Cwm Llafur scramble and run

Peaks: Carnedd Dafydd, Yr Elen
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A version of the Cwm Llafur horseshoe, last done in superb snowy conditions in early January, incorporating the Llech Ddu spur. After dropping Kate at work and a coffee in the Puffin cafe, I parked in lower Gerlan and ran up the lanes to the start of the Black Ladders path. This is very boggy initially, but the scenery is the essence of Welshness in this little area, I always think. After the branch off for the walking path to Dafydd, the path becomes dry and flat: and gives excellent fast running towards the impressive headwall of the Cwm, one of the finest in Wales. Llech Ddu rises in front, with Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders) beyond. I have done the Llech Ddu/Crib Lem scramble a few times over the years, but less than the other classics: it is remote and superbly situated. But the last two visits to these parts were for winter routes on the Black Ladders. A small path leads up Cwmglas Bach and eventually cuts left above the top of Llech Ddu to gain the start of the rocky spur that initiates the scramble. It was soaking wet throughout, but at least the rain stopped while I was on it - cold hands but enjoyable climbing throughout. A good run along the ridge, less tired than I was at the same point on Monday, before branching off for the contouring path that we'd taken 64 hours earlier on our 3000s run - I could clearly see our Innov8 footprints in the mud! At the top of Yr Elen, the rain began again in earnest and I got a right soaking as I ran down the excellent ridge to plunge into the dense vegetation at the base of Cwm Llafur. By the time I reached the car in Gerlan I was soaked and cold: a foretaste of winter as my numb hands fumbled with the car keys.

Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: Impaction (f5:sec), Opening Impact (f6b:sec), No Evasion (f5:led), Sudden Impact (f4:led), Impact Imminent (f6b:sec)
One of the least distinguished areas on this undistinguished crag, but these routes at least gave a bit of entertainment before heading to the office. Opening Impact is short but hard at the grade, and No Evasion has a high first bolt: I'd done all the other routes before. Andy and Hayley carried on climbing, but I had to head to work before mid-morning.

Welsh 3000s

Peaks: Yr Wyddfa, Crib y Ddisgyl, Crib Goch, Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach, Tryfan, Pen yr Olau Wen, Carnedd Dafydd, Yr Elen, Carnedd Llewellyn, Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Fras
Time: 8.38
The finest Welsh mountain day of all, but only the second time I've done it. This is partly due to the awkward logistics, although running it is far easier and less complex than walking: indeed, we only decided to do it on Friday night. In 2003, it was planned for several months: we had support team and various other advantages when I walked it with Steve and company, and it took 15 hours from Crib Goch to Foel Fras. This time Peter, Jez and I did it in purist fashion: no support, and walking up Snowdon first (the true start of the classic route, harder than starting up Crib Goch). It is such an aesthetic, varied and logical line, nothing arbitrary about it, that it is surprising that it seems to be falling out of favour slightly. Pen y Pass was rammed when we arrived at 1am! I can only assume these were the dreaded, rather contemptible 'three peak' challengers: whatever they were, vans arrived all night and we had a couple of hours sleep at best before ambling up Snowdon at 6am for the true start of the 3000s (which is traditionally timed from the top of Snowdon to the top of Foel Fras). The weather was dire: thick clag, rain and 35mph westerlies that we just knew were waiting to batter us as we crested the ridge by the obelisk above the zigzags. Even at our ambling pace, we were on top of Snowdon in well under an hour. Touching the cairn, we set off running down the main path to the branch off towards Crib y Ddisgyl (Garnedd Ugain). It was pretty obvious that the ridge would be awkward in the high winds, and the rock was soaking - not ideal in old fell running shoes. Fine for Peter and I, not so fine for Jez, who does not have a climbing or mountaineering background. In the event, he was fine as we enjoyed the initial rocky ridge down to Crib Goch, with the first pinnacle looming through the mist. After a few pointers, Jez negotiated this without any problems and the rest of the ridge was completed without issues, although the wind and the rain slowed us down considerably. The North Ridge, down from the summit, is also awkward in these conditions, and we then had the trickiest nav on the route to do in claggy conditions. We cut north-west down the screes, then went a tad too far west as we descended grassy slopes to emerge above Llyn Glas. This was far from the optimal line, but not too disastrous as it leads to a good path which I knew well from previous visits to Cwm Glas for winter routes and the like. Down past Cyrn Las and a spectacular but brief clearance over the pass, then the road at Blaen y Nant. Quick running down the pass to Nant Peris and then the dreadful climb up Elidir Fawr. Almost certainly the day's lowpoint, we'd done this on last September's memorable Elidir Fawr race and remembered all the tiny shortcuts. The climb is endless, but at least we had the superb run over Bwlch y Brechan to Y Garn to look forward to. Conditions continued dire: cold, wet and windy. Indeed, Y Garn was an unexpected and unanticipated lowpoint for me. It didn't last, though, and we picked up the pace down to Llyn y Cwn and up the steep screes to Glyder Fawr. Careful nav across the plateau, always tricky in clag, to the scramble up Glyder Fach, then down the side of Bristly Ridge where the weather finally, and spectacularly, cleared eompletely: superb conditions for the rest of the day. Within five minutes, it was warm and the wind had dropped: dry rock for the scramble up Tryfan and down the western gully to Ogwen. I descended more quickly than the other two and pelted down to Ogwen cottage for the psychologically crucial hot pie I had been looking forward to! Along with a coke and crisps, it represented rebirth, and we all flew up the first section of the notorious slog up Pen yr Olau Wen: only 51 minutes from Ogwen to summit. It is all over bar the shouting then, and I was surprised to have very good legs for the rest of the day - just a few minutes over the top of Dafydd then above the Black Ladders to the crucial traverse path to Yr Elen, which includes a welcome water source. Back over Carnedd Llewellyn, fine and fast despite the sharp climb, then the wonderful final leg - all runnable - over Foel Grach and Carnedd Gwenllian to Foel Fras. Not a fast time (8.38 is closer to Thomas Firbank than Colin Donnelly!) but we weren't trying to push it, just to enjoy the day. With a ride up Snowdon, better conditions for the first half, and a better line down to Blaen y Nant, perhaps 90 minutes could be taken off. Given that I've spent the summer training for 1500m and 5k, I was just surprised to have the legs: although the big days in Scotland, the Alps and the Lakes obviously also helped, the benefits of my usual ultra-varied approach. An easy stroll down to Llyn Anafon and the car, back to pick up the car at Pen y Pass and a quick recovery pint in the Vaynol.

Llanymynech climbing

Crag: Llanymynech, Shropshire/Powys
Routes: Bah Bah Black Sheep (f6a+:led), Up the Spout (f6b:sec), Coming of Age (f6a:led), Culture Cryptic (f5b:led), Culture Vulture (f5b:sec)
One of those venues that you drive past hundreds of times without ever investigating further. The new guidebook inspired me to take a closer look, so myself and Steve headed over for a brief reccie session as the typical unreliable August weather continues. I knew the quarried walls were big, but didn't appreciate quite how big - some massive bolted pitches, reminiscent of the huge single pitches in Gorbio or other Provencal venues. We kicked off with the popular 6a+ taking the vague arete on the right-hand side of the excellent and impressive Grid Iron Wall. This was a fine route - one of the best sports routes of its grade locally - interesting throughout, well bolted, with crux moves over the obvious small overhang at half height. Good rests in places, and rarely overtly strenuous. The final moves took a short wall on small holds. I found the route quite straitforward, and did it quickly and cleanly onsight. The f6b to its left is similar, although I did not take on the continuation on the upper wall. Further right, I led the left-hand 6a up a much scrappier and more broken area of rock. Another very long route, at least 30m from the bottom, only just possible on the stretch of the rope. It was slightly loose in places, but very reasonable technically, just one awkward mantel at half height. Much further left, we walked along the path (crossing into Wales) for two routes on the Cult Wall. This is much shorter, so we did the two longest and cleanest-looking routes on the right: both were worthwhile. Cryptic had one crux move over an overlap which was much harder than the rest of the route, but both were on dark and relatively solid limestone. An early finish gave us time for the Collie run up Moel Famau later.

Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: Dai Laughing (f5a:led), The Valleys Initiative (f5b:led)
Rain was already sweeping in from the Berwyns as we arrived at the crag, walking in to the routes more in hope than expectation. By the time we arrived, the rock was sodden, as were we, so we gave up and went for a run along the escarpment to Twilight Tower Buttress, with a continuous band of showers coming in from the west. The path down to OD is very feint here, much more so than the other limestone valleys - Pinfold and the like. At the bottom. we ran down OD then along the road back to the car. Another heavy shower as we tried again to climb, before a short clearance eventually allowed us to do a couple of routes. Sadly, both were awful: soapy rock, sloping holds, rusty lower offs. Even by the standards of Trevor, this section of cliff is uninspiring. More rain came as a relief and we scampered back to the car glad to have an excuse to finish before midday.

Dyffryn Mymbyr climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Wen/Clogwyn Du (Dyffryn Mymbyr)
Routes: Direct Route (HS 4b:sec), Anos (HVS 5a:sec), Proten (HVS 5a:sec), Zigzag (VD:led), Joycean (VS 4b:sec), High Cross (E2 5b:sec), Pock Wall (S:led), Sheep's Pen Buttress (VS 4c:sec)
One of those occasions when detailed local knowledge comes into its own. It had poured down in the night, as this unstable August continues. It was obvious that the Pass crags were wet as we drove up, and it seemed likely the showers would continue. As a result, we ditched our Cromlech plans and I suggested the southern side of the Glyderau might make a good alternative, as a kind of miniature rain shadow area. This worked a treat and, although Clogwyn Wen is short, it is a fine crag of excellent clean granite: the routes are, almost without exception, good and varied. Vic kicked off with the obvious central line, Direct Route, in glorious sunshine with the rock almost completely dry. This route goes up a gently curving groove to a tricky move up steep rock to gain good holds and an easy finishing chimney. We then took the opportunity to bomb up the two fine HVS's to the right with rope above. Anos heads up to an upside down flake and massive undercut hold. A powerful layback using satisfyingly huge flake holds goes up to a ledge and thread. Proten, further right, was wet higher up but also good: heading up to a strange detached flake with small but positive holds. I then led Zigzag, an easy route up granite steps traversing diagonally left over the face. At the junction with Anos/Direct Route, I reversed back to a belay and Vic led through up the undistinguished Joycean at mild VS. The best route here is the hardest, High Cross, again done with rope above. A superb and varied pitch, it goes up an awkward groove to a very hard move with little for the feet. This gains a rest in Direct Route, before a pulsating hand traverse below the roof. Good holds and tiny ledges for the feet, which can be found if you look hard enough. At the far end of the traverse, a semi-rest, before long reaches for good side pulls and mini jugs up the steep finishing wall. Light showers passed from time to time, but our choice was thoroughly vindicated: the Pass and Snowdon stayed clagged in and wet for the entire day. After a heavier shower, we moved round to Clogwyn Du (where I have climbed before). I did Pock Wall in drizzle: reminiscent of the Moelwyns with its pocketed and slabby rock, but very short. Vic then led Sheep's Pen Buttress, a good varied pitch with a steep finish, as the rain started in earnest. Our luck then ran out and we got an absolute drenching as we ran back to the car.

Capenhurst 5k

Race: Capenhurst 5k
Time/Position: 17.07 (22nd from 300 [1st V45])
It is possible that my clueless training for yesterday's 1500m has had some other benefits. I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to middle distance training, and was slightly disappointed by my time last night as a partial result. But, to my surprise, I felt good this evening and recorded my fastest 5k time for a few years on this well-known, prestigious course. I last did it in 2010 when I just dipped under 17 minutes, but I've done lots of races round these lanes and know them very well indeed. It was a bit windy tonight, especially on the tough section out towards Two Mills, but I felt surprisingly good and began to push the pace after 3k and work up the field a bit. Tight in the V45 category, but I managed to finish in first place, again to my surprise: only 13 seconds down on my PB.

Trafford AC Grand Prix 1500m

Race: Longford Park 1500m
Time/Position: 4.41 (7th from 12, Heat 4)
The toughest distance of all, but also the shortest race I have ever done. It has taken me 500 races and 20 years of running, although we did a timed mile at Deeside earlier this summer which put the idea in my head. It wasn't my first time at the Trafford Grand Prix: four years ago, I did the 3000m on the same track at the same excellent summer meet. They are very interesting experiences, superbly slick and professional, an entirely different aspect of running (I can guarantee no other competitors were still recovering from the Maesgwm Muddle fell race). Proper middle distance running must be the hardest discipline of all with its combination of speed and endurance. This sluggish performance was no such thing, but I wanted to at least record a geriatric time before I switch to ultras next year. After watching the elite, I was placed in heat 4 and got a bit boxed in over the first two laps: I couldn't get the inside lane and was put off my stride on three occasions in the middle of a very tight group (all heats are selected by predicted time). Margins are, of course, tiny in these races and that was enough to miss my sub 4.40 target time (however, I was only 1 second slower than the time I had predicted, at 4.41.32, so not too disastrous). Most of the competitors are very young but, at 47, I was still not quite the oldest runner.

Maesgwm Muddle

Race: Maesgwm Muddle fell race (16.3k/1300m)
Time/Position: 1.51.48 (63rd from 180)
A British Championship race again, as it was the last time I did it in 2014. I found it a tad contrived then, with some arbitrary punishment in the form of illogical descents and long extensions to the natural 'reverse' horseshoe of the Moel Eilio race route. This time, I enjoyed it more, but as I was over four minutes slower that is perhaps not surprising! After fast running along the tracks to Hebron, the climb up Moel Cynhorion is a brute, but you can at least get your head down and plod up. A very steep descent (the Pedol Peris final descent) then more or less reverses the climb right back to the base of the valley, which is a tad demoralising. Thick mist and rain for the main ridge crossing, just a few metres of visibility. I have reasonable knowledge of the ridge but still had to get the map and compass out once on the descent from Moel Eilio as I couldn't remember whether the route followed the fenceline or the track. As always, it is remarkable how thick mist swallows up a big field, even a British championship field - in general, the conditions probably slowed times a bit but I've also been feeling sluggish for weeks so the time was no surprise. A long run in over the obscure spur of Cefn Du, way out to the north, then a lovely descent to Llanberis - echoing the final section of the Snowdonia marathon - as the weather finally began to clear. The final climb back to the finishing point just feels sadistic!

Independence Quarry climbing

Crag: Independence Quarry, Eglwyseg
Routes: Umpalumpa Groove (f5:led), Augustus Gloop (f6a+:led), Oh Calcutta (f6a:led), Independence Day (f6b+:sec), High Stepper (f6a+:led), Technocrat (f6a:led)
From below, this crag looks so broken and unappealing that even I had never bothered to visit before. However, the routes are much better than they look and this was a surprisingly worthwhile little session. The vegetated groove on the right wing is the easiest and probably worst route here, but it did provide a warm up and is an obvious line with a tricky finish up a steep crack. The crag is much better in the 6's, so I went for the hanging black groove to the right, which has a high first bolt and tough move over the horrible band of shale which splits all the routes. Above this, good technical climbing leads to a hard but satisfying final move up the steep wall on small holds. Further right is a steep slab of black limestone, and I led the route on the left, which also has a high first bolt and one initially puzzling move at half height. I took this on the right initially, which is very hard, and eventually unlocked it on the left, which is consistent with the grade. The 6b+ to the right gives some fine technical climbing and interesting sequences. The left-wing of the quarry looks more broken and vegetated from a distance but is again better than it looks. High Stepper is good at 6a+: an easier but interesting lower wall gives clean and enjoyable climbing to a ledge, after which the route builds to a hard and technical climax. I moved left over the steep arete, which seemed slightly off route, but a chap below reckoned that was the correct line.

Lanhydrock Parkrun

'Race': Lanhydrock Parkrun, Cornwall (5k)
Time/Position: 19.19 (1st from 286)
Supposedly the toughest Parkrun in the country, although I didn't know that before the start. It just knocks our local Wepre run into second place, with 5ft more climbing! I chose it only because of its perfect location, just off the A30 and ideally timed at one hour in to our journey home. The setting is very nice, in the grounds of Lanhydrock house, a major National Trust venue outside Bodmin. From the start, a very fast plunge down tarmac paths leads to an equally rapid fell race-style descent through woods, which all means the first half is covered unusually quickly. I worked my way up the field during the only flat section, along a pretty riverbank, before the race rears up dramatically for the last mile. A long and steep climb, gaining 270ft and reminiscent of a mild fell race came next, although it also took in a wet field with uncomfortably long grass. I thought that a young lad was in front of me, so was rather surprised to finish in first place in the 'timed run'.

St Ives bouldering round-up

Three quite well known bouldering areas dot the headlands around St Ives, and it was easy to reach them on several occasions during our week in Towednack, usually during short breaks to restore circulation when bodyboarding with the family at Porthmeor. With no mat and no spotter, I concentrated on the most obvious and visible lines from St Ives, all simple - more like short VS climbs, not really boulder problems. These included Double Overhang and longer lines at Carrick Du (Man's Head), the nice arete routes on the obvious Camel's Head (Summit Boulders above Clodgy Point), and Exposure Slab (and other routes) on the orange rocks below the Coastguard station on the Island. All of these lines, although short, were visible from various parts of the town. This morning, I left at 6am for a run over the top of Trevalgan hill to the coast path and then along to the main (best quality) sea-level section of Clodgy Point as the sun began to light the rocks: a stunning morning of perfect clarity. Sadly, the lower part of the Great Wall and other sections were wet, but I did a lot of the easier routes on the Undercut Wall, excellent rock and enjoyable climbing. I also did lines on the Star Boulder and Great Wall upper tier.