Road Cycling: Vence-Col de Vence-Vence
Distance: 30k
A regular feature on the 'race to the sun', Paris-Nice, this excellent climb takes you up into wild haute Provence territory and is a dramatic contrast with the bustle of the nearby coastal resorts. I only had an hour to get up and down, and had already run up Brec d'Utelle in the morning so the legs were not at their best. I would have loved to have completed the obvious loop around Coursegoules and Gourdon, but that would have taken far too long with the family enjoying cold drinks in Vence. So I settled for starting at the bottom of the town, then finding my way to the start of the climb (marked for cyclists with gradient and altitude every km, just like the big Alpine cols). It starts quite steeply through the top of Vence, then eases and straightens as it moves out into an arid, baking valley. Mid-afternoon on a hot day, with temperatures well into the 30s and not a breath of wind, this was desperately hot work. At the top of the first long drag, however, a hairpin provided some merciful relief and a blast of cooling sea breeze with the Med below. I was still dripping with sweat, however, despite the gentle gradient (7% typically). As the climb weaves higher, all traces of the Cote d'Azur disappear to be replaced by wild limestone scenery and great views over to the crag of St Jeannet, the Brec d'Utelle that I'd just run up, and the higher Maritime Alps. The road surface is perfect, and the cycling just ideal for tired legs: challenging but not too challenging! A lovely climb that came to an end too soon (still, at least 10km of constant uphill from Vence). I was up in 44m and got down in 16m (a brilliant descent with the Med in front the whole way) so stayed within my allotted hour for the outing.
A self-indulgent journal of pointless adventures in mountain sports and all forms of distance running and racing.
Thursday, July 31, 2014
Brec d'Utelle
Peak: Brec d'Utelle (1604m)
Area: Vesubie, Provence
This beautiful limestone peak represents something of a transition between the Provencal limestone hills to the south-west and the Maritime Alps further north. It is supremely runnable, offers incredible views as a result of that transitional location, and is poised directly above the exquisite perched village of Utelle. Rather surprising then that I'd never been up here before, but my proposed family day higher up the valley in my favourite St Martin Vesubie was vetoed by the democratic collective family unit. So we drove up the hairpins to Utelle as a shorter alternative. E and K came some of the way up the path joining the GR5, then I ran the rest. At first, this is steep as the path zig-zags up the hillside through woodland to gain height. It then levels off for superb running with views of Castel Gineste (reminiscent of Wyoming's Devils Tower) and the Maritime Alps ahead. Stunning clarity of light. All very runnable, so I quickly reached an obvious col on the ridge. From here, the route passes over to the other (western) side, giving new views of Lachens, Mounier and the peaks I've climbed above Castellane - Robion, Bernard etc. Better still, the onward path is cut into the side of the mountain - reminding me of the amazing Chemin d'Energie in Haute Tinee. As a result, the onward run was spectacular, a gently rising path leading to the spur of the Crete de 'Albarea. It then enters cool woods before another pronounced col below the Tete d'Escandolier. Steep zigzags, very hot work, lead to the ridge crest near the Petit Brec. I then left the GR5 for the surprise final scramble to the summit. This takes a short ridge to an initially intimidating looking spire of limestone. In reality, a delightful scrambling ascent weaves around taking optional pitches up to one or two unavoidable but easy chimneys. A short avoidable knife edge leads to a final scramble to the summit. Brilliant views of the Mercantour: Argentera, St Robert, Gelas, Ponset, Neiglier, Capalet and Bego the most notable peaks, all of which I have done (except Neiglier). The Med glistening silver to the south and the purple limestone of the Castellane peaks - ridge after ridge leading to Verdon west. I was up in a pleasing 54 minutes of running, but had very little time to get down to meet the family by the water fountain in Utelle's square by 12.20. So I pelted down the slopes, enjoying more unparalleled mountain running to get back in time for a huge lunch of local produce in the fantastic village restaurant. Thus fortified, I had just enough energy to head to Vence for a quick bike ride up into the clues of Haute Provence.
Area: Vesubie, Provence
This beautiful limestone peak represents something of a transition between the Provencal limestone hills to the south-west and the Maritime Alps further north. It is supremely runnable, offers incredible views as a result of that transitional location, and is poised directly above the exquisite perched village of Utelle. Rather surprising then that I'd never been up here before, but my proposed family day higher up the valley in my favourite St Martin Vesubie was vetoed by the democratic collective family unit. So we drove up the hairpins to Utelle as a shorter alternative. E and K came some of the way up the path joining the GR5, then I ran the rest. At first, this is steep as the path zig-zags up the hillside through woodland to gain height. It then levels off for superb running with views of Castel Gineste (reminiscent of Wyoming's Devils Tower) and the Maritime Alps ahead. Stunning clarity of light. All very runnable, so I quickly reached an obvious col on the ridge. From here, the route passes over to the other (western) side, giving new views of Lachens, Mounier and the peaks I've climbed above Castellane - Robion, Bernard etc. Better still, the onward path is cut into the side of the mountain - reminding me of the amazing Chemin d'Energie in Haute Tinee. As a result, the onward run was spectacular, a gently rising path leading to the spur of the Crete de 'Albarea. It then enters cool woods before another pronounced col below the Tete d'Escandolier. Steep zigzags, very hot work, lead to the ridge crest near the Petit Brec. I then left the GR5 for the surprise final scramble to the summit. This takes a short ridge to an initially intimidating looking spire of limestone. In reality, a delightful scrambling ascent weaves around taking optional pitches up to one or two unavoidable but easy chimneys. A short avoidable knife edge leads to a final scramble to the summit. Brilliant views of the Mercantour: Argentera, St Robert, Gelas, Ponset, Neiglier, Capalet and Bego the most notable peaks, all of which I have done (except Neiglier). The Med glistening silver to the south and the purple limestone of the Castellane peaks - ridge after ridge leading to Verdon west. I was up in a pleasing 54 minutes of running, but had very little time to get down to meet the family by the water fountain in Utelle's square by 12.20. So I pelted down the slopes, enjoying more unparalleled mountain running to get back in time for a huge lunch of local produce in the fantastic village restaurant. Thus fortified, I had just enough energy to head to Vence for a quick bike ride up into the clues of Haute Provence.
Wednesday, July 30, 2014
Esterel climbing
Crag: Gorge du Blavet
Routes: La Quatrieme Dimension (f4b:led), Elles se Rendant pas Compte (f4b:sec), La 205 a Gerard (f4b:sec), Sans Nom Six (f4b:led)
Crag: Cap Dramont
Routes: Moon Flower (f3+:sol), Let's Go (f3+:sol), RER (f3+:sol), Petit Pimouss (f3+sol), Right Arete (f3:sol), Left Crack (f3:sol), Left Slab (f3:sol), Right Slab (f3:sol)
On my last visit to Blavet, Vic and I climbed a route in the main gorge then pushed the grade to 6b+ at La Capelle. This was a little different: a family visit to the smaller crags on the little buttresses south of the main gorge. The crag we settled on had the typical Esterel ambience: always a delight. I led a nice little F4 for the children to try. Over a bulge to some typical Esterel pockets and a huge handlebar hold, Then up a crack to a steep finishing bulge. M got all the way to the final move, while E exhibited superb bridging technique! The routes either side were also pleasant, especially 'Gerard' up a nice juggy crack. I led one more slabby climb before we escaped the heat for a luxury picnic of roast chicken and peaches at the top end of the gorge. We then retired to have fun by the sea at Dramont, where I later ran round the wonderful coastal path to solo some familiar easy lines in the few minutes I had available: two on the lower 'path' crag, two on Pilier de Soleil (I've done every route on this crag I think), then some on the superbly rough easy slab above the sea facing the Ile d'Or.
Routes: La Quatrieme Dimension (f4b:led), Elles se Rendant pas Compte (f4b:sec), La 205 a Gerard (f4b:sec), Sans Nom Six (f4b:led)
Crag: Cap Dramont
Routes: Moon Flower (f3+:sol), Let's Go (f3+:sol), RER (f3+:sol), Petit Pimouss (f3+sol), Right Arete (f3:sol), Left Crack (f3:sol), Left Slab (f3:sol), Right Slab (f3:sol)
On my last visit to Blavet, Vic and I climbed a route in the main gorge then pushed the grade to 6b+ at La Capelle. This was a little different: a family visit to the smaller crags on the little buttresses south of the main gorge. The crag we settled on had the typical Esterel ambience: always a delight. I led a nice little F4 for the children to try. Over a bulge to some typical Esterel pockets and a huge handlebar hold, Then up a crack to a steep finishing bulge. M got all the way to the final move, while E exhibited superb bridging technique! The routes either side were also pleasant, especially 'Gerard' up a nice juggy crack. I led one more slabby climb before we escaped the heat for a luxury picnic of roast chicken and peaches at the top end of the gorge. We then retired to have fun by the sea at Dramont, where I later ran round the wonderful coastal path to solo some familiar easy lines in the few minutes I had available: two on the lower 'path' crag, two on Pilier de Soleil (I've done every route on this crag I think), then some on the superbly rough easy slab above the sea facing the Ile d'Or.
Tuesday, July 29, 2014
Esterel 'triathlon'
As ever, the problem with staying in the Esterel is that there is too much to do! I'd already enjoyed my favourite early morning running loop via the Gorges de Perthus and Col de Mistral. But since I had the bike with me, I thought an informal 'triathlon' might be good (a 'quadrathlon', including rock climbing, might be a future possibility). A hint of the mistral in the air, so a cool morning outing before breakfast with incredible clarity of light for the time of year. I headed into the Esterel by bike, then climbed up to the Plateau d'Antheor, changed into running gear, and ran up Pic du Cap Roux via the fantastic contouring path that offers unparalleled views of the silvery med and red rocks above the Corniche d'Or. From the summit, crystal clear views to Gelas and the rest of the Maritime Alps. I ran down: a quick descent, then cycled east round the base of Cap Roux to the col and up Pic de l'Ours, which comes across like a 'mini Ventoux'. Hot, but not desperately so, and a long sequence of hairpins with brilliant views over Cannes. Sadly, access is barred to the top section of the summit road so I was restricted to the Col de Notre Dame just below to the top. From here, I cycled back via Saint Baume and went for an incompetent floundering swim to complete the 'triathlon'.
Friday, July 25, 2014
Col de la Madeleine/Col du Glandon cycling
Road Cycling: La Chambre-Col de la Madeleine-La Chambre-Col du Glandon-Lac de Verney (French Alps)
Distance/climb: 110k/3200m
Two ultra-classic cols in one day: a memorable ride through sacred cycling terrain and the main target of this year's very brief second foray onto the climbs of the Tour. I left La Chambre in perfect cycling weather - cool and sunny - for the massive 20k climb up the Madeleine. As with my previous cycling trip to the Alps in 2011, it is tremendously exciting to start up one of the iconic Alpine climbs: this is without question the greatest backdrop for any sporting event in the world. And although for me nothing quite matches climbing the peaks themselves, cycling up the cols provides almost equally memorable experiences. I spent the first 5k getting into some kind of rhythm, not easy as the Madeleine is quite tough from the start and does not provide any real respite on this steep southern side: any easing is only very temporary! That said, you can churn away at the 9% slopes and relax a little round the hairpins. Dozens of cyclists go up every day, and it was comforting to be able to overtake quite a few in this first section. Through the curiously named village of Le Planet, the climb eases slightly before kicking up quite sharply through the woods. The views begin to open out: down over the Maurienne valley and upwards to the broad slopes of the Madeleine. The ski resort of Longchamp is an unpleasant and jarring interlude, but it is quickly passed: above lies lovely meadows and a superb sequence of long hairpins to the col. Magnificent stuff, although I took a rather slow 1.40 to get up, mindful of the fact that the mighty Glandon lay in wait on the other side of the valley! The descent was, as expected, stunning. Quite technical and twisting with all the hairpins, but absolutely exhilarating with superb views in front. Through La Chambre then across to St Etienne on the other side of the Maurienne valley for a quick picnic lunch of pizza, ham and cheese, en famille, 1k up the Glandon. Then it was straight onto the second monster climb of the day: the Glandon, with a similar set of vital statistics to the Madeleine (ie over 20k constant climbing, 1600m of ascent!). It was now hot, and the lower section of the climb is only partially wooded. It was a desperate battle to find my rhythm at first, but eventually I got my second wind from the food and ploughed up towards the village and a very welcome 1.5k easy section. This was the only relaxed riding all day: just gently inclining. Then came the finale, up to a dramatic amphitheatre, with the best scenery of the day: a river valley left and towering rock walls and pinnacles above. Stupendous stuff, although marred slightly as I was soon attacked by a swarm of bees. One stung my back through the shirt, not too bad, but another got under my helmet and stung my bald pate. Not very pleasant as it buzzed around angrily below the helmet looking to strike again. However, it gave me the adrenalin surge I needed! Above, the road rears up into the infamous final 2k section of steep hairpins. Kate refused to drive, so I soldiered on in intense heat and a fair amount of discomfort (a combination of throbbing bee stings, tired legs and aching buttocks) to the col. I descended back to drive the family up the col! Then, after enjoying the stunning views back to the pleasingly distant Madeleine, indulged in the truly spectacular descent from the Croix de Fer down towards the amazing Lac de Grand Maison. This was fast and memorable, but leads to a brief climb before a perfect gentle contour above the lake leads to another plummeting and very fast descent. Above lurks an agonisingly painful final climb before another very long descent past Vaujany to Lac de Verney and the more familiar territory of the Oisans valley. Harder than my day over the Izoard and Vars in 2011 - 45k uphill with 11,000 feet of climbing.
Distance/climb: 110k/3200m
Two ultra-classic cols in one day: a memorable ride through sacred cycling terrain and the main target of this year's very brief second foray onto the climbs of the Tour. I left La Chambre in perfect cycling weather - cool and sunny - for the massive 20k climb up the Madeleine. As with my previous cycling trip to the Alps in 2011, it is tremendously exciting to start up one of the iconic Alpine climbs: this is without question the greatest backdrop for any sporting event in the world. And although for me nothing quite matches climbing the peaks themselves, cycling up the cols provides almost equally memorable experiences. I spent the first 5k getting into some kind of rhythm, not easy as the Madeleine is quite tough from the start and does not provide any real respite on this steep southern side: any easing is only very temporary! That said, you can churn away at the 9% slopes and relax a little round the hairpins. Dozens of cyclists go up every day, and it was comforting to be able to overtake quite a few in this first section. Through the curiously named village of Le Planet, the climb eases slightly before kicking up quite sharply through the woods. The views begin to open out: down over the Maurienne valley and upwards to the broad slopes of the Madeleine. The ski resort of Longchamp is an unpleasant and jarring interlude, but it is quickly passed: above lies lovely meadows and a superb sequence of long hairpins to the col. Magnificent stuff, although I took a rather slow 1.40 to get up, mindful of the fact that the mighty Glandon lay in wait on the other side of the valley! The descent was, as expected, stunning. Quite technical and twisting with all the hairpins, but absolutely exhilarating with superb views in front. Through La Chambre then across to St Etienne on the other side of the Maurienne valley for a quick picnic lunch of pizza, ham and cheese, en famille, 1k up the Glandon. Then it was straight onto the second monster climb of the day: the Glandon, with a similar set of vital statistics to the Madeleine (ie over 20k constant climbing, 1600m of ascent!). It was now hot, and the lower section of the climb is only partially wooded. It was a desperate battle to find my rhythm at first, but eventually I got my second wind from the food and ploughed up towards the village and a very welcome 1.5k easy section. This was the only relaxed riding all day: just gently inclining. Then came the finale, up to a dramatic amphitheatre, with the best scenery of the day: a river valley left and towering rock walls and pinnacles above. Stupendous stuff, although marred slightly as I was soon attacked by a swarm of bees. One stung my back through the shirt, not too bad, but another got under my helmet and stung my bald pate. Not very pleasant as it buzzed around angrily below the helmet looking to strike again. However, it gave me the adrenalin surge I needed! Above, the road rears up into the infamous final 2k section of steep hairpins. Kate refused to drive, so I soldiered on in intense heat and a fair amount of discomfort (a combination of throbbing bee stings, tired legs and aching buttocks) to the col. I descended back to drive the family up the col! Then, after enjoying the stunning views back to the pleasingly distant Madeleine, indulged in the truly spectacular descent from the Croix de Fer down towards the amazing Lac de Grand Maison. This was fast and memorable, but leads to a brief climb before a perfect gentle contour above the lake leads to another plummeting and very fast descent. Above lurks an agonisingly painful final climb before another very long descent past Vaujany to Lac de Verney and the more familiar territory of the Oisans valley. Harder than my day over the Izoard and Vars in 2011 - 45k uphill with 11,000 feet of climbing.
Thursday, July 24, 2014
Jura road cycling
Road Cycling: Cote des Rousses (Col de la Faucille), Jura
Distance/climb: 20k/500m
As was the case yesterday, this was not part of the schedule, but I realised my plans were too ambitious as we drove across the Jura in heavy rain and downscaled to this poor relation - the easy side of the Col de la Faucille. I had wanted to go up Semnoz from Annecy but realised I would just have to incorporate a short ride onto our onward route with Kate driving. I set off from the rather grim valley bottom town of Morez, in dank weather, with a steepish side road leading onto the road up the Cote des Rousses. The Rousses would make an ideal introduction to the bigger climbs, as it is fairly long (10k or so) but gentle throughout. Sadly, however, it is marred by heavy traffic: inevitably, as it is the main road through the Jura to Geneva. Indeed, we drove over it when the children were tiny infants ten years ago. In effect, the ride to Les Rousses represents the easier northern ascent of the Col de la Faucille above Gex and Geneva and, as such, it is a fairly frequent addition to the Tour. Low rumbles of thunder, tendrils of mist, drizzle and wet roads characterised my ascent, for which I was able to stay in the bigger ring throughout. Nice scenery, with alpine meadows and cowbells heralding our arrival into the real mountains higher up the climb. I continued some way up the very gentle slopes beyond Les Rousses but the rain got heavier here, and this section to the top of the Col de la Faucille is little more than a 'false flat' anyway.
Distance/climb: 20k/500m
As was the case yesterday, this was not part of the schedule, but I realised my plans were too ambitious as we drove across the Jura in heavy rain and downscaled to this poor relation - the easy side of the Col de la Faucille. I had wanted to go up Semnoz from Annecy but realised I would just have to incorporate a short ride onto our onward route with Kate driving. I set off from the rather grim valley bottom town of Morez, in dank weather, with a steepish side road leading onto the road up the Cote des Rousses. The Rousses would make an ideal introduction to the bigger climbs, as it is fairly long (10k or so) but gentle throughout. Sadly, however, it is marred by heavy traffic: inevitably, as it is the main road through the Jura to Geneva. Indeed, we drove over it when the children were tiny infants ten years ago. In effect, the ride to Les Rousses represents the easier northern ascent of the Col de la Faucille above Gex and Geneva and, as such, it is a fairly frequent addition to the Tour. Low rumbles of thunder, tendrils of mist, drizzle and wet roads characterised my ascent, for which I was able to stay in the bigger ring throughout. Nice scenery, with alpine meadows and cowbells heralding our arrival into the real mountains higher up the climb. I continued some way up the very gentle slopes beyond Les Rousses but the rain got heavier here, and this section to the top of the Col de la Faucille is little more than a 'false flat' anyway.
Wednesday, July 23, 2014
Vosges road cycling
Road Cycling: Colmar-Wintzenheim-Cote de Cinq Chateaux-Ingersheim-Colmar (Vosges, Alsace)
Distance: 40k/500m
It would have been nice to have taken in the bigger Vosges climbs like the Grand Ballon, and that had indeed been my ambitious plan, but after a lengthy drive through gorgeous Alsatian villages time for a pre-dinner ride was limited. As a result, this was a very short outing but also a rather complex one - to the point that I'm not quite sure where I went! But after riding out from the centre of Colmar, some combination of the three villages of Ingersheim, Wintzenheim and Wettolsheim led me to the base of the Cote de Cinq Chateaux above Wintzenheim. This was taken by the Tour last week, and made an excellent little climb of 7k or so. After a very stressful drive from Belgium and a tricky ride out of the centre of Colmar it was a wonderful balm to enter the tranquil woods of the Vosges. The climb was a good mildy sustained effort and an excellent low-key aperitif for what I hoped would be a big day in the Alps on Friday. These Vosges climbs have a distinctive atmosphere of their own, thickly wooded with the occasional glimpse of side valleys and distant hills. Slovak graffiti for Sagan was interspersed with interesting Alsatian separatist slogans on the road.The gradient on the Cinq Chateaux stays at a fairly constant 7% or so, with numerous hairpins, so it is never too taking. The weather was humid and sunny, but not overly hot. After reaching the summit, I descended down to Ingersheim and along an unpleasantly busy main road to beautiful Colmar and a stereotypical Alsatian meal of quiche, choucroute, munster and pinot blanc.
Distance: 40k/500m
It would have been nice to have taken in the bigger Vosges climbs like the Grand Ballon, and that had indeed been my ambitious plan, but after a lengthy drive through gorgeous Alsatian villages time for a pre-dinner ride was limited. As a result, this was a very short outing but also a rather complex one - to the point that I'm not quite sure where I went! But after riding out from the centre of Colmar, some combination of the three villages of Ingersheim, Wintzenheim and Wettolsheim led me to the base of the Cote de Cinq Chateaux above Wintzenheim. This was taken by the Tour last week, and made an excellent little climb of 7k or so. After a very stressful drive from Belgium and a tricky ride out of the centre of Colmar it was a wonderful balm to enter the tranquil woods of the Vosges. The climb was a good mildy sustained effort and an excellent low-key aperitif for what I hoped would be a big day in the Alps on Friday. These Vosges climbs have a distinctive atmosphere of their own, thickly wooded with the occasional glimpse of side valleys and distant hills. Slovak graffiti for Sagan was interspersed with interesting Alsatian separatist slogans on the road.The gradient on the Cinq Chateaux stays at a fairly constant 7% or so, with numerous hairpins, so it is never too taking. The weather was humid and sunny, but not overly hot. After reaching the summit, I descended down to Ingersheim and along an unpleasantly busy main road to beautiful Colmar and a stereotypical Alsatian meal of quiche, choucroute, munster and pinot blanc.
Tuesday, July 22, 2014
Ardennes road cycling
Road Cycling: Huy-Mur de Huy, La Roche en Ardenne-Col de Haussire (Ardennes, Belgium)
Distance: 40k
The legendary Mur de Huy is the climax of the Fleche Wallonne, a spring classic in the Walloon Ardennes that is one of my favourite races. As we were passing en route to Arlon, I took the bike for a spin round the town and along the Meuse river. Some steep cobbles were a nice reminder of April's Tour of Flanders and led up to the right turn on to the Mur de Huy. This is hallowed turf: a steepish but comfortable initial section leads up to the infamous hairpin bend which ramps up to 25% on the left-hand side. Out of the saddle, I pushed on through the bend. The angle eases slightly but the hill stays relentlessly steep - punishing weakening cyclists on the pro race - until it reaches the chapel at the top. The 'Huy' logo is painted all the way up the route: great to add this iconic Walloon climb to the Flemish classic climbs I enjoyed so much in April. After lunch, we drove through lovely wooded hills to Roche en Ardenne, the Belgian Betws y Coed. After a walk round the town, I cycled along more cobbles to begin the Col de Haussire, ranked as Belgium's hardest climb. That is a fairly relative descriptor - as it just seemed a bit longer (6 or 7k) than the short but viciously steep climbs that feature on the Spring Classics. The Koppenburg, Muur, Patterberg and Mur de Huy all seemed harder to me, albeit far shorter. Still, it was a delightful quiet ascent in warm evening sunshine. It goes up cobbles then a steep tarmac street reminiscent of the famous St Roche on Liege-Bastogne-Liege, then curves very steeply left through dappled woodland to a church and short descent. Then more climbing to a final dip before a long 3k drag up a poorly surfaced road, beautifully tranquil, to the wooded summit.
Distance: 40k
The legendary Mur de Huy is the climax of the Fleche Wallonne, a spring classic in the Walloon Ardennes that is one of my favourite races. As we were passing en route to Arlon, I took the bike for a spin round the town and along the Meuse river. Some steep cobbles were a nice reminder of April's Tour of Flanders and led up to the right turn on to the Mur de Huy. This is hallowed turf: a steepish but comfortable initial section leads up to the infamous hairpin bend which ramps up to 25% on the left-hand side. Out of the saddle, I pushed on through the bend. The angle eases slightly but the hill stays relentlessly steep - punishing weakening cyclists on the pro race - until it reaches the chapel at the top. The 'Huy' logo is painted all the way up the route: great to add this iconic Walloon climb to the Flemish classic climbs I enjoyed so much in April. After lunch, we drove through lovely wooded hills to Roche en Ardenne, the Belgian Betws y Coed. After a walk round the town, I cycled along more cobbles to begin the Col de Haussire, ranked as Belgium's hardest climb. That is a fairly relative descriptor - as it just seemed a bit longer (6 or 7k) than the short but viciously steep climbs that feature on the Spring Classics. The Koppenburg, Muur, Patterberg and Mur de Huy all seemed harder to me, albeit far shorter. Still, it was a delightful quiet ascent in warm evening sunshine. It goes up cobbles then a steep tarmac street reminiscent of the famous St Roche on Liege-Bastogne-Liege, then curves very steeply left through dappled woodland to a church and short descent. Then more climbing to a final dip before a long 3k drag up a poorly surfaced road, beautifully tranquil, to the wooded summit.
Saturday, July 19, 2014
Waun Fach fell race
Race: Waun Fach fell race (11.2k/610m)
Time/Position: 54.54 (4th from 50 [1st V40])
Quite unexpectedly, the descent down Y Grib (the 'Dragon's Back') turned into one of the best mountain running experiences I've ever had in 300+ races: all this from a little race in the Black Mountains with entries taken for £3 in a barn (infinitely preferable to the increasingly commercialised Snowdon race on the same day). I thought I'd been everywhere in the Welsh mountains, north and south, but I'd never been on this final ridge: the descent was superb. The race starts well, too, leaving Pengenffordd by the road and going up the bridleway through Rhiw Trumau to gain the main ridge. I've only been across the Black Mountains once or twice, so was pleased that the forecast torrential rain was passing us by. The ridge gives superb running, fast and relentless, over the steep forepeak of Pen Trumau and up into the mist to gain the second checkpoint on the summit of Waun Fach at 811m. I was feeling tired on the climb, my calves were very stiff after two days solid rock climbing, but as soon as I hit the contouring path from Waun Fach I felt far better and picked up the speed to Pen y Manllwyn. Here the mist peeled away revealing the superb descent ridge plummeting down to the valley over several sub-peaks. Fantastic stuff. Three leaders were out of sight ahead: but I just held on to fourth place up the amusing sting in the tail (a final climb back up to the finish on top of the ancient Craig Dinas hill fort). A small group of North Walians (Huw, Vic, Steve) turned out for this - the third fixture in this year's Welsh Champs, and a thoroughly enjoyable day was had by all. Beer and chips in Church Stretton broke the long journey home.
Time/Position: 54.54 (4th from 50 [1st V40])
Quite unexpectedly, the descent down Y Grib (the 'Dragon's Back') turned into one of the best mountain running experiences I've ever had in 300+ races: all this from a little race in the Black Mountains with entries taken for £3 in a barn (infinitely preferable to the increasingly commercialised Snowdon race on the same day). I thought I'd been everywhere in the Welsh mountains, north and south, but I'd never been on this final ridge: the descent was superb. The race starts well, too, leaving Pengenffordd by the road and going up the bridleway through Rhiw Trumau to gain the main ridge. I've only been across the Black Mountains once or twice, so was pleased that the forecast torrential rain was passing us by. The ridge gives superb running, fast and relentless, over the steep forepeak of Pen Trumau and up into the mist to gain the second checkpoint on the summit of Waun Fach at 811m. I was feeling tired on the climb, my calves were very stiff after two days solid rock climbing, but as soon as I hit the contouring path from Waun Fach I felt far better and picked up the speed to Pen y Manllwyn. Here the mist peeled away revealing the superb descent ridge plummeting down to the valley over several sub-peaks. Fantastic stuff. Three leaders were out of sight ahead: but I just held on to fourth place up the amusing sting in the tail (a final climb back up to the finish on top of the ancient Craig Dinas hill fort). A small group of North Walians (Huw, Vic, Steve) turned out for this - the third fixture in this year's Welsh Champs, and a thoroughly enjoyable day was had by all. Beer and chips in Church Stretton broke the long journey home.
Friday, July 18, 2014
Dinas Mot climbing
Crag: Dinas Mot, Nant Peris
Routes: Diagonal (HVS 5a,5a,5a,4c:led p.1), The Cracks (HS 4a,4b,4a,4c:led p.1,3)
One of the all-time Welsh classics, Diagonal has been a glaring gap in my climbing CV for years. Sadly, given my lack of climbing recently I was in no position to lead the key pitch, but I did lead the first 5a pitch. This goes between two pinnacles to traverse enjoyably past a flake up to a crack behind a pinnacle. A huge sling on this, then a lovely delicate traverse across to a small stance. The next pitch is very good - excellent moves on small holds to a nut slot, then an exciting traverse on undercuts below the obvious overhang before a tough finishing groove. I found it fairly easy apart from the last move, a delicate bridge. A small stance in a great position. The third pitch is what this route is all about: a simply stunning piece of climbing up an immaculate steep slab. A delicate traverse leads to a series of delightfully elegant moves up a vague groove on perfectly positioned small pockets and positive little holds. I barely noticed the famous mantel shelf: it was all absorbing and excellent. Incredibly we found the entire route more or less dry: incredible because it had rained very heavily all night and much of the morning. The final pitch was a bit damp, mind, and despite the fact that it is theoretically the easiest pitch (technically) on the route, most climbers would (I imagine) find it the hardest. I certainly did in my weak current state. A dynamic and very strenuous initial layback leads to a ledge and rest. Then comes a desperate finish, using jams on the left and an ungainly bridge to gain the top: it looks short and innocuous from below but really delivers a classic sting in the tail (in common with virtually all the other classic routes on this crag!). The usual tricky ab down a very wet Western Gully, before we headed up the Cracks (one of the first big routes I did in Snowdonia, 1991 perhaps?). I merged the first two pitches, which give enjoyable slabby climbing up to a final crack. A traverse (wet today) leads to a move up a steepening, then the crack left of the obvious corner taken by Lorraine (which we did by mistake in our youth). I led a short third up the tricky move off the huge pinnacle, and Vic led the nice crack and final awkward (infamous) mantel. Tiring now, we abbed down the drier (but now alarmingly debris-filled) Eastern gully, and tried to get some rest before tomorrow's Welsh Champs fell race in South Wales!
Routes: Diagonal (HVS 5a,5a,5a,4c:led p.1), The Cracks (HS 4a,4b,4a,4c:led p.1,3)
One of the all-time Welsh classics, Diagonal has been a glaring gap in my climbing CV for years. Sadly, given my lack of climbing recently I was in no position to lead the key pitch, but I did lead the first 5a pitch. This goes between two pinnacles to traverse enjoyably past a flake up to a crack behind a pinnacle. A huge sling on this, then a lovely delicate traverse across to a small stance. The next pitch is very good - excellent moves on small holds to a nut slot, then an exciting traverse on undercuts below the obvious overhang before a tough finishing groove. I found it fairly easy apart from the last move, a delicate bridge. A small stance in a great position. The third pitch is what this route is all about: a simply stunning piece of climbing up an immaculate steep slab. A delicate traverse leads to a series of delightfully elegant moves up a vague groove on perfectly positioned small pockets and positive little holds. I barely noticed the famous mantel shelf: it was all absorbing and excellent. Incredibly we found the entire route more or less dry: incredible because it had rained very heavily all night and much of the morning. The final pitch was a bit damp, mind, and despite the fact that it is theoretically the easiest pitch (technically) on the route, most climbers would (I imagine) find it the hardest. I certainly did in my weak current state. A dynamic and very strenuous initial layback leads to a ledge and rest. Then comes a desperate finish, using jams on the left and an ungainly bridge to gain the top: it looks short and innocuous from below but really delivers a classic sting in the tail (in common with virtually all the other classic routes on this crag!). The usual tricky ab down a very wet Western Gully, before we headed up the Cracks (one of the first big routes I did in Snowdonia, 1991 perhaps?). I merged the first two pitches, which give enjoyable slabby climbing up to a final crack. A traverse (wet today) leads to a move up a steepening, then the crack left of the obvious corner taken by Lorraine (which we did by mistake in our youth). I led a short third up the tricky move off the huge pinnacle, and Vic led the nice crack and final awkward (infamous) mantel. Tiring now, we abbed down the drier (but now alarmingly debris-filled) Eastern gully, and tried to get some rest before tomorrow's Welsh Champs fell race in South Wales!
Thursday, July 17, 2014
Moelwyns climbing
Crag: Clogwyn yr Oen, Moelwynion
Routes: Crossover (HS 4b,4b:led p.1), Pinky (VS 4b, 4c:led p.1), Saline Solution (HVS 5b:sec)
Crag: Clogwyn y Bustach, Moelwynion
Routes: Flake Wall (HVS 5a:sec)
An opportunity to enjoy some of the more esoteric routes in the Moelwynion. I've climbed on these crags a lot over the years, and have done most of the classics at HVS and under. But a few gaps remained, and it is always good for boosting confidence: with its solid rock, easy climbing and good protection. As I've only led a handful of pitches all year, I began with Crossover, which takes the counter line to the neat HS of Orange Outang, done a few years ago. A clean groove led up to a wet section (not surprisingly, after lots of rain yesterday). This gave slightly dirty climbing up a steeper diagonal crack (taking me up most of pitch 2 at 4b). I belayed on a small ledge and Vic led a short but steep final wall which leads to scrambling. Not a bad route, but probably only worthwhile if you've done everything else! After a bite, I led the superb first pitch of Pinky in hot sunshine. I last did this 21 years ago. It is quite delightful: a slab of rough rock, steep at first then gently inclining and dotted with deliciously positive pockets. I thoroughly enjoyed picking my way up the slab, just what I needed. The pitch is long (almost 40m) and ends with a short steep wall: this takes a little thought but a neat move on small holds gains the stance. Vic then led the excellent short pitch of Saline Solution, which takes the headwall left of Pinky's second pitch crack. This gets very little traffic, I suspect, but was a perfectly clean and superbly rough sheet of Moelwyn rock. Typical Moelwyn climbing too: little pockets and small ledges and flakes. Good moves throughout, with a tricky 5b crux moving left then right to gain finishing jugs. Slightly overgraded, but a neat pitch. We then traversed right and finished up the last section of the Pinky crack (the surprisingly steep crux). After lunch, we headed up to the infrequently visited Clogwyn y Bustach - the unheralded and secretive fourth Moelwyn crag. In fact, it's one of the most impressive pieces of rock of the group: short but perfectly formed. Flake Crack is the obvious line of the crag and gives a superb, yet unheralded pitch: varied and hugely enjoyable. The eponymous flake goes delicately to a step across to the main face. Then a steep groove, climbable on the outside up good holds, leads to a lovely traverse. This looks hard from below, but hidden ledges make it fairly simple. Cracking stuff, and absorbing to second too. An easy rough wall to finish, recuperating with a pint in the Foelas.
Routes: Crossover (HS 4b,4b:led p.1), Pinky (VS 4b, 4c:led p.1), Saline Solution (HVS 5b:sec)
Crag: Clogwyn y Bustach, Moelwynion
Routes: Flake Wall (HVS 5a:sec)
An opportunity to enjoy some of the more esoteric routes in the Moelwynion. I've climbed on these crags a lot over the years, and have done most of the classics at HVS and under. But a few gaps remained, and it is always good for boosting confidence: with its solid rock, easy climbing and good protection. As I've only led a handful of pitches all year, I began with Crossover, which takes the counter line to the neat HS of Orange Outang, done a few years ago. A clean groove led up to a wet section (not surprisingly, after lots of rain yesterday). This gave slightly dirty climbing up a steeper diagonal crack (taking me up most of pitch 2 at 4b). I belayed on a small ledge and Vic led a short but steep final wall which leads to scrambling. Not a bad route, but probably only worthwhile if you've done everything else! After a bite, I led the superb first pitch of Pinky in hot sunshine. I last did this 21 years ago. It is quite delightful: a slab of rough rock, steep at first then gently inclining and dotted with deliciously positive pockets. I thoroughly enjoyed picking my way up the slab, just what I needed. The pitch is long (almost 40m) and ends with a short steep wall: this takes a little thought but a neat move on small holds gains the stance. Vic then led the excellent short pitch of Saline Solution, which takes the headwall left of Pinky's second pitch crack. This gets very little traffic, I suspect, but was a perfectly clean and superbly rough sheet of Moelwyn rock. Typical Moelwyn climbing too: little pockets and small ledges and flakes. Good moves throughout, with a tricky 5b crux moving left then right to gain finishing jugs. Slightly overgraded, but a neat pitch. We then traversed right and finished up the last section of the Pinky crack (the surprisingly steep crux). After lunch, we headed up to the infrequently visited Clogwyn y Bustach - the unheralded and secretive fourth Moelwyn crag. In fact, it's one of the most impressive pieces of rock of the group: short but perfectly formed. Flake Crack is the obvious line of the crag and gives a superb, yet unheralded pitch: varied and hugely enjoyable. The eponymous flake goes delicately to a step across to the main face. Then a steep groove, climbable on the outside up good holds, leads to a lovely traverse. This looks hard from below, but hidden ledges make it fairly simple. Cracking stuff, and absorbing to second too. An easy rough wall to finish, recuperating with a pint in the Foelas.
Wednesday, July 16, 2014
The Druid fell race
Race: The Druid (5m/1200ft)
Time/Position: 36.04 (6th from 90)
Perhaps the best of the summer evening Clwydian races, but it has been three years since I've been able to race it. My time was almost a minute slower this year than 2011, yet conditions were near perfect: dry underfoot, warm but not too hot. Spent most of the race with Jim from Helsby, going past him after the steps up to the summit of Foel Fenlli, staying clear for the very narrow and always superb descent along the rim of the hillfort poised high above the Vale of Clwyd, then losing out to his superior pace on the main descent back to Llanferres. Once again finished at the back of a small group of runners, lacking the speed to pick it up at the end.
Time/Position: 36.04 (6th from 90)
Perhaps the best of the summer evening Clwydian races, but it has been three years since I've been able to race it. My time was almost a minute slower this year than 2011, yet conditions were near perfect: dry underfoot, warm but not too hot. Spent most of the race with Jim from Helsby, going past him after the steps up to the summit of Foel Fenlli, staying clear for the very narrow and always superb descent along the rim of the hillfort poised high above the Vale of Clwyd, then losing out to his superior pace on the main descent back to Llanferres. Once again finished at the back of a small group of runners, lacking the speed to pick it up at the end.
Saturday, July 12, 2014
Tal y Fan fell race
Race: Tal y Fan fell race (13k/2600ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1.15.01 (5th from 44)
There are at least two other races (Gladstone and Penmaenmawr) that use some of the same paths round the northern fringe of the Carneddau, but I think this race makes the best use of the terrain: a really enjoyable and runnable event. After a family morning in Bodnant, I joined a small field leaving the Rowen village carnival to take in the brutally steep lane that heads past the hostel to join the old bridleway leading past the farm house to the normal route up Tal y Fan from below Bwlch y Ddaefaen. I reached the summit with a small group of other runners in around 35 minutes, then concentrated on staying with them for the long but gradual descent down to the stone circle at Cae Coch. This is wonderful terrain, wild but surprisingly runnable and fast in these relatively dry conditions. Once we hit the coastal path, with its great views over Allt Fawr and the Orme, I was able to push on a bit and soon found myself up with a group of four runners. We were all well behind Jez, who won easily, but well ahead of everyone else. At times, I moved up to 4th and then 3rd as the race takes in some very familiar tracks (the ancient paths above Llangelynin Old Church being some of my favourite places anywhere). But once we regained the steep tarmac descent I lacked the leg speed and sprint finish (as ever!) to pull back any places: ending at the back of the four-man group.
Time/Position: 1.15.01 (5th from 44)
There are at least two other races (Gladstone and Penmaenmawr) that use some of the same paths round the northern fringe of the Carneddau, but I think this race makes the best use of the terrain: a really enjoyable and runnable event. After a family morning in Bodnant, I joined a small field leaving the Rowen village carnival to take in the brutally steep lane that heads past the hostel to join the old bridleway leading past the farm house to the normal route up Tal y Fan from below Bwlch y Ddaefaen. I reached the summit with a small group of other runners in around 35 minutes, then concentrated on staying with them for the long but gradual descent down to the stone circle at Cae Coch. This is wonderful terrain, wild but surprisingly runnable and fast in these relatively dry conditions. Once we hit the coastal path, with its great views over Allt Fawr and the Orme, I was able to push on a bit and soon found myself up with a group of four runners. We were all well behind Jez, who won easily, but well ahead of everyone else. At times, I moved up to 4th and then 3rd as the race takes in some very familiar tracks (the ancient paths above Llangelynin Old Church being some of my favourite places anywhere). But once we regained the steep tarmac descent I lacked the leg speed and sprint finish (as ever!) to pull back any places: ending at the back of the four-man group.
Friday, July 11, 2014
Craig Dinas climbing
Crag: Craig Dinas, Betws y Coed
Routes: Gull's Nest Crack (S 4a:led), The Nurgler (VS 4b:sec), Main Wall Climb (VS 4c:sec)
The final part of a long but very intermittent campaign to visit the most obscure crags around the Lledr and Conwy valleys. As is often the case, this venue's unpopularity is slightly baffling. It is quite impressive, faces south, has good rock reminiscent of nearby (vastly more popular) Carreg Alltrem and is only a short walk from the car park. But a bushwacking ascent through head-high ferns and thorn bushes confirms that not many people come here. The classic of the crag is The Nurgler, a VS that takes a good line right up the most impressive part of the cliff. Gull's Nest Crack, my lead, is an earlier climb up the crag's most obvious feature, and also forms the first pitch of The Nurgler. It's a strong line - a wide and fairly steep crack between the main face and a semi-detached pinnacle. Some vegetation, but good rock and nice climbing. The second pitch weaves up the face via a fun traverse over two ribs: this enables an obvious overlap to be overcome. Then comes a bit of vegetation before a slabby and exposed traverse leads to an obvious finishing groove further left. Nice climb. We abbed off and climbed Main Wall in temperatures nudging into the high 20s: felt like one of our Provencal trips. Main Wall Climb felt a little like a first ascent. Sadly the rope jammed as Vic pulled them in, so in effect I was soloing for the first 20ft - which contains the hardest sequence of moves on the route, steep and thought-provoking. I released the rope, then enjoyed a juggy romp up to a tricky move through a bottomless groove. Another good climb, with more opportunities to savour the superb views (some of the best in Eryri) down the Lledr and across to Siabod, although our very limited time (2.5 hours) was now over.
Routes: Gull's Nest Crack (S 4a:led), The Nurgler (VS 4b:sec), Main Wall Climb (VS 4c:sec)
The final part of a long but very intermittent campaign to visit the most obscure crags around the Lledr and Conwy valleys. As is often the case, this venue's unpopularity is slightly baffling. It is quite impressive, faces south, has good rock reminiscent of nearby (vastly more popular) Carreg Alltrem and is only a short walk from the car park. But a bushwacking ascent through head-high ferns and thorn bushes confirms that not many people come here. The classic of the crag is The Nurgler, a VS that takes a good line right up the most impressive part of the cliff. Gull's Nest Crack, my lead, is an earlier climb up the crag's most obvious feature, and also forms the first pitch of The Nurgler. It's a strong line - a wide and fairly steep crack between the main face and a semi-detached pinnacle. Some vegetation, but good rock and nice climbing. The second pitch weaves up the face via a fun traverse over two ribs: this enables an obvious overlap to be overcome. Then comes a bit of vegetation before a slabby and exposed traverse leads to an obvious finishing groove further left. Nice climb. We abbed off and climbed Main Wall in temperatures nudging into the high 20s: felt like one of our Provencal trips. Main Wall Climb felt a little like a first ascent. Sadly the rope jammed as Vic pulled them in, so in effect I was soloing for the first 20ft - which contains the hardest sequence of moves on the route, steep and thought-provoking. I released the rope, then enjoyed a juggy romp up to a tricky move through a bottomless groove. Another good climb, with more opportunities to savour the superb views (some of the best in Eryri) down the Lledr and across to Siabod, although our very limited time (2.5 hours) was now over.
Wednesday, July 09, 2014
Penbarras bike loop
Road cycling: HK-Mold-Nercwys-Maeshafn-Bwlch Penbarras-Llanferres-Grianrhyd-HK
Distance: 55k
A short final training ride before taking the bike to the Ardennes, the Vosges and the Alps. Far too short, really, but time was limited. I took in the new Flintshire 10k route from Mold up through Nercwys then up the very steep double climb to Maeshafn. I then dropped down to Cadole and took in Bwlch Penbarras (for the third time in three days) - cool and windy. Met Rich at the Druid for a pint and sandwiches, then headed back (now in warm sunshine) via Llanarmon, Grianrhyd and Treuddyn.
Distance: 55k
A short final training ride before taking the bike to the Ardennes, the Vosges and the Alps. Far too short, really, but time was limited. I took in the new Flintshire 10k route from Mold up through Nercwys then up the very steep double climb to Maeshafn. I then dropped down to Cadole and took in Bwlch Penbarras (for the third time in three days) - cool and windy. Met Rich at the Druid for a pint and sandwiches, then headed back (now in warm sunshine) via Llanarmon, Grianrhyd and Treuddyn.
Tuesday, July 08, 2014
Buckley handicap
Race: Buckley trail handicap (4.5m)
Time: 27.39
A nice concept, and one the club hasn't done for a number of years. John organised us all by time, with me setting off second to last - 30 seconds behind Steve T and 30 seconds ahead of Jez. Obviously, the idea is for everyone to finish at more or less the same time after the 'handicaps' are applied - and this was more or less the case. A good 4.5 mile off-road trail route, flat out round the hilly fireroads on the side of Moel Famau. Starting towards the back has the advantage that you are not being chased down (except by Jez!) but the disadvantage that you inevitably start too fast. I caught Steve as we headed back west towards the ridge, then went past a few others to finish 4th with the 2nd fastest time (ie not improving my starting position). Then came a pleasant pint in the Collie to escape the horse flies.
Time: 27.39
A nice concept, and one the club hasn't done for a number of years. John organised us all by time, with me setting off second to last - 30 seconds behind Steve T and 30 seconds ahead of Jez. Obviously, the idea is for everyone to finish at more or less the same time after the 'handicaps' are applied - and this was more or less the case. A good 4.5 mile off-road trail route, flat out round the hilly fireroads on the side of Moel Famau. Starting towards the back has the advantage that you are not being chased down (except by Jez!) but the disadvantage that you inevitably start too fast. I caught Steve as we headed back west towards the ridge, then went past a few others to finish 4th with the 2nd fastest time (ie not improving my starting position). Then came a pleasant pint in the Collie to escape the horse flies.
Saturday, July 05, 2014
Moel Siabod fell race
Race: Moel Siabod (9km/2300ft)
Time/Position: 56.01 (15th from 111)
One of those events I have never got round to doing, partly because I am often away on holiday this time of year. I've always wanted to try to get a decent time for this classic up-and-down route, though, as it leaves Capel Curig from the bridge by the A5, touches the cairn and heads straight back down. It was a beautiful day after early rain - deep blue skies and fluffy clouds, warm. I climbed reasonably well, touching the cairn in 37 minutes. Sadly, I descended like an invalid and lost well over a minute on most of those nearby as I reached the summit. Superb views of the Snowdon group, but not much time to enjoy them as I began my slow descent. My ankle still has a weakness after Jura, and I went over on it immediately in the boulder field near the summit. As a result I found it hard to relax and let go, even on the grassy descent lower down. I lost a couple of places and took a slow 19 minutes to get back to Capel. A dip in the river, followed by superb goulash and sandwiches on the sun-drenched showfield after the race.
Time/Position: 56.01 (15th from 111)
One of those events I have never got round to doing, partly because I am often away on holiday this time of year. I've always wanted to try to get a decent time for this classic up-and-down route, though, as it leaves Capel Curig from the bridge by the A5, touches the cairn and heads straight back down. It was a beautiful day after early rain - deep blue skies and fluffy clouds, warm. I climbed reasonably well, touching the cairn in 37 minutes. Sadly, I descended like an invalid and lost well over a minute on most of those nearby as I reached the summit. Superb views of the Snowdon group, but not much time to enjoy them as I began my slow descent. My ankle still has a weakness after Jura, and I went over on it immediately in the boulder field near the summit. As a result I found it hard to relax and let go, even on the grassy descent lower down. I lost a couple of places and took a slow 19 minutes to get back to Capel. A dip in the river, followed by superb goulash and sandwiches on the sun-drenched showfield after the race.
Wednesday, July 02, 2014
Maeshafn climbing
Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Shattered Crack (S:sh), The Arete (VS 5a:sh), Sling (HS 4a:sh), Dandylion (HS 4b:sh), Elephant Crack (S 4a:sh), Rambler (HS 4a:sol)
An early morning run in warm sunshine up Moel Findeg then down to Maeshafn to pick up the original Beast race route. Up to Bryn Alyn then back via the Big Covert. I picked up my sac of climbing gear and extended the run (burdened now!) down to the crag for a few shunted routes. I've done all these routes dozens of times but just went up and down a few old favourites before a short bouldering session and jog back to the village.
Routes: Shattered Crack (S:sh), The Arete (VS 5a:sh), Sling (HS 4a:sh), Dandylion (HS 4b:sh), Elephant Crack (S 4a:sh), Rambler (HS 4a:sol)
An early morning run in warm sunshine up Moel Findeg then down to Maeshafn to pick up the original Beast race route. Up to Bryn Alyn then back via the Big Covert. I picked up my sac of climbing gear and extended the run (burdened now!) down to the crag for a few shunted routes. I've done all these routes dozens of times but just went up and down a few old favourites before a short bouldering session and jog back to the village.
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