Pizzo Coca traverse

Peaks: Pizzo di Coca (3050m)
Routes: South Ridge/Via Normale (PD:II)
Area: Orobie Alps, Italy
A magnificent traverse of the highest peak in the Orobie Alps, the essence of what I have always enjoyed more than any other form of mountain activity. As with yesterday, the day unfolded gradually in logical fashion with us adopting a relaxed approach, sensibly and necessarily responding to conditions rather then 'summit at all costs'. A late start, by Alpine standards, after breakfast at the Curo hut, then walking around the stunning Lago Barbellino with magnificent views back to yesterday's peak: the Recastello, which looks superb from this angle. High cloud overhead, weather prospects not entirely obvious. After the annoying descent below the dam (hundreds of chamois feeding on the dam wall, an amazing sight) to the base of the Valmorta, we had a steep reascent to pick up the adventurous GR route that heads over the Bocchetta del Camoscio to the Coca refuge (the normal route is much lower down). After a bit of scrambling up short rock walls, the path contours the tight valley of the Valmorta (Death Valley) and really starts to penetrate this wild corner of the Orobie, heading relentlessly up below Pizzo Cappuccello and Pizzo del Diavolo, to eventually ease off and open out dramatically at the remote Lago di Valmorta. This was stunning: a lake and flat green meadow, very isolated, set among superb mountain scenery. The onward route was absolutely relentless, up very steep scree and moraine material to gain the lip of the hanging valley which gives access to the Bocchetta. The fact that a GR route goes up here seemed remarkable: very complex and adventurous terrain, particularly in these snowy conditions. The Bocchetta itself was obvious - a tiny col between Coca and its subsidiary - but the route was certainly not. A steepening snow slope - kahtoolas just about adequate - gained the sanctuary of rock slabs, then the complex, weaving upward route begins. First, this curves right up little walls, and eventually gains a series of little chimneys interspersed with traverses (one of which was steep and tricky, on snow, step-kicking required). The whole route was absorbing and superb, and the weather was improving continually, the high cloud burning away and deep blue skies emerging. The route keeps you guessing throughout, but eventually eases just before the Bocchetta is gained. I basked in the sunshine in this magnificent location, but then heard a distant shout. Steve, well behind, had lost the tenuous route and needed some advice. I scampered back down the top section and we sorted it out, regrouping at the col and dumping some of our kit before embarking on the 1000ft climb up to the summit of Pizzo di Coca. This was absolutely superb: with the steepest section towards the start, up a long but easy chimney with good solid scrambling, giving access to sloping ledges heading right of the ridge up scree. Then came the trickiest route-finding, up a steepish and quite long wall to gain a level and well-defined section of ridge. The hut warden had told us there was no snow on this section, and it proved the case - one patch easily circumvented on the left by a few steep moves on rock. Then came the final summit tower, gained easily via a weaving path and a few short scrambly steps. Steve joined me, and my error on the Recastello yesterday was forgiven as we spent a memorable few minutes enjoying the magnificent views from the highest peak in the Orobie. The peaks over the Austrian border were notable, but the most obvious landmarks were Monte Disgrazia and the Adamello, as well as Pizzo Redorta and Punta di Scais across the nearest valley. It was beginning to cloud over, but it remained high as we descended back to the Bocchetta and the sacks. This needed care but we despatched it quickly, meeting up with numerous chamois towards the bottom ('camoschi' translates as chamois, so the col was well named). The onward route, down to the Coca hut, was much easier than this morning's ascent, clearly far more frequently travelled, and the normal route up Pizzo di Coca. A snowfield led past more chamois to a moraine and long rocky section down to a superb grassy ridge with fabulous views across the valley containing the turquoise Lago di Coca to the steep walls of Pizzo Redorta, festooned with a dozen tight snow gullies. We were beginning to tire, and seriously dehydrate, so made the lake a target. It was another stupendous spot, hemmed in by steep walls on all sides, giving an ice cold paddle and relief for the feet. After rehydrating, we followed the crashing outflow stream down the green valley which led eventually to the magnificently located Rifugio Coca. I have stayed in many huts over many years, but this proved one of the best: immense character in an unrivalled position on the lip of the hanging valley overlooking the Val Seriana. The most notable peaks were, gratifyingly, Pizzo Recastello (done yesterday) and, much further south, the Presolana (which we later climbed on Friday). Again, Steve and I had a room to ourselves, and another magnificent meal: asparagus risotto, pasta with pancetta and mushroom, and more beef and Bergamo-style solid polenta. A violent storm blew up, the hut in the clouds, heavy hail. Then it dissipated giving mesmerising views across the valley from our bedroom window.