Huddersfield. Quite an interesting venue, yet strangely neglected and certainly very different in tone from the popular crags further east. Quite exposed with views over Saddleworth and the edge of Manchester, the absolute antithesis of our trip to Baou du St Jeannet a fortnight ago! I jogged up from the reservoir in 20 mins or so, but had no guidebook and was alone, so had to make educated guesses at the routes and use a shunt at times. Answer Crack and Question Mark were very obvious, however, indeed the former must be one of the best easy climbs on grit. A juggy, straight crack - begging to be climbed - reminiscent of Heaven Crack at Stanage. Question Mark is more awkward, with some jamming involved. I then played around on the routes further left in a strong wind (but also increasing amounts of sunshine): Central Tower was good, with mini-mountaineering flavour. Some traditional chimneys followed, along with the deliciously juggy Direct Route. Jogged back, still feeling the effects of a sub-hour blast up Famau from the Collie yesterday, 10k speed session on my birthday, and an 11-miler from home to the top of Waun y Llyn and back on Saturday.