Holyhead climbing

Crag: Penmaen Head, Colwyn Bay
Routes: Tan y Lan Kids (f5:led), Big up the Lizard (f5+:sec)
Crag: Holyhead Mountain, Anglesey
Routes: Pleasant Surprise (HS 4c:led), Teaser (VS 4c:sec), Laceration (VS 5a:sec), Candlestick (HS 4b:led), Tension (VS 4b:led), Black and Tan (VS 4c:sec)
First time on rock since Great Slab on Cloggy over six months ago. As such, this was an ideal shakedown in preparation for our imminent Provence trip, but it started badly in freezing weather at Penmaen Head. We descended to the crag to find an icy northerly blowing directly in to the sunless west face. I led the easy f5 up the juggy flowstone on numb hands before seconding the good f5+ to the left, hands now feeling like useless stumps which is not ideal on fingery limestone, then giving up after the inevitable hot flushes. We retreated to the car then commenced a lengthy detour to Holyhead in search of warmer rock. A heavy shower drenched the town as we arrived, but by the time we'd got to the crag we'd emerged from the other side of it. Very fortunate indeed. Holyhead Mountain is the perfect shakedown venue after a long break from climbing: characterised by well protected routes which often feel like soft touches. We finally got out of the biting wind by heading to the amphitheatre, where I kicked proceedings off with a lead of Pleasant Surprise, a nice route taking a slab and easy crack to a steeper short crux on positive holds. Delightful to be back on sun-drenched rock after half a year away. Vic led the obvious corner line of Teaser, which gives nice climbing on fine jams but is sadly very short. Some spits of rain but generally sunny and warm out of the wind. Laceration has a short and quite fingery crux but continued the simple theme of all the routes in this amphitheatre - another easy slab to a steepening crack. We then moved round to the left-hand buttress, with great sea views. By now, more crystal clear air rendered everything pin sharp. Cold, mind, for my route Candlestick, which took a sunless groove gained by an awkward steep entry move. The groove gave delightful HS climbing again, with abundant gear and nice little bridging moves to a steeper section moving left into the sun at the top. Nice climb at the grade. We finished the day with the two classic VS's on the bigger face further right. My lead, Tension, began with an easy crack which leads to a thread. The continuation crack then gets quite steep with an initially intimidating move left to gain the upper face. It is all as safe as houses, though, and you just know there are going to be huge holds whenever you pull up. Excellent moves gain the top of the crack, then easier but still steep climbing to the top. A splendid pitch. Vic then led Black and Tan, a fine companion route. It is slightly harder and not quite as good, but still gives great climbing as it takes the very obvious traverse line right below the large roof after sharing the initial crack with Tension. Good positive holds under the roof lead to a short technical section to pull out of the crack at the end of the roof. It was a bit frustrating to have missed all the fine rock climbing weather in March due to other commitments, but this was a pleasant consolation and a nice way to start the season.