Five Sisters of Kintail

Peaks: Sgurr na Ciste Dubh (1027), Sgurr na Carnach (1002), Sgurr Fhuaran (1067), Sgurr nan Saighead (929), Beinn Bhuidhe (869)
Area: Glen Shiel, Lochalsh
The forecast had long been predicting a change in the weather for this afternoon. I wasn't too bothered, having already enjoyed three superb outings, but thought I'd make an early start in advance of the supposedly incoming front. Furthermore, I didn't want to compromise the family holiday, so left very early in low temperatures (-1C!). Began ploughing up the slopes to the Bealach na Lapain before 5am, although in my haste took a path too far left that had obviously been beaten out by munro baggers as it quickly contoured left to finally gain the ridge at the col between Spainteach and Sgurr na Ciste Dubh. This was annoying, as I wanted to do the full ridge, but as I emerged at the small col into the sunshine all was forgiven. Frost decorated the ridge, and the low sun provided wonderful views in all directions. A light morning mist boiled up from Glen Affric, lending a magical atmosphere to the traverse. Tendrils of mist lapped up the ridge to the north, while views south to the Saddle and Sgritheall remained crystal clear. I scampered up to the fine rocky summit of Ciste Dubh (1hr from road) to enjoy the show with a breakfast banana. Onward prospects were superb, as this is undoubtedly one of the finest ridges in the UK. Sgurr Fhuaran, in particular, is a cracking, dominant peak. Some short scrambly sections down to the pronounced col below Sgurr na Carnach, which gives a short but steep ascent and is another fine viewpoint and pronounced individual summit. The light mist was still lending a magical quality to the traverse as I embarked on the long mild scramble to the top of Fhuaran, still only just after 6am with the entire ridge to myself. I took every rock step as direct as possible to maximise enjoyment, but it was necessary to seek out difficulties. As the highest peak on the ridge, so obvious from the Mam Ratagan pass, Fhuaran is a marvellous viewpoint, some say the best in Scotland. For me, the view down Loch Duich towards the Cuillin was most notable, but light mist showed off the remote Affric peaks to perfection. Distant views to Ben Nevis and Liathach also impressed. I could have descended from here, but opted to prolongue the traverse by descending the fine, steep ridge and sticking to the crest to give some unexpected but good scrambling up Sgurr nan Saighead - which has a distinctive outline, throwing down a series of impressive ribs on the Affric side. Looked like some good winter gullies hereabouts. From Saighead I continued over the subsidiary peak of Beinn Bhuidhe. This took me even further down Glen Shiel but I was enjoying the ridge so much I didn't want it to end. I opted to take the ridiculously steep direct descent direct to Glen Shiel from here. It was indeed direct, but a completely trackless blend of tussocks and heather - an unpleasant echo of 'time-saving' navigation tactics on mountain marathons. Once in the glen I forded the river and hopped over the fence to the road. Cue a very long run back along the road to my car - at least 10k, maybe more. I was back at the cottage in Glenelg before 10.30am, in time for brunch.