Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: SND (f4:sec), Cluedo (f5c:sec), Suspect Criminal (f6b:led), Clue, So? (f4+:sec), Amateur Sleuth (f5c:led), Suspectus (f6a+:led*), Suspectus (f6a+:sec), Disappearing Act (f5:led), No Remittal (f6a:sec), Who's Sam (f4:led)
I have long maintained this is one of the worst crags in North Wales, although I've done almost all the routes under 6c so it must be tolerable! Today, after some unaccustomed March wall training, I managed to tick a few of the routes I haven't done before. The best of these was Suspect Criminal, which I led after Steve kicked off with an easy groove. This 6b takes a simple rib to a fierce pull over the overlap to gain the excellent bubbly limestone above. The holds are not obvious, and small, but they are positive and a high step got me established on the bulging finishing wall which is easier than it looks from below. Nice climbing on sharp holds gains the lower-off. Steve led the polished arete, and we then did the truly dreadful f5c to its right, sloping holds, horrible start. Suspectus is the 6a+ which takes the brown groove: I steadied myself on the second clip which is awkwardly placed at the bulge. Powerful moves up this to the break, before short-lived by much more pleasant climbing on the upper wall. I then did it clean with rope above. The polish at this venue is now a bit of an issue, giving some hard starts for the grades. Lovely weather today, superb clarity of spring light - despite the scruffy nature of the crag itself, the views over the valley to Berwyn are some of the best in north-east Wales.