Pen Trwyn climbing

Crag: Pen Trwyn, Llandudno
Routes: Green Flash (f5+:led), Planned Obsolescence (f6a+:led), Mumbo Jumbo (f6a+:led), Mumbo Jumbo variant (f6a+:sec), Tears as Souvenirs Direct (f6b:sec)
This is not a crag I've visited often over the years: too hard and steep for me. I have done a few routes here and there since the late 80s, but generally come away tired and demoralised. Today was only a slight exception to that rule, although I do feel a tad stronger at present, and we did get at least get a few routes done before the inevitable pump. Green Flash may be the worst route on the Orme, and is not a great warm-up. It heads rightwards over two small overhangs on big but polished holds: short and steep. We moved round to the Mumbo Jumbo area above the bouldering caves, and I led the newly bolted f6a+ line on the far left. This is short, and loose in places, but a better warm up, with a tricky initial move followed by easier climbing. Overgraded - probably 5+ or 6a. Mumbo Jumbo itself is an excellent line, an old E2 5c, now retrobolted, which cunningly weaves round to circumvent some large overhangs. A high first clip is gained after a steep but easy start, then steeper moves gain the orange slab at mid-height. Here the rock changes from soapy and slippery to quite rough pocketed limestone. A traverse right below a small roof leads to the first crux: steeply round the overlap with a pinch-grip. The route then stays steep. I clipped the bolt above the final roof with difficulty, then tried a version of the direct finish at 6b+: using the obvious chalked hold in a very draining position. It didn't really work, and Hayley later did a superb job of unlocking the indirect solution to the final move at 6a+. It goes much further left, then uses small footholds to reach arete holds which allow the roof to be circumvented. Good climb: we did it twice. We then bouldered out the bottom few crux moves of Tears as Souvenirs, a grade harder. Very soapy rock, especially in these hot conditions (beautiful day, 30C, so glad of the shade). This was energy sapping, not clean, and a bit of a battle. In retrospect, not such a good idea after two ascents of Mumbo Jumbo. It meant that we had very little forearm power for the harder routes we tried in the Deep Fix area overlooking the deep blue sea. Stunning conditions though, so we walked down to inspect the Sticky Mix wall above the sea. Clear blue sky, flat calm sea, orange rock: we could have been in the Costa Blanca, or Thailand.

Moel y Gamelin fell race

Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m/2000ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1.23.31 (9th from 49 [2nd V45])
Yet another race where I struggled to maintain any kind of pace and did not enjoy myself. Not bothered about getting slower, but would like to enjoy myself on races again - still waiting for a decent performance in 2015! I felt OK as we climbed Moel y Faen, and in the past I've paced this race quite well. But today I think I used too much energy just keeping a decent pace going over the summits of Gamelin and Morfydd in a strong headwind. A heavy shower made for bracing progress over the final summit, and stayed with us on the long descent over Bwlch y Groes and out over the lonely terrain further west. This long XC section is where I've managed to pick the pace up in the past, but today I just lost energy again and blew (yet again) on the gentle incline back towards the ridge. Then really suffered for the main climb back up the Conquering Hero bridleway to regain the ridge. I crawled back over Gamelin, losing three places as stronger finishers went past. I did get a second wind back over Moel y Faen but the damage was already done.

Maeshafn climbing

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Rambler (HS 4a:led), Wilkinson Sword Edge (VS 4b:led), The Minstrel (E1 5b:sec), Puppy Power (VS 4b:led), Flying Block (E1 5a:sec), Sling (HS 4a:led)
A heavy shower swept in just as we were gearing up at the base of the crag. So I changed plans rapidly and nipped up the easy (and overgraded) Rambler in the rain. I've been visiting this crag since 1988, so then deployed some local knowledge and sneaked off to the sheltered Wilkinson Sword Edge as the rain continued and black clouds swept in over Moel Famau. This route is hidden in the trees, and takes a vague arete of very rough limestone. One tricky steep move up to a huge jug at the start, then easy climbing up a nice flake: shame it's so short! The rain eased a little, so we did the classic E1 line of the Minstrel with rope above: rather polished now. The crag dries quickly, quicker than rock boots, so I led the now dry slab taken by Puppy Power in wet shoes. An intermittent line of thin cracks: nice climbing. I've done all these routes many times before, but it was a good choice today in this weather. Flying Block is a bit of a sandbag: E1 5c would be a more accurate grade. Indeed, a curious feature of Maeshafn is that the easier routes tend to be soft touches, while anything above HVS often seems undergraded. Flying Block has a very hard move after about 10ft, particularly in damp conditions. Very little for the feet, smooth and slippery, and a hard pull over a flake. Above, you are in balance and some nice moves lead less steeply to the top. Hayley and I both failed on the even harder Royal Plume: also polished and greasy, felt at least E2/3 6a. All this hadn't taken long (a short evening visit), and the weather was now clearing completely, so we nipped round to the Amphitheatre for the polished crack line of Sling, which I have done many, many times over the years. I was now fading fast, beginning to feel the after-effects of a 12 mile run over Hope Mountain and Pen Llan y Gwr first thing this morning!

Idwal run

A light mist was hanging just above Llyn y Cwn as I fired up the stove for a horribly early cup of coffee. The tent was down and my bag packed by 5am, as I had to get back home in time to see the kids off to school, and get to the office! I jogged down the path and emerged from the mist as I dropped down to Twll Ddu. From the shores of Llyn Idwal, the mist peeled away from the upper cliff of Glyder Fawr, reflected in the lake. A cloud inversion seemed likely on the ridge, but I had a range of different commitments: it was with some regret that I continued running back to Ogwen cottage and the car. Home by 7am!

Glyderau run and wild camp

Peak: Y Garn
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
An impromptu decision to indulge in a solo wild camp, as close to the summer solstice as was feasible. The day had dawned wet, windy and quite cold, but was starting to clear by the time I left work. After some bouldering (below) there was still a disappointing amount of black cloud around as I started to jog up the Idwal path from Ogwen Cottage at around 6.30pm, but there were signs that it might clear a bit. I made good progress past the slabs and Twll Ddu, and had the entire range to myself, as I'd hoped, as I gained the plateau between Y Garn and Glyder Fawr. I pitched on a perfect flat spot right next to the shore of Llyn y Cwn: a delightful site. I then jogged up Y Garn: sadly rather cold and cloudy, with a hint of drizzle in the air. A few clearances over the Llyn peninsula and the Irish Sea, shafts of sunlight. I went back for my rather spartan evening meal: some pasta on the stove, and a couple of mugs of tea, it was indeed an impromptu camp! I then ambled up to some scrambling on the steeper spurs coming down from Glyder Fawr as the weather started to clear around 9pm. Quite quickly, most of the cloud melted away and I sat in the sunshine near the summit plateau of Glyder Fawr relaxing and looking down to my tent near the lake. A few midges, but nothing too serious, and the temperature dropped as the sky turned lilac. I retired to the sound of grey wagtails and meadow pipits, and read the Sunday paper in bed before dozing off.

Dyffryn Mymbyr bouldering

A quick evening bouldering session before running up to Llyn y Cwn for an impromptu solstice wild camp. I've been here a few times before, always finding the problems quite hard and polished. They were also rather greasy today, after morning rain. I did all the slabby routes first, then the left-hand version of the RAC arete: rather precarious with a polished start. Backside arete is very easy, but pleasant: more like a miniature VS than a boulder problem. Then some particularly enjoyable lines: the V0+ which moves up and right into a hanging groove is steep, positive and quite exciting. Another route at the same grade goes up the steep wall further right via a series of powerful moves on small but positive holds. At the end of the slabby boulder, I did the overhanging arete and the awkward traverse before heading round to Ogwen for the run up to my intended campsite at Llyn y Cwn.

Cwm Pennant Horseshoe fell race

Race: Ras Pedol Cwm Pennant (17m/5600ft/AL)
Peaks: Moel Hebog, Moel yr Ogof, Moel Lefn, Trum y Ddisgyl, Mynydd Tal y Mignedd, Craig Cwm Silyn, Garnedd Goch
Time/Position: 3.19.32 (11th from 36)
The cloudbase was almost down to the valley floor as we set off from a humid Bryncir at the base of this famous and beautiful valley. The field in such conditions was inevitably going to be fairly small: as it clashed with other events, and it was clear that navigation would be a challenge almost from the outset. Peter, Andy and I were looking forward to it. Last year, I had a reasonable run and thought it was a superb new race over some of my favourite hills: finishing just after Simon E in 8th place, well under three hours. A repeat was never likely this year, so I just adopted a steady striding pace up Moel Hebog in thick and humid mist. This was OK, and I found myself running with Noel from Eryri, same as last year, as we descended towards Moel yr Ogof in steady rain and very poor visibility. We followed the wall than ploughed up through the cleft in the rock to the checkpoint on top of the rocky summit of Moel yr Ogof. It was even harder to find the checkpoint on Moel Lefn, and we initially went past it - doubling back for the climb up to the summit. A much bigger error followed, however, as I drifted too far right on a bearing north, descending the wrong side of a spur. As often happens, a small error turned into a big one and we found ourselves well off course, too far east. A giant dogleg ensued (at least the error was quickly obvious) and a wall bisecting the ridge acted as a handrail to gain the path through the quarries to eventually gain Bwlch y Ddwy Elor: visibility dreadful throughout. We'd lost a lot of time, and Andy soon appeared having taken the direct route down from Lefn. He shot up the misty Trum y Ddisgyl to gain the main Nantlle ridge and it was as much as I could do to keep up initially. The highlight of the route comes next: the narrow and sometimes rocky ridge across to Tal y Mignedd. A spectacular clearance gave views down to Nantlle as the mist peeled away from one half of the ridge. Andy and I were equally matched over this section and took a direct scrambling line through the rocks. I went too far right last year from Craig Cwm Silyn, so we careful to stay left and pick up the main path to Garnedd Goch. It was nice to be moving at speed after losing so much time on the descent from Moel Lefn. The descent down Cwm Ciprwth is one of the hardest on any race: a blend of hidden rocks, tussocks and deep heather. No paths until you emerge at the checkpoint at the base of the cwm. From here I pushed on a little and felt quite good on the long road run in: although as I was a full 25 minutes slower than last year, it should have felt fairly comfortable. Wonderful race again.

Man v Horse

Race: Man v Horse Marathon (22m/4000ft)
Time/Position: 3.18.31 (82nd from 657)
This is another one of those classic events missing from my 'CV', but as with the Yorkshire Three Peaks in April I did not cover myself in glory today: just didn't have sufficient mileage in my legs to keep it going towards the end. In fact, the wheels fell off in time-honoured fashion when I still had five (rather distressing) miles to go. Light drizzle as Jez and I waited in Llanwrtyd Wells for the start: my first time here since doing the almost equally legendary Real Ale Wobble mountain bike loop 12 or so years ago. The rain stayed fairly light, but fell continuously all day. As a result, we kept cool but it was very boggy underfoot at times. A nice atmosphere as we left the Neuadd Arms and headed up the Irfon valley. The route is very complex and very varied, but is essentially a giant loop around the valley taking in some fairly wild mountain terrain at times. A sharp climb up a track after a couple of miles set the scene. It was followed by some narrow, boggy tracks high up on the eastern slopes of the valley. I felt pretty good, and went through the first checkpoint well up the field in just over 50 minutes. I was passed by two horses on a long inclining track, but didn't see any more until high up in the hills near Abergwesyn. I continued to feel pretty good through the second checkpoint, and although horses and relay runners were mixed up with the 500 or so doing the full distance, I felt I was well up the field at this point. However, with about five miles to go the distance and difficulty of the terrain began to take its toll: as did my old bugbear, an upset stomach. I hadn't had time to get my usual running food, so forced down a sesame bar which repeated on me very quickly. This reduced me to a walk on an interminable series of forest tracks where I really suffered. From here, it was all downhill - metaphorically if not always literally. Scores of runners, and horses, passed me towards the end, which was rather demoralising. The last couple of miles, through bog, then tarmac, then a deep river crossing, were not very pleasant and reminded me of the way I felt in my early marathons and early attempts at long fell races more than a decade ago.

Craig y Forwyn climbing

Crag: Craig y Forwyn
Routes: Anne (S 4a:led), Larks a Bumbly (HS 4b:led), Kiwi (VS 4b:sec), Arian (HS 4b:led), Arian Direct (HVS 5a:sec), Wall/Superdirect Finish (E1 5b:sec), Golden Gate (D:led)
The 'banned crag' which has always had a kind of mythical status in my mind: my local crag in many ways, but the supposed 'landowner' withdrew consent just before I started climbing in the late 1980s. Vic and I went there five years ago, after it was realised that only part of the crag was 'owned' by the awkward landlord, only to be shouted down from the classic HVS Sangfroid, on what we understood to be a legal part of the cliff by a quite unbelievably unpleasant individual (presumably the chap that claims to own the central section). It was so unpleasant that it's taken us five years to come back, this time to the left-hand section which, again, is not owned by the uncivil one. We had no problems today, which was just a brief taster of the short but enjoyable routes that characterise this section of cliff. Anne was a vegetated and slabby aperitif, up a narrow pillar of rock. We then both led the splendid corner/groove taken by Larks a Bumbly. This looks hard and very steep from below, somewhat reminiscent of Striptease at Tremadog. In reality, it's just a delightfully simple romp. Well protected moves up a superbly juggy, but steep, corner, lead to more jugs and a perfect footledge to sidle left away from the final overhang, to finish up a short arete. Great route, as was its companion Kiwi, a mild VS to its right. Again, this looks like it has an intimidating finish, but this is an illusion. A rising traverse left, below the bulges on big footholds, leads to a move to circumvent the steepness, then a finish trending back right up a steep exit on big holds. Really nice, interesting climbing at the bottom of the grade. Arian is the other classic on this section of crag: rather more polished than the others but again recently cleaned, giving really good climbing. Another interesting line too, up a steep right-trending juggy flake which begs to be climbed. Then a step left gains a short traverse, giving access to a clean groove which leads to the top. Again, solid and varied: no more than 20m, but packing a lot in to a small space! Vic then led the Direct version, which is steep and sustained up to the roof, which needs a butch move to overcome. Inferior to the normal route, I found it quite dusty and unpleasant. I continued up the more technical, nicely contrasting Wall Finish, using the left arete: the sunshine quite hot now, perhaps the hottest day of summer so far. From the crag top, great views over the most tranquil of valleys, very quiet indeed, with the rocks of Llanddulas further left. I had to finish early, so after abbing back down for fifth time, we donned our big sacs and I led out up a pleasant Diff, taking the outside of an obvious chimney, by way of a mountaineering exit route. Nice to sample another tiny slice of the climbing at this crag. It has always felt political to me, and still does: one day we will get access to the real classics!

The Beast

Race: Up the Beast fell race (4.5m/1500ft)
Time/Position: 48.01 (11th from 94)
I've done every one of these races (eight in total) and this is the first time I've finished outside the top ten. I was third overall not so long ago, but can't see that ever happening again. This is partly because I'm getting slower, but partly because I'm convinced everybody else is getting quicker! I was around a minute down on my best time tonight, although slightly quicker than last year: so not too bad given it was my first short fell race since Rhobell Fawr in November. As a result, recent road races made the early tracks through the woods quite comfortable, but the steep climb up the beast reduced me to a striding walk much earlier than previous years. It was a hot, quite humid evening, and the second climb back up Bryn Alyn is always desperately airless and sweaty. I saved some energy over Bryn Alyn in warm sunshine, then I did start to make up a few places, and finished reasonably strongly on the return through the woods.

Holmfirth bouldering

Crag: Holmfirth Cliff
Routes: Arsenic Slab (font3), Devs (V0), Scarface (V0), Bumbachum (V1), Crimp and Pop (font4), Riblet (font5), Left Crack (font3), Right Crack (font3), Problem 11 (font5+), Spiders (font5+), Crystal Crack (font4), Man Utd Arete (font4), Cock Over (font5+), Pocket Wall (V2), Fist-Sized Crack (font3).
Never my favourite discipline, the idea of recording short boulder problems has always struck me as slightly absurd. A few things were different here, however: first, the problems felt more like miniature routes at times; second, many of them were relatively easy; third, I really enjoyed this crag of quarried grit above the famous town of Holmfirth. It was particularly nice to get some fresh air after a day confined to one room in Huddersfield. Some sun peeking through the clouds and nice views out over town and valley as I located and climbed the four short problems on the left-hand slab. Quite delicate, particularly Bumbachum up the featureless middle of the slab. Really enjoyed going up and down the two easy crack lines further right, which felt like miniature grit Severes and warranted several ascents. The line up the middle was a more technical font 5+ on small flat holds, as was the thought-provoking Spiders, which took thin cracks up a greener wall up to a flat hold then escaped left. The routes further right were quite high, particularly Crystal Crack which was a good strong line but surprisingly dirty and vegetated. Further right again, I did numerous routes, including the high but easy Man Utd Arete, the short and intense Over Cock at font 5+, and the more delicate Pocket Wall, which was a good technical route up a pocketed black wall of friable grit but seemed a little overgraded. Various other routes too, but less obvious lines, and it was difficult to remember them all.

Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: Borderline (f6a+:led), Over the Wall (f6a:sec), Checkpoint Charlie (f6b:sec), The Great Escape (f6a:led), Lost Control (f6b:sec), The Fat Controller (S 4a:led)
Almost all these routes feel quite tough for the grade, very tough in some cases, in stark contrast to some of the newly bolted limestone on the coast. The Compact Wall at Trevor is by far the best section of what is a rather scrappy crag, so I went straight for Borderline, a semi-classic on the left of the wall which I have top-roped in the past. It's a very good route, technical and sustained when leading, but with decent rests: it keeps coming at you right up to a second crux at the top. Lovely moves on small positive holds, in delightful warm evening sunshine, lead to a puzzling section at mid-height. I was tempted left by a chalked-up flat hold, but actually the solution lies further to the right. I weighted the bolt for a second as I made the alteration: annoying. Moving right gains a vague groove and easier climbing up to a steep and equally puzzling finish on unhelpful fingery pockets and pinches. I failed on the 6c Margin of Error. Indeed, many of the routes further right are characterised by hideous starts: really hard lower sections, rather desperate for a few moves, but all are well bolted. Before we tried the other routes over 6b, Hayley led the very pleasant Over the Wall, a rising traverse line at a soft 6a which I've done several times before. With rope above, we both did Checkpoint Charlie. This is very technical low down, with only tiny usable footholds and fingery, sustained climbing. One or two finger holds at times: probably 6b+ or borderline 6c as a route. It gets easier towards the top, however. My next lead, the Great Escape, is the exact opposite. An easy start followed by a bulging crux right at the top, which I think I took too far left. Next, we did Lost Control, another f6b, with rope above. This is similar to Checkpoint Charlie, a really hard start using a sidepull with very little for the feet. This is similarly intense but eases more quickly. After all this technicality, we sidled off to the little trad wall further right. I led an easy Severe, done before, up a deep juggy groove and little roof, as the sun set beautifully over the Horseshoe Pass and the temperature dropped quite dramatically.

Idwal climbing

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Routes: Central Rib (HS 4b,4a,4b:led p.2,4), Wall Variations/Original Route (VS 5a:sec), Upper Staircase (D:led), Lava Slab Left Hand (VS 4b:led), Cneifion Arete (D:led p.1,3)
Another very enjoyable enchainement of routes up the slabs and walls of Cwm Idwal. I must have done six or seven of these big outings in the past, always deliberately choosing different variations and different routes up. For me, one of the most enjoyable days to be had in Eryri, especially if you move quickly. The morning had dawned sunny and relatively warm after weeks of unsettled, quite cold weather: and the weather stayed good. I thought I'd done all the routes on the slab many years ago, and had run out of 'different variations', but we found one gap - the line of Central Rib, which is slightly contrived but does concentrate on an obvious feature, the rib left of Hope (and right of the corner taken by Charity). Vic led a long first pitch which was quite delicate and entertaining in places. Slabby padding up the line of the rib led to a bulge which was taken on crystal holds and led to a belay on Hope. My second pitch traversed left to regain the rib, then a few more delicate moves to a crack. It then became impossible for anybody but the most fanatical purist to ignore the obvious thin crack shared with Hope - laced with beautiful nut slots! Vic's third pitch is without doubt the least polished stretch of rock on the Idwal Slabs! A surprisingly technical and delicate traverse gains the rib above the wet corner of Charity. This gives delightful slab climbing, absorbing and with good friction on unpolished rock: presumably the entire crag was once like this. I led an easy and wet fourth pitch up the quartz to the terrace. Vic then went for Wall Variations - an independent 5a eliminate on Original Route which straightens it out and basically gives a completely different route. Having done Original Route before, I think this is a better pitch: certainly more enjoyable with a massive sack on! A technical move right of the normal start, with a sidepull and small footholds gains a superb pocket, then another, and then the Crescent Slab shared with the original. Up this, then a traverse left avoids the thrutchy chimney. Instead a fun mantelshelf gains the easier but good upper groove. We were now in the sunshine, but continued upward progress, trying to move as quickly as possible Alpine-style. I led up the Upper Staircase, a simple Diff which takes the obvious stepped groove on big holds to the upper terrace. From here, prior knowledge allowed us to pick a very enjoyable scrambling line up and right, staying on rock almost the entire way and eventually bringing us out below the hard to find, very esoteric Lava Slab. Not easy to work out the two routes here, but a vague groove points to the two Lava Slab lines (further right, the slab is just too gentle to give proper climbs). I took the left hand line up superb bubbly holds, pockets and little pinnacles. Amazing friction, as these routes get hardly any traffic. Gear was notable only by its absence, a flake at half height gives the only meaningful placements. But the climbing is easy: VS 4a might be more appropriate. I brought Vic up in the sunshine and we walked a little way down Senior's Ridge to have lunch at a delightful lawn of soft grass overlooking all of Ogwen and Nant Francon. A fine morning's work. But we still had some time left, so took a short level amble along the base of sun-soaked Cwm Cneifion and romped up Cneifion Arete. I led the steeper first pitch, then Vic led through the groove, then we moved together up the pinnacles and slabs of the upper crest. I've probably done this route six or seven times in many different circumstances: always a delight. After 1,500ft of movement on rock, we jogged back to to the car in half an hour, branching down the path that leads above the Gribin Facet. Less than two hours from the top of the Gribin to my front door: in time to cook family dinner!

Birkenhead 5 mile

Race: Birkenhead Open Five Mile
Time/Position: 28.46 (17th from 212 [3rd V45])
This is apparently the oldest race on Merseyside, so it seemed an appropriate place to make my debut as a V45 after my birthday last week. It attracts a strong field of club runners, so the start was very fast. I kept to 5.5 minute mile pace and went through three miles in 16.30. It's a three lap loop round this very nice, historic park. I know the park well from the Border League route which I've done many times, but this race takes a completely different route, with fewer twists and turns but one longish gentle climb which really starts to sap the energy on the second and third lap. As a result, I started to lose time, but not too many places as a relatively warm evening caused everyone around me to slacken off at about the same pace. Around 50 seconds outside my PB, so not too bad given current lack of speed work.