Aberglaslyn/Tremadog climbing

Crag: Aberglaslyn Gorge
Route: Canyon Rib (S 4a:led p.1,3)
Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch
Routes: Tro (HS 4a:sec), Axeover (VS 4c:sec), Oakover (VS 4c:led), Hedera (HVS 5a:sec)
Still resting before Saturday's big race, but an opportunity for a quick cragging trip presented itself. Drizzle and low cloud fortunately gave way to broken sunshine as I met Mick in Aberglaslyn - perfect conditions for the midges to feast on us as we walked up the gorge path looking for the start of Canyon Rib, which was inevitably damp. I led up the initial sharp rib, which leads easily to a large boulder overcome on big holds. Mick led up a pleasant continuation rib before crossing a gully to climb a further simple rib. This gave me the final pitch, which goes over blocks to a groove, then traverses left in a nice position to finish up a hanging arete. All very simple, but pleasant climbing in a nice, novel position above the rushing river and gorge. It works satisfyingly well as a warm-up, as we geared up at the car park, only took an hour to do the route in three pitches rather than the guidebook seven, and walked back over into Cwm Bychan and back to the car park. We drove down to Tremadog in warm sunshine and Mick nipped up the short route, Tro, at the extreme right of the crag. This gives a pleasant pitch up a short groove to blocks and a traverse right to gain a steeper wide crack. Vic then arrived, and led Axeover further left. This is a fine recently cleaned pitch up a twisting, steep groove just right of the Oakover slab. Superb rock, and very good climbing up some steep flakey cracks with a hard move left over a bulge at the top which felt 5a at least. Oakover was my lead, and a thoroughly satisfying, varied and enjoyable one. This goes up the slab right of the obvious corner taken by Hedera - small, positive holds, quite delicate. A short traverse gains the steep corner, with big holds leading up this to a tree. Then, a lovely traverse across the slab right to its edge leads to a steepish flake and blocky, easier climbing to the belay. Works very well as one long absorbing pitch. Vic then led the dramatically contrasing Hedera, which is a strenuous route up the corner just a few metres left. Awkward squirming body jams up the wide first chimney gain better holds up to the tree. Then quite powerful laybacking right along the undercut crack, strenuous with little for the feet (and a big potential pendulum!) gain more positive cracks and finally a small footledge. A trio of fine, neglected routes: ideal on a day like this, as temperatures had climbed to 25c and shade was much-appreciated - particularly as I'd forgotten my chalk. I ran down the gully from the top, jumped into the car, and drove the entire length of the national park to Conwy to pick up M and E for our scheduled camping trip to Llanfairfechan. The tent was pitched before 6.30pm and I finally got to sit down for the first time all day. A cup of tea in the sunshine outside the tent was much appreciated.