Swallow Falls Buttress climbing

Crag: Craig Rhaeadr Ewynnol, Betws y Coed
Route: Traditional Route (S:led p.1,2,3,4)
This climb is being lost to the vegetation: a real shame, as it is a nice route in the mould of Aberglaslyn's better known Canyon Rib, and would benefit from more traffic. It will always be an esoteric outing because of its location, but the short pitches and modest standard made it an ideal route to take novice John up - particularly because some heavy showers had just swept across the region and were still anchored over the mountains. We parked at Ty Hyll and enjoyed a delightful amble along the River Lledr with just the odd spot of light drizzle. After passing Swallow Falls, we bushwhacked up to the start of the route - fairly easy to find, but unpleasant amounts of mud and brambles. It was clearly pretty dirty but seemed dryish, and we'd come all this way, so I led off up the coffin-shaped block to 'have a look'. A few moves gained the top of the block, then a step to a platform led to another crack. This had good handholds but mossy, insecure and overgrown footholds on the right wall. The second pitch took a short, clean crack to a tricky move to gain some big finishing holds. The views over the valley to Swallow Falls just get better, with a lovely atmosphere created by the rush of the water. The third pitch was easy up two linked cracks, a weakness in the wall, but all the holds and nut placements needed excavation - it was feeling like a first ascent by now. All very enjoyable and gentle, though, and John was able to follow after a bit of thought. I sidled down the recess to gain the original finish, slightly runout to a flake, then good climbing up a broad groove in a nice position to the woods on top: great views across to the tourists at the Falls, who were now watching us with interest. The weather was starting to clear as we descended (too early initially - an Indiana Jones-style nightmare as a wall collapsed beneath my feet and the brambles threatened to bury us). The sun came out as we sauntered back along the Lledr, so I thought we should make the day into a two-parter. After lunch in Capel, we drove down the old Nant Ffrancon road intent on a mountaineering afternoon - but that seems to warrant a separate entry!