Mont Coudon climbing

Crag: Mont Coudon, Toulon, Provence
Routes: Le Petit Surplomb (f5,f5:led), Banana Way (f4:led), Les Bidasses en Folie (f4+:sec), Ballade pour Agnes (f4+:sec), Le Voleur de Baghdad (f5+:sec), Le Grand Toit (f5+,f5+,f4+:led p.1), La Saint Maclou (f5,f5+:led p.1)
We had deliberately visited the Calanques yesterday to avoid the weekend crowds, but I feared we may have the same problem today - as the crags above Toulon were on the agenda. Amazingly, however, we only met one other team on this superb crag that rises directly above the motorway and overlooks the whole of the city. Mont Coudon, on the east of the city, was the obvious choice for us as it enabled us to avoid the centre, although there are a ludicrous number of fine crags to choose from on the miniature mountains that encircle Toulon. We parked in the wrong place, too low down the hill, and had some jungle bashing before locating the scrambling descent that leads to the crag. We were delighted to find excellent solid and remarkably unpolished, rough limestone: another tremendous venue. The mistral had started to blow, and the day alternated between weird low cloud and wind, and hot sunshine. Generally, however, conditions were ideal. I began with a lead of Le Petit Surplomb, a two pitch affair next to the descent path. I merged the first steep slab with the second pitch, which goes easily to an overhang which doesn't look quite so 'petit' when you are underneath it. Great moves lead to a bolt on the edge, then a high reach for perfect jugs allow you to pull over. A strenuous and cracking start. We then did three shorter routes nearby (my lead was the juggy and simple Banana Way), a mixture of shallow grooves and small overlaps - all excellent fun on good frictional rock. After a five minute break for lunch, we moved to the bigger routes further left and Vic led Le Voleur de Baghdad - which requires a scramble up a vegetated corner to reach and looks unpromising (particularly as the cloud came down briefly). However, it gave another excellent three star classic trip up a steep slab with satisfying moves on positive crimps. Again, peerless rough grey limestone. Sustained and thought-provoking the whole way, with the crux moves involving the negotiation of a small overhang right at the top after 35m of climbing. The cliff continues to grow as you move left, and all the cloud dissolved as we began the next route of Le Grand Toit - presumably a local classic as it is a strong line up a thin crack to an obvious overhang ('roof' is a slight exaggeration). The first pitch is technical and polished for the first 20ft, with moves on small edges to gain the rougher limestone above. Huge pockets and jugs led to a small ledge where I belayed. A great spot, looking down to Ikea and Carrefour (!) with the city and the Isles d'Hyeres stretching beyond. Vic merged the last two pitches: hard and sustained moves up a hairline crack, a prolonged crux, gain a rest before the 'roof', which is bizarrely the easiest section of the climb. Perfectly placed jugs mean this goes at low-end VS after E1-ish climbing on the more innocuous-looking sections below. For an appropriate finale, we moved left again to the showpiece of the crag: the grandes voies area. A mouthwatering choice of multipitch routes confronted us: we selected La Saint Maclou and it gave one of the routes of the trip. I led up the 40m first pitch. Just wonderful, absorbing climbing up superb positive pockets. Never difficult, but tremendously enjoyable moves throughout. The evening sun lit the mountain perfectly as Vic led up the final pitch above a small sloping stance. This was another 40m affair, much steeper, directly above the belay on rough pockets, then moving right under a bulge to a hard crux up a steep wall on small crimps and finger pockets. Immaculate climbing and a fantastic route. Two abs saw us back down with an inch or two to spare on each one! The long walk back to the car was enjoyable in the evening sunshine after another long day.