La Trinite climbing

Crag: La Trinite, Monaco/Nice, France
Routes: Croustillant (f4:led), Formes Ancestrales (f4+:sec), Exces de Vitesse (f4:sec), Anticalcaire (f5:led), Cinq Froid C'est Dur (f5:sec), Besoins Naturels (f5+/6a:led), Echec aux Maths (f5:sec), Courte Tisana (f4:sec)
Expectations were low for this, our 'airport crag' day. With a flight at 5pm, our choices were inevitably limited to the smaller crags near Nice and, having scratched around on very polished routes in places like Colle Sur Loup in the past, we approached La Trinite expecting something similar. The location isn't promising, either, below the A8 although not too far from Eze and Monaco. In the event, we barely even realised that the motorway was above, and we even had views up towards the Maritime foothills. Best of all, though, even though this is a disused quarry the routes are remarkably good. Some very striking lines, with distinctive and varied characters and styles of climbing and a spread of grades. I kicked off with a lead of Croustillant, which reminded me of the F5 at Castle Inn, a juggy romp up a steep wall on lovely flowstone holds - little stalactites and sharp jugs. Seconded the route to its left, similar, before following Vic up the inferior Exces de Vitesse. I assume the 3 stars in the guidebook was a mistake, because this slabby route with sloping holds was more like something from Trevor Rocks. Things improved dramatically with Anticalcaire, my lead. This was a superb pitch, a mini-classic, which takes the obvious steep groove to an early crux through an overhang to gain a delightful narrow slab. This gives wonderful delicate climbing on small flowstone features and little holds, shuffling out to the arete at times. Vic then led the meaty crackline of Cinq Froid, one of the powerful fissures splitting the main face. This seemed a tad undergraded, and gave painful jamming and positive laybacking up a very rough, jagged crack. A tricky start led to massive jugs and a fun finish. I was feeling quite good, so upped the grade to lead the classic Besoins Naturels. This was a wonderfully satisfying way to finish the trip. It initially takes a thought-provoking but steady corner groove formed by the edge of the main face and the slab. Some good moves up to a ledge and rest. Then comes the final crack, totally different in character, snaking diagonally right across the face. This is sustained and excellent, generally positive holds, no obvious crux, just absorbing moves throughout. I was pleased to climb this 30m route quickly and cleanly, feeling reasonably strong at last. We finished with two shorter routes, as the sun came out for the first time since Monday just in time for our drive to the airport. Another great trip, despite the lowly grades of the routes - inevitable given the fact that I'd only had time for one day on rock since last summer.