Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: Borderline (f6a+:led), Over the Wall (f6a:sec), Checkpoint Charlie (f6b:sec), The Great Escape (f6a:led), Lost Control (f6b:sec), The Fat Controller (S 4a:led)
Almost all these routes feel quite tough for the grade, very tough in some cases, in stark contrast to some of the newly bolted limestone on the coast. The Compact Wall at Trevor is by far the best section of what is a rather scrappy crag, so I went straight for Borderline, a semi-classic on the left of the wall which I have top-roped in the past. It's a very good route, technical and sustained when leading, but with decent rests: it keeps coming at you right up to a second crux at the top. Lovely moves on small positive holds, in delightful warm evening sunshine, lead to a puzzling section at mid-height. I was tempted left by a chalked-up flat hold, but actually the solution lies further to the right. I weighted the bolt for a second as I made the alteration: annoying. Moving right gains a vague groove and easier climbing up to a steep and equally puzzling finish on unhelpful fingery pockets and pinches. I failed on the 6c Margin of Error. Indeed, many of the routes further right are characterised by hideous starts: really hard lower sections, rather desperate for a few moves, but all are well bolted. Before we tried the other routes over 6b, Hayley led the very pleasant Over the Wall, a rising traverse line at a soft 6a which I've done several times before. With rope above, we both did Checkpoint Charlie. This is very technical low down, with only tiny usable footholds and fingery, sustained climbing. One or two finger holds at times: probably 6b+ or borderline 6c as a route. It gets easier towards the top, however. My next lead, the Great Escape, is the exact opposite. An easy start followed by a bulging crux right at the top, which I think I took too far left. Next, we did Lost Control, another f6b, with rope above. This is similar to Checkpoint Charlie, a really hard start using a sidepull with very little for the feet. This is similarly intense but eases more quickly. After all this technicality, we sidled off to the little trad wall further right. I led an easy Severe, done before, up a deep juggy groove and little roof, as the sun set beautifully over the Horseshoe Pass and the temperature dropped quite dramatically.