Grochan climbing

Crag: Clogwyn y Grochan, Nant Peris
Routes: Brant Direct (HVS 5a:sec), Slape p.2 (VS 5a:sec), Spectre (HVS 4c,5a,5a:led p.1), Kaisergebirge Wall (HVS 5b:sec)
Very conscious of the forthcoming mountain marathon, so I was happy to be passenger for most of this short day. Some drizzle and low cloud as I followed Vic up the splendid Brant Direct. Cold hands didn't help, as this route packs a lot of climbing into one short pitch up a striking corner groove line. It is quite sustained although never especially hard: just really satisfying climbing, benchmark HVS and surprisingly elegant if you get the bridging right and use the odd hand jam. Steep throughout, but with sharp little holds on the walls of the groove just where you need them. We also did the second pitch of Slape, a thin crack which leads to an awkward, steep move to gain a diagonal flake with little for the feet. Strenuous moves left gain huge holds and a mantel finish. I then led the first pitch of the classic Spectre as the sun came out (briefly). A tricky start up a steep crack, pinch grips and small footholds, leads to a better hold on the left slab. Some nice moves up the continuation crack gain flakes, then a ledge further right leading to easy climbing up slabs to the base of the obvious groove. This gives a superb pitch, one of the best HVS pitches in Snowdonia, nicely sustained at the standard and in a great position, which becomes quite exposed and a tad more delicate as you leave the splendid groove to negotiate the small overhang. Satisfying climbing: steep and juggy. After a romp across a slab, the final pitch is what gives the route its 'character'. A fierce 30ft crack, rather polished, in which a committing layback leads strenuously up to a widening of the crack which becomes a niche into which you must insert yourself for a hands-off but uncomfortable rest. The crack doesn't relent in steepness, but does provide some good fist-jams to pull out of the niche. Kaisergerbirge Wall was a ludicrously appropriate finale, as I will be in the real Kaisergerbirge this time next week! It gives a splendid pitch and a welcome contrast from all the steepness on this crag. An easy but long and satisfying rising traverse - lovely climbing - gains a platform in an exposed position. Then comes the crux, supposedly 5b, but which felt more like VS 4c (as did the whole route) to me. Possibly reach-dependent. The steep groove has nice little holds for the feet and good positive small jugs throughout - an excellent route but by far the easiest of the day.