Pen Trwyn climbing

Crag: Pen Trwyn, Llandudno
Routes: Belay Bunny Bounces Back (f6a+:led), Really Exciting Climb (VS 5a:sec), Vic 20 (HVS 5a:sec), Captain Percival (f6a+:led)
Intermittent visits to the Orme over many years tend to end the same way - tail between the legs, defeated by the steep and sustained nature of the climbing. This was only a partial exception, in the sense that we got four decent routes in before the pump kicked in on a harder route. I am at least now building a reasonable list of routes around the Orme, albeit slowly! I kicked off with the f6a+ that we failed on at the end of a tiring session a couple of years ago. Like all the routes here, it is steep to start, focusing the mind immediately with a series of sustained moves on good holds. Once passed the third bolt, it eases slightly but is sustained up to here. It is pumpy, though, deceptively steep as ever on this crag, and I weighted the fourth bolt briefly even though this is after the crux. Above, it eases but remains thought-provoking. The VS to its right is a bit of a sandbag, steep moves to a polished crack which gives nice climbing. Good line, but closer to HVS. The route to its left actually is HVS, albeit top-end, with technical climbing at first with a tiny pinch and small footholds - more like 5b - leading to an excellent positive crack and steep but enjoyable climbing up a bulge to finish. Much further right, Captain Percival is a 6a+ right next to the road. Steep moves on good holds lead to an unfortunate grass ledge before a waterworn groove gives good climbing to a wide bridge: then a delicate and technical move on to the face on the right, small holds, up to a bigger flat hold and the finish. We ended the day by failing on the notoriously desperate start of the 6b+ to its right.