Clogwyn Cyrau climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws y Coed
Routes: Bombers Wall route one (HS 4b,4b:led p.1), Jingling Wall (HS 4b:sec), Central Route variant (VS 4b:led), Swing High (VS 4b:sec), Academy (HS 4b:led), The Groove (VD:sol), Sion (S:sol), Siencyn (S:led)
After a disastrous start to the week, a cancelled flight and an opportunity missed, a great weather forecast meant that at least there was a chance to salvage something. Some climbing was in order as a distraction from the disappointment, and it looked like the whole week would be dry and sunny. This trip to Betws was therefore merely an ideal relaxed aperitif as we waited for bigger targets on the high crags to dry out for later in the week. I ticked a good number of the Cyrau classics during my last visit here in 2009, but hadn't done Bombers Wall before so led up its steepish initial groove to gain easier climbing to a big flake. Mick led up through the steep but juggy groove. Mick then led the best route here, Jingling Wall, which I've done before: excellent sun-drenched climbing up the wide groove to a slab, then the final steep groove. Superb views across the valley to Siabod. After lunch I set off up Central Route and took a right-hand variation away from the seemingly unprotected moves on the left-hand version. Swing High is a nice route further right on Conwy buttress. It goes 10m up the fine Conwy Corner (done before) before breaking off across the left wall, a fun hand traverse, to gain the juggy arete. A pleasant finish up the edge, much easier, gains the top. My lead, Academy, was dirty and greasy low down, before a big thread eases the passage to moves right across a rib on superb pocketed rock - echoes of Chateaudouble earlier this month - before moving left to a steep and surprisingly committing finish over a bulge. A good route which needs more traffic. Finished off by playing around on the easy routes on the smaller crag further right.