Moel Famau fell race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (5m/1237ft)
Time/Position: 36.56 (10th from 202)
Last year's time was a minute down on 2011, and this was even slower! Not sure whether this is symbolic of a gradual decline, or an unusually good performance two years ago. Whatever, today was my tenth running of the event and so an anniversary of sorts: there is surely no other race I have done 10 times. A superb day for it too, sunny and clear, and a huge field (200+) turned out. It is far from a typical Clwydian race, with its big cheering crowds and village show atmosphere, but I always enjoy it. It was hotter than usual today, and I may have gone off a little too fast. Struggled quite early on the zigzags and was much slower to the top than usual. I made up for this a little with a reasonably sharp descent, and managed to claw back a few places and hold on for the final climb back to the village to just squeeze into the top 10.

Castle Inn climbing

Peak/Crag: Castle Inn Quarry
Routes: School Mam (f6a:led), Route 1 (f5:sec), Route 2 (f6a:sec), Lili Marlene (f5+:led), Alone With The Moon (f5:sec), Right-hand Variant (f6a:sec), Open Legs (f6b:led), Finale (f5:sec), More Than This (f6a:sec)
A huge contrast with our last visit in February when we climbed 20 routes but the temperature never rose above -2c!. I've been climbing here for 22 years and have done the routes on the main face around 15 times, but it remains the closest thing to a French-style bolted limestone crag in Wales. We only had a couple of hours spare, so I kicked off with the overgraded School Mam, the newer direct line, which goes up small positive holds to gain a steepish crack which leads to a very juggy final wall which is far easier than it looks from below. Mick then led Route 1, which remains (by some margin) my most frequently climbed route: always entertaining and now with even more bolts. Route 2, even with its polish, remains another soft touch in my view, but I always enjoy the technical moves up the little nobules and the tiny pinch-grip stalactite on the flowstone. We moved further to the left, where I led the awkward line of Lili Marlene before seconding Mick up a couple of other short routes. I then led the short but intricate 6b to its left. I did this cleanly and quickly, but again feel that it is probably a tad overgraded. Small holds, and tiny ripples for the feet, allow for moves diagonally right to gain a superb sharp edge and easier climbing. The 6a arete left of Finale was also despatched cleanly and efficiently: a valuable short session in advance of next months Alps trip.

Conwy Mountain climbing

Peak/Crag: Conwy Mountain Slab
Routes: Far Right Crack (VD:sol), Oaklands (S 4a:sol), Central Groove (D:sol), Left Slab Crack (MS:sol), Far Left Crack (VD:sol), Left corner (VD:sol), Central Arete (D:sol)
Keen to try out a new pair of running shoes after returning from our morning in Betws, so I jogged from the house up the normal route up Mynydd y Dref/Conwy Mountain in more warm sunshine. I stopped at the slab to do all seven of the natural 'lines' that mark this easy venue. You can climb almost anywhere at VDiff, although there is a tiny technical move at the top of Oaklands on the right of the slab. The best route is the obvious thin crack in the left-hand slab, which gives delightful gentle climbing at around Mild Severe. Just lovely in the hot sunshine, savouring the crisp moves and the warm rock. After this short climbing session, I continued running to the top of the hill, slowing a little after yesterday's race and this morning's short but intense outing. From here I ran back down the main path taken by the half marathon route (4 Aug) to a remarkable little wall of igneous rock that I've never noticed before. This (welded tuff) was a little like the chicken heads of Riglos, and I played around on it before running back to the house.

Clogwyn Cyrau climbing

Peak/Crag: Little Buttess, Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws
Routes: Ifan (VD:sol), The Groove (VD:sol), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Eliminate Start (VS:sol)
Being time-squeezed when climbing is not an uncommon experience for me, but this was an even shorter window than usual. Kate and kids had fizzy drinks in a Betws cafe, giving me less than 40 minutes to run up to Clogwyn Cyrau, do a few routes, and pelt back down through the forest. A beautiful day of warm sunshine, so I just nipped up a few familiar and very easy routes. That said, I don't think I've done Ifan before so did it first: a little groove just left of the enjoyable arete. The others were all good fun, nice to be in the shade but still rather humid. I took a little variant up the wall of Siencyn, then a long bouldery traverse of the wall to the right of the Eliminate Start, before running flat out back to Betws and taking the family on a long walk up to Miner's Bridge.

Ras y Mynydd

Race: Ras y Mynydd, Mynydd Llandegai (4.5m/800ft)
Time/Position: 29.31 (2nd from 43)
A cracking race - short and fast - which takes a logical loop round this little village in the wild Bethesda hinterland, whilst also taking in a great climb up Moel y Ci. A very fast start from the village hall, down small lanes, leads up to more typical fell race terrain to circumnavigate Moel y Ci. It joins uphill forest tracks to loop north round the hill to Parc y Bwlch, then takes a narrow path across to a sharp, steepish climb after Tynllidiart. I started out in fourth place but had worked my way up to second by the time we got to the woods: there were plenty of route options and the leader was just out of sight, so I had to guess the most logical route! After a very fast descent down to the western edge of the village, I could see the leader and got a bit closer to him on the long tarmac descent to the open moor of Gwaen Gynfi. There was no way I was going to catch him, however, so I just tried to consolidate second place and keep it going for the XC section across the moor. Great views of the mist peeling away from nearby Elidir Fawr. More road then leads back into the village for a final steep climb - luckily I felt surprisingly good throughout the race so was able to keep it going for a decent finish back at the hall, 22 seconds behind the winner. Excellent bara brith and tea was a welcome finishing touch. This race has been going for well over 20 years, apparently, and used to attract 120 runners.

Crafnant climbing

Peak/Crag: Two Tier Buttress, Crafnant
Routes: Little Cludge (HS 4b:led), Yew Tree Slabs p. 2 (VD:led), Pinnacle Wall Indirect (HS 4b:sec)
Rather like our bushwhacking expedition above Swallow Falls earlier this month, it is very disappointing to see these fine little climbs falling into disuse. I last climbed in Crafnant in 2002 with Tim (M a tiny baby in the cafe below) and remembered the climbs as short, clean and enjoyable. Now, however, the approach path is overgrown and even these good easy routes are not getting much traffic at all. Mick and I left in the early evening, and only had a couple of hours spare, so ploughed quickly up through the woods and eventually hacked out a route over to Two Tier Buttress. I led through thick grass and brambles to get to the clean slabs at the start of Little Cludge. This gives an excellent little pitch which really deserves more attention. Pleasant climbing up slabs to a break, then a steep finish, quite committing and thought-provoking for the grade. A juggy, vertical crack leads via a couple of small ledges to a little flake, then a tricky crux move as the crack steepens to gain superb, huge holds and an escape right to a nasty vegetated finish. From here I continued up the second pitch of Yew Tree Slabs to belay awkwardly within the branches of the ancient yew itself. Beautiful views out over this tranquil valley - like Gwynant, a useful riposte to those who think Eryri is 'less pretty' than the Lakes. Mick led through and made his way up a variation on Pinnacle Wall - the normal two-pitch version of which I've done before. Whether we followed the actual line of the Indirect variant is a moot point, but our version gave some nice climbing in any case. We went direct up the pinnacle on neat pockets, then up a licheny slab before moving right but climbing the arete direct quite delicately on small holds. An awful descent through nightmarish vegetation in the gully near Forestry Buttress (no hint of a path) meant we ran out of time as I had to get back to cook a family dinner. We both ran back down to the car at the far end of the lake.

Carneddau traverse (Capel Curig-Conwy)

Peaks: Carnedd Llywellyn, Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Fras, Drum, Carnedd y Ddelw, Foel Lwyd, Tal y Fan
Range: Carneddau, Eryri
Our short break in Conwy began in heavy rain yesterday, but this gave way to milky sunshine so we all went to Capel Curig for a short walk followed by tea and cake in the cafe. After this, the family drove back to Conwy while I ran back over the Carneddau, starting in Ogwen just outside Capel Curig and heading up the steep access road to Ffynnon Llugwy. Not the most scenic approach to Carnedd Llywellyn, but you gain height quickly and the steep zigzag slopes to Bwlch Eryl Farchog are excellent hard training! From here, I took a direct scrambling line across the ridge above Craig yr Ysfa, then jogged steadily up to the summit of Llywellyn, arriving in a reasonably quick 50 mins from Ogwen. Some mist over the summit as I continued along the ridge northward, most of the climbing already done and the long runnable ridge to look forward to. It's a bit rocky initially over to Foel Grach, of course, hard to get much speed up and rather chilly as the mist descended again. I stopped at the bothy to put on my jacket, then enjoyed the superb onward route - retracing numerous race routes, taking in Carnedd Gwenllian and then Foel Fras as the mist dissipated and the sun shone. Some of my favourite terrain of all at the northern end of the Carneddau, always a pleasure, although the ridge does have a very steep sting in the tail up Foel Lwyd from Bwlch y Ddaefaen. A little dehydrated as I ran along the tiring lumpy ridge to Tal y Fan then down to Hendre: there's no water on this route! Arrived within the walls 2:50 after setting out: fish and chips urgently needed.

Aran loop

Peaks: Aran Benllyn, Erw y Ddafad Ddu, Aran Fawddwy, Drosgl
Range: Aran, Eryri
A summer repeat of the Christmas Eve outing Peter and I did last year: with a few refinements to make it into an even better long run. Jez and I left Llanuwchllyn late afternoon, and kept a reasonable pace going on the long but relatively gentle climb up Benllyn (52 mins), following the race route until the scree summit. This really is a perfect training run, as the steep sections never last too long (apart from the final rise). Good views of black shower clouds sweeping over Cader Idris and the Rhinogs as we enjoyed the superb ridge running that leads over the middle peak to Aran Fawddwy's dramatic rock scenery. Although I've been up here many times, it's always been a bit of an 'unlucky' hill for me in terms of views, so it was nice to gaze across to the Berwyns and down to Llyn Lliwbran today. The ridge down to Drosgl was great fun, then steeply down to Llaethnant and the superb Creiglyn Dyfi - for me, one of the finest locations in Wales, remote and atmospheric (one day I'll do the climb that weaves up the lonely cliff above the lake). Another short climb to the little col before we both enjoyed the absolutely superb running descent down Cwm Llwydd and Cwm Croes. Access to this side of the Arans was once, outrageously, banned. We had no desire to run back on the road, so cut back to Llanuwchllyn through a brilliant, though overgrown little path heading north over stream valleys and meadows: dark clouds now enveloping the tops. Around 2.5 hours for the round this time, but much drier underfoot and clearer overhead.

Ponderosa fell race

Race: Ponderosa (4m/1000ft)
Time/Position: 28.39 (11th from 109)
One of the most exciting races on the calendar, this is always an unusual yet enjoyable outing. You don't get much time to relax, as the main climb is over in the first ten minutes. I was well off the pace as I crested the top of Cyrn y Brain in just under nine minutes from the Ponderosa - so I only had myself to blame for the fact that the inevitable major delays occurred on the very narrow tracks that weave through the heather on the initial descent. Eventually, when the descent kicks back west above Eglwyseg you get a few chances to overtake. I made one early attempt, clipped a mud bank and ended up lying in the heather, then two chaps face-planted in the first deep bog. After this I picked up a few more places as the paths broaden out, but couldn't quite catch a large group in front.

Coed Moel Famau loop

MTB Route: Coed Moel Famau loop (12.2km)
Another attempt to convert M from gamer to outdoor activist. Not particularly successful, as he didn't much enjoy the forest tracks which have a tendency to go up as well as down. But it stayed dry, and the grassy descent we usually run up on Friday is great fun on a mountain bike. From here, we skirted round Loggerheads and M waited at Tafarn y Gelyn while I climbed back to the car park.

North Wales half marathon

Race: North Wales half marathon (Beacons-Sychnant-Conwy Mountain)
Time/Position: 1.27.45 (11th from 341)
A wonderfully varied and scenic loop. I know every inch of this terrain and have run versions of this route several times in training, but I still thought that the idea of weaving it into a formal half marathon is a good one. Sadly, the inconsistency that has characterised the year was a factor again and I really struggled throughout the race: didn't enjoy it as much as I'd hoped. I was barely aware of the event at all, only hearing about it last Monday, but thought that it might be fun, and possible for fell runners to gain a few places on the long climb up Sychnant and over Conwy Mountain. Actually, the exact reverse of this happened: I went reasonably well on the 5/6 mile flat section along the beach and bike path from the Beacons to the Llanfairfechan headland and was in 7th place at this stage. But I began to struggle as soon as the road kicked up towards Penmaenmawr and that was game over really: the long climb through Dwygyfylchi over Sychnant and the 'fell race' style section up Conwy Mountain was just a case of hanging on, certainly not the anticipated romp up steepish terrain. The paths over the mountain were all very familiar to me, and give lovely views over mountain and sea. I perked up a bit on the descent and caught the three runners who'd passed me on Sychnant as we went through Cadnant Park in Conwy and down to Marine Drive. Then I blew again, needing a gel - but hadn't bothered to pack anything. Just hanging on for the flat section through the marina and back along the soft, energy-draining beach sand.

Foel Goch scrambles

Peak/Crag: Creigiau Gleision/Foel Goch
Route: Needle's Eye (North) Arete (M:led p.1,2,3,4)
This crag is an atmospheric and neglected place with wonderful views into the jaws of Ogwen and down Nant Ffrancon. I'd been up here for the neighbouring South Arete before, but after doing Traditional Route above Betws this morning, the rain clouds wreathing Siabod cleared and it seemed like a good idea to bolt on a mountain outing to the day. John is still very new to all this, and is leaving the country soon anyway, so a long scramble with good views was in order. We ploughed up the steep hillside via the shallow scree couloir in 20 minutes, running where possible. The broad gully then gives access to the tremendous rock architecture which characterises this crag: very much a place for the mountaineer, with this route in particular having a distinctly Alpine flavour. We traversed right to avoid a wet slab, then crept rightwards along an exposed ledge to the North Arete itself. We roped up here, and I led round the bulging wall, an easy traverse, to gain a vegetated and insecure grassy runnel which led steeply up to regain the arete at an exposed notch. Great views over the gully to Tryfan. After bringing John up, I led a short second pitch up a slab to the sharp arete itself, gaining the 'Needle's eye' - a perfect thread belay that it seemed rude not to use. I took the next section direct, up a steep crack (more like easy climbing than scrambling) and dodgy blocks to a flake then the top of a gendarme. After another tricky but very short pitch, the route breaks up into a series of pinnacles. We took the rope off and I was pleasantly surprised by the continuation: taking all the pinnacles direct on good rock. Very windy, but superb clarity of light as the rain clouds dissipated completely: deep blue skies and fluffy clouds. We ran to the summit of Foel Goch, then plunged down to Bwlch y Brecan to gain superb, exhilarating running down the spur separating Cwm Bual from Cwm Perfedd. This ends in a very steep nose which gives uncomfortable but very fast downhill running to the old road.

Swallow Falls Buttress climbing

Crag: Craig Rhaeadr Ewynnol, Betws y Coed
Route: Traditional Route (S:led p.1,2,3,4)
This climb is being lost to the vegetation: a real shame, as it is a nice route in the mould of Aberglaslyn's better known Canyon Rib, and would benefit from more traffic. It will always be an esoteric outing because of its location, but the short pitches and modest standard made it an ideal route to take novice John up - particularly because some heavy showers had just swept across the region and were still anchored over the mountains. We parked at Ty Hyll and enjoyed a delightful amble along the River Lledr with just the odd spot of light drizzle. After passing Swallow Falls, we bushwhacked up to the start of the route - fairly easy to find, but unpleasant amounts of mud and brambles. It was clearly pretty dirty but seemed dryish, and we'd come all this way, so I led off up the coffin-shaped block to 'have a look'. A few moves gained the top of the block, then a step to a platform led to another crack. This had good handholds but mossy, insecure and overgrown footholds on the right wall. The second pitch took a short, clean crack to a tricky move to gain some big finishing holds. The views over the valley to Swallow Falls just get better, with a lovely atmosphere created by the rush of the water. The third pitch was easy up two linked cracks, a weakness in the wall, but all the holds and nut placements needed excavation - it was feeling like a first ascent by now. All very enjoyable and gentle, though, and John was able to follow after a bit of thought. I sidled down the recess to gain the original finish, slightly runout to a flake, then good climbing up a broad groove in a nice position to the woods on top: great views across to the tourists at the Falls, who were now watching us with interest. The weather was starting to clear as we descended (too early initially - an Indiana Jones-style nightmare as a wall collapsed beneath my feet and the brambles threatened to bury us). The sun came out as we sauntered back along the Lledr, so I thought we should make the day into a two-parter. After lunch in Capel, we drove down the old Nant Ffrancon road intent on a mountaineering afternoon - but that seems to warrant a separate entry!

Deeside Off-Road Race

Race: Deeside Off-Road Grand Prix Race 3 (4.8m)
Time/Position: 27.01
Quite a bit quicker than the first two races in the series, but no different in terms of position, so there may have been some small tweaks to the course. I have been feeling a little quicker in the last two weeks, though, so concentrated on trying to stay with in-form Jez. Yet again, the race was dominated by Veterans, but I needed a reasonable finishing position as I will be away for the fourth and final race next month. Jez pulled away a bit on the fields, while I managed to pull back on the tarmac. It all came down to a fun sprint finish, which I inevitably lost!