Presolana traverse

Peaks: Monte Visolo (2369m), Presolana Occidentale (2521m)
Routes: Via Normale (PD+/II+)
Area: Presolana, Orobie Alps
The 'Queen of the Orobie', as the Presolana is known to the Bergamaschi, has considerable local significance. Not surprising, as it is a dominant feature of the landscape, a kind of 'mini-Dolomite' range that is notable even from the higher peaks further north. From the window of our room in the Coca hut, we'd watched the northern walls change colour constantly in the prevailing weather, and from the south (and particularly Castione, where we were staying) it dominates the landscape. In short, it was essential that we made the effort from our Castione hotel. For various reasons, we were late setting off from the Passo de la Presolana just above our lodging, but we ploughed through the woods to the Baita Casinelli hut in well under an hour, before branching off the vague side path through delightful Alpine meadows towards Monte Visolo, a subpeak on the right of the range. The views from here to the Presolana, which presents a wall of limestone spires from this angle, are superb - classically Alpine with a pastoral foreground of meadows and copses, and a savage backdrop. The path weaved around, and contoured well to the right before embarking on the long climb up the obvious broad SE ridge. Superb views higher up down Valle Richetti to various limestone spires and across to the Adamello and beyond. Mist poured down from the top of the main ridge as we reached the summit of Visolo, but it seemed benign, so after a snack we scrambled down to the obvious col below Presolana Orientale and embarked on a wonderful traverse below the main ridge. In places, this crossed couloirs, snow patches and steep scree and was wonderful throughout with a couple of chained sections. It led to the open landscape above the Clusone bivouac hut. From here, a steep haul up scree leads to the Grotta del Pagani, a deep cave in the cliffs. This is where the Via Normale begins. In many ways, for many reasons, we were in reccie mode throughout, but it all went like a dream, they day unfolding naturally again, rather than us pushing it. Mist spilled down the ridge, and it was early afternoon by now, but the scrambling was superb. An initial slabby wall of limestone leads to a large open couloir, then a traverse left across a steep gully to a chain that allows for a steep pull to gain a wall taken on big holds up to an easier ridge. This is long, and goes up to a very high, steep limestone wall. We traversed left underneath this until reaching a weakness, a shallower broad couloir leading to the summit ridge. The initial stages of this are the most technical on the route, II+, but none of these sections lasts very long, and it never feels particularly exposed. It curves round to find the easiest line, taking one delicate slab to gain a broad, shallow and easy gully, mainly walking, to the summit ridge. At this point, the fohn effect kicked in with the mist we'd experienced on the south face peeling away to stunning blue skies on the north. To our right, the main summit of Presolana Occidentale just a few hundred metres away. Ahead, a vertical drop to the northern valleys and over to Val Seriana and our peaks of a few days ago: Pizzo Coca obvious. We then enjoyed a magical half hour, walking along the narrow ridge to the summit, drinking in the views. We then traversed across to the minor summit west of the gap and along the Cresta di Valzurio for a little bit. The cloudscape changed constantly, wisps of cloud then blocks of mist then bright sunshine. It was mesmerising. Eventually we tore ourselves away and descended the steep gully back to the technical section. It all went easily and enjoyably and we explored the Pagani cave at the bottom of the route before taking a few minutes to rest in the Clusone bivouac - extraordinarily comfortable, warm, well-appointed, state of the art. We ambled down the Valle dell Ombra, all new terrain again, the trade route down the valley, and popped into the Cassinelli refuge lower down. After a glorious beer and water outside, looking up to the Presolana as the limestone walls constantly changed colour in the light, we jogged down the normal route to the top of the pass: new terrain again.