Idwal climbing

Crag/Peak: Cwm Idwal/Cneifion/Clogwyn Du/Glyder Fawr
Routes: Heather Wall (VS 4b,4c:led p.2), Tennis Shoe p.3,4 (HS), Piton Route (VS 4c:sec), Pillar Chimney p.1 (led), Manx Wall (HS 4b,4b:led p.1)
Another classic Idwal enchainment up multiple routes in perfect weather: this was always going to be a real treat. The outing wasn't quite on the same scale as our last visit to the cwm in 2010, but involved a more concerted attempt to exploit the superb week of dry weather that we've had. Manx Wall, in particular, is a classic slow drying high mountain route that has been a target of mine for many years. We started, however, on Heather Wall - a mild VS on the dark East Wall of the Slabs. Even after all the dry weather, the start was still greasy, but the route was excellent - far better than I'd expected. Vic led a long (30m+) pitch up the centre of the obvious slab. This gives delightful 4b moves throughout, slabby and elegant, with some lovely sharp pockets. Superb compact rock throughout, not a hint of polish although perhaps slightly bold in places. I led the slightly harder top pitch which leaves the small belay on the apex of the slab to traverse left on good holds (I'd led this bit before, when we did East Wall Girdle). A little wall leads to a bulge and tiny thread. A couple of steep moves up gain good holds before a gentler groove curves round rightwards to a stance below Tennis Shoe. We then scrambled up the gentle middle pitches of Tennis Shoe on the left of the slabs before heading diagonally rightwards for Holly Tree Wall. We did this as one giant pitch, then had lunch, before Vic led the very fine Piton Route. I've done most of the other routes up here, but not this one. It gives an awkward early crux, in the mould of neighbouring Original Route, with tricky moves up a steep groove to gain more amenable climbing up a delightful rib. Very enjoyable relaxed mild VS climbing leads up the steep rib to the top: fun even with a big sac. We then traversed left, sustained scrambling, to gain obscure scrambling and easy climbing up the broken crags left of Senior's Ridge. This gives a fine upward route into Cwm Cneifion, which was drenched in sunshine. I've been up here maybe 10-15 times before, but had never seen it like this: more like Wadi Rum than a north-facing Welsh cwm. We drank from the stream then weaved up towards the intimidating Clogwyn Du. I've done a good few winter climbs up here, but had never done Manx Wall. It's a rare prize, as the crag is the ultimate slow-drying venue, feasible only in conditions like this. A steep slog gains Pillar Chimney, which then gives an enjoyable, highly atmospheric scramble for 100ft or so, up to a grassy slope below the chimney proper. It took some time to identify the line of Manx Wall, as there are several left-slanting lines of weakness. However, I tentatively set out along the series of small ledges and intermittent grooves than soon lead out over the crag. Bone dry throughout. I ended up merging the first three pitches of the original route, two tricky grooves being the highlight, until a very exposed traverse left along a footledge gains a thread belay in a great location. The top pitch is even more remarkable, up a slabby crack before a stomach traverse (very awkward to second with a big sac!) gains a small ledge. Good holds allow you to stand on the small exposed platform, reach up for enormous jugs, and use small footholds to gain a higher crack and easy climbing to the top. Exhilarating stuff, and certainly a route that packs a great deal of climbing into its 56 metres! Fabulous clarity of light as we topped out on the summit of Glyder Fawr, before jogging down (me taking the full sac) to gain the mild scrambling of Senior's Ridge followed by the more sustained scrambling in East Wall Gully. Perfect evening sunshine throughout. Summit of Glyder Fawr to my front door in a pleasingly efficient 2:15, after jogging the Idwal path and jumping straight into the car for the 65 mile journey.