Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor, Eglwyseg
Routes: Deputy Dog (f4c:sec), Dogmatic (f6a:led), Long Legged Lizard from Liverpool (f6a:led), Hornier Toad (f6b:sec), K9 (f5a:sec), Dogs of War (f6a+:sec), Chocolate Fudd (f6a+:led*), Chocolate Fudd (f6a+:sec), Betty Bop Rides Again (VS 4c:sec), Elmer J Fudd (VS 4b:led), The Fuddites (f6b:sec)
Yet another trip to this most scruffy of crags: too many recent visits. It is convenient, though, and worked for training purposes on this short outing. Steve led an easy route, and I followed up with Dogmatic, up a dirty groove at 6a. I was trying to tick the few routes I haven't done before and almost all are characterised by short, hard cruxes: the French grading system doesn't really work at this scruffy venue. Most of the shorter routes are not sustained, but have tough, usually polished cruxes. I led the easy 6a up the slab, done before, and then did Hornier Toad - hard moves above the bulge on a tiny side pull. Two more short ones, then Chocolate Fudd at 6a+. This is better, rough and textured rock, and quite sustained. Small holds lead to the arete, then moves left to clip the final bolt and a dynamic finish, quite hard for the grade. I briefly weighted the bolt: so did it again from the bottom clean. After failing on The Fuddites at 6b, I led Elmer Fudd on trad gear (an easy VS), then did it clean - a fierce pull on a mono leads to a flat hold and easier finish. Finished with a jog over the viaduct.