Peaks: Moelwyn Bach, Craigysgafn, Moelwyn Mawr, Moel yr Hydd, Foel Ddu, Allt Fawr, Moel Druman, Pt 672, Mynydd Llynau yr Cwn, Ysgafell Wen, Moel Meirch, Cerrig Cochion, Carnedd y Cribau, Clogwyn Bwlch y Maen, Moel Siabod, Pen Llithrig y Wrach, Pen yr Helgi Du, Carnedd Llywellyn, Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Fras, Drum, Carnedd y Ddelw, Foel Lwyd, Tal y Fan (44 miles/3850m/12.55hrs)
Area: Moelwynion/Carneddau, Eryri
I had originally intended to make a Paddy Buckley attempt this weekend - but to say I had not had the ideal week of preparation is an understatement, after a very stressful 72 hour delay in Italy. My head was, most definitely, 'not in the right place', as the modern cliche would put it. However, all was not lost, as I had a fine alternative up my sleeve. For some time now, I have been struck by the obvious (to me, at least) 'Sea to Sea' run from Porthmadog to Conwy taking in every peak lying naturally en route. I persuaded Peter to join me, he liked the concept, so it was that we dipped our feet into Cardigan Bay at 6.50am this morning, ready to traverse 25 peaks on our way to Conwy harbour and the north coast, into which we intended to dip our feet 'some time' later. From Porthmadog, we jogged alongside the estuary, then took the path next to the railway below the Tremadog crags to Prenteg. This eventually gains the road that kinks east to Garreg, before branching off for Croesor. All this is fairly lengthy and a little dull, but - crucially - I got the route-finding right, then found the right path east towards Moelwyn Bach (via Gareg Fawr and Pen yr Allt in a continuous line to the 'path' up the boggy valley leading to Bwlch Stwlan). This heads through woods to conifers, then finally gains the open hill above Pen yr Allt. The weather was humid, misty, drizzly - contrary to the forecast. Not great for morale. We cut right well before Bwlch Stwlan through little crags to gain steep slopes that eventually come out on the Moelwyn race route (done in May, so fresh in the memory). On the summit, the mist began to peel away giving great views back down to Porthmadog, already very distant - and we had barely begun our day (one peak down, 24 to go). I was determined not to retrace a single step, as the concept was for an elegant, logical, linear route. Essentially, the route then heads relentlessly north, over Craigysgafn and Moelwyn Mawr before the more industrial peaks of Moel yr Hydd and Foel Ddu, down to a water source in the quarry buildings above Cwm Orthin. We deliberately missed out Cnicht, as it is not on the obvious line and would require a contrived detour - therefore not in the spirit of the route. On this section, the presence of slate, Blaenau and industry is never far away. A bank of mist rolled in for the next section, which takes in Allt Fawr (on a limb slightly) before running along the edge of Llyn Conglog to Moel Druman. I reccied all this section in April, and have done it a couple of times before. It is quiet for good reason: it doesn't involve much climbing but it is very long and has lots of awkward terrain: thick heather, bog, boulders, indistinct paths. I would say it is easier in this direction, as Ysgafell Wen and Moel Meirch are easier to locate. It is then a very long haul to the top of Siabod, where the sun finally came out. I had estimated around 7 hours from Port to Capel, and this is exactly how long it took - and we met Jim (unexpectedly) and Hayley (pre-arranged) in Capel for a very welcome feed and half hour break. I should have taken on more water, however, as I knew the next leg has nothing - having done it a few times before. A jog along the road, feeling refreshed, then a quick ascent - now as a trio with Hayley fresh from her BG success - of Pen Llithrig y Wrach in ever-improving conditions. Great views over Cowlyd then across to the Carneddau, although this was arguably the toughest climb of the day. Over Helgi Du, hoping for water on the flanks of Llewellyn but not finding any in the dry conditions. Misty on Llewellyn, the day's highpoint, but I know this entire section like the back of my hand, and we soon emerged on the Carneddau motorway over Foel Grach to Foel Fras. I felt quite good for this section, despite dehydration, and we continued to set a decent pace over Drum and Carnedd y Ddelw to Bwlch y Ddaefaen, very much 'home ground' for me. The end was now in sight (literally, depending on terrain) and the evening sun glorious for the very steep climb up Foel Lwyd: by now we were all badly dehydrated and it was becoming a bit of an issue. We ploughed on, over Tal y Fan (a crucial part of the 25 peak haul - as the concept was a logical line taking in all the peaks that naturally occur on route, with this one having a particular significance for me) to finally get to the stream above Llangelynin. We spent some time drinking and eating, and then it is down to the track above the old church, and the familiar three miles of tarmac road through Henryd and into Conwy. We ran past the Albion and down to the waterfront, descending the jetty in front of the Liverpool Arms to stand in the sea, in beautiful evening sunshine, just under 13 hours after dipping our feet in Cardigan Bay this morning. It all worked perfectly: the route is as satisfying, elegant and meaningful as I had hoped it would be.
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