Wednesday, July 12, 2017

Gamsfelsen climbing

Crag: Gamsfelsen, Ellmau, Wilder Kaiser
Routes: Aser (f4:led), Trager (f6+:led), Lauscher (f6+:led), Gamsbart (f5+:led), Auf der Pirsch (f5:led), Kruckel (f4:led), Ameisentanz (f3:sec)
It felt wrong to be surrounded by the highest Wilder Kaiser peaks but playing around on this little crag. However, there were good reasons for this. Firstly, we were tired. Secondly, we were walking in to the Watzmann hut later and had the full traverse in store tomorrow. In addition, I had been here before - driving to the Wochunbrunner Alm in 2011 before traversing the Ellmauer Tor and climbing three of the highest peaks (indeed the Vordere Goinger Halt and Ellmauer Halt towered above us today, looking satisfyingly impressive). A steep walk up from the Alm leads to the Gaudeamushutte hut and delightful Alpine pastures. It was a glorious morning, with the cow bells tinkling and truly wonderful views over Ellmauer and the verdant Hohe Salve to the Zillertal and Venediger beyond. The crag was indeed small, but perfect for a spot of mild cragging in a supremely tranquil and scenic environment. We swept the crag from left to right, beginning with the pleasant arete taken by Aser, then upping the grade for two delicate 6+ routes which had thought-provoking crux moves on tiny pockets and edges. The two grade 5s were juggy, fairly steep and enjoyable, although all over too quickly. We both led every route, apart from the f3 at the right-hand side which we both climbed one handed! After a picnic at Wochunbrunner, we drove east through Lofer and its gorge into Germany and, after a coffee in Ramsau, parked at Wimbachbruke for the walk-in to the Watzmannhaus.

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