Independence Quarry climbing

Crag: Independence Quarry, Eglwyseg
Routes: Umpalumpa Groove (f5:led), Augustus Gloop (f6a+:led), Oh Calcutta (f6a:led), Independence Day (f6b+:sec), High Stepper (f6a+:led), Technocrat (f6a:led)
From below, this crag looks so broken and unappealing that even I had never bothered to visit before. However, the routes are much better than they look and this was a surprisingly worthwhile little session. The vegetated groove on the right wing is the easiest and probably worst route here, but it did provide a warm up and is an obvious line with a tricky finish up a steep crack. The crag is much better in the 6's, so I went for the hanging black groove to the right, which has a high first bolt and tough move over the horrible band of shale which splits all the routes. Above this, good technical climbing leads to a hard but satisfying final move up the steep wall on small holds. Further right is a steep slab of black limestone, and I led the route on the left, which also has a high first bolt and one initially puzzling move at half height. I took this on the right initially, which is very hard, and eventually unlocked it on the left, which is consistent with the grade. The 6b+ to the right gives some fine technical climbing and interesting sequences. The left-wing of the quarry looks more broken and vegetated from a distance but is again better than it looks. High Stepper is good at 6a+: an easier but interesting lower wall gives clean and enjoyable climbing to a ledge, after which the route builds to a hard and technical climax. I moved left over the steep arete, which seemed slightly off route, but a chap below reckoned that was the correct line.