Argentera

Peaks: Cima Sud, Argentera (3297m/10,817ft)
Area: Alpi Maritime, Piemonte, Italy
Routes: South-East Flank (PD II)
September means a late dawn this far south in the Alps, so there was no need for a 4am start. It's a shortish route, too, despite its status as the highest peak in the Maritime Alps, so we breakfasted in a dark hut at 6am and left in the half-light before 7am. Some mist was still draping the lower part of the Assedras cwm as we took the intricate route through the moraines before beginning the ever-steepening slog up towards the Passo dei Detriti. As its name suggests, this involves some appalling scree and moraine powder higher up. We managed to find a few more solid ribs to scramble up, and the ascent was enlivened by views of Nasta and more distant northern peaks above the Val di Gesso that I've climbed before like Malinvern and Fremamorta. Still, it was with some relief that we gained the Passo and stunning morning views over the rest of the Maritime Alps as the sunshine lit the ridge. But the views Gelas, Maledie et al, good though they are, are eclipsed by the prospect of the onward route - largely because it is such an outrageously improbable line for an easy scramble. No wonder it wasn't discovered until years after Coolidge made the first ascent of the peak by a much harder ice couloir further north in 1879. Essentially, it is a narrow ramp curving up to a couloir, almost invisible from below. We descended a little too far over the other side of the ridge initially, giving us a slightly awkward and exposed section of slabby scrambling to gain the main ledge line at two long fixed ropes below the walls of Cima Genova. The ledge line continues in this superbly atmospheric vein, poised between the upper walls and the small glacier/neve field above the Baus bivouac. A few quite narrow sections lead to a rounded slab then a short chimney. Above this, easier and less exposed slopes up to a much longer couloir, which has fixed ropes up its entire length but gives pleasant II+ scrambling up to the east ridge. This gives a short section of very easy scrambling to gain the summit. We spent a few minutes here enjoying fantastic views as far as Monte Rosa, with tendrils of mist accentuating the atmosphere of the walls plunging down to the south. It was very satisfying to pick out the peaks I've climbed in this area. We roped up for some of the descent, just to renew our acquaintance with moving together. The ledge traverse was misty initially, then clearing, giving some stunning effects. From the Passo, the descent back to the hut, then valley, is pretty arduous. I passed within a couple of metres of a huge ibex at one point, then a small flock of ptarmigan (still white) flew over. After a cold wash in the river, we drove for pizza in Borgo San Dalmazzo, then continued north to hotel and aperitifs in Saluzzo.