Melindaou ridge traverse

Peaks: Psari (1817), Psari North (1849), Mavri (1883), Melindaou (2133), Koukoule (1631)
Area: Lefka Ori, Crete
The bulky mass of Melindaou is the most obvious objective from Kallergi, and throws down an excellent ridge to the south. I had wondered whether I might get all the way to Pachnes and back from the hut, and still feel this was achievable, but a few issues put me off: first, it would have to be out-and-back, and that would mean a 40k outing with a tedious return. Second, at least three litres of water would have been required, making running difficult, and there were only bottles for sale at the hut, nothing drinkable. As a result, I decided not to stay a second night at the refuge, brilliant though it was, as it would have been a bit weird as the only guest again! A great breakfast, with local thyme honey and chocolate cake as the early morning sun streamed through the window, then it was off at slow jogging/fast walking pace down the E4 path which traverses the whole of Crete and takes a track round the various spurs and small hills towards the sheepfolds of Poria, a kind of crossroads at a notable col. Dozens of griffon vultures wheeled overhead, some at very close range. From here, there were two options - I took the weaving path up to join the top of the ridge at the first main peak of Psari. This was really good in the early morning chill, with the sun still blocked by the ridge and a few armed shepherds collecting mountain greens! From Psari, a mouth-watering prospect as views open out and a superb ridge reveals itself in front. This is a little rocky, and quite unusual for Crete given the dome-like summits characteristic of the White Mountains. The wind was quite strong and quite cool, still blowing from the north, with cloud constantly forming and dissipating over Melindaou. A short climb gained an unnamed peak north of Psari, but clearly higher than it, and then a steeper, longer climb up the ridge to Mavri: a great viewpoint. Two shepherds were moving their flocks just below me, clouds of dust blown up and away by the wind, while spectacular plumes of mist formed over Melindaou. I'd been slightly concerned about navigation but needn't have been, because after descending from Mavri I picked up the E4 again (which avoids the ridge but passes close to Melindaou). To the left, I could see Chania and the north coast, to the right a bird's eye view down the Samaria gorge to the Libyan Sea and Gavdos - Europe's most southerly point. A cold northerly whipped across the ridge and I had to put on jacket and hat near the summit after breaking off from the E4. The view was superb: across into the heart of the 'white desert' that marks the extraordinary central part of the White Mountains, a genuinely unique landscape that echoes parts of the Middle East but has an utterly barren physical character and distinctiveness that sets it apart. I moved down the ridge a little, seeking better views of the 'madares' (as the conical peaks are known), then went back to the summit to drink in the view over Samaria and Eligias gorges to the sea. Yesterday's peaks were particularly impressive from this angle, and Pachnes did look reachable albeit regrettably unfeasible in the circumstances. I descended to Poria down the E4 completing a satisfying loop: this went through a shallow valley with a couple of green meadows providing a break from the dessicated limestone. At the hut, I was reluctant to leave the mountains so extended the day by traversing the spur of Koukoule to its highpoint, another tremendous vantage point: Melindaou looks very bulky from this angle, and Volakias is also impressive. Superb cloudscapes. I had the last of my pitta and taramasalata, then descended back to Xyloscala.