Sainte Victoire climbing

Crag: Mont Sainte Victoire, Provence
Route: Grand Parcours (uD+/HVS 5b f5,5,5+,4+,2,3,2,4+,3,4,5+,5+,5,4:led p.1,3,5,6,8,10,12,14)
This route certainly lives up to its billing: a very 'big course' indeed, and one of the most famous mid-grade Provencal climbs. I have wanted to do it since Tim and I were rained off this fabulous crag 18 years ago, spending an afternoon sheltering in a bush gazing at this superb, huge line through the rain. This week, we had to choose our day carefully and did so, with today being the best forecast of the week, following an easy shakedown yesterday, and a working day sandwiched between a Sunday and a Bank Holiday (thereby ensuring we had the climb to ourselves). The weather was stunning, deep blue sky, warm rather than hot, as we walked in to the crag. The term 'crag' barely seems adequate to describe the 18km limestone wall of St Victoire, however! The Grand Parcours can be divided into four sections: an opening four pitches up the steep needle of Aiguille Bertine, then a broken, scrambly section which leads to a superb Alpine ridge. The obvious finale is provided by the soaring headwall of Le Signal. As I say, a beautifully elegant and compelling line which is very obvious from the A8 motorway, and grabbed me yet again as we drove to Ventoux last summer. I took the first pitch, which takes a delightful steep wall of limestone and looks hard from below. This is deceptive, however, as it is liberally furnished with hidden pockets and positive flakes which give lovely climbing. The problem, however, is that the entire wall is crisscrossed with different routes, most of which are single pitch. So following the true line of Grand Parcours is hard, initially, but also rewarding. I traversed left after 20m to gain a small ledge, then climbed delicately up superb pocketed rock to another large 'bucket' to belay in an uncomfortably cramped position. Vic then sought the easier rock left, soon gaining a simple, quite delicate slab which led to a big ledge and tree. We were now pulling away from the crag rats lower down, and my lead took the obvious steep crack past two reassuring trees. This was a good pitch, but harder than expected: the initial pull up was steep and polished, and the fixed gear notably only by its absence (one peg!). But we had a full rack, and I enjoyed the climbing up to a delightful stance overlooking Sainte Baume, heavy with the scent of Provencal herbs. Vic's pitch, the fourth, follows a slanting series of grooves diagonally left to gain some loose and easier shelves. Lovely sundrenched climbing to the tiny col at the top of the Aiguille Bertine and the end of the first section. I led a very easy long pitch, mainly walking, to the foot of the next short slabby wall, then continued up the left of this - a scrambly traverse gains a pleasant slab at around V Diff - until Vic led another scrambly pitch to gain the next major break, taken by the descent of Trace Noire. From this point, the route really unfolds: with the Signal headwall soaring intimidatingly above the ridge. First, the ridge must be gained, so I led a nice pitch up a series of enjoyable flake cracks to traverse right below the obvious overhang and belay in a tiny windgap at the start of the ridge. The wind whistled through the gap, and necessitated a fleece. Vic then led a long (70m) pitch up the superb Alpine ridge, very enjoyable, and I followed up with another long pitch which was even better, taking the obvious 15m steeper gendarme on the ridge, lovely climbing with a rare peg, to gain more knife-edged but easy climbing to the vegetated gap below the headwall. We were now out of the wind, and had a short break - relishing the views, the herbs and the tranquility - as we contemplated the onward route up the headwall. This looks even steeper from below than it looks from the motorway, but is a compelling objective. Vic led the long initial crackline, and I followed. The problem was that the sack was now becoming a real problem. It weighed several kilos with all the water, shoes and clothes, and the nature of this pitch made life awkward for me. The crack went easily up to a steep and sustained 20m section where it widened. With the big sack this became a brutal, physical struggle, very hard to get the weight off my arms with the sack pushing me out of the crack. Good characterful climbing though, with sharp holds, interesting bridging and jamming. Vic had a tiny hanging stance, and I ditched the sac with relief. The problem now was that I had the crux 5c+ pitch and was drained of energy after carrying the sac up the steep crack. Fortunately, the crux was short, up the steep left-hand crack splitting the final nose. Several old ring pegs reduced some of the stress, and I had to rest a number of times. One nut placement, to back up the old pegs, was awkward and semi-blind, taking up more of my dwindling energy. Difficult thrutchy moves finally gained a tree and easier climbing to a bigger ledge in a superb position high on the crag. The route kept coming, however, with a very steep start to the next pitch which gave Vic a few problems. I was dreading following with the big sac, as it required a very steep pull up a series of flakes before traversing left to gain an easier gully system, but in the event I'd regained some strength at the stance and managed the steep sequence reasonably well. The long series of grooves was superb, snaking left over the face to gain a tree and belay. This gave me the final pitch, our 14th, and exhilerating romp rightwards over to gain a superbly exposed rib hanging above the headwall. Easy climbing up this gained a couple of bolts and broken grooves to the summit ridge festooned with Alpine flowers and herbs. A wonderful few minutes of relaxation and recuperation, gazing out at the fantastic crystal clear views to the Rhone, the sea, Camargue, Ventoux and Maritime Alps. The day wasn't over, however, as we had to traverse the lovely ridge of St Victoire towards the Croix de Provence. I'd climbed the peak at the eastern end of the ridge, Pic de Mouches, ten years ago so it was nice to be up here again. The ridge leads to the cave of the Tunnel de Garagai, and this kicks off an intriguing and wonderful descent, which just tops the day off. Good, polished scrambling through the huge caves leads to an intricate series of grooves and shelves to gain a scree funnel. The route continues in this vein, intricate and fascinating scrambling through hostile terrain. It is basically a gradually descending traverse, the only way to negotiate the series of crags the runs along the entire length of the face. It also gives superb views of the ridge and headwall of our route in perfect evening sunshine. A long, rewarding, memorable day - more than 7 hours car to car. Pizza and beer on the terrace was much appreciated that evening.