Crag: Clogwyn y Grochan, Nant Peris
Routes: Brant Direct (HVS 5a:sec), Slape p.2 (VS 5a:sec), Spectre (HVS 4c,5a,5a:led p.1), Kaisergebirge Wall (HVS 5b:sec)
Very conscious of the forthcoming mountain marathon, so I was happy to be passenger for most of this short day. Some drizzle and low cloud as I followed Vic up the splendid Brant Direct. Cold hands didn't help, as this route packs a lot of climbing into one short pitch up a striking corner groove line. It is quite sustained although never especially hard: just really satisfying climbing, benchmark HVS and surprisingly elegant if you get the bridging right and use the odd hand jam. Steep throughout, but with sharp little holds on the walls of the groove just where you need them. We also did the second pitch of Slape, a thin crack which leads to an awkward, steep move to gain a diagonal flake with little for the feet. Strenuous moves left gain huge holds and a mantel finish. I then led the first pitch of the classic Spectre as the sun came out (briefly). A tricky start up a steep crack, pinch grips and small footholds, leads to a better hold on the left slab. Some nice moves up the continuation crack gain flakes, then a ledge further right leading to easy climbing up slabs to the base of the obvious groove. This gives a superb pitch, one of the best HVS pitches in Snowdonia, nicely sustained at the standard and in a great position, which becomes quite exposed and a tad more delicate as you leave the splendid groove to negotiate the small overhang. Satisfying climbing: steep and juggy. After a romp across a slab, the final pitch is what gives the route its 'character'. A fierce 30ft crack, rather polished, in which a committing layback leads strenuously up to a widening of the crack which becomes a niche into which you must insert yourself for a hands-off but uncomfortable rest. The crack doesn't relent in steepness, but does provide some good fist-jams to pull out of the niche. Kaisergerbirge Wall was a ludicrously appropriate finale, as I will be in the real Kaisergerbirge this time next week! It gives a splendid pitch and a welcome contrast from all the steepness on this crag. An easy but long and satisfying rising traverse - lovely climbing - gains a platform in an exposed position. Then comes the crux, supposedly 5b, but which felt more like VS 4c (as did the whole route) to me. Possibly reach-dependent. The steep groove has nice little holds for the feet and good positive small jugs throughout - an excellent route but by far the easiest of the day.
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Dash in the Daylight
Race: Dash in the Daylight trail/fell race (4m/1200ft)
Time/Position: 24:16 (4th from 45 [1st V40])
Another exciting race with another very close finish. Huge crowds of mountain bikers, al fresco dining, a barbeque and warm evening sunshine made for a stark contrast with the usual midwinter 'dashes in the dark', of which I must have done six or seven. But it was great to be able to see your surroundings (and feet!) for a change. Neil and Jez went ahead again, after a thigh-deep plunge through a stream gave access to the fast downhill running past the lake. I gradually gained places to find myself third, and was reasonably confident of staying there. As we moved back around the lake and down the very steep climb through the woods I started to gain on Neil. I felt good for the final rise to the finish (a steepish 300m climb) but Neil managed to up the pace and I was unable to catch him. Worse, the young lad who had been close behind for the entire race put a youthful spurt on in the last 50 metres and went past me. In the end, there was just a few seconds between the three of us (and a two minute gap to fifth). Great race again, although possibly a little close to the weekend's Klets for comfort.
Time/Position: 24:16 (4th from 45 [1st V40])
Another exciting race with another very close finish. Huge crowds of mountain bikers, al fresco dining, a barbeque and warm evening sunshine made for a stark contrast with the usual midwinter 'dashes in the dark', of which I must have done six or seven. But it was great to be able to see your surroundings (and feet!) for a change. Neil and Jez went ahead again, after a thigh-deep plunge through a stream gave access to the fast downhill running past the lake. I gradually gained places to find myself third, and was reasonably confident of staying there. As we moved back around the lake and down the very steep climb through the woods I started to gain on Neil. I felt good for the final rise to the finish (a steepish 300m climb) but Neil managed to up the pace and I was unable to catch him. Worse, the young lad who had been close behind for the entire race put a youthful spurt on in the last 50 metres and went past me. In the end, there was just a few seconds between the three of us (and a two minute gap to fifth). Great race again, although possibly a little close to the weekend's Klets for comfort.
Monday, June 27, 2011
Horseshoe 'four climbs' circuit
Road ride: HK-Bwlch Penbarras-The Shelf-Horseshoe Pass-World's End-HK
Distance: 70k
Hot weather, at last, so another valuable opportunity to push the climbing mileage and at least partially replicate Alpine conditions. Given other commitments, this was likely to be one of the last biggish cycling outings before the Alpine trip so again I tried to maximise the climbing mileage, given that I only had the morning free. Left quite early, but it was already hot and humid as I climbed from home over to Mold then up to the surprisingly steep climb at Gwernymynydd. After Cadole, I left the main road for the climb up to Bwlch Penbarras from this easier eastern side, arriving at the top 52 minutes after leaving home. Superbly clear views over to Eryri, temperatures really quite high now. Soared down the steep side of the Bwlch to Llanbedr DC, then enjoyed a flat interlude on the Graianrhyd road before taking what I hoped was the turning for the Shelf (which I've never done before). This gives a splendid climb of 6k or so, kicking up occasionally but generally a steady and longish climb by Welsh standards. Exceptionally quiet road, with beautiful views: a great discovery. I had a quick snack at Llandegla before starting the next climb on the day's agenda - up to the top of the Horseshoe. After the usual superb descent, very quiet today, I headed back up to Pentredwr from the Britannia, then the contouring path round to Eglwyseg and the final climb of the day up to World's End. This is generally steady with short steep kicks, before really kicking up after the ford below the crag. I've run up this on several occasions, so was quite surprised to find it easier than expected. Still very steep, mind, and I was admittedly in my smallest gear by now. Welcome shade throughout, until the easier climbing over Minera moor which follows. This gives superb riding, despite the potholes, and leads to the descent to Minera and final climb from Coedpoeth to gain the descent to Cefn y Bedd.
Distance: 70k
Hot weather, at last, so another valuable opportunity to push the climbing mileage and at least partially replicate Alpine conditions. Given other commitments, this was likely to be one of the last biggish cycling outings before the Alpine trip so again I tried to maximise the climbing mileage, given that I only had the morning free. Left quite early, but it was already hot and humid as I climbed from home over to Mold then up to the surprisingly steep climb at Gwernymynydd. After Cadole, I left the main road for the climb up to Bwlch Penbarras from this easier eastern side, arriving at the top 52 minutes after leaving home. Superbly clear views over to Eryri, temperatures really quite high now. Soared down the steep side of the Bwlch to Llanbedr DC, then enjoyed a flat interlude on the Graianrhyd road before taking what I hoped was the turning for the Shelf (which I've never done before). This gives a splendid climb of 6k or so, kicking up occasionally but generally a steady and longish climb by Welsh standards. Exceptionally quiet road, with beautiful views: a great discovery. I had a quick snack at Llandegla before starting the next climb on the day's agenda - up to the top of the Horseshoe. After the usual superb descent, very quiet today, I headed back up to Pentredwr from the Britannia, then the contouring path round to Eglwyseg and the final climb of the day up to World's End. This is generally steady with short steep kicks, before really kicking up after the ford below the crag. I've run up this on several occasions, so was quite surprised to find it easier than expected. Still very steep, mind, and I was admittedly in my smallest gear by now. Welcome shade throughout, until the easier climbing over Minera moor which follows. This gives superb riding, despite the potholes, and leads to the descent to Minera and final climb from Coedpoeth to gain the descent to Cefn y Bedd.
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Hope Mountain circuit
MTB Route: Hope Mountain double circuit
Distance: 25m
The weather was still rather damp this morning after our soaking on yesterday's race. I wasn't especially tired though, and remain very conscious of having to increase my bike climbing mileage before the Alpine cycling trip next month. Too wet and windy for the road bike, so I just maximised the climbs on the Mountain Bike, heading from home up Waun y Llyn. I remembered too late that a new gearing fault means I can't access the small ring, so ended up making an audacious (and unintentional) middle ring ascent of this very steep climb! Down to Llanfynydd, then up the slightly less steep climb to the top of the road up to Cae Hic/Blaenau. Quickly down to Coed Talon via Treuddyn, then back up to the top of Waun y Llyn - which is equally steep from this side and again saw futile but increasingly desperate attempts to get onto the small ring. Good off-road riding south along the ridgetop bridleway before a quick descent home via Horeb.
Distance: 25m
The weather was still rather damp this morning after our soaking on yesterday's race. I wasn't especially tired though, and remain very conscious of having to increase my bike climbing mileage before the Alpine cycling trip next month. Too wet and windy for the road bike, so I just maximised the climbs on the Mountain Bike, heading from home up Waun y Llyn. I remembered too late that a new gearing fault means I can't access the small ring, so ended up making an audacious (and unintentional) middle ring ascent of this very steep climb! Down to Llanfynydd, then up the slightly less steep climb to the top of the road up to Cae Hic/Blaenau. Quickly down to Coed Talon via Treuddyn, then back up to the top of Waun y Llyn - which is equally steep from this side and again saw futile but increasingly desperate attempts to get onto the small ring. Good off-road riding south along the ridgetop bridleway before a quick descent home via Horeb.
Friday, June 24, 2011
Tattenhall Tough Team race
Race: Tattenhall Tough Team (9m+)
Time/Position: 59:45 (14th from 160 [5th Team from 52])
Strangely enough, I'd never done this well-known and long established team event before. It's a real cracker - involving teams of three with the overall finish time taken from the slowest runner (clearly, as I was in a team with Jez and Eric from Buckley there was a distinct and rather stressful possibility that would be me!). The road sections were inevitably a bit of a shock to the system, as I haven't raced on roads in anger since last November, but I thoroughly enjoyed the XC racing through the woods of the Peckforton hills. We all set off at a quick but steady pace in heavy rain - climbing up quite steeply to Burwardsley and sticking together well. It was a relief to enter the woods and leave the tarmac although Jez sped off at this point, so I held back a bit for Eric. However, I ended up moving ahead on the first steep climb through the woods - which echoed fell racing and suited me nicely. After some splendid trail running through fields and woods, the infamous 'railway' arrived sooner than anticipated. This kicks up immediately, and then gets steeper and steeper until it briefly equates to the hardest sections of any Welsh fell race before the top. Slippery moss and mud between the rails made life tricky at times. A fast, fun descent through woods leads to narrow paths across a series of fields before regaining the road and retracing the outward route at Burwardsley. I was slowed by a stitch here, again hardly surprising given my lack of recent road running.
Time/Position: 59:45 (14th from 160 [5th Team from 52])
Strangely enough, I'd never done this well-known and long established team event before. It's a real cracker - involving teams of three with the overall finish time taken from the slowest runner (clearly, as I was in a team with Jez and Eric from Buckley there was a distinct and rather stressful possibility that would be me!). The road sections were inevitably a bit of a shock to the system, as I haven't raced on roads in anger since last November, but I thoroughly enjoyed the XC racing through the woods of the Peckforton hills. We all set off at a quick but steady pace in heavy rain - climbing up quite steeply to Burwardsley and sticking together well. It was a relief to enter the woods and leave the tarmac although Jez sped off at this point, so I held back a bit for Eric. However, I ended up moving ahead on the first steep climb through the woods - which echoed fell racing and suited me nicely. After some splendid trail running through fields and woods, the infamous 'railway' arrived sooner than anticipated. This kicks up immediately, and then gets steeper and steeper until it briefly equates to the hardest sections of any Welsh fell race before the top. Slippery moss and mud between the rails made life tricky at times. A fast, fun descent through woods leads to narrow paths across a series of fields before regaining the road and retracing the outward route at Burwardsley. I was slowed by a stitch here, again hardly surprising given my lack of recent road running.
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Hotfoot up Famau fell race
Race: Hotfoot up Famau (3.5m/1200ft/AS)
Time/Position: 38:48 (10th from 103 [4th V40])
An unusually strong field for this brutal little race this year. A good thing, too, removing the flattering security blanket that saw me finish 3rd at the Beast last week and win my category at Moel Hebog. As with last Saturday, I was a few seconds slower than last year (7 to be precise!) when I finished 4th overall. This evening, I felt a little tired after a long and stressful day at work, and lost ground even before the first descent, as a number of runners took a short-cut. This made it hard to overtake on the narrow (potentially very fast) paths down to the valley, although I did get a clear run at the steep climb up Moel y Gaer after plunging painfully through a head-height gorse bush. Good running along the ridge, battling all the way with Simon E, and down to Nant y Ne on lovely yielding soil before the leap over the stream at the bottom. I began to blow a little as we approached the gully, earlier than usual. Simon went past in the gully, but I managed to stick with him and pulled away at the start of the descent. He soon caught me, and we had a tremendous battle on the descent, passing two lads half our age in the process. I had vaguely hoped to save some energy where possible on this race, with a view to Friday's team race, although that is easier said than done on a course like this!
Time/Position: 38:48 (10th from 103 [4th V40])
An unusually strong field for this brutal little race this year. A good thing, too, removing the flattering security blanket that saw me finish 3rd at the Beast last week and win my category at Moel Hebog. As with last Saturday, I was a few seconds slower than last year (7 to be precise!) when I finished 4th overall. This evening, I felt a little tired after a long and stressful day at work, and lost ground even before the first descent, as a number of runners took a short-cut. This made it hard to overtake on the narrow (potentially very fast) paths down to the valley, although I did get a clear run at the steep climb up Moel y Gaer after plunging painfully through a head-height gorse bush. Good running along the ridge, battling all the way with Simon E, and down to Nant y Ne on lovely yielding soil before the leap over the stream at the bottom. I began to blow a little as we approached the gully, earlier than usual. Simon went past in the gully, but I managed to stick with him and pulled away at the start of the descent. He soon caught me, and we had a tremendous battle on the descent, passing two lads half our age in the process. I had vaguely hoped to save some energy where possible on this race, with a view to Friday's team race, although that is easier said than done on a course like this!
Saturday, June 18, 2011
Moel Hebog fell race
Race: Ras Moel Hebog (4m/2400ft/AS)
Time/Position: 56:10 (4th from 25 [1st V40])
Shame about the small turnout, as this is a great event and a classic race. My time was a little slower than last year, presumably because I picked an appalling initial line down from the summit. The weather was cloudy but mild and still as we set off from the village to pick up the tracks that lead to the main ridge line. I found myself gradually moving through the field into third place and had to pick the line through the boulders as we approached the summit (because the first two runners were miles ahead of the rest of the field). My line of ascent was reasonably direct, emerging on the summit ridge above the normal little scrambly wall, and I pulled out a bit of a gap on my two pursuers. Some mist playing around as I stupidly plunged off the ridge towards the village far too early, to be faced by the inevitable unstable boulders and very awkward terrain. Inevitably, I was soon overtaken before I had managed to locate the right line lower down. Try as I might, I couldn't regain third spot, even though the rest of the descent went well and ended up 15 seconds or so behind third. Ice creams all round and a family walk round Beddgelert to finish.
Time/Position: 56:10 (4th from 25 [1st V40])
Shame about the small turnout, as this is a great event and a classic race. My time was a little slower than last year, presumably because I picked an appalling initial line down from the summit. The weather was cloudy but mild and still as we set off from the village to pick up the tracks that lead to the main ridge line. I found myself gradually moving through the field into third place and had to pick the line through the boulders as we approached the summit (because the first two runners were miles ahead of the rest of the field). My line of ascent was reasonably direct, emerging on the summit ridge above the normal little scrambly wall, and I pulled out a bit of a gap on my two pursuers. Some mist playing around as I stupidly plunged off the ridge towards the village far too early, to be faced by the inevitable unstable boulders and very awkward terrain. Inevitably, I was soon overtaken before I had managed to locate the right line lower down. Try as I might, I couldn't regain third spot, even though the rest of the descent went well and ended up 15 seconds or so behind third. Ice creams all round and a family walk round Beddgelert to finish.
Tuesday, June 14, 2011
The Beast fell race
Race: Up the Beast (4.5m/1500ft/AS)
Time/Position: 37:06 (3rd from 78 [1st V40])
Another route tweak for this splendid event this year. We'd already been taken round the new course a couple of times by John, so knew what to expect. Neil and Jez quickly pulled out a big gap, and I found myself in third place quite early during the fast initial mile through the woods above Maeshafn. I pulled out a small gap on Simon E on the climb up the Beast, extending this slightly over the new enjoyable scrambling section over the limestone pavement - which takes a series of chimneys and walls to the top of Bryn Alyn and is particularly well suited to climbers! Fast running over the plateau and down to the valley before the brutal (very humid) climb back up Bryn Alyn via the steepest eastern slopes. On reflection, this race must now be one of the steepest on the calendar with its limestone chimneys and hands-and-knees sections! I began to catch Neil here and tried to pull away from him on the final short climb back through the woods. There ensued an exciting eyeballs-out sprint for second place as we raced each other through the woods, with Neil finally pulling clear in the last 200m - great fun and a good speed session.
Time/Position: 37:06 (3rd from 78 [1st V40])
Another route tweak for this splendid event this year. We'd already been taken round the new course a couple of times by John, so knew what to expect. Neil and Jez quickly pulled out a big gap, and I found myself in third place quite early during the fast initial mile through the woods above Maeshafn. I pulled out a small gap on Simon E on the climb up the Beast, extending this slightly over the new enjoyable scrambling section over the limestone pavement - which takes a series of chimneys and walls to the top of Bryn Alyn and is particularly well suited to climbers! Fast running over the plateau and down to the valley before the brutal (very humid) climb back up Bryn Alyn via the steepest eastern slopes. On reflection, this race must now be one of the steepest on the calendar with its limestone chimneys and hands-and-knees sections! I began to catch Neil here and tried to pull away from him on the final short climb back through the woods. There ensued an exciting eyeballs-out sprint for second place as we raced each other through the woods, with Neil finally pulling clear in the last 200m - great fun and a good speed session.
Monday, June 13, 2011
Llanberis slate climbing
Crag: Llanberis Slate
Routes: First Stop (f5:led), Septuagenarian (f6a:led), Big Easy (f4:sec), Jagged Face (f4:sec), Ferrero Roche (MVS 4b:led), Plastic Soldier (f6a:led), Act Naturally (VS 4c:sec), Clash of the Titans (f6a:sec), Harri Bach Llanrug (f6a:led)
It was still drizzling as I neared Llanberis this morning, and since it had rained all day yesterday slate was the only realistic option. We warmed up on short and nondescript routes in Bus Stop Quarry - as Mick hadn't done much bolt clipping - before moving up to the Skyline Buttress at the top of Australia for the main business of the day. The routes in Bus Stop are wildly overgraded, and I'd done the reasonably good 'f6a' before, but worked OK as a warm-up exercise. After a bite at the car, we took the steep walk through the levels gently, mindful of tomorrow's fell race, but located it easily (it is by far the most impressive piece of rock up here). I led Plastic Soldier to begin. Even after our recent Provencal bolt clipping extravaganza, which often renders UK sports climbing a preposterously shoddy concept by comparison, I found this a fine route. It is at least 40m, absorbing and in a great exposed position looking out over the quarries and Snowdonia. The climbing is gentle for the grade, as long as you are reasonably tall, as so often with slate. Small edges, little positive holds lead up a steep slab to an overlap. This looks like the crux, but it is easy in execution - just a few moves on big holds. The position is cracking, though, and it leads to easy climbing up a smaller slab to the top. Mick then led the obvious VS line of Act Naturally - which is scruffy but interesting, taking the big stepped groove to an easy traverse ledge before finishing up the bigger continuation of the groove - partly by using ledges and big holds on the right wall of the groove. Another big pitch - we had around an inch spare on our 50m rope! I then seconded Mick up Clash of the Titans, an obvious companion to the first route, taking the right-hand side of the same slab. Not quite such a good position or route, but it did have a harder crux half way up - typical slate edging to gain a tiny flake, before easier climbing up a juggy crack to the top. After failing on a harder route (f7a?) I led Harri Bach on a different slabby wall much further right. Another reach-dependent route - which climbs a crack before a steepening series of moves on flat ledges to the top.
Routes: First Stop (f5:led), Septuagenarian (f6a:led), Big Easy (f4:sec), Jagged Face (f4:sec), Ferrero Roche (MVS 4b:led), Plastic Soldier (f6a:led), Act Naturally (VS 4c:sec), Clash of the Titans (f6a:sec), Harri Bach Llanrug (f6a:led)
It was still drizzling as I neared Llanberis this morning, and since it had rained all day yesterday slate was the only realistic option. We warmed up on short and nondescript routes in Bus Stop Quarry - as Mick hadn't done much bolt clipping - before moving up to the Skyline Buttress at the top of Australia for the main business of the day. The routes in Bus Stop are wildly overgraded, and I'd done the reasonably good 'f6a' before, but worked OK as a warm-up exercise. After a bite at the car, we took the steep walk through the levels gently, mindful of tomorrow's fell race, but located it easily (it is by far the most impressive piece of rock up here). I led Plastic Soldier to begin. Even after our recent Provencal bolt clipping extravaganza, which often renders UK sports climbing a preposterously shoddy concept by comparison, I found this a fine route. It is at least 40m, absorbing and in a great exposed position looking out over the quarries and Snowdonia. The climbing is gentle for the grade, as long as you are reasonably tall, as so often with slate. Small edges, little positive holds lead up a steep slab to an overlap. This looks like the crux, but it is easy in execution - just a few moves on big holds. The position is cracking, though, and it leads to easy climbing up a smaller slab to the top. Mick then led the obvious VS line of Act Naturally - which is scruffy but interesting, taking the big stepped groove to an easy traverse ledge before finishing up the bigger continuation of the groove - partly by using ledges and big holds on the right wall of the groove. Another big pitch - we had around an inch spare on our 50m rope! I then seconded Mick up Clash of the Titans, an obvious companion to the first route, taking the right-hand side of the same slab. Not quite such a good position or route, but it did have a harder crux half way up - typical slate edging to gain a tiny flake, before easier climbing up a juggy crack to the top. After failing on a harder route (f7a?) I led Harri Bach on a different slabby wall much further right. Another reach-dependent route - which climbs a crack before a steepening series of moves on flat ledges to the top.
Saturday, June 04, 2011
Welsh 1000m peaks fell race
Race: Welsh 1000m peaks fell race (22m/8000ft/AL)
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd, Glyder Fawr, Carnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa
Time/Position: 4:45:36 (12th from 150 [2nd V40])
Although I'd done this race twice before, it became an essential addition to the calender again this year for three reasons: first and foremost the inclusion of remeasured Glyder Fawr and consequent different route (which is far better than the old one - more logical and satisfying). It was also the race's 40th anniversary, and part of the Welsh Champs series this year. Some welcome sea mist as we set off from the usual field in Aber, which kept temperatures fairly cool for the gently rising jog above the falls to Cwm Afon Goch. However, we soon passed through the cloud on the steep pull up to the Beras - spectacularly clear views over the Carneddau. I felt pretty good, relieved to find a bit of a breeze blowing on the tops. Excellent steady running across the sun-drenched Carneddau, past a new checkpoint on Yr Aryg to pick up the contouring path to Llewellyn - passing hundreds on the mountaineer's class. I continued to pick up places on the ridge to Dafydd, then caught the leading Vet on the new steep descent to Ogwen. I turned very badly on my ankle at the bottom of this descent, and was temporarily disabled - but, as usual, that oft-damaged appendage righted itself after a bit of jogging. Hot and airless at this point, and the brief section of road through Ogwen didn't help. Next came the crux of the 'new route' - via Llyn Bochlwyd to the Gribin and up to the top of Glyder Fawr. As I've done this many, many times I knew that it potentially offered a slight respite. So I ate and drank a bit, and enjoyed the breeze and the opportunity to use my arms on the rocky crest of the ridge. My Vet rival went well clear at this point, and I saw him disappear over the summit as I gained the Glyder plateau. That was the end of that, I thought. To my surprise, however, I caught him again during the long 'red spot' descent from Glyder Fawr to PyP, and after a drink I tried to push the advantage on the lower part of the Pyg track. The Vet prize seemed in the bag as I pulled away, so I concentrated on running the flats and keeping a decent pace going elsewhere. Unbelievable numbers of tourists made the ascent even more surreal than usual. Literally nose-to-tail all the way, and hard to negotiate as fatigue really kicks in at this point. Worse, as I looked behind I could see my rival gradually moving through the crowds of tourists! There was a depressing inevitability to proceedings after that, as he went past me on the final zigzag at the top of the Pyg track. I couldn't respond, and just kept the same plodding pace to the top of Carnedd Ugain, then through more huge crowds to Snowdon and the finish. Disappointing, but to make a cycling comparison I may have missed out on the stage win but I did myself no harm in the GC - as this was the third Welsh Champs race and my time was not too bad (23m faster than my pb for the old, easier route). After a pastie and juice from the cafe, we all enjoyed a pleasant walk down to Llanberis followed by a pint in Conwy.
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd, Glyder Fawr, Carnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa
Time/Position: 4:45:36 (12th from 150 [2nd V40])
Although I'd done this race twice before, it became an essential addition to the calender again this year for three reasons: first and foremost the inclusion of remeasured Glyder Fawr and consequent different route (which is far better than the old one - more logical and satisfying). It was also the race's 40th anniversary, and part of the Welsh Champs series this year. Some welcome sea mist as we set off from the usual field in Aber, which kept temperatures fairly cool for the gently rising jog above the falls to Cwm Afon Goch. However, we soon passed through the cloud on the steep pull up to the Beras - spectacularly clear views over the Carneddau. I felt pretty good, relieved to find a bit of a breeze blowing on the tops. Excellent steady running across the sun-drenched Carneddau, past a new checkpoint on Yr Aryg to pick up the contouring path to Llewellyn - passing hundreds on the mountaineer's class. I continued to pick up places on the ridge to Dafydd, then caught the leading Vet on the new steep descent to Ogwen. I turned very badly on my ankle at the bottom of this descent, and was temporarily disabled - but, as usual, that oft-damaged appendage righted itself after a bit of jogging. Hot and airless at this point, and the brief section of road through Ogwen didn't help. Next came the crux of the 'new route' - via Llyn Bochlwyd to the Gribin and up to the top of Glyder Fawr. As I've done this many, many times I knew that it potentially offered a slight respite. So I ate and drank a bit, and enjoyed the breeze and the opportunity to use my arms on the rocky crest of the ridge. My Vet rival went well clear at this point, and I saw him disappear over the summit as I gained the Glyder plateau. That was the end of that, I thought. To my surprise, however, I caught him again during the long 'red spot' descent from Glyder Fawr to PyP, and after a drink I tried to push the advantage on the lower part of the Pyg track. The Vet prize seemed in the bag as I pulled away, so I concentrated on running the flats and keeping a decent pace going elsewhere. Unbelievable numbers of tourists made the ascent even more surreal than usual. Literally nose-to-tail all the way, and hard to negotiate as fatigue really kicks in at this point. Worse, as I looked behind I could see my rival gradually moving through the crowds of tourists! There was a depressing inevitability to proceedings after that, as he went past me on the final zigzag at the top of the Pyg track. I couldn't respond, and just kept the same plodding pace to the top of Carnedd Ugain, then through more huge crowds to Snowdon and the finish. Disappointing, but to make a cycling comparison I may have missed out on the stage win but I did myself no harm in the GC - as this was the third Welsh Champs race and my time was not too bad (23m faster than my pb for the old, easier route). After a pastie and juice from the cafe, we all enjoyed a pleasant walk down to Llanberis followed by a pint in Conwy.
Thursday, June 02, 2011
Aberglaslyn/Tremadog climbing
Crag: Aberglaslyn Gorge
Route: Canyon Rib (S 4a:led p.1,3)
Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch
Routes: Tro (HS 4a:sec), Axeover (VS 4c:sec), Oakover (VS 4c:led), Hedera (HVS 5a:sec)
Still resting before Saturday's big race, but an opportunity for a quick cragging trip presented itself. Drizzle and low cloud fortunately gave way to broken sunshine as I met Mick in Aberglaslyn - perfect conditions for the midges to feast on us as we walked up the gorge path looking for the start of Canyon Rib, which was inevitably damp. I led up the initial sharp rib, which leads easily to a large boulder overcome on big holds. Mick led up a pleasant continuation rib before crossing a gully to climb a further simple rib. This gave me the final pitch, which goes over blocks to a groove, then traverses left in a nice position to finish up a hanging arete. All very simple, but pleasant climbing in a nice, novel position above the rushing river and gorge. It works satisfyingly well as a warm-up, as we geared up at the car park, only took an hour to do the route in three pitches rather than the guidebook seven, and walked back over into Cwm Bychan and back to the car park. We drove down to Tremadog in warm sunshine and Mick nipped up the short route, Tro, at the extreme right of the crag. This gives a pleasant pitch up a short groove to blocks and a traverse right to gain a steeper wide crack. Vic then arrived, and led Axeover further left. This is a fine recently cleaned pitch up a twisting, steep groove just right of the Oakover slab. Superb rock, and very good climbing up some steep flakey cracks with a hard move left over a bulge at the top which felt 5a at least. Oakover was my lead, and a thoroughly satisfying, varied and enjoyable one. This goes up the slab right of the obvious corner taken by Hedera - small, positive holds, quite delicate. A short traverse gains the steep corner, with big holds leading up this to a tree. Then, a lovely traverse across the slab right to its edge leads to a steepish flake and blocky, easier climbing to the belay. Works very well as one long absorbing pitch. Vic then led the dramatically contrasing Hedera, which is a strenuous route up the corner just a few metres left. Awkward squirming body jams up the wide first chimney gain better holds up to the tree. Then quite powerful laybacking right along the undercut crack, strenuous with little for the feet (and a big potential pendulum!) gain more positive cracks and finally a small footledge. A trio of fine, neglected routes: ideal on a day like this, as temperatures had climbed to 25c and shade was much-appreciated - particularly as I'd forgotten my chalk. I ran down the gully from the top, jumped into the car, and drove the entire length of the national park to Conwy to pick up M and E for our scheduled camping trip to Llanfairfechan. The tent was pitched before 6.30pm and I finally got to sit down for the first time all day. A cup of tea in the sunshine outside the tent was much appreciated.
Route: Canyon Rib (S 4a:led p.1,3)
Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch
Routes: Tro (HS 4a:sec), Axeover (VS 4c:sec), Oakover (VS 4c:led), Hedera (HVS 5a:sec)
Still resting before Saturday's big race, but an opportunity for a quick cragging trip presented itself. Drizzle and low cloud fortunately gave way to broken sunshine as I met Mick in Aberglaslyn - perfect conditions for the midges to feast on us as we walked up the gorge path looking for the start of Canyon Rib, which was inevitably damp. I led up the initial sharp rib, which leads easily to a large boulder overcome on big holds. Mick led up a pleasant continuation rib before crossing a gully to climb a further simple rib. This gave me the final pitch, which goes over blocks to a groove, then traverses left in a nice position to finish up a hanging arete. All very simple, but pleasant climbing in a nice, novel position above the rushing river and gorge. It works satisfyingly well as a warm-up, as we geared up at the car park, only took an hour to do the route in three pitches rather than the guidebook seven, and walked back over into Cwm Bychan and back to the car park. We drove down to Tremadog in warm sunshine and Mick nipped up the short route, Tro, at the extreme right of the crag. This gives a pleasant pitch up a short groove to blocks and a traverse right to gain a steeper wide crack. Vic then arrived, and led Axeover further left. This is a fine recently cleaned pitch up a twisting, steep groove just right of the Oakover slab. Superb rock, and very good climbing up some steep flakey cracks with a hard move left over a bulge at the top which felt 5a at least. Oakover was my lead, and a thoroughly satisfying, varied and enjoyable one. This goes up the slab right of the obvious corner taken by Hedera - small, positive holds, quite delicate. A short traverse gains the steep corner, with big holds leading up this to a tree. Then, a lovely traverse across the slab right to its edge leads to a steepish flake and blocky, easier climbing to the belay. Works very well as one long absorbing pitch. Vic then led the dramatically contrasing Hedera, which is a strenuous route up the corner just a few metres left. Awkward squirming body jams up the wide first chimney gain better holds up to the tree. Then quite powerful laybacking right along the undercut crack, strenuous with little for the feet (and a big potential pendulum!) gain more positive cracks and finally a small footledge. A trio of fine, neglected routes: ideal on a day like this, as temperatures had climbed to 25c and shade was much-appreciated - particularly as I'd forgotten my chalk. I ran down the gully from the top, jumped into the car, and drove the entire length of the national park to Conwy to pick up M and E for our scheduled camping trip to Llanfairfechan. The tent was pitched before 6.30pm and I finally got to sit down for the first time all day. A cup of tea in the sunshine outside the tent was much appreciated.
Wednesday, June 01, 2011
Llangollen road loop
Road cycling: HK-Minera-Acrefair-Llangollen-Horseshoe Pass-Bwlchgwyn-HK
Distance: 72k/44m
Resting up before the 1000m peaks fell race on Saturday, so it seemed a good opportunity to do another road ride in preparation for the summer trip. This was an almost exact reversal of the route done on 24 February in preparation for the Cheshire Cat. It seemed a little tougher this way round, with the climb from Hope to Bwlchgwyn deceptively steep and long from this side. A strong headwind, yet again. Nice riding from Minera through Rhos and Acrefair to Llangollen, where I enjoyed a restorative chicken pie before the big climb from the town up the Horseshoe: again, considerably harder from this side particularly with a headwind (which finally turned in my favour after the last hairpin). Just over three hours, with an early start.
Distance: 72k/44m
Resting up before the 1000m peaks fell race on Saturday, so it seemed a good opportunity to do another road ride in preparation for the summer trip. This was an almost exact reversal of the route done on 24 February in preparation for the Cheshire Cat. It seemed a little tougher this way round, with the climb from Hope to Bwlchgwyn deceptively steep and long from this side. A strong headwind, yet again. Nice riding from Minera through Rhos and Acrefair to Llangollen, where I enjoyed a restorative chicken pie before the big climb from the town up the Horseshoe: again, considerably harder from this side particularly with a headwind (which finally turned in my favour after the last hairpin). Just over three hours, with an early start.
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