Thursday, June 07, 2012

South Glen Shiel ridge

Peaks: Creag a'Mhaim (947m), Druim Shionnach (987m), Aonach air Chrith (1021m), Maol Chinn Dearg (981m), Sgurr Coire na Feinne (902m), Sgurr an Doire Leathain (1010m), Sgurr an Lochain (1004m)
Area: Glen Shiel, Lochalsh
After a rest yesterday, pottering around the brochs and coastline of Glenelg, another early start this morning saw me preparing to dash along the South Glen Shiel Ridge. This was the scene of my abortive traverse on Sunday, when I simply ran out of time. This morning, however, I was a bit more relaxed, having arranged to meet the family at the Cluanie Inn for lunch. Contrary to the forecast, the weather had remained superb and, even better, a cloud inversion seemed on the cards as I set off from Cluanie in amazing conditions of mist and sunshine. The old road to Tomtoun is very runnable, albeit 6k or more in length, and I set off at a brisk jog watching tendrils of mist drape A'Chralaig and the other big peaks north of Loch Cluanie. I entered the mist at the road's highpoint, and viz dropped instantly to a matter of a few feet. This made identifying the correct path tricky, and I wasted some time ensuring I was on the right route before continuing to run upwards in a bid to pop out of the mist. I did so around the 500m mark. So began an enchanting few hours as the valley cloud and light wisps of higher mist formed a beautiful foreground to the distant views down to Ben Nevis. The nearby peaks of Spidean Malaich and Gleouraich were even more photogenic, however. A thick sea of cloud remained in all the valleys as I crested the summit of Creag a'Mhaim in 75m from the road. Good running then led to an unexpected narrowing of the ridge up to Druim Shoinnach - a fine ascent with nice views of the lochans in the cwm south. Some mist on the summit, which melted away as I continued down the grassy ridge towards the day's highpoint at Aonach air Chrith. Stunning clarity of light now: the cloud inversion still present, deep blue sky above, this most famous of ridge traverses completely to myself. Indeed, I was perhaps the only person witnessing the inversion at this hour of the day? I set a reasonable pace, jogging the descents and flat sections, but had no real need to rush: just as well, given these very special conditions. The peaks along this ridge do not have a strong individual identity but the route is tremendously enjoyable. Some surprisingly narrow and rocky sections at times, and great views over to Loch Quioch and back across to the Five Sisters. I took in the smaller summit of Sgurr Coire na Feinne before ploughing on to the much higher Sgurr an Doire Leathain. Great views across to Sgurr an Lochain, easily the most distinctive peak on the ridge, towards which I now made my way. After a quick bite on the summit, I picked out the most comfortable way down to Glen Shiel (having done the remainder of the ridge last Sunday). I went down the very well defined, steep east ridge, which levels off lower down to a moraine-like grassy ridge just below the lake. A nice little corrie. I then contoured around boggy ground to pick up some deer tracks across the very steep spur coming down from Doire Leathain. All this was saving me a mile or two of road running! From here, it was a relatively simple matter to pick my way down to the road through the lower conifers, emerging east of the Lapain car park. Superb crystal clear views of the Five Sisters as all clouds melted away, yet again. The run back to Cluanie along the road was not too bad, and I made it back before midday.

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