Craig Rhiw Goch climbing

Crag: Craig Rhiw Goch, Lledr Valley
Routes: Reign (S:led), Congl (VS 4c:sec), Congl Direct Finish (HVS 5b:sec), The Riparian (E2 5c:sec)
A small but exquisitely formed crag on the banks of the Lledr. I've wanted to do these routes for years, but have never got round to it, partly because the crag is not the easiest venue to find. Once you work it out, though, it's just a few minutes from the road, which makes its unpopularity even more baffling than other nearby venues like Crafnant and Swallow Falls. I imagine it's something to do with its absence from modern selective guidebooks (although it is in my old tried and tested Williams guide). We only had a couple of hours spare late on, but that was enough time to do the routes, although it would have been nice to linger as it is a delightful spot in oak woodland right next to a beautiful stretch of the Lledr, a constant rushing presence. Reign is a very pleasant Severe, but the first few feet are a bit dirty now - and the rock was greasy after recent rain. But a steep 30ft wall is then taken on excellent holds to a little spike, then a ledge on the left before a juggy rib leads up to a final slab. A neat little route which, to repeat a theme from this summer's esoteric climbing trips, needs more traffic. I had to clear the mud from cracks to place gear higher up. Congl takes the obvious central groove, with a tricky move up the initial wall to gain a narrow slab which merges with the main groove and gives good easy climbing to a steepening. After one thought-provoking move which needs careful footwork, a ledge is reached. Vic traversed left on the normal finish, but I was able to take the excellent direct finish up the steep continuation groove. This is not as hard as the given grade (VS+ 5a I'd say) but gives a fine steep finish on small positive holds. The Riparian is even better - a superb 100ft pitch with varied technical climbing. It is never very strenuous, but absorbing throughout and a feasible lead. The initial steep slab is delightful, never overly obvious, but little flakey holds and neat thoughtful footwork allows the thin groove above to be gained. The crack here is slim but positive and leads to a right-leaning crack which I assumed was the crux. Instead, it goes easily to a resting foot ledge before a slim groove leads to two pockets. Then comes the crux, near the top: a fierce pull on the pockets with little ripples for the feet gains a good jug and easy finishing groove. Immaculate climbing. Then it was off to Cadole for the Friday night Clwydian run, followed by a rest before Sunday's Welsh 10k championships in Swansea.