Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day two
Peaks: Grasmoor, Sand Hill, Outerside (Derwent Fells, Lake District)
Time/Position: 180pts in 4:29 (17th from 213 [2nd V40])
I ate my porridge by the light of the moon above the High Stile ridge, keen to make an early start. As with yesterday, I didn't really consider many route choices as the day provided an opportunity to head up some peaks I've never done before. One of these was Grasmoor, and I had already resigned myself to starting the day with the 2500ft slog to the top - not because I felt it was the best route choice, but because I've never done it before and the weather was again so good that it seemed wrong not to enjoy the tops (but when I found out what the prize for first V40 was I wished I'd been a little less romantic and a little more hard-headed about the route planning!). The first control was at a hidden sheepfold in Cinderdale Beck: and rather than slog through the heather like a number of other runners were doing, I took the path further south and contoured in, before contouring back out through the gruelling heather to the Lad Hows ridge up Grasmoor. This is relentless, and a strong headwind (that had woken me several times last night) didn't help one bit: a brutal way to start the day, and all for 25 points at the summit cairn. Wonderful views compensated, with the same clarity of light that we all enjoyed yesterday. I felt a little tired running down to Coledale Hause - completely new territory for me - the contoured too high above Eel Crag, meaning I had to drop down awkward terrain to dib the next checkpoint in a sheepfold. A tiring climb, hot already, back to the Hause and up Sand Hill (a subsidiary summit to Hopegill Head. Then I left the crowds behind for the excellent ridge NE over a forepeak towards Grisedale Pike. No need to go up this, as the control was hidden deep in remote Grisedale Gill to the North East. So a long and trackless traverse past the tourist path led down into this unfrequented valley for another remote and demanding checkpoint. Draining, very awkward terrain then made for snail-like progress back up to the Grisedale Pike ridge and all the way down to the 200m contour at the bottom of characterless Coledale Beck. Then came the crux of the entire weekend - a desperate and somewhat pointless slog direct up the northerly slopes of Outerside to get the control on the summit. Not a sensible route choice and a rather demoralising experience. Still, it meant I could take a long contouring descent on a narrow and intermittent sheep trod to get more points below Causey Pike before a short heathery climb to the little spur of Rowling End. I had at least half an hour to play with, and could have got a 20 pointer in Rigg Beck, but was quite tired so played it far too safe and descended to Stonycroft Gill and the finish above Stair. Inevitably, I lost a few places due to poor route planning and over-caution today - but it hardly mattered in the context of a great weekend, the 7th consecutive year this event has experienced benign, dry weather.
Sunday, September 29, 2013
Saturday, September 28, 2013
Rab Mountain Marathon
Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day one
Peaks: Catbells, Maiden Moor, Grey Knotts, Fleetwith Pike, Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile
Time/Position: 310pts in 5:31 (13th from 213 [2nd V40])
After missing the Rab last year, I was keen to give it a good bash again, particularly after my disastrous showing on home soil in the Carneddau in 2011. This turned out to be a magical weekend of stunning weather and fantastic running in the most beautiful corner of the Lakes, with superbly challenging route planning and the usual low-key atmosphere: my 5th appearance at this great event. The HQ was at Newlands Adventure Centre, which I'd last visited 25 years ago to the day on a Manchester University geography field trip, Fresher's Week 1988! After a good night's sleep in the back of the car, and a large breakfast, I set off from Skelgill: it was a beautiful clear morning, so I didn't really think much about route choice - I just wanted to get on the ridge as soon as possible just to enjoy it. As such, a quick slog up and over the Catbells ridge revealed the famous view of Derwent Water. Possibly the best view in England, so I continued south along the ridge to savour it a little more, over Catbells to Hause Gate - fantastic easy running - before contouring round (slightly unnecessary) to another control below Maiden Moor. From the summit, I picked a good and fast line down Narrow Moor to a hidden control well down the Borrowdale side of High Spy, at Nitting Haws. I remember struggling to this point into a ferocious headwind during the infamous OMM of 2008. From here, a long traverse on tricky terrain led to Launchy Tarn, before an easy leg picked up more points at the little quarry familiar from the Borrowdale fell race final climb up Dale Head. Fast running down to Honister Pass, then up an excellent hidden trod to gain big points at a high knoll above Seatoller: very distant from start and finish! From here I took another efficient line SW, spying out a narrow ledge that traversed diagonally above Raven Crag (Gillercombe Buttress) to gain the Grey Knotts/Brandreth ridge. Nobody else took this line, which had some scrambling, but it landed me bang on the control at a little pond. It was all going so well, something had to go wrong: and it did so immediately. I didn't properly plan the next section: so dropped down to a control at Dubs Bottom before embarking on the draining climb direct up to the summit of Fleetwith Pike. I had planned to go directly across to High Crag, but the height loss and sheer steepness rendered this completely ludicrous, so I effectively had to retrace my steps before picking up the path over Haystacks. Clearly, I did this section in completely the wrong order. I was furious with myself, and reckon it cost me between 20 and 40 points. Still, the traverse of Haystacks was a delight, one of Lakeland's finest corners. It was very hot now, and I stripped to the waist before dibbing the control at exquisite Blackbeck Tarn. Tiring lumpy terrain leads over the crowded summit of Haystacks to Scarth Gap, before the very steep climb up High Crag. I've been this way at least twice before, once in a ferocious blizzard, and knew it would be the crux - especially in this heat. But the views of Pillar are superb, and a 40 point checkpoint awaited me on the summit. I got to High Stile efficiently, the highpoint of the ridge, then headed for home directly down a very steep gully on Chapel Crags to Bleaberry Tarn. I was tired now after five hours of running, so was pleased to take the zigzag path east of Sour Milk Gill to Buttermere. Then it was 3-4k back along the roads and a bridleway to the overnight camp at Cinderdale Common. I found myself in 13th place overnight, second Veteran: just 20 points behind the leader, about what I lost due to my stupid route planning error. The camp was in a lovely spot above Crummock Water: hot and sunny, with superb views back up to High Stile.
Peaks: Catbells, Maiden Moor, Grey Knotts, Fleetwith Pike, Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile
Time/Position: 310pts in 5:31 (13th from 213 [2nd V40])
After missing the Rab last year, I was keen to give it a good bash again, particularly after my disastrous showing on home soil in the Carneddau in 2011. This turned out to be a magical weekend of stunning weather and fantastic running in the most beautiful corner of the Lakes, with superbly challenging route planning and the usual low-key atmosphere: my 5th appearance at this great event. The HQ was at Newlands Adventure Centre, which I'd last visited 25 years ago to the day on a Manchester University geography field trip, Fresher's Week 1988! After a good night's sleep in the back of the car, and a large breakfast, I set off from Skelgill: it was a beautiful clear morning, so I didn't really think much about route choice - I just wanted to get on the ridge as soon as possible just to enjoy it. As such, a quick slog up and over the Catbells ridge revealed the famous view of Derwent Water. Possibly the best view in England, so I continued south along the ridge to savour it a little more, over Catbells to Hause Gate - fantastic easy running - before contouring round (slightly unnecessary) to another control below Maiden Moor. From the summit, I picked a good and fast line down Narrow Moor to a hidden control well down the Borrowdale side of High Spy, at Nitting Haws. I remember struggling to this point into a ferocious headwind during the infamous OMM of 2008. From here, a long traverse on tricky terrain led to Launchy Tarn, before an easy leg picked up more points at the little quarry familiar from the Borrowdale fell race final climb up Dale Head. Fast running down to Honister Pass, then up an excellent hidden trod to gain big points at a high knoll above Seatoller: very distant from start and finish! From here I took another efficient line SW, spying out a narrow ledge that traversed diagonally above Raven Crag (Gillercombe Buttress) to gain the Grey Knotts/Brandreth ridge. Nobody else took this line, which had some scrambling, but it landed me bang on the control at a little pond. It was all going so well, something had to go wrong: and it did so immediately. I didn't properly plan the next section: so dropped down to a control at Dubs Bottom before embarking on the draining climb direct up to the summit of Fleetwith Pike. I had planned to go directly across to High Crag, but the height loss and sheer steepness rendered this completely ludicrous, so I effectively had to retrace my steps before picking up the path over Haystacks. Clearly, I did this section in completely the wrong order. I was furious with myself, and reckon it cost me between 20 and 40 points. Still, the traverse of Haystacks was a delight, one of Lakeland's finest corners. It was very hot now, and I stripped to the waist before dibbing the control at exquisite Blackbeck Tarn. Tiring lumpy terrain leads over the crowded summit of Haystacks to Scarth Gap, before the very steep climb up High Crag. I've been this way at least twice before, once in a ferocious blizzard, and knew it would be the crux - especially in this heat. But the views of Pillar are superb, and a 40 point checkpoint awaited me on the summit. I got to High Stile efficiently, the highpoint of the ridge, then headed for home directly down a very steep gully on Chapel Crags to Bleaberry Tarn. I was tired now after five hours of running, so was pleased to take the zigzag path east of Sour Milk Gill to Buttermere. Then it was 3-4k back along the roads and a bridleway to the overnight camp at Cinderdale Common. I found myself in 13th place overnight, second Veteran: just 20 points behind the leader, about what I lost due to my stupid route planning error. The camp was in a lovely spot above Crummock Water: hot and sunny, with superb views back up to High Stile.
Sunday, September 22, 2013
Swansea Bay 10k
Race: Swansea Bay 10k (Welsh Championships)
Time/Position: 36.05 (80th from 3000 [8th V40])
Not even a season's best time, which was the minimum target today: my third appearance for North Wales in the national 10k championships. Instead, this quickly turned into my worst performance in the vest and I couldn't even break 36 minutes on a flat course. We'd stayed overnight at Steve's in Llanwrthwl, and not got much sleep, which didn't help. I was also inclined to blame last week's Pedol Peris epic, but the real reason is probably just lack of sufficient training and intervals in particular - having not trained with Buckley since March. The Swansea Bay 10k is a massive and excellent event, though, possibly even bigger than the Cardiff 10k, with over 3000 runners going from St Helens along the road to Mumbles then back along the seafront to Swansea. Conditions were almost ideal, still and cloudy, although it did become hot and humid on the return leg (for me anyway!). A fast start saw the first 3k covered in 10.30, and a gentle hill led to the edge of Mumbles and the 5k mark in 17.35 or so. If I'd maintained this pace, I'd have managed a respectable time, but although I initially started to gain on some team-mates I struggled again after the 8k mark and was really suffering at the finish. Not a great performance, but it's always an honour to run for the region and the event itself was really good with a big race atmosphere and excellent support from across Wales.
Time/Position: 36.05 (80th from 3000 [8th V40])
Not even a season's best time, which was the minimum target today: my third appearance for North Wales in the national 10k championships. Instead, this quickly turned into my worst performance in the vest and I couldn't even break 36 minutes on a flat course. We'd stayed overnight at Steve's in Llanwrthwl, and not got much sleep, which didn't help. I was also inclined to blame last week's Pedol Peris epic, but the real reason is probably just lack of sufficient training and intervals in particular - having not trained with Buckley since March. The Swansea Bay 10k is a massive and excellent event, though, possibly even bigger than the Cardiff 10k, with over 3000 runners going from St Helens along the road to Mumbles then back along the seafront to Swansea. Conditions were almost ideal, still and cloudy, although it did become hot and humid on the return leg (for me anyway!). A fast start saw the first 3k covered in 10.30, and a gentle hill led to the edge of Mumbles and the 5k mark in 17.35 or so. If I'd maintained this pace, I'd have managed a respectable time, but although I initially started to gain on some team-mates I struggled again after the 8k mark and was really suffering at the finish. Not a great performance, but it's always an honour to run for the region and the event itself was really good with a big race atmosphere and excellent support from across Wales.
Friday, September 20, 2013
Craig Rhiw Goch climbing
Crag: Craig Rhiw Goch, Lledr Valley
Routes: Reign (S:led), Congl (VS 4c:sec), Congl Direct Finish (HVS 5b:sec), The Riparian (E2 5c:sec)
A small but exquisitely formed crag on the banks of the Lledr. I've wanted to do these routes for years, but have never got round to it, partly because the crag is not the easiest venue to find. Once you work it out, though, it's just a few minutes from the road, which makes its unpopularity even more baffling than other nearby venues like Crafnant and Swallow Falls. I imagine it's something to do with its absence from modern selective guidebooks (although it is in my old tried and tested Williams guide). We only had a couple of hours spare late on, but that was enough time to do the routes, although it would have been nice to linger as it is a delightful spot in oak woodland right next to a beautiful stretch of the Lledr, a constant rushing presence. Reign is a very pleasant Severe, but the first few feet are a bit dirty now - and the rock was greasy after recent rain. But a steep 30ft wall is then taken on excellent holds to a little spike, then a ledge on the left before a juggy rib leads up to a final slab. A neat little route which, to repeat a theme from this summer's esoteric climbing trips, needs more traffic. I had to clear the mud from cracks to place gear higher up. Congl takes the obvious central groove, with a tricky move up the initial wall to gain a narrow slab which merges with the main groove and gives good easy climbing to a steepening. After one thought-provoking move which needs careful footwork, a ledge is reached. Vic traversed left on the normal finish, but I was able to take the excellent direct finish up the steep continuation groove. This is not as hard as the given grade (VS+ 5a I'd say) but gives a fine steep finish on small positive holds. The Riparian is even better - a superb 100ft pitch with varied technical climbing. It is never very strenuous, but absorbing throughout and a feasible lead. The initial steep slab is delightful, never overly obvious, but little flakey holds and neat thoughtful footwork allows the thin groove above to be gained. The crack here is slim but positive and leads to a right-leaning crack which I assumed was the crux. Instead, it goes easily to a resting foot ledge before a slim groove leads to two pockets. Then comes the crux, near the top: a fierce pull on the pockets with little ripples for the feet gains a good jug and easy finishing groove. Immaculate climbing. Then it was off to Cadole for the Friday night Clwydian run, followed by a rest before Sunday's Welsh 10k championships in Swansea.
Routes: Reign (S:led), Congl (VS 4c:sec), Congl Direct Finish (HVS 5b:sec), The Riparian (E2 5c:sec)
A small but exquisitely formed crag on the banks of the Lledr. I've wanted to do these routes for years, but have never got round to it, partly because the crag is not the easiest venue to find. Once you work it out, though, it's just a few minutes from the road, which makes its unpopularity even more baffling than other nearby venues like Crafnant and Swallow Falls. I imagine it's something to do with its absence from modern selective guidebooks (although it is in my old tried and tested Williams guide). We only had a couple of hours spare late on, but that was enough time to do the routes, although it would have been nice to linger as it is a delightful spot in oak woodland right next to a beautiful stretch of the Lledr, a constant rushing presence. Reign is a very pleasant Severe, but the first few feet are a bit dirty now - and the rock was greasy after recent rain. But a steep 30ft wall is then taken on excellent holds to a little spike, then a ledge on the left before a juggy rib leads up to a final slab. A neat little route which, to repeat a theme from this summer's esoteric climbing trips, needs more traffic. I had to clear the mud from cracks to place gear higher up. Congl takes the obvious central groove, with a tricky move up the initial wall to gain a narrow slab which merges with the main groove and gives good easy climbing to a steepening. After one thought-provoking move which needs careful footwork, a ledge is reached. Vic traversed left on the normal finish, but I was able to take the excellent direct finish up the steep continuation groove. This is not as hard as the given grade (VS+ 5a I'd say) but gives a fine steep finish on small positive holds. The Riparian is even better - a superb 100ft pitch with varied technical climbing. It is never very strenuous, but absorbing throughout and a feasible lead. The initial steep slab is delightful, never overly obvious, but little flakey holds and neat thoughtful footwork allows the thin groove above to be gained. The crack here is slim but positive and leads to a right-leaning crack which I assumed was the crux. Instead, it goes easily to a resting foot ledge before a slim groove leads to two pockets. Then comes the crux, near the top: a fierce pull on the pockets with little ripples for the feet gains a good jug and easy finishing groove. Immaculate climbing. Then it was off to Cadole for the Friday night Clwydian run, followed by a rest before Sunday's Welsh 10k championships in Swansea.
Sunday, September 15, 2013
Pedol Peris
Race: Peris Horseshoe fell race (18m/8500ft/AL)
Peaks: Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Lliwedd, Snowdon, Moel Cynghorion
Peaks: Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Lliwedd, Snowdon, Moel Cynghorion
Time/Position: 4.13.16 (55th from 200)
The hardest Welsh mountain race of all - some explanation for the fact that it's been five years since my last attempt at this event. Sadly, I didn't have anywhere near the right amount of hill mileage in my legs for this, but gave it a bash as it was part of the Welsh and British championships this year. As such, the quality and size of the field was remarkable and the pace very high as we set off - rain clearing - from Llanberis. This is one of the unique things about the sport - unlike even the highest profile 10k, here you are competing directly with the very best in a relatively small field. As a result, you get instantly blown away by superb athletes and it puts you firmly back in your rightful place (55th in my case!) The sheer scale of this event meant I deliberately took it as easy as was feasible on the inclines through the quarries, always atmospheric, to Elidir Fach. Skirted this, then took the longer line to gain the misty summit of Elidir in 48 minutes from Llanberis. Superb running around the head of the cwm as all the mist cleared away from the Glyderau. This is the route's highlight, best enjoyed when fresh! I slowed for the sharp haul up Y Garn, then tried to keep a steady but sustainable pace for the rough descent down to Llyn y Cwn and the steep climb up Glyder Fawr. Although it was taking a while to find my rhythm on the climbs, once I did I started to feel reasonably strong and I got to Pen y Pass via the long 'red spot' descent from Glyder Fawr (missing the 'short cut' from the glacis and wasting more time) in 1.56. The real race then begins: in 2008 I suffered badly from dehydration over Lliwedd and had no wish to repeat the experience. This time I was more cautious, jogging the Miner's Track to Llyn Llydaw with a full bottle of water, then scrambling over Lliwedd, trying to keep pace with Adrian from Eryri across Bwlch y Saethau and directly up the rocky East ridge into the mist on Yr Wyddfa. The summit of Snowdon was as crowded and surreal as ever, and I dodged the crowds from the cairn and leapt onto the railway to ensure I didn't miss the turn for the Snowdon Ranger path. Indeed, if the race just descended to Llanberis from Snowdon it would be relatively easy - but it doesn't, so the crux is this brutal final leg. I fell quite badly on the screes of the Ranger path - the momentum meant an inevitable somersault with head-on-scree contact. Never pleasant, but I managed to minimise the blow and continued, a little shaken. A painfully slow descent and tough climb back over Moel Cynghorion - now out of the mist - in 3.47. Had 13 mins left to break 4 hours, which wasn't going to happen. Instead I got even slower down to Maesgwm and through the deep stream, developing an appalling stitch for the final 'fast' run through Coed Victoria to Llanberis. This lost me even more time as I was reduced to a crippled jog, removing bumbag and bent double in an attempt to relieve the pain. Then came a desperate effort to recover in time to represent North Wales at the starkly contrasting Welsh 10k champs next week.
Monday, September 09, 2013
Gorbio climbing
Crag: La Balme, Gorbio, Provence
Routes: De Bouche a Oreille (f5:led), Signe Ascendant (f5+:led), Le Bonheur Est Dans le Pre (f5+:sec), Les Mots Pour le Dire (f5+:sec), La Lyceene (f6a:sec), Tango Passion (f5:led), Peut-etre (f6a+:led)
Just another Provencal venue with beautiful views in every direction, a tranquil ambience, and an abundance of three-star classic climbs up a wonderland of perfect sculpted limestone features. We liked it! A tortuous road leads from La Turbie round the edge of Monaco's grotesque excess and up into another world. Gorbio is a perfect 'village perche', protected from tourists by its awkward location. We parked above the village and walked into the crag through small allotments and copses. The crag is one of many at the head of this typical Provencal limestone valley - and is wonderfully tranquil. We had a few hours before the sun hit the face, so got to work immediately. The crag is characterised by a series of slabby ramplines that head diagonally leftwards and break the other theme of unrelenting steepness. The limestone features are just beautiful and lend themselves to stunning climbing up these lines of weakness. De Bouche a Oreille was a perfect example: it took a sort of 'tube' of waterworn limestone with a steep wall plunging away to the left and another curving above the ramp to the right. It gave a remarkably aesthetic climb, on beautiful cream and grey shaded limestone, using little pockets and tiny pinched holds to make progress up the slab. A wonderful start, but eclipsed by the massive Signe Ascendant to its right, which gave a monster 35m+ E1 pitch up another ramp line. This started more steeply, up a very awkward vertical groove which gives access to the main slab. This gave quite extraordinary climbing: tiny edges led to a flake crack which soon closed, necessitating a series of heart-stopping moves left to the very edge of the slab poised above a gigantic overhanging wall. For the grade, a remarkable position, very exposed considering this was just a single pitch route! Very delicate climbing up the edge led to another flake which allows you to move back right to the lower-off. Le Bonheur, the similarly graded route up the centre of the same slab, goes more easily up to the central flake crack. This is quite positive until it closes up, then a very hard move up the blank slab gains the continuation of the line: a little more disjointed that Signe Ascendant but another three-star classic. Vic then led Les Mot Pour le Dire further right. This is a shorter route, 20m+, which takes a sharp rib initially before a sequence of superb technical moves up an inclined wall, quite reasonable but sustained and thought-provoking up tiny stalactites and pockets. The quality of the hard, grey limestone was remarkable: immaculate climbing, as was the superb groove of La Lyceene to the right. Tufa pillars and flowstone features: despite the 6a grade, this seemed one of the easier routes on the crag. By now the sun was well and truly on the face, and it was getting pretty uncomfortable. We made our way through the trees to the far end of the crag, and both led Tango Passion, an easier and shorter route up three distinct walls, then Peut-etre as a suitable climax to the trip. After an initial wall, this takes a steep and very technical wall on tiny flake holds and small pockets. Probably the hardest sequence of the trip, 6a+, around UK E2 we thought, coinciding with the hottest weather: it was like inching up a vertical frying pan. I had to steady myself whilst clipping the bolts sadly, partly as a result of the extreme humidity, but we both made the lead before retreating to the medieval alleyways of the village and, later, a well earned dip in the Med before our flight home.
Routes: De Bouche a Oreille (f5:led), Signe Ascendant (f5+:led), Le Bonheur Est Dans le Pre (f5+:sec), Les Mots Pour le Dire (f5+:sec), La Lyceene (f6a:sec), Tango Passion (f5:led), Peut-etre (f6a+:led)
Just another Provencal venue with beautiful views in every direction, a tranquil ambience, and an abundance of three-star classic climbs up a wonderland of perfect sculpted limestone features. We liked it! A tortuous road leads from La Turbie round the edge of Monaco's grotesque excess and up into another world. Gorbio is a perfect 'village perche', protected from tourists by its awkward location. We parked above the village and walked into the crag through small allotments and copses. The crag is one of many at the head of this typical Provencal limestone valley - and is wonderfully tranquil. We had a few hours before the sun hit the face, so got to work immediately. The crag is characterised by a series of slabby ramplines that head diagonally leftwards and break the other theme of unrelenting steepness. The limestone features are just beautiful and lend themselves to stunning climbing up these lines of weakness. De Bouche a Oreille was a perfect example: it took a sort of 'tube' of waterworn limestone with a steep wall plunging away to the left and another curving above the ramp to the right. It gave a remarkably aesthetic climb, on beautiful cream and grey shaded limestone, using little pockets and tiny pinched holds to make progress up the slab. A wonderful start, but eclipsed by the massive Signe Ascendant to its right, which gave a monster 35m+ E1 pitch up another ramp line. This started more steeply, up a very awkward vertical groove which gives access to the main slab. This gave quite extraordinary climbing: tiny edges led to a flake crack which soon closed, necessitating a series of heart-stopping moves left to the very edge of the slab poised above a gigantic overhanging wall. For the grade, a remarkable position, very exposed considering this was just a single pitch route! Very delicate climbing up the edge led to another flake which allows you to move back right to the lower-off. Le Bonheur, the similarly graded route up the centre of the same slab, goes more easily up to the central flake crack. This is quite positive until it closes up, then a very hard move up the blank slab gains the continuation of the line: a little more disjointed that Signe Ascendant but another three-star classic. Vic then led Les Mot Pour le Dire further right. This is a shorter route, 20m+, which takes a sharp rib initially before a sequence of superb technical moves up an inclined wall, quite reasonable but sustained and thought-provoking up tiny stalactites and pockets. The quality of the hard, grey limestone was remarkable: immaculate climbing, as was the superb groove of La Lyceene to the right. Tufa pillars and flowstone features: despite the 6a grade, this seemed one of the easier routes on the crag. By now the sun was well and truly on the face, and it was getting pretty uncomfortable. We made our way through the trees to the far end of the crag, and both led Tango Passion, an easier and shorter route up three distinct walls, then Peut-etre as a suitable climax to the trip. After an initial wall, this takes a steep and very technical wall on tiny flake holds and small pockets. Probably the hardest sequence of the trip, 6a+, around UK E2 we thought, coinciding with the hottest weather: it was like inching up a vertical frying pan. I had to steady myself whilst clipping the bolts sadly, partly as a result of the extreme humidity, but we both made the lead before retreating to the medieval alleyways of the village and, later, a well earned dip in the Med before our flight home.
Sunday, September 08, 2013
La Turbie climbing
Crag: La Dalle a l'Oiseau, La Turbie, Monaco
Routes: La San Nom (f4+:led), Le Rappel (f4+:sec), La Tribu de Chantal (f5:sec), Le Diedre des Limaces (f4+:sec), Plien la Vue Directe (f5:sec), La Radine (f6a:led), Combien ca Coute? (f5:sec), UNR (f4:sec), L'Envolee de Jeanine (f5:sec), Diedre de la Republique (f5+:sec), La Dextre (f5:led)
After a night in the centre of Cuneo, I was desperate to salvage something from the trip after missing out on the main objective yesterday. However, prospects looked bleak as it started to rain in the main piazza of Cuneo as we left the hotel. This became absolutely torrential as we crossed into France after the Tende tunnel, so we were forced to abandon our designs on the granite crags above St Dalmas and Sospel. Instead, we drove all the way to La Turbie above Monaco in a remarkable deluge which luckily stopped as we arrived at the car park poised above Monaco's stadium. After walking down the zigzags that lead to La Dalle a l'Oiseau, just one of the many crags that litter the hillside above Monaco, the sun came out and the rock was miraculously bone dry. Still desperate to salvage the trip, I went straight for the classic line of the crag: the soaring groove line of La San Nom, which despite its French grade gives a superb 35m long British VS pitch. Pocketed slabs give way to the main groove, which has two steeper sections taken on big holds, then some easy bridging, before a steep crux move just before the top to gain a final juggy wall. A tremendous pitch, neatly sustained at a fairly gentle standard - but interesting throughout. Le Rappel is another long pitch up superbly positive pockets and flakes, while La Tribu de Chantal is a little harder - we did the top half, which finishes up an awkward prow via some tricky moves. Vic then led the obvious corner/diedre to the left, which gives some polished bridging and is rather overshadowed by the arete to its left taken by the superb Plien la Vue Directe. This is a fantastic, photogenic line - quite elegant but rather polished especially higher up. Easy slabs lead to a small platform, then delicate moves up the crest of the vertical arete with stunning views out over Cap Ferrat to distant Esterel. The sun was now warming things up quite dramatically, and I was feeling reasonably strong (by my pathetic standards) so upped the grade with a lead of La Radine on the right of the crag. This gave sustained and excellent 6a climbing, quite technical up a steep series of positive but tiny edges to gain a pocket. This just took two fingers, and a steep pull gained bigger holds and a short easy slab. A final groove led to the top: great stuff and another satisfying, clean lead, arguably British E2. The other routes up this wall were lengthy pitches in a similar vein but much easier (L'Envolee took the crack separating the slab with the steeper walls to the left). Vic then led another obvious classic corner line, the polished Diedre de la Republique, with tricky bridging and a surprisingly strenuous and awkward crux right at the top. We were tiring after hundreds of metres of steep and sustained climbing, but I wanted one more lead so went for the unheralded but excellent La Dextre. This looked scrappy from below, but actually gave a very varied and long pitch, up steep pocketed limestone walls to gain a layback before another wall led to the top. Ran back up the steep zigzags to the car by way of hopelessly inadequate training for next Saturday's Peris Horseshoe race!
Routes: La San Nom (f4+:led), Le Rappel (f4+:sec), La Tribu de Chantal (f5:sec), Le Diedre des Limaces (f4+:sec), Plien la Vue Directe (f5:sec), La Radine (f6a:led), Combien ca Coute? (f5:sec), UNR (f4:sec), L'Envolee de Jeanine (f5:sec), Diedre de la Republique (f5+:sec), La Dextre (f5:led)
After a night in the centre of Cuneo, I was desperate to salvage something from the trip after missing out on the main objective yesterday. However, prospects looked bleak as it started to rain in the main piazza of Cuneo as we left the hotel. This became absolutely torrential as we crossed into France after the Tende tunnel, so we were forced to abandon our designs on the granite crags above St Dalmas and Sospel. Instead, we drove all the way to La Turbie above Monaco in a remarkable deluge which luckily stopped as we arrived at the car park poised above Monaco's stadium. After walking down the zigzags that lead to La Dalle a l'Oiseau, just one of the many crags that litter the hillside above Monaco, the sun came out and the rock was miraculously bone dry. Still desperate to salvage the trip, I went straight for the classic line of the crag: the soaring groove line of La San Nom, which despite its French grade gives a superb 35m long British VS pitch. Pocketed slabs give way to the main groove, which has two steeper sections taken on big holds, then some easy bridging, before a steep crux move just before the top to gain a final juggy wall. A tremendous pitch, neatly sustained at a fairly gentle standard - but interesting throughout. Le Rappel is another long pitch up superbly positive pockets and flakes, while La Tribu de Chantal is a little harder - we did the top half, which finishes up an awkward prow via some tricky moves. Vic then led the obvious corner/diedre to the left, which gives some polished bridging and is rather overshadowed by the arete to its left taken by the superb Plien la Vue Directe. This is a fantastic, photogenic line - quite elegant but rather polished especially higher up. Easy slabs lead to a small platform, then delicate moves up the crest of the vertical arete with stunning views out over Cap Ferrat to distant Esterel. The sun was now warming things up quite dramatically, and I was feeling reasonably strong (by my pathetic standards) so upped the grade with a lead of La Radine on the right of the crag. This gave sustained and excellent 6a climbing, quite technical up a steep series of positive but tiny edges to gain a pocket. This just took two fingers, and a steep pull gained bigger holds and a short easy slab. A final groove led to the top: great stuff and another satisfying, clean lead, arguably British E2. The other routes up this wall were lengthy pitches in a similar vein but much easier (L'Envolee took the crack separating the slab with the steeper walls to the left). Vic then led another obvious classic corner line, the polished Diedre de la Republique, with tricky bridging and a surprisingly strenuous and awkward crux right at the top. We were tiring after hundreds of metres of steep and sustained climbing, but I wanted one more lead so went for the unheralded but excellent La Dextre. This looked scrappy from below, but actually gave a very varied and long pitch, up steep pocketed limestone walls to gain a layback before another wall led to the top. Ran back up the steep zigzags to the car by way of hopelessly inadequate training for next Saturday's Peris Horseshoe race!
Saturday, September 07, 2013
Viso Mozzo
Peak: Viso Mozzo (3019m/9,904ft)
Area: Cottian Alps, Piemonte, Italy
This peak is completely overshadowed by Monte Viso and was a very disappointing consolation prize for me after abandoning the main climb. The day had started encouragingly after a 4am breakfast and an efficient start under clear starlit skies. All very atmospheric, particularly as we reached the chains and via ferrata section that leads up a series of steep ridges to gain Passo Sangatte. As the first glimmers of light allowed us to see the onward route, the mist came down around the upper cwm. Worse, I was suffering from a nasty stomach bug and had managed very little sleep. After some half-hearted slogging up the base of the cwm I decided to call it a day and - after months of planning - retreated back down the chains to the hut, after which I climbed up Viso Mozzo in disconsolate mood. I did, however, have the bonus of some stunning photographic scenes as the mist cleared on a number of occasions. Spectacular views up mist-draped rock walls, thousands of feet high, along with several brockenspectres as the sun backlit my shadow on the clouds below. I sauntered down to Pian del Rei where I walked up the neighbouring valleys and bathed in the source of the Po as I waited for Vic.
Area: Cottian Alps, Piemonte, Italy
This peak is completely overshadowed by Monte Viso and was a very disappointing consolation prize for me after abandoning the main climb. The day had started encouragingly after a 4am breakfast and an efficient start under clear starlit skies. All very atmospheric, particularly as we reached the chains and via ferrata section that leads up a series of steep ridges to gain Passo Sangatte. As the first glimmers of light allowed us to see the onward route, the mist came down around the upper cwm. Worse, I was suffering from a nasty stomach bug and had managed very little sleep. After some half-hearted slogging up the base of the cwm I decided to call it a day and - after months of planning - retreated back down the chains to the hut, after which I climbed up Viso Mozzo in disconsolate mood. I did, however, have the bonus of some stunning photographic scenes as the mist cleared on a number of occasions. Spectacular views up mist-draped rock walls, thousands of feet high, along with several brockenspectres as the sun backlit my shadow on the clouds below. I sauntered down to Pian del Rei where I walked up the neighbouring valleys and bathed in the source of the Po as I waited for Vic.
Friday, September 06, 2013
Pian del Rei-Rifugio Quintino Sella
Mist enveloped the car park as we arrived at Pian del Rei, so we enjoyed a very cool walk-in after a hot morning's cragging. Indeed, we felt quite at home up here - as the valleys above Crissalo have a distinctively Welsh feel: at least they did in these conditions. The walk-in to the Sella hut is lengthy but nowhere near as steep as Wednesday's slog to the Remondino hut. A few zigzags lead to a stream crossing then tranquil Lago Fiorenza. Vic and I kept to our own pace, and just above the lake I saw my first salamander, the endemic Salamandra Lanzei, which only lives in this corner of the Cottian Alps - an extraordinary sight, completely black and completely tame. I went on to see several more during the walk-in. A short climb up a narrow valley led to a long, looping traverse around the stunning, turquoise Lago Chiaretto. I was completely alone in the landscape now, the mist draping the walls of Viso to the right and the wedge-shaped Viso Mozzo directly in front: all quite dramatic. I waited for Vic and we continued upwards into the mist, weaving through some hostile moraines (dozens of alpine accentors, alpine chough and water pipits here) to finally gain views of the Lago Grande del Viso and the hut, which just materialised out of the mist. Rather chilly as we arrived, but a convivial evening followed, with superb roast beef and red wine as the rain hammered against the windows of the hut.
Po Valley climbing
Crag: San Leonardo, Piemonte, Italy
Routes: Spigolino (f5a:led), La Barbie (f5c:sec), Bugs Bunny (f5a:sec), Siamo Solo Noi (f5b:led), Siamo Pure (f5b:sec), Rodicchio (f4c:led), Super Mario (f5c:sec), Il Gufo (f5c:led), Vento Da Nord (f5b:sec), Liberati (f6a+:sec)
The upper Po Valley is littered with granite crags, and you don't have to drive far from Saluzzo to get to them. So after an excellent evening enjoying Dolcetto d'Alba and a range of aperitivos in the old town, we were keen to get some cragging in after breakfast. Monte Bracco is probably the finest crag in these parts, but we were mindful of the need to conserve energy after Argentera and before our attempt on Viso, so we settled for the similar but smaller crag of San Leonardo above the village of Revello. The walk-in became far more of a trial than it needed to be, because a jeep obscured the critical path junction which led to the crag. So we made a tiring and unnecessary detour to the shrine of San Leonardo on top of a big hill overlooking the Po Valley. Eventually, however, we reached the crag, which was ideal for our purposes today: perhaps 20-25m high, well-bolted, shady and tree-lined, all routes on solid gneiss. I kicked off with a lead of Spigolino, a little ridge as its name suggests, which gave delightful gentle climbing up an elegant rib of gneiss. Vic's lead of La Barbie was a steeper but varied line at f5c/HVS, which took a weirdly awkward series of interlocking reefs of granite before emerging onto a delicate and technical slab. Bugs Bunny took an easier groove further left. I then led another fine route, Siamo Solo Noi, which went easily to a small overhang taken on big holds. Great moves over this to another thought-provoking slabby finish. The left-hand line was marginally harder, particularly as the sun was now drenching the upper part of the crag and it was becoming quite hot. Rodicchio was an easy route on huge holds, while Super Mario gave some really excellent steep and juggy climbing up a series of quite powerful vertical cracks at f5c+/E1. The route of the day, from my perspective, came next - Il Gufo (the Owl), a big 80ft pitch taking an excellent natural line up the highest part of the crag. Initially, the route goes up an awkward wide chimney, which slants right and can be avoided by some steep and insecure (and rather green) shelves on the right wall. A few moves up the chimney then become necessary, before the route breaks out right up the now clean wall to an excellent sustained headwall with some tricky but elegant moves. Neatly sustained at f5c/HVS+ throughout: a pleasingly efficient, clean lead. A couple of shorter routes, including one at f6a+ which contained one very technical move off a one-finger pocket, before we retreated from the sun up the valley to a panini in Cristallo. We then took the tortuous road all the way to Pian del Rei at 2000m, where we began the long walk-in to the Sella Hut in temperatures that were at least 20c cooler.
Routes: Spigolino (f5a:led), La Barbie (f5c:sec), Bugs Bunny (f5a:sec), Siamo Solo Noi (f5b:led), Siamo Pure (f5b:sec), Rodicchio (f4c:led), Super Mario (f5c:sec), Il Gufo (f5c:led), Vento Da Nord (f5b:sec), Liberati (f6a+:sec)
The upper Po Valley is littered with granite crags, and you don't have to drive far from Saluzzo to get to them. So after an excellent evening enjoying Dolcetto d'Alba and a range of aperitivos in the old town, we were keen to get some cragging in after breakfast. Monte Bracco is probably the finest crag in these parts, but we were mindful of the need to conserve energy after Argentera and before our attempt on Viso, so we settled for the similar but smaller crag of San Leonardo above the village of Revello. The walk-in became far more of a trial than it needed to be, because a jeep obscured the critical path junction which led to the crag. So we made a tiring and unnecessary detour to the shrine of San Leonardo on top of a big hill overlooking the Po Valley. Eventually, however, we reached the crag, which was ideal for our purposes today: perhaps 20-25m high, well-bolted, shady and tree-lined, all routes on solid gneiss. I kicked off with a lead of Spigolino, a little ridge as its name suggests, which gave delightful gentle climbing up an elegant rib of gneiss. Vic's lead of La Barbie was a steeper but varied line at f5c/HVS, which took a weirdly awkward series of interlocking reefs of granite before emerging onto a delicate and technical slab. Bugs Bunny took an easier groove further left. I then led another fine route, Siamo Solo Noi, which went easily to a small overhang taken on big holds. Great moves over this to another thought-provoking slabby finish. The left-hand line was marginally harder, particularly as the sun was now drenching the upper part of the crag and it was becoming quite hot. Rodicchio was an easy route on huge holds, while Super Mario gave some really excellent steep and juggy climbing up a series of quite powerful vertical cracks at f5c+/E1. The route of the day, from my perspective, came next - Il Gufo (the Owl), a big 80ft pitch taking an excellent natural line up the highest part of the crag. Initially, the route goes up an awkward wide chimney, which slants right and can be avoided by some steep and insecure (and rather green) shelves on the right wall. A few moves up the chimney then become necessary, before the route breaks out right up the now clean wall to an excellent sustained headwall with some tricky but elegant moves. Neatly sustained at f5c/HVS+ throughout: a pleasingly efficient, clean lead. A couple of shorter routes, including one at f6a+ which contained one very technical move off a one-finger pocket, before we retreated from the sun up the valley to a panini in Cristallo. We then took the tortuous road all the way to Pian del Rei at 2000m, where we began the long walk-in to the Sella Hut in temperatures that were at least 20c cooler.
Thursday, September 05, 2013
Argentera
Peaks: Cima Sud, Argentera (3297m/10,817ft)
Area: Alpi Maritime, Piemonte, Italy
Routes: South-East Flank (PD II)
September means a late dawn this far south in the Alps, so there was no need for a 4am start. It's a shortish route, too, despite its status as the highest peak in the Maritime Alps, so we breakfasted in a dark hut at 6am and left in the half-light before 7am. Some mist was still draping the lower part of the Assedras cwm as we took the intricate route through the moraines before beginning the ever-steepening slog up towards the Passo dei Detriti. As its name suggests, this involves some appalling scree and moraine powder higher up. We managed to find a few more solid ribs to scramble up, and the ascent was enlivened by views of Nasta and more distant northern peaks above the Val di Gesso that I've climbed before like Malinvern and Fremamorta. Still, it was with some relief that we gained the Passo and stunning morning views over the rest of the Maritime Alps as the sunshine lit the ridge. But the views Gelas, Maledie et al, good though they are, are eclipsed by the prospect of the onward route - largely because it is such an outrageously improbable line for an easy scramble. No wonder it wasn't discovered until years after Coolidge made the first ascent of the peak by a much harder ice couloir further north in 1879. Essentially, it is a narrow ramp curving up to a couloir, almost invisible from below. We descended a little too far over the other side of the ridge initially, giving us a slightly awkward and exposed section of slabby scrambling to gain the main ledge line at two long fixed ropes below the walls of Cima Genova. The ledge line continues in this superbly atmospheric vein, poised between the upper walls and the small glacier/neve field above the Baus bivouac. A few quite narrow sections lead to a rounded slab then a short chimney. Above this, easier and less exposed slopes up to a much longer couloir, which has fixed ropes up its entire length but gives pleasant II+ scrambling up to the east ridge. This gives a short section of very easy scrambling to gain the summit. We spent a few minutes here enjoying fantastic views as far as Monte Rosa, with tendrils of mist accentuating the atmosphere of the walls plunging down to the south. It was very satisfying to pick out the peaks I've climbed in this area. We roped up for some of the descent, just to renew our acquaintance with moving together. The ledge traverse was misty initially, then clearing, giving some stunning effects. From the Passo, the descent back to the hut, then valley, is pretty arduous. I passed within a couple of metres of a huge ibex at one point, then a small flock of ptarmigan (still white) flew over. After a cold wash in the river, we drove for pizza in Borgo San Dalmazzo, then continued north to hotel and aperitifs in Saluzzo.
Area: Alpi Maritime, Piemonte, Italy
Routes: South-East Flank (PD II)
September means a late dawn this far south in the Alps, so there was no need for a 4am start. It's a shortish route, too, despite its status as the highest peak in the Maritime Alps, so we breakfasted in a dark hut at 6am and left in the half-light before 7am. Some mist was still draping the lower part of the Assedras cwm as we took the intricate route through the moraines before beginning the ever-steepening slog up towards the Passo dei Detriti. As its name suggests, this involves some appalling scree and moraine powder higher up. We managed to find a few more solid ribs to scramble up, and the ascent was enlivened by views of Nasta and more distant northern peaks above the Val di Gesso that I've climbed before like Malinvern and Fremamorta. Still, it was with some relief that we gained the Passo and stunning morning views over the rest of the Maritime Alps as the sunshine lit the ridge. But the views Gelas, Maledie et al, good though they are, are eclipsed by the prospect of the onward route - largely because it is such an outrageously improbable line for an easy scramble. No wonder it wasn't discovered until years after Coolidge made the first ascent of the peak by a much harder ice couloir further north in 1879. Essentially, it is a narrow ramp curving up to a couloir, almost invisible from below. We descended a little too far over the other side of the ridge initially, giving us a slightly awkward and exposed section of slabby scrambling to gain the main ledge line at two long fixed ropes below the walls of Cima Genova. The ledge line continues in this superbly atmospheric vein, poised between the upper walls and the small glacier/neve field above the Baus bivouac. A few quite narrow sections lead to a rounded slab then a short chimney. Above this, easier and less exposed slopes up to a much longer couloir, which has fixed ropes up its entire length but gives pleasant II+ scrambling up to the east ridge. This gives a short section of very easy scrambling to gain the summit. We spent a few minutes here enjoying fantastic views as far as Monte Rosa, with tendrils of mist accentuating the atmosphere of the walls plunging down to the south. It was very satisfying to pick out the peaks I've climbed in this area. We roped up for some of the descent, just to renew our acquaintance with moving together. The ledge traverse was misty initially, then clearing, giving some stunning effects. From the Passo, the descent back to the hut, then valley, is pretty arduous. I passed within a couple of metres of a huge ibex at one point, then a small flock of ptarmigan (still white) flew over. After a cold wash in the river, we drove for pizza in Borgo San Dalmazzo, then continued north to hotel and aperitifs in Saluzzo.
Wednesday, September 04, 2013
Valdieri-Rifugio Remondino walk
Over a period of two decades, I reckon I've climbed more than 30 peaks in the Maritime Alps. However, the one big omission from my CV has always been the Argentera, the highpoint of the range. So this short trip with Vic seemed a good way to put that right, by treating it as a short acclimatisation peak en route to Viso. It's a long drive from Nice across the border into Liguria then Piemonte. Pleasant though, especially if you break the drive with salad nicoise in a superb Tende restaurant. The drive to the roadhead at Terme di Valdieri is astonishing: it starts off well surfaced and not too steep, but ends in several miles of bouldery unsurfaced singletrack. Not for the faint-hearted, and not ideal in the tiny C1 hire car we'd just picked up at Nice airport! The walk-in to the Remondino hut at the base of the Argentera is short and sharp, but the scenery at the end of the valley is delightful. I know the other side of this valley (i.e. across the frontier ridge around Le Boreon) very well, just a steep walk away on foot, but hundreds of miles and a day's journey by car. After weaving up through copses, a huge boulder field allows steeper upper slopes below a superb waterfall to be reached. A final steep (and hot) pull gains the upper cwm and the hut in a spectacular position below the pinnacles of Nasta and Argentera. We were both tired after a 5am start from Wales, so a few glasses of wine and an excellent meal of local game (chamois?) and mash sent us off for an early night after enjoying a wonderful cloud inversion as tendrils of mist licked up the Val di Gesso.
Sunday, September 01, 2013
Caernarfon 10k
Race: Caernarfon 10k (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 36.10 (9th from 211 [2nd V40])
It's always nice to have an excuse to head out to Caernarfon with the family, even though we'd just got back from a long drive to London via Leicester. This was an opportunity to clear the head, although I still had a long urban East End run through Leyton in my legs. As such, it was a workmanlike performance at best, a few seconds down on last year's time (when it incorporated the Welsh Champs) and even further down on my best time for the course. I know from past experience that it is easy for me to overdo it on the flat seaside section that goes on for over 4k, with great views of Mynydd Mawr and the Menai Straits. I have suffered on the hills that give the rest of this route its character as a result of this in the past. So I took it fairly easy, especially as there was a headwind, losing too much ground to others in the category perhaps and going through 5k in 18.00. But it did mean I felt reasonably fresh for the hills, and I did pick up a few more places before losing out in the final very fast section past the castle.
Time/Position: 36.10 (9th from 211 [2nd V40])
It's always nice to have an excuse to head out to Caernarfon with the family, even though we'd just got back from a long drive to London via Leicester. This was an opportunity to clear the head, although I still had a long urban East End run through Leyton in my legs. As such, it was a workmanlike performance at best, a few seconds down on last year's time (when it incorporated the Welsh Champs) and even further down on my best time for the course. I know from past experience that it is easy for me to overdo it on the flat seaside section that goes on for over 4k, with great views of Mynydd Mawr and the Menai Straits. I have suffered on the hills that give the rest of this route its character as a result of this in the past. So I took it fairly easy, especially as there was a headwind, losing too much ground to others in the category perhaps and going through 5k in 18.00. But it did mean I felt reasonably fresh for the hills, and I did pick up a few more places before losing out in the final very fast section past the castle.
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