Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: The Welsh Wizard (f4c:led), Free Wales (f4a:led), Over Yr on my Heddlu (f5b:led), Christmas Gone Crackers (f6a:sec), Slow, Araf, Slow (f6a:led), Dim Parcio (f4a:sec), Welsh Fargo (f5a:sec)
In instructor mode with Steve, although he got into the swing of things quickly and we soon moved up the grades. I haven't been back to this rather scrappy area since doing most of the routes when they were first developed around a decade ago. It isn't great climbing, but has the usual nice views over Dinas Bran and was particularly pleasant in glorious sunshine on this brief late afternoon visit. Two quite pleasant easy routes started us off, both on reasonably sold rock by the sorry standards of this crag, and taking reasonable lines up slabby ribs. Further right, a better area of rock and two longish routes: not far off 20m. The 5b had an awkward move into a groove with a borehole before pleasant climbing up an easy wall. The supposed 6a was overgraded: I kept religiously to the bolt line, and there were a few vaguely technical moves, but the route is 5+ at most. Similarly, much further left, Slow, Araf, Slow is never f6a. Some sloping holds lead up a slab to a slanting crack, then a steep but juggy finish up the wall above. Not bad, but overgraded. I think I have done the two easy slabby routes to the left before, both longish, and both finishing up a horrible band of shale.