Dyffryn Mymbyr climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Wen/Clogwyn Du (Dyffryn Mymbyr)
Routes: Direct Route (HS 4b:sec), Anos (HVS 5a:sec), Proten (HVS 5a:sec), Zigzag (VD:led), Joycean (VS 4b:sec), High Cross (E2 5b:sec), Pock Wall (S:led), Sheep's Pen Buttress (VS 4c:sec)
One of those occasions when detailed local knowledge comes into its own. It had poured down in the night, as this unstable August continues. It was obvious that the Pass crags were wet as we drove up, and it seemed likely the showers would continue. As a result, we ditched our Cromlech plans and I suggested the southern side of the Glyderau might make a good alternative, as a kind of miniature rain shadow area. This worked a treat and, although Clogwyn Wen is short, it is a fine crag of excellent clean granite: the routes are, almost without exception, good and varied. Vic kicked off with the obvious central line, Direct Route, in glorious sunshine with the rock almost completely dry. This route goes up a gently curving groove to a tricky move up steep rock to gain good holds and an easy finishing chimney. We then took the opportunity to bomb up the two fine HVS's to the right with rope above. Anos heads up to an upside down flake and massive undercut hold. A powerful layback using satisfyingly huge flake holds goes up to a ledge and thread. Proten, further right, was wet higher up but also good: heading up to a strange detached flake with small but positive holds. I then led Zigzag, an easy route up granite steps traversing diagonally left over the face. At the junction with Anos/Direct Route, I reversed back to a belay and Vic led through up the undistinguished Joycean at mild VS. The best route here is the hardest, High Cross, again done with rope above. A superb and varied pitch, it goes up an awkward groove to a very hard move with little for the feet. This gains a rest in Direct Route, before a pulsating hand traverse below the roof. Good holds and tiny ledges for the feet, which can be found if you look hard enough. At the far end of the traverse, a semi-rest, before long reaches for good side pulls and mini jugs up the steep finishing wall. Light showers passed from time to time, but our choice was thoroughly vindicated: the Pass and Snowdon stayed clagged in and wet for the entire day. After a heavier shower, we moved round to Clogwyn Du (where I have climbed before). I did Pock Wall in drizzle: reminiscent of the Moelwyns with its pocketed and slabby rock, but very short. Vic then led Sheep's Pen Buttress, a good varied pitch with a steep finish, as the rain started in earnest. Our luck then ran out and we got an absolute drenching as we ran back to the car.