Moelwyns climbing

Crag: Clogwyn yr Oen, Moelwynion
Routes: Crossover (HS 4b,4b:led p.1), Pinky (VS 4b, 4c:led p.1), Saline Solution (HVS 5b:sec)
Crag: Clogwyn y Bustach, Moelwynion
Routes: Flake Wall (HVS 5a:sec)
An opportunity to enjoy some of the more esoteric routes in the Moelwynion. I've climbed on these crags a lot over the years, and have done most of the classics at HVS and under. But a few gaps remained, and it is always good for boosting confidence: with its solid rock, easy climbing and good protection. As I've only led a handful of pitches all year, I began with Crossover, which takes the counter line to the neat HS of Orange Outang, done a few years ago. A clean groove led up to a wet section (not surprisingly, after lots of rain yesterday). This gave slightly dirty climbing up a steeper diagonal crack (taking me up most of pitch 2 at 4b). I belayed on a small ledge and Vic led a short but steep final wall which leads to scrambling. Not a bad route, but probably only worthwhile if you've done everything else! After a bite, I led the superb first pitch of Pinky in hot sunshine. I last did this 21 years ago. It is quite delightful: a slab of rough rock, steep at first then gently inclining and dotted with deliciously positive pockets. I thoroughly enjoyed picking my way up the slab, just what I needed. The pitch is long (almost 40m) and ends with a short steep wall: this takes a little thought but a neat move on small holds gains the stance. Vic then led the excellent short pitch of Saline Solution, which takes the headwall left of Pinky's second pitch crack. This gets very little traffic, I suspect, but was a perfectly clean and superbly rough sheet of Moelwyn rock. Typical Moelwyn climbing too: little pockets and small ledges and flakes. Good moves throughout, with a tricky 5b crux moving left then right to gain finishing jugs. Slightly overgraded, but a neat pitch. We then traversed right and finished up the last section of the Pinky crack (the surprisingly steep crux). After lunch, we headed up to the infrequently visited Clogwyn y Bustach - the unheralded and secretive fourth Moelwyn crag. In fact, it's one of the most impressive pieces of rock of the group: short but perfectly formed. Flake Crack is the obvious line of the crag and gives a superb, yet unheralded pitch: varied and hugely enjoyable. The eponymous flake goes delicately to a step across to the main face. Then a steep groove, climbable on the outside up good holds, leads to a lovely traverse. This looks hard from below, but hidden ledges make it fairly simple. Cracking stuff, and absorbing to second too. An easy rough wall to finish, recuperating with a pint in the Foelas.