Rosemergy climbing

Crag: Rosemergy Towers, Penwith, Cornwall
Routes: Flash Back (S 4a:sh), Sam's Greasy Thumbprint (S 4a:sh), Go Shorty Variant (HVS:sh)
Hardly the best venue on the North Cornwall coast, but my solo options with the shunt were rather limited. I climbed at neighbouring Bosigran in the mid 90s, it is undoubtedly one of the finest crags in the UK: Rosemergy is emphatically not! But it did at least provide a sample of Cornish granite and ambience on this early morning trip: nobody around, the sun just rising to light the gorse as I jogged along the coast path. The main, slightly broken, slab is obvious and I found a large flake above it quite easily, abbing down to a comfortable base: a friendly venue, although the swell remained quite heavy below. I didn't know where the routes went, but chose the two obvious lines up the main slab, which was clean and obviously fairly well travelled: excellent rock throughout, both routes following blocky rock interspersed with a couple of delicate moves up to a positive flake crack and scrappy, vegetated finish. The steep and blank face to the right turned out to be Get Shorty at E2 5c. I did the first few moves on a loose shunt, up to the break, fingery and technical. But I had to avoid the final steep wall due to the pendulum, so traversed left into the obvious wet flake crack. Back in time for breakfast and a superb day of boarding in perfect conditions at Porthmeor.

Plym Valley parkrun

'Race': Plym Valley Parkrun, Devon (5k)
Time/Position: 18.39 (4th from 242 [1st Vet])
A quick speed session before leaving Saltash for our cottage in West Penwith. I am still fairly new to Parkruns, but this was a nice course through Plymbridge Woods in the countryside just to the north of Plymouth. It rained throughout, and was already wet underfoot, so I was glad of my fell shoes for the muddy fields that make up the first section of the run. A loop round these fields led to a nice flat towpath along a canal before a steep off-road climb. After this, a long and gradual tarmac descent before a second lap round the muddy fields, where I gained some places to finish 4th. Slow time, but it didn't feel too bad given the nature of the terrain and the muddy conditions.

Sheeps Tor climbing

Crag: Sheeps Tor, Dartmoor, Devon
Routes: Play Crack (D:sol), Slanting Crack (VD:sh), Mushroom Wall (VS 4c+:sh), Burdock (HS 4b:sh), Overhang Crack (HS 4b:sh), Barking Crack (VD:sol/sh), Sheltered Crack (VD:sol/sh), Flake Arete (D:des), Flake Wall (VD:sh), Shallow Corner (VD:sol)
A few days in Devon at the start of our summer holidays, with rather unstable weather throughout. We had visited Saunton Sands and Wembury for bodyboarding, and I'd done a cross-border run across the Tamar Bridge to Plymouth from outside Saltash yesterday. Opportunities to sample a bit more Dartmoor climbing were limited, so I left the motel at 6am and arrived at Sheepstor in classic Dartmoor conditions of dank drizzle and mist half an hour later. Wonderfully atmospheric, and very nice to be back after enjoying the area two years ago. Sheeps Tor is an obvious crag which gives its name to the tiny, tranquil village that nestles below it. It is made up of characteristic Dartmoor granite, rough and steep throughout. Conditions were hardly ideal, with mist swirling over the moorland and intermittent drizzle, but the climbs are straightforward, short and enjoyable. After nipping up Play Crack, I set up a loose shunt, finding the steep and sustained Slanting Crack rather undergraded: a tricky jamming crack, unless I missed something. An eliminate up Mushroom Wall for training purposes was steep and sustained up small positive holds. On the face further right, the two cracklines of Burdock and Overhang Crack are probably the best routes here: both building to difficult crux moves over a final overlap. All the climbs were enjoyable, though, and the rock was so rough that the drizzle didn't affect things too badly. Back to Saltash in time for breakfast.

Gyrn Gallop

Race: Gyrn Gallop fell race (11k/1100ft)
Time/Position: 46.52 (6th from 48)
It was rather nice to be able to see the entire race route from the field in the tiny hamlet in Rhiwlas where we parked. Gyrn is a long summit, quite high for this delightful area of hidden valleys and twisting lanes along the Wales-England border: the Oswestry hinterland. The race should have suited me, but I had a bit of a stinker. Three minutes ahead of the runner behind me, only a minute or so separating second place from me in sixth, with Jez well out in front. A very fast descent down a lane leads to the start of the runnable and fairly gentle bridleway which climbs to the top of Gyrn, with me in second place initially. Although gentle, this kind of climb is always deceptive and the fatigue began to build as I neared the top. The tight group of Oswestry runners all went past me, and although I narrowed the gap on the descent, I then blew completely on the climb back up the steep lane to the village and staggered home at the back of the group.

Dinbren climbing

Crag: Dinbren, Eglwyseg
Routes: Trailer Trash (f6b:led), Laughing Gnome (VS 4b:sec), Goblin Girls (HVS 5a:sec), Ash Crack (HS 4a:led)
Not the most successful climbing trip of the year. Time was very limited, so I immediately got to work on Trailer Trash, a 6b, in cold and windy weather, wearing a coat - not ideal for a route at my current technical limit. It is steep to start, but a line of holds moves left to the second bolt before some easier climbing gains a good foothold and rest. Above, the footholds remain good and allow for a few rests, while the handholds are small but generally positive. The cold wind made life difficult, however, and although I did the route entirely clean and on-sight I fear I moved too far left for the very last move. After this, we moved to the left-hand wall as the sun finally came out. Vic backed off the undergraded Yale, and we also found Goblin Girls moderately stiff for the grade, although it has a fine steep finish on huge holds. This section of crag, on the lower tier at the left-hand end of the crag, is short and undistinguished, and remained very windy this afternoon. A couple more scrappy routes, rather painfully shabby after our Austrian exploits, little wonder that we hadn't been to this section of the crag before, and it was time to go.

Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: The Welsh Wizard (f4c:led), Free Wales (f4a:led), Over Yr on my Heddlu (f5b:led), Christmas Gone Crackers (f6a:sec), Slow, Araf, Slow (f6a:led), Dim Parcio (f4a:sec), Welsh Fargo (f5a:sec)
In instructor mode with Steve, although he got into the swing of things quickly and we soon moved up the grades. I haven't been back to this rather scrappy area since doing most of the routes when they were first developed around a decade ago. It isn't great climbing, but has the usual nice views over Dinas Bran and was particularly pleasant in glorious sunshine on this brief late afternoon visit. Two quite pleasant easy routes started us off, both on reasonably sold rock by the sorry standards of this crag, and taking reasonable lines up slabby ribs. Further right, a better area of rock and two longish routes: not far off 20m. The 5b had an awkward move into a groove with a borehole before pleasant climbing up an easy wall. The supposed 6a was overgraded: I kept religiously to the bolt line, and there were a few vaguely technical moves, but the route is 5+ at most. Similarly, much further left, Slow, Araf, Slow is never f6a. Some sloping holds lead up a slab to a slanting crack, then a steep but juggy finish up the wall above. Not bad, but overgraded. I think I have done the two easy slabby routes to the left before, both longish, and both finishing up a horrible band of shale.

Kentmere horseshoe

Race: Kentmere Horseshoe fell race (20k/3300ft/AM)
Peaks: Ill Bell, High Street, Kentmere Pike
Time/Position: 1.58.28 (62nd from 346)
Our third trip to the Lakes to tick off a classic fell race this year. This one, which is almost as old as me, echoed the Anniversary Waltz (but contrasted with Ennerdale) in that it coincided with some wonderful weather. It echoed the Waltz in another way too, as my time was almost exactly the same (3 seconds quicker) although it was a much worse performance as I was still tired after last week and certainly felt Thursday's giant Watzmann traverse in my legs as we set off up the delightful lanes and tracks from Kentmere village. I have walked this circuit before, and have done at least two mountain marathons in the area, so had some knowledge of the peaks. The route climbs sharply over the shoulder of the Garburn Pass to a bog which leads to a path contouring the tops of Yoke and Froswick. I gained some places after a crowded start, and pushed on a bit to the top of Ill Bell. Wonderful views over the valley and rest of the horseshoe from here. It is a long but runnable haul to the top of High Street from here. To an extent, the rest of the race is just one long downhill blast, but this is actually a lot tougher than I remembered from previous visits, another possible indication of residual fatigue after last week. Brilliant views of the whole horseshoe as I descended towards Mardale Ill Bell, missing a shortcut, then a quick climb up the ridge leads to a narrow contouring line to gain the wide ridge towards Kentmere Pike. This is a short climb, and the descent then continues, although it was surprisingly rocky and boggy in places. I held my position reasonably well, although missed the tape marking the final descent to the village, along with dozens of other runners (it was obscured). Not sure if this made it much longer, but I finished running uphill on tarmac back to the field. A tremendous, logical horseshoe, and another great race.

Watzmann traverse

Peaks: Hocheck (2651m), Watzmann Mittelspitze (2713m), Watzmann Sudspitze (2712m)
Route: Uberschreitung (uI+)
Area: Watzmann, Berchtesgaden, Germany
One of the most famous ridge traverses in the Eastern Alps, this was a memorable way to finish the trip. Our weather luck deserted us, however, with a howling gale slamming into the hut all night and only gradually easing this morning. It all made for a relaxed start, given the magnitude of the task in front of us: the standard time for the full traverse is an alarming 15.5 hours. The precipitous main ridge is just the start of the day: there follows a huge descent 'down the back' of the Watzmann, the terrain and scenery superb throughout. It all meant a leisurely breakfast of speck, rye bread and cheese, with litres of coffee, as clouds continued to wreathe the hut and gusts continued to batter the walls. Eventually, we set off after the rain diminished to a light drizzle and the wind dropped somewhat. The Hocheck is a bit of a slog, but the path meanders upwards to take in some limestone slabs and a short section of scrambling before embarking on the steep, roof-like final climb. The clag was persistent up here, the slabby limestone wet, and the air temperatures uncomfortably cold even without factoring in the wind (2C at the summit, wind chill well below this). I emerged at the Hocheck summit cross a few minutes ahead of Vic, so ducked inside the bivouac shelter nestled at the start of the ridge traverse to sort myself out. The door was locked from the inside, where 12-15 people nestled in a tiny space, waiting for the weather to improve. Several other parties just retreated down from the Hocheck. I waited, and waited - but for some unaccountable reason, Vic didn't come through the door. I went back to the summit cross and peered into the gloom: no sign. After 25 minutes, I decided he must have walked past the hut and started the traverse, but I couldn't be sure, so set off myself, rather tentatively for that reason. It is exposed immediately, but the clag remained stubborn and the rock wet throughout. The wind was dropping, however, so it was perfectly reasonable particularly given the fact that all exposed sections have via ferrata style chains and the like. A sharp arete, very narrow, led to a tricky descent and a series of gangways. A brief clearance to the west revealed a pair of climbers in front (perhaps the only other people to do the traverse today), while to the west, mist obscured the famous 1800m Ostwand/East Face. A spectacular scene and by know I was into the rhythm of the scrambling. It was absolutely wonderful - absorbing and enjoyable, continually varied. A steep gendarme followed by a gully descent was rather awkward, but the Mittelspitze was gained quickly via the Felsen-fenstergrat, no more than 45 minutes from Hocheck, even with my cautious and deliberate approach. No sign of Vic, and all my texts were bouncing back to me. I waited for a long time at the summit, partly hoping for a clearance, partly to give Vic a chance to catch up just in case he was behind. Eventually, the urge to continue got the better of me, and a catwalk led to more superb continuous scrambling. Every so often, huge gendarmes and pinnacles would start to emerge from the mist, only to be swallowed up again when I got the camera out! The section from Mittel to Sudspitze is much longer and more involved, descending the 'zickzacks' to the huge Zackengrat gendarme, which is circumvented via a circuitous detour over the western side of the ridge - intricate and absorbing. Eventually, I heard from Vic - he was already on the South Summit! So I powered past the pair in front and continued along the very narrow section of ridge that precedes the final climb to the South Summit: this knife-edge is avoided by a cat walk in places, but at other times the only way is a'cheval over the knife-edge itself. Above lies the Sudspitze, where all exposure ends - a surprisingly flat and large summit and a very sudden change from the rest of the ridge. The clag remained as thick as ever, but I found Vic sheltering behind some rocks: he was cold, so started the descent after a couple of photos. I had a sandwich first, then set off in pursuit down the vast south 'face' of the mountain. Initially, the line picks an intricate and twisting way down a giant couloir interspersed with small rocky sections. This was enjoyable, and continued the scrambling tone of the day: it reminded me a little of the descent down the western side of Tryfan, albeit it on a far grander scale. As we emerged at the huge scree slopes that form the Schonfeldschnied, we dropped below the clag for the first time, revealing gigantic walls of limestone towering into the mist and an impressive continuation ridge dropping down to the valley. The scree allowed for a rapid descent initially, although it was all quite steep. As we dropped, further clearances began to reveal the stunning valley in front - and there followed an hour or so of the most incredible skies as the mist peeled away from the Grosser Hundstod in front and the Hoch Kalter to the west. Limestone spires wreathed in tendrils of mist, with us looking down on the scene: very memorable and very photogenic. After a snack watching these magnificent scenes unfold, we continued down a mixture of grass, scree and rocky sections, still tortuous and weaving to avoid a canyon where the streams dropped down to the valley base. A long chained section down an eroded spur finally allowed us to gain the Bangraben in the Wimbachtal valley itself. The scenery here, marked Schonfeldgraben, is the equal of anything in the Alps: in fact, it is somewhat atypical, and reminiscent more of Canada or parts of the Himalaya. Intermittent conifer forest, and a vast dry storm channel, surrounded by spires of rock. We finally gained a the standard path down the Wimbachtal for the final, very long, section back to the car: perhaps 13k? A delightful walk ensued, initially down the valley to the obvious target of the Wimbachgrieshutte where we stopped for tea and goulaschsuppe. Wonderfully restorative, sitting on benches in the sunshine while the mist peeled away from the spectacular Sigaretkopf to the south-west. Fortified, we ploughed down the remainder of the Wimbachtal, which begins to curve round to the north at this point, first to the Wimbachschloss, and then to the forested hills above the Wimbachbrucke. It was all a very long way, but played to our strengths, as did the entire traverse.

Wimbachbrucke to Watzmannhaus

Although I do a fair amount of research before every trip, I occasionally skirt over inconvenient details. This was one such example: I presumed the walk-in to the Watzmannhaus was short and simple. It is actually (in theory) a four-hour walk up a 1400m vertical interval - which wasn't ideal after a rather intense few days. We were, however, pleased that we had been disciplined and severely limited the scope of this morning's climbing - and managed to reach the hut in a leisurely but sustained 2.5 hours. Wimbachbrucke is a busy focal point for lots of walks and mountain outings, but we were able to park because of the late hour. Long and sweaty zigzags, humidity building, led through deep forest to a clearance below the Stubenalm. The skies had darkened and thunder began to rumble around: time for coats and a snack. The hut was still well above us (it can be seen from the valley as it is spectacularly sited on the edge of a spur running down from the high peaks, overlooking the entire valley). It seemed that an unwelcome repeat of Saturday night's drenching was on the cards, not a prospect to be relished, although the trees seemed likely to shelter us from the worst of the storm. In the event, despite some heavy rain, the thunder and lightning stayed distant. Past the Mitterkaseralm, steep paths led to open mountainside and spectacular views to the pyramidal Kleiner Watzmann directly in front. The skyscape changed continually - with clouds shifting in and out and occasional rainbows below us in the valley. At one point, streamers of cloud blew over the ridge and were backlit by the sun. A few chamois and a probable black woodpecker (lower in the forest) also enlivened the slog upwards, which ended with a few wet zigzags and then a burst of glorious sunshine in bracing winds as we emerged two minutes below the hut - as I looked over the misty valley to the east my glory appeared in the valley below, a huge shadow ringed by a rainbow, the 5th or 6th time I have experienced this famous phenomenon. Above rose another range of peaks above the town of Berchtesgaden nestling in the valley way below. We retired to the large (but cosy and convivial) hut for a stormy night, westerly gusts battering the hut continually, refuelling on the excellent local helles brew, with dumplings, speck and kaiserschmarrn.

Gamsfelsen climbing

Crag: Gamsfelsen, Ellmau, Wilder Kaiser
Routes: Aser (f4:led), Trager (f6+:led), Lauscher (f6+:led), Gamsbart (f5+:led), Auf der Pirsch (f5:led), Kruckel (f4:led), Ameisentanz (f3:sec)
It felt wrong to be surrounded by the highest Wilder Kaiser peaks but playing around on this little crag. However, there were good reasons for this. Firstly, we were tired. Secondly, we were walking in to the Watzmann hut later and had the full traverse in store tomorrow. In addition, I had been here before - driving to the Wochunbrunner Alm in 2011 before traversing the Ellmauer Tor and climbing three of the highest peaks (indeed the Vordere Goinger Halt and Ellmauer Halt towered above us today, looking satisfyingly impressive). A steep walk up from the Alm leads to the Gaudeamushutte hut and delightful Alpine pastures. It was a glorious morning, with the cow bells tinkling and truly wonderful views over Ellmauer and the verdant Hohe Salve to the Zillertal and Venediger beyond. The crag was indeed small, but perfect for a spot of mild cragging in a supremely tranquil and scenic environment. We swept the crag from left to right, beginning with the pleasant arete taken by Aser, then upping the grade for two delicate 6+ routes which had thought-provoking crux moves on tiny pockets and edges. The two grade 5s were juggy, fairly steep and enjoyable, although all over too quickly. We both led every route, apart from the f3 at the right-hand side which we both climbed one handed! After a picnic at Wochunbrunner, we drove east through Lofer and its gorge into Germany and, after a coffee in Ramsau, parked at Wimbachbruke for the walk-in to the Watzmannhaus.

Achleiten climbing

Crag: Achleiten, Soll, Austria
Routes: Tannenweg (f4:sec), Eulenweg (f5c:led), Direkter Eulenweg (f6a:sec), Weg zur Eibe (f5:led)
Tired after the run up Scheffauer, and the previous two days, this steep and strenuous crag was probably not the ideal choice for a spot of relaxed climbing. But it was Soll's local crag and gave us a different perspective on the landscape at this end of the range. A long and twisting drive up the side of the valley led to a longish, but mercifully largely downhill walk-in. The crag is relentlessly steep throughout, its lower half hidden by trees, its upper half exposed to full sunshine as it was now mid-afternoon. The crag has a rather complex structure, which we tried to partially unlock by doing the easy Tannenweg up slabs to gain an obvious ledge system, above which several other reasonably graded routes made their way. I led up Eulenweg, which took a shallow groove diagonally right to finish up a steep wall. Here, we had our first encounter with a bizarre feature of the crag: numerous 'knobs' of dark rock protruding from the limestone. These often provided pinch holds, or crucial footholds, my geological knowledge is insufficient to identify: fossilised wood perhaps? I lowered off below the true finish of the climb, frying in intense afternoon sunshine with the humidity building, and tiring rapidly after the morning run. Vic unlocked the crucial upper section, and I then followed up with the Direct version straight through the lower bulge - powerful but good, hidden holds - and completed the route with an excellent crux move stepping left onto a steep wall using those 'knobs'. We retreated to the shade at the bottom of the crag and finished with Weg zur Eibe, which was a fine route up a steep slab to a pull over an overhang and good climbing above using the knobs. A clap of thunder as I lowered off, and this heralded another storm, which turned out to be less intense than the others.

Scheffauer run

Peak: Scheffauer (2111m)
Area: Wilder Kaiser, Austria
Although we had gorged ourselves on rock yesterday, I was conscious that the high peaks beckoned and was keen to add to the list of Wilder Kaiser summits I had climbed in 2011. A beautiful morning, and after strudel and coffee in Soll we drove up to Barnstatt above Scheffau where I set out for the village's signature peak: Sheffauer itself, which dominates the western fringes of the range. A rather fearsome 1300m vertical interval lay in wait, along with a walking time of four hours to reach the summit, six hours for the round trip. Vic went for a coffee and I gave myself a target of two hours to reach the summit and back. Good running up tracks led to a clearing, then hairpins up to the wonderfully positioned Steiner Hochalm. Above, the path steepens to reach dense forest which eventually gives way to open screes below the headwall that marks the end of the main Wilder Kaiser ridge. A vague path ran diagonally up through the screes and made for quick progress as it was largely runnable. Once beyond the screes, the route becomes more tortuous, weaving up little rocky sections to eventually engage in another long traverse, diagonally leftwards this time, directly below the limestone headwall. It was all really enjoyable, as wisps of mist drifted across the face of the Sonneck to the east. A chained section took wet slabs below a large overhang until more scrambling led straight up to the pronounced col on the main Wilder Kaiser ridge line. The mist cleared at the exact point that I reached the col, providing an absolutely spectacular backdrop and wonderful views. A short run along grass then rocks led to the cross on the summit of the Scheffauer - in 71 minutes from the car, which I was quite pleased with. It was immediately clear that I had chosen my objective wisely, as it essentially marks the western extremity of the range: beyond, the ridge just descends down to the stunning turquoise lake of the Hintersteiner See and the lower Bavarian Alps across the German border beyond. To the east, a stunning sight as the Hackenkopfe emerged from the mist, which boiled up from the south: the ridge to it looked superb and relatively easy, but I had to get back so pelted back down for a two hour round trip. This area has a totally different ambience and outlook than the peaks I climbed more centrally in 2011.

Wildangerwandl climbing

Crag: Wildangerwandl, Totenkirchl, Wilder Kaiser
Routes: Cola Light (f4,5:led p.2), Goinger Wandl (f4+,4+:led p.2), Gargamel (f5+:sec), Via Christine (f4,4,4:led p.2)
Crag: Gams-Wandl, Fleischbank, Wilder Kaiser
Routes: Nass & Kalt (f5:led), Edelmischung (f5:sec)
After another wet night, drizzle in the morning meant it seemed unlikely we would get much done. However, over another leisurely and highly atypical hut breakfast, the rain began to clear to leave spectacular tendrils of mist in the valley containing these crags, which nestle between the walls of the Totenkirchl and Fleischbank lending them a spectacular and memorable backdrop. The walk-in from the hut is easy, and we arrived to find much of the cliff still dripping wet - although the sun was beginning to light the top of the slabby wall on the right where we started. The classics were occupied, so we started up Cola Light on the far right of the crag. Vic led a wet but easy first, very sparsely bolted, to a small stance. It quickly became obvious that this route wasn't the standard clip-up: my pitch traversed right past two spaced bolts, some delicate moves on wet holds, to gain a crack system. This was vegetated in places, and wet almost throughout. One peg and some threaded tat meant I was glad we had packed the wires and friends: it was just like being at home! The gear was good, though, as was the climbing, and it all made for a satisfying if unanticipated start. The two pitch Goinger Wandl was more conventional, taking a steeper crack line via two good pitches. Vic's first took a smooth slab to a juggy crack, while my second took the continuation with some enjoyable moves. Gargamel was a new, steeper addition, taking a curving crackline further left. After all this, the classic of the crag - Via Christine - finally became free after two parties finished climbing it. An excellent route, albeit perhaps the easiest of the day, gently sustained at British S/HS throughout three varied pitches. Vic's first pitch took an elegant, and dry, rib to a small stance. I led through on lovely bubbly limestone trending left towards an obvious capping overhang. Unsurprisingly, the rock was wet beneath the overhang, but it was superbly rough and juggy. A few pinched holds and upside down spikes allow the overhang to be skirted on the left. A final, exposed pitch up clean walls leads to the top of the crag. A very fine route: we just managed to get down in two abseils (we had a single 70m rope, which just about allowed us to use the abseil stations on this section of crag). A brilliant start to the day - 8 long pitches - but we now had it in our heads to indulge in a feeding frenzy and go for the favoured 1000ft of climbing target. After a quick lunch, we sauntered over to the nearby Gams-Wandl, a separate crag below the North Ridge of the Fleischbank. Despite its proximity, this crag has a friendlier atmosphere than the Wildanger, and looks up the valley towards the Stripsenjoch. The climbing is slabby and delicate, and is characterised by continuous waterworn tubes/pillars of impeccable limestone. I led up a completely dry route which took an easy slab to a steepening half tube of concrete-like limestone. This gave superb climbing with a mixture of delicate bridging up the tube and the occasional pocket and face hold. Another long 30m+ pitch, we were getting close to the 1000ft target. Vic completed proceedings with a lead of a similar line further left: also slabby, delicate and thought-provoking, particularly at the start with some tenuous and technical moves despite the very lowly grade. After this, reluctantly, we packed the gear after a superb day of climbing - 10 long pitches all around British VS. We were conscious of the fact that we had no accommodation booked in the valley, had not showered for two days, and had to recuperate. We scampered down to Griesenau and the car, drove round to the southern side of the range for a good feed in St Johan before booking an ideal cheap hotel in Soll where we refuelled on Tyrolean Rosti as another torrential storm blew in.

Hundskopf climbing

Crag: Hundskopf, Stripsenkopf, Wilder Kaiser
Routes: Lupo (f4:sec), Idefix (f5:led), Amadeus (f4+:led)
After our uneccessary reccie of the other crags, and the 10 pitches of the Fuhrerweg, we perhaps should have retired to the hut for Strudel. However, we were conscious of the mixed forecast for the week, and decided to take advantage of the sunshine to climb on the Hundskopf. Again, I had been here before: doing the via ferrata in 2011. This time, we took the gear and fried, both on the steep walk up, and in the direct sunshine on the west facing crags. As ever, stupendous views across to the walls of the main Wilder Kaiser, and a great place to pick out the line of this morning's long route. The climbing on the Hundskopf is undistinguished, particularly given the grand surroundings, but it was a pleasant place to spend the afternoon. Vic led Lupo, which took a wide and twisting crack to a steeper section up juggy ledges. I led Idefix, a tad harder, up the vague arete to the right. This had some nice moves up to a steep slab below an overhang. Moves right gain a sharp arete and a pull over to the finish: longish pitch. Amadeus was another longish ridge pitch to the left, after which it was a race against time to avoid the next thunderstorm galloping in from the west: the first rumbles and flashes came as Vic failed on a harder route. We both abbed off to retrieve the gear, packed the stuff in record time, and ran back to the hut. This time, in contrast to last night, we got there just in the nick of time as the heavens opened. A splendid evening of refuelling followed: superb beer, soup, Wiener Schnitzel and Topfenstrudel.

Fuhrerweg climb

Crag: Totenkirchl, Wilder Kaiser, Austria
Route: Fuhrerweg (u2,3-,2,2,3,2,3-,3,2:led p.2,4,6,8,10)
This historic route, which finds an easy way through the outrageous rock walls of the Totenkirchl, seemed an ideal way to start our trip. It is little more than a scramble technically, around UK Diff in standard, but is the only real line of resistance and so is (very mildly) committing. After a wet night, the day dawned clear and we sat around in the sunshine eating breakfast: not something I have ever done before at a mountain hut. This casual approach had a price: we walked along the wooded ridge towards the face and spied a few parties ahead of us. We were inevitably going to get caught behind them. The initial ridge is delightful, and leads to a broad scree gully leading up to the walls of the Totenkirchl which tower above. One awkward move round a jammed boulder leads to a widening, before the first 50m 'pitch' is reached. This is just a scramble, around grade II climbing, but very enjoyable and sustained the whole way. At the stance, we roped up and realised we were going nowhere fast, with two or three pairs above. However, we soon reconciled ourselves to our fate, a relaxed start to the trip - and, as I was concerned about the possibility of storms, I was consoled by the fact that we would be able to retreat first if a storm rolled in later on. Still, it was frustrating to have to wait for three separate parties on such an easy route which we could have quickly romped up. I led the steeper second, which took a wet chimney on slippery and polished limestone. A long traverse then led to an 8 metre downclimb into a gap above a long chimney, which gave Vic the lead of the crucial 'Fuhrerwandl' pitch. This looks steep from across the gap, but is actually slabby and delightfully juggy: a nice pitch with one tricky move to finish. Another long traverse right gains the base of the main chimney system, known as the Fuhrerkamin, a huge feature very clearly visible from the hut. Vic led up the waterworn groove itself in one long rope length. I led through, up steep rock to the right of an obvious constriction then continued up the chimney line to some tat above some huge jammed boulders. From my stance, I realised I had gone too high and missed the crucial leftward traverse! This was annoying, as we had climbed past the slowest party by now and were making rapid progress. But I was able to secure the downclimb by clipping the tat and joined Vic for the leftwards escape from the main chimney system. This leads to a subsidiary chimney groove (the Leuchsrinne), which is easier, and heads up to the main terrace. As we completed the pitch, a triple clap of thunder rang out. Decision time. We had done all the climbing on the main part of the route - the rest is a walk up the terrace to a short pitch below the summit. I had no desire to be caught in a storm high up on the mountain, although Vic felt we should wait to see if the storm passed. We went with retreat which, on this occasion was the wrong decision, but I still felt it was sound mountain judgment. Indeed, we had to reverse the entire route anyway, with a series of at least 8 abseils. When we got to the base, the sun came out and all danger of storms passed: such is the nature of the game. We picked an exposed an tenuous line down through spectacular pyramids to the east, intent on finding the Wildangerwald. This was unnecessarily tiring in the building heat, wasted energy, and we finally retreated back up to the hut for water before setting out for some afternoon cragging on the Hundskopf.

Griesenau to Stripsenjoch

I've been caught in a few storms in my time, but none quite as sudden or violent as this one, which made for an unexpectedly memorable hut walk at the start of this year's Alpine trip. We had flown into Munich in the afternoon, stopped for a pizza at Walchsee and started the short walk in to Stripsenjoch unusually late, almost 7pm. The reason for this casual approach was that we had booked places, and I had previously visited the hut in 2011 from the much longer northern approach via the Eggersteig and knew this way to be far easier. It was indeed, but we didn't factor in the storm which blew in very rapidly as we contoured up through the trees in worsening light and increasing humidity. The view up to the Ellmaeur Tor from here is spectacular, arguably Europe's most dramatic col. We were stripped to the waist initially, then came a distant clap of thunder. By the time we emerged from the woods, the storm had blown in (from the other side of the Stripsenjoch to the west - which was why it took us by surprise). Soon, torrential rain and squally gusts accompanied the thunder and lightning. Mercifully, the hut's lights glimmered not too far above, so we put our running fitness to good use and increased the speed, with headtorches and coats replacing the bare chests! Water cascaded from the slabs above the path - as Vic said, it was like being in a car wash without the car. I likened it to having buckets of water thrown over you. Explosions of thunder and seemingly constant lightning flashes as we crested the col and scampered into the warmth and conviviality of the hut, totally sodden. Time for one beer before bed in our own room in the separate hut building.

Pen Trwyn climbing

Crag: Pen Trwyn, Llandudno
Routes: Belay Bunny Bounces Back (f6a+:led), Really Exciting Climb (VS 5a:sec), Vic 20 (HVS 5a:sec), Captain Percival (f6a+:led)
Intermittent visits to the Orme over many years tend to end the same way - tail between the legs, defeated by the steep and sustained nature of the climbing. This was only a partial exception, in the sense that we got four decent routes in before the pump kicked in on a harder route. I am at least now building a reasonable list of routes around the Orme, albeit slowly! I kicked off with the f6a+ that we failed on at the end of a tiring session a couple of years ago. Like all the routes here, it is steep to start, focusing the mind immediately with a series of sustained moves on good holds. Once passed the third bolt, it eases slightly but is sustained up to here. It is pumpy, though, deceptively steep as ever on this crag, and I weighted the fourth bolt briefly even though this is after the crux. Above, it eases but remains thought-provoking. The VS to its right is a bit of a sandbag, steep moves to a polished crack which gives nice climbing. Good line, but closer to HVS. The route to its left actually is HVS, albeit top-end, with technical climbing at first with a tiny pinch and small footholds - more like 5b - leading to an excellent positive crack and steep but enjoyable climbing up a bulge to finish. Much further right, Captain Percival is a 6a+ right next to the road. Steep moves on good holds lead to an unfortunate grass ledge before a waterworn groove gives good climbing to a wide bridge: then a delicate and technical move on to the face on the right, small holds, up to a bigger flat hold and the finish. We ended the day by failing on the notoriously desperate start of the 6b+ to its right.

Dyserth climbing

Crag: Dyserth waterfall crag
Routes: Magnificent Rita (f5:sec), Men of Dinorwic Slate (f5:led), Rhubarb Wall (f6a+:sec), Diamonds and Pearls (f5:led), Suleiman the Insignificant (f5:sec), Custard Corner (f5:sec), Windsor Wall (f6b:sec)
A short afternoon trip, with just a couple of hours spare. All routes were repeats, as I had swept the crag on a winter's day a few years ago. It may not be the greatest venue, but it is pleasant enough right next to the stream through this sylvan valley, and very convenient for a short visit. The longer corner taken by 'Dinorwic' is steep, juggy and interesting, and I bouldered out the top of Rhubarb Wall while I was here (the best route on this part of the crag, in a good position above the overhangs). Custard Corner seemed much better than last time: good, powerful laybacking up an obvious corner with crystals for the feet, and the 6b eliminate 'Windsor Wall' is also entertaining and good for finger strength. One of the most public places I have ever climbed, with dozens of visitors from nearby holiday resorts wandering past and stopping to ask questions!