Arantzazu hidden path loop

Our final morning, and it dawned clear and fresh from our rooms overlooking the gorge and sanctuary of Arantzazu. I wanted one final outing, and this route seemed to offer a chance to explore the bottom of the gorge that I'd been looking down on from the balcony. I ran it, from outside the hotel to the path along the streambed of the Urkullu Erreka. The path then curves round the shoulder of Arriona, a small peak, to head north-west below Aitzabal to eventually gain the gorge (Arantzazu Erreka). A very steep climb on zigzags up limestone shelves, almost 1000ft of climbing, gives a tough sting in the tail. Just over 44 minutes for the 7.5k route, much of that taken up by the final climb! Then it was down to Bilbao for pintxos, then the flight home.

Basque ridge wandering

Peaks: Aizkorri (1523m), Aitzabal (1508m), Irralabeltxeko (1533m), Aketegi (1548m), Aitxuri (1551m), Iraule (1511m), Arbelaitz (1506m), Kantoizulueta (1410m), Andreaitz (1419m)

Area: Gipuzkoa, Euskadi/Basque Country

Unlike the peaks around Riano, I have long been aware of these mountains in the heart of the Basque Country and wanted to visit them for cultural reasons alongside the usual scenic and sporting reasons. It seemed to make sense, and to complete a rewarding loop at the end of our week-long trip. From Leon, we'd driven to Euskadi and stayed in Maturana near Vitoria-Gasteiz. The main spine of the Basque mountains is to be found above the sanctuary of Arantzazu in Gipuzkoa, which has some case to be considered the heartland (although Kate and I stayed in Gernika in 2000, which is another). Certainly, Arantzazu had a powerful sense of place, with little visible Spanish and was a wonderful place to spend the night (in the Gipuzkoan interior, even an ill-informed visitor would realise they're not in Spain!). We left the hotels and restaurants that have grown up around the Catholic sanctuary, then headed up the very well worn path to the meadows of Urbia, where there is an uber Basque refuge complete with political slogans. The low valley of the Urzabalerreka opens out into green meadows, close cropped, below the sidepeak of Elorralaka Haitza. Above, the limestone ridge we were aiming for. The main peak is Aizkorri, where 90% of walkers head for (although it is not the highpoint). The path contours rightwards across the hillside, very worn and polished limestone. It was all quite a contrast to the untrodden mountains of Leon! The summit is surprisingly well-defined and has a tiny hut just below it (bearing the slogan 'free Basque prisoners' in English). Then, the ridge just unfolds in front (Aizkorri it the far end, although there are some lower peaks like Umandia further down still). To the north and east, green Basque valleys stretched out with little towns like Onati nestled among them. The full ridge crest from Aizkorri was always the plan, although Peter had dropped behind and unfortunately gone up the wrong peak first. We sorted ourselves out eventually, and kept religiously to the crest for the wonderfully enjoyable trip across a galaxy of minor peaks, all of which had attractive Basque names. In other environments, not all of these would have been named, but in a region of mountain enthusiasts, they had been. Highlights are hard to pick out, but Aitzabal was rocky and gave a scramble, while Aitxuri was notable as a distinctive peak (especially when seen from Aizkorri) and also the Basque highpoint. The most impressive and enjoyable of all the summits, however, was Arbelaitz, which looked hard from a distance, but wasn't. It was gained by shelves of limestone and a narrow ridge which dropped to a col before rising via runnels of limestone to a small summit. After Arbelaitz, the ridge loses its definition and becomes a jumble of sinkholes, meadows and beautiful archetypal limestone scenery. We did two further peaks in this complex and very distinctive terrain, finishing with a handshake on Andreitz, the final peak of the trip. It was then a simple matter to jog down springy turf to the refuge for lunch of beer and an enormous sandwich of hot chorizo with roasted red peppers. The journey down was enlivened by a griffon vulture convention - at least 40 gathered around a carcass with the little hill of Gorostiaran beyond. We ran flat out back to Arantzazu from Urbia (22 minutes), which was nice after all the slow progress. A storm blew in just as we got to the car - the first unstable weather of the trip! We couldn't locate a nearby campsite so ended up spending a memorable night at the Hotel Sindika overlooking the gorge and sanctuary, with a balcony each and a great little bar. It poured down in the early evening.

Liegos horseshoe

Peaks: Pena de las Canales (1646m), Pena de la Cruz (1829m), Pico de Recacabiello (1847m), Pico Mediodia (1865m)

Area: Liegos, Leon

Even a week later, this traverse still seems like a dream. We knew little about the area, and could find nothing online in Spanish, let alone English. Yesterday's mountain, Pico Gilbo, had some coverage and well-defined paths, as did the striking and curiously named peak of Yordas, but the latter was a little too remote from metalled roads to be feasible this morning, as we had a long drive in the afternoon. We opted instead to drive to Liegos and try our luck on these peaks, which we could vaguely identify as existing from google maps! Our hotel, in Boca de Herguano, was comfortable and on the route of the Camino Santiago, but a fair drive to Liegos, which was a beautifully located, sleepy hamlet. Limestone peaks rose above the village, and it was immediately obvious (and unsurprising) that there were no paths and no defined routes. We made our way upwards through the streets to gain the open hill at a cow meadow - the lower valley marked Arroyo de la Hoz on the map. We had to avoid woodland, so struck up the very steep spur directly above the village - this was mainly grass with some crags, and woods to the right. By keeping to the fringe, we made upward progress past some chamois higher up. Often, this kind of pathless exploration goes wrong, becoming impossible due to maquis or unexpected terrain issues. Today, however, it just unfolded like a book - lovely ridges that flowed towards distinctive peaks, and exquisite scenery throughout. I gained the ridge itself immediately above the treeline, which led to a little wall of limestone. Climbing this gained a narrow ridge of grass and limestone with stunning views. It was an unbelievably clear morning, with all peaks perfectly, even the high Picos further north. Closer at hand, lots of interesting and obscure limestone mountains with nobody in sight. It felt like we were the first people ever to come up here. An awkward descent into a gap before more good scrambling led to another forepeak and then a broader grassy col, from which we gained the first named summit - Pena de las Canales, along with a herd of chamois. Stunning valleys and peaks on all sides. The route then changed character. The main, most impressive peak was ahead - Pena de la Cruz. We worked out a line that seemed obvious, taking a diagonal weakness, then worked out a way to get across to it. This took a broad grassy ridge, like the Carneddau, across to the Collada de la Hoz. The way was blocked by a loose looking crag, so we traversed this along shelves on the left to gain another broad green col, the Collada de la Pena. From here, we deployed the plan. Diagonally upwards to gain a huge boulder, 40ft high, which we passed on the right. This gained the diagonal weakness we had identified, which led easily (perhaps a vague semblance of a path?) upwards across the mountain until it became possible to head directly upwards and then gain a ridge, which is much wider than it looks from below. It felt like a mountain above Glen Shiel, with little rocky outcrops leading to a well-defined and delightful summit - a wonderful viewpoint. From here, we could have descended the very steep ridge back to the village. But the continuation ridge looked even better, and actually looked a more comfortable way of getting back to Liegos. Appearances were not deceptive, and the ridge was superbly enjoyable. It was never hard or precipitous, but it was well-defined and absorbing throughout. Fairly narrow at first down to a little col, then just glorious as it rose above the Collado de las Traviesas. No sign of any kind of path or traffic, just picking our way up, the standard comparable to a mild Welsh scramble, Y Gribin perhaps. Eventually, we gained the forepeak of Pico de Recacabiello and then the main summit, Pico Mediodia, which had some kind of mast on top. The descent was through thick heather, reminding us of home, until we gained the beautiful pastoral valley of the Arroyo de Recacabiello. A dead horse marred this slightly, until we gained pastures and woodland curving gently down and giving us much needed shade back down to Liegos. A long drive to the Basque country ensued, broken by a stupendous lunch in Velilla del Rio Carrion.

Pico Gilbo

Peaks: Pico Gilbo (1679m)

Routes: East Ridge (PD+ III: Led p.2,4,6)

Area: Riano, Leon

With some inevitability, Pico Gilbo is known as the Matterhorn of Leon for its elegant outline and tapering spire. When seen from Riano, however, this range of peaks actually looks more like Arctic Norway. This is because a series of reservoirs (which look natural but presumably are not) lends an astonishing foreground to a series of stark white spires: it recalls Lofoten or Skye. Pico Gilbo is by far the most accessible of the mountains, which are little known to foreigners, and gives a classic scramble by its East Ridge. We parked at the far end of the long Norway-style bridge from Riano and set off round the Esla 'rio' to gain tangled woodland and an awkward, very hot route up the valley east of Pena Vallarque. This was tenuous, but eventually we emerged from the woods into a verdant hollow - comfortable meadows and, finally, a view of our objective. The East Ridge rises above the little col that is also key to the normal route and looks quite steep from this angle (although it looks even steeper from Riano). All of this is an illusion, of course, as it is little more than a scramble in reality. We headed up to the col, then started the ridge, initially up a delightful series of limestone crags until it steepened. We roped up, and Peter led up a little wall to a traverse rightward and up to a belay. I then led up the ridge to a small steepening, and we continued in this vein until my 4th, which took a horizontal semi-knife edge to a niche and an old peg. It is never remotely hard or serious, but this makes it all very enjoyable - and a nice breeze took the edge of the 35C temperature at mid-afternoon. The 5th pitch crossed a gap and then went up steeper rock to an open grassy bay. Finally, I led up a loose and quite steep chimney to the end of the difficulties. The summit is a wonderful place with truly stunning views: and we had it to ourselves. Below, the Rio Elsa provided a perfect turquoise base to the sparkling white peaks with green forests on their slopes. Yordas and Penas Pintas were particularly impressive. Further north, the pyramidal spire of Pena Prieta caught the eye. After some delightful lazing around, we descended the normal route on the western side of Gilbo to pick up some variation paths back down to the lakeside and car. 

Pico de la Devesa

Peaks: Pico de la Devesa (1853m)

Area: Puerto de San Gloria, Leon

The boundary of Green Spain and stereotypical 'yellow' Spain (not its formal title!) is essentially this range of hills, spanning the ridgeline along the Puerto de San Gloria, which marks the border between Cantabria and Leon. I vividly remember driving to Leon from Asturias in 2000 and descending into the baked valleys of the south. Today, we had a classic illustration of this extraordinary geographical and climatic boundary, as we set off from Fuente De in drizzle and mist, climbing up for miles towards the Puerto de San Gloria. It was dank and cool at the top of the pass, a stiff breeze blowing, but we thought it would be nice to take in one of the peaks on this most important of watersheds. Coriscao was too far in the conditions, so we opted to run up Pico de la Devesa instead. This worked well, straight up a fire track initially, which gave way to tangled maquis and a steep rise before a final spire of conglomerate which gave a brief scramble to a little summit cairn. The mist never quite cleared enough for us to realise we were possibly on the wrong peak (Pena de la Nava, perhaps, all the map was unclear), although it did break up spectacularly as we descended. This revealed some wild valleys, like the Portillo del Boqueron, to the east. Green Spain stayed in the mist and drizzle as we descended and then, rapidly, the yellow valleys of Leon became sun-drenched and baked as the cloud dissolved.

Pena Remona, Torre Alcacero

Peaks: Torre Alcacero (2247m), Pena Remona (2227m)

Area: Picos de Europa, Cantabria

Pena Remona is the subject of a million tourist photos from Fuente De and the top of El Cable. It is lower than surrounding peaks, but a striking mountain of tiered limestone that looks particularly good from the car park. After a night in Potes, we drove back to Fuente De and pitched tents in the tranquil El Redondo. It was too late, and far too hot, when we set off for the notoriously steep slog up the Canal del Embudo as a result. These 'canals' are typical Picos features, but unlike those on our return leg yesterday, this was in full midday sunshine with the steep walls concentrating the heat. The path weaves around the broad lower part of the gully before traversing up higher and higher on the right-hand wall. It certainly gains height quickly but I was shedding a lot of water. A few shelves higher up eventually gain the Collado de Liordes, almost 1000 metres above. Here, the day changes completely because ahead is the dreamlike meadow of the Vega de Liordes. I had been here before, with Kate in 2000, and vividly remember it - in fact, it is my clearest memory of that trip. An almost level green meadow high and hidden above the valleys, with horses and cows grazing, surrounded by shimmering limestone peaks and spires. The onward route to Pena Remona was not obvious, but I picked my way across broken rock to a little gully where I picked up a series of tiny cairns. These weaved up the steep slopes, a mixture of grass, scree and open rock. It was hard but satisfying and enjoyable. As I approached the top of the ridge, I spied a cross further right and decided I would head there first (there are four different peaks on the ridge). I gained a little col, then a short wall led to a narrow ridge - which was short-lived and gave access to a final little rock scramble. This peak turned out to be Torre Alcacero, so I retraced my steps to gain the normal (still fairly tenuous) route up Pena Remona itself, with its summit a mini-pyramid. The views throughout were tremendous - with sheer drops to Fuente De and Espinama on one side. To the west, Torre de Salinas towers over the Vega. Then to the north, the high peaks of the central massif. Again, crystal clear throughout, despite the fact that it was early afternoon. Peter and I had split up on the climb but met again on the summit of Remona. He decided to drop down the steep slopes direct to Fuente De and our camp, while I decided to return direct to the Vega de Liordes, to spend more time in this wonderful place and perhaps to head over the pass to make a circuit (I remember doing that with Kate). The descent was a little more comfortable and better defined, and I rested near the shepherd's hut at the far side of the vega. The issue was water: it had been so hot in the gully that my 1.5 litres was running out, so I decided to make a high loop tracing the edges of the Vega, drinking it in from every angle, then make a speed descent of the Canal del Embudo. Not what I would normally do, retracing steps like this, but the Canal is so spectacular that I gained an entirely different perspective on the way down, which was predictably hot, dusty and arduous. At the bottom, slightly desperate, I plunged into the Fuente De cafeteria for a memorable can of Pepsi, then refuelled on Cantabrian beef cheeks at El Redondo.

Refugio Ubeda to Espinama (Picos Traverse day two)

Peaks: La Garmona (2286m)

Area: Picos de Europa, Asturias/Cantabria

If yesterday was something of a standard trade route, traversing the Picos from south to north, we selected a more ambitious return south, through less travelled and wonderfully wild terrain. Both days were a perfect illustration of the central reality of the Picos: it is so compact that one day is easily adequate to get from one side to the other. The initial key to the day was the Canal de la Celada: a deep and hidden valley obscured by the stunning Naranjo. After porridge and a leisurely start, we packed the tents and enjoyed the wonderful play of light as mist rolled up from the valleys then dispersed. We found the small path leading from the hut to the dramatic entrance to the Celada. This then gave a superb onward route, in the shadow between gigantic limestone walls. Some scrambling led steeply up to rocky shelves and finally a broad col below the easier side of the Naranjo de Bulnes. The onward view was superb, remote-feeling and very dramatic. The deep Jou tras el Pico was below and right, with the Naranjo immediately behind us. Ahead, a bowl of rock with steep walls on all sides. We knew there was only one way through, and eventually spied traces of a path up the scree to the tiny, hidden Collado Bonita below several pinnacles and peaks, including La Morra. A level path leads to an awkward section of smooth slabs, steep in places, which eventually gained the shifting scree higher up. This gave a very arduous ascent, luckily still in shade, reminiscent of the Maritime Alps. Finally, we emerged blinking into the sunshine at the tiny narrow col. Another party was already there, and more people were behind - but from here, we saw nobody at all in one of the remoter and least trodden corners of the Picos. The view from the collado (a classic Alpine breche, very narrow and the only feasible route through) was stunning and is considered one of the classic viewpoints of the Picos. The Naranjo towered behind with a cloud inversion still visible to the north. Ahead, new terrain over to the Eastern Massif and ahead towards the south. The descent was very steep initially, then curved round to the Hoyacon de Villasobrada - where the path became tenuous and the landscape even more special. A herd of rebeccos (chamois) broke cover and we weaved through very complex terrain of sinkholes, runnels and very rough limestone ridges. This gave very challenging route-finding throughout and would have been impossible in mist. We traversed the Torre de Santiago then negotiated the terrain below Torre Navarro. We lost the path once, then dropped much lower to pick up a clearer path, with some relief, that I felt must lead to our target of the Coteras Rojos. It did indeed, and the rocks got redder as it climbed. Gradually, Pena Vieja - yesterday's peak - came into view albeit from a different angle. A bit more climbing, and the views opened out - all navigational mysteries solved. Above, Vieja and the Canalona col. Ahead, a steep descent to the green meadows around Refugio Aliva and the prospect of water. First, though, we took in the nearby peak of La Garmona, an obvious viewpoint. This gave a little scramble to a small summit which forms one end of a mini range of peaks, which look stunning from the Aliva side. Even La Garmona looks deceptively hard and sheer. After a bite, we continued downwards. This was steep and hard at first, but just as we were beginning to anticipate the luxury of level ground and green meadows, the ground drops away and the route enters the Canal del Vidrio. Vidrio translates as 'glass', a clue to its character. An exposed traverse led to a series of scrambly shelves and then steep scree, taking an intricate and arduous route downwards - a classic sting in the tail. I suspect the Canal del Vidrio has some local notoriety. Finally, level bouldery terrain and then the joy of a track to the Aliva refuge. This was rather too high end for us, so after a drink we jogged across beautiful green meadows to the Portillas del Boqueron. Just below this, we came back in signal and received the unwelcome news that we would be quarantined on our return to the UK meaning that I would have to cancel the Ireland trip. This left a sour taste after a wonderful two day traverse and rather spoiled the ending - a long series of tracks. As these entered the pastoral meadows and woods above Espinama, I began to recognise them from 20 years ago. K and I spent two nights in Espinama. This time, we headed straight back to the car, and after a drink headed to Potes.

Espinama to Refugio Ubeda (Picos Traverse day one)

Peaks: Pena Vieja (2613m), Torre de Los Horjados Rojos (2506m)

Area: Picos de Europa

A few months ago, it seemed very unlikely that there would be any kind of overseas travel this year. By my reckoning, I have had an overseas mountain trip every year since 1989 (when I went to Arctic Norway after my first year of university), so it was nice to continue that streak in such a disastrous era. We had originally planned to go to Corsica, but that (along with Madeira and Sicily) had been cancelled. So another roll of the dice saw us setting off for Bilbao, intent on returning to the Picos for the first time since Kate and I visited just over 20 years ago in early summer 2000. We stayed outside Potes after a long and busy drive full of Spanish/Basque weekenders, then up to Fuente De, which I remembered clearly. It was a perfect Saturday morning, and absolutely packed to the point that I had to drop Peter off, then drive down to Espinama (where K and I stayed 20 years ago), then run back. A long queue for the cable ensued but I had reserved, and eventually we were away and up to El Cable at the edge of the Hoyos de Lloroza and the high peaks of the Picos. It wasn't far off midday, yet the clarity of light was stunning. Pena Remona draws the eye initially, as does Pico de Padierna, which I did on my last visit. We had two days worth of food and kit, however, and were intent on a high traverse to Refugio Ubeda via a peak or two. Initially, this path is very busy (as it was in 2000) as it is so accessible, but it thins out after the crag of La Vueltona. Peter missed the turn for Pena Vieja but I called him back, we hid most of the gear, and ploughed upwards for the Collado de la Canalona, a small col and the key to the ascent of Pena Vieja. I had tried to get Kate up this in 2000, but we retreated from the convex and snow-plastered slopes (early season). Today, no problem at all - this is a simple ascent but very rewarding. From the little col, a contouring path leads to the final climb up Pena Vieja, which steepens to slabby shelves below the summit, which is a fairly narrow ridge with superb views across the range. It's one of the highest peaks of the Picos, and a great start to the trip. We scampered back to the col and down to lunch at our hidden sacs before rejoining the main path, and the hordes for the route beyond Cabana Veronica to the major pass of Horcados Rojos in the heart of the range. From here, we too the opportunity to bag Torre de los Horcados Rojos at 2506m. This has an even better view than Vieja, as it is 100m lower and in the middle of the range. Superb clarity over Tesorero, the Naranjo de Bulnes (for the first time) and Torre Cerrado further west. The peak had a little double summit with narrow connecting ridge and griffon vultures flew beneath us, no more than 100 metres away. Back down the col, from where the onward route south is not obvious at all initially. The route down to the Jour de los Boches (the Picos is characterised by barren 'hollows' of this kind) is very steep, a headwall of rock, and the only feasible route curves rightwards before taking a series of cables and good scrambling sections slanting downwards. This was all fairly absorbing and very enjoyable. At the base of the cwm, I rested on a low rock and drank the rest of my water (I'd carried almost two litres), gambling on the Ubeda refuge being fairly close. Water is a big issue, of course. The rest of the route was wonderful, with the towering walls of the Neveron and Pardida left and the Naranjo coming into view ahead. An even more hostile hollow is traversed, the Jou Sin Tierre, and then a rolling base of mist began to form ahead as we crested a short rise to the green meadow of the Vega de Urriellu and the hut, all made possible by a spring. To the right, the genuinely stupendous sight of the West Face of the Naranjo de Bulnes, undoubtedly one of the most spectacular pieces of rock in Europe and one of the continent's finest sights. We pitched the tents in a beautiful limestone hollow and enjoyed a wonderful evening of shifting mists, cloud inversions in the northern valleys, and beer and crisps from the refuge (it was easy to forget about Covid in the mountains, but you remember as soon as you reach the hut, with masks, no dining, and no free movement).

Conwy-Mymbyr (Low Route/Ffordd Isaf)

The return leg, leaving at 7am and heading through Conwy to Henryd. Then a delightful series of quiet, twisting lanes through Rowen, before the very steep lane from Pontwgan to Llanbedr y Cennin, which feels like you're climbing straight back into the heart of the Carneddau for a while. There was probably a better way to do this section, but it was all very scenic. From Llanbedr, I dropped down to Tal y Bont where a pavement leads to Dolgarrog - the only main road section. Then I took the Pipe Dream steps through Coed Dolgarrog. These are immensely steep but gain height very rapidly, and ultimately lead via the pipe to the contouring track which leads lengthily but gently up into Cwm Cowlyd. I inspected the derelict farm at Garreg and then took the awkward bridleway along the west shore of Cowlyd. From the lip of Cowlyd it is plain, if boggy, sailing down to Ogwen and Capel - before a rather dull haul along Dyffryn Mymbyr to the car - 2:58 from Conwy, over an hour less than yesterday's 'haute route', so I was back in Hod by 11am.

Mymbyr-Conwy (Haute Route/Ffordd Uchaf)

Peaks: Foel Goch, Carnedd Llewellyn, Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Fras, Drum, Carnedd y Ddelw
Area: Glyderau/Carneddau, Eryri
Definitely a day for deploying crowd-avoiding tactics, with Ogwen rammed and 500 cars at Pen y Pass. Just a mile or two away, I had a lay-by to myself in Dyffryn Mymbyr, and saw nobody at all on my pathless trudge over the Glyderau. This was conceived as a mini-version of last July's Sea-to-Sea Porthmadog-Conwy traverse, but with a return next morning. It worked well, although the Miner's Track from PyG was the real plan (crowds put paid to that). Instead, I started just before PyG at pt 259 below Nant Ddu, heading north-east: I crested the Glyders just below Foel Goch and dropped down to the lonely col between it and Gallt yr Ogof. This is entirely pathless but I hit it bang on by instinct, which was nice. From there, down the tussocky Nant yr Ogof (also visited last year) to Gwern Gof Isaf in Ogwen. Over the A5 then up the tarmac to Ffynnon Llugwy and Bwlch Eryl Farchog. There were groups around, but numbers were never that high, in stark contrast to the honeypots. Indeed, I had the summit of Carnedd Llewellyn to myself unbelievably given the post-lockdown clamour. The weather had been near-perfect to that point - warm and sunny - but banks of mist rolled in as I took on the very familiar run north over Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian and Foel Fras. It cleared again completely for Drum and Carnedd y Ddelw. As usual, the full traverse of the Carneddau is a thirsty affair. I have done it several times in both directions, and there is no water at all on the main ridge line. From Cae Coch, I ran to Garnedd Wen and stopped to scoop from one of the streams. From Garnedd Wen, the long run down the lanes to Conwy is always a little painful - 4 hours to Conwy from Mymbyr. Shower and refuelling in Hod.

Berwyn loop

Peaks: Cadair Bronwen, Cadair Berwyn, Craig Berwyn, Moel Sych
Area: Berwyn
With restrictions lifted, I had no desire to brave the crowds in Ogwen or the Clwydians, so headed immediately to an old favourite circuit which is always empty. I did my favourite version of the loop, parking in Llandrillo and heading up the steep road and track to Moel Ty Uchaf (for me, the most wonderful stone circle of all, but you wouldn't want that widely known!). The track turns right and heads straight up the open hillside to eventually gain the summit of Cadair Bronwen. I've been coming here for years and have never seen anybody on the summit. Today: seven people in two different groups! So I pelted across to the main ridge, and up Cadair Berwyn in 5.30 from bwlch above Ffordd Saeson. People were on this summit too, and the next one (which I call Craig Berwyn but is sometimes unacceptably called 'New Top'). The usual boggy trudge to Moel Sych which (finally) I had to myself. Good thing too, for the clarity of light was very unusual: I could clearly see the Brecon Beacons and even distinguish the three peaks of Pen y Fan, Corn Du and Cribyn with the naked eye. Wrekin, Aran, Breidden Hills, Long Mynd, Cader and central Eryri all unusually clear. I contoured round to pick up the boggy path which leads down to lonely Cwm Dywyll, and back down to Llandrillo: 1.58 for the round.

Glas Tulaichean

Peaks: Glas Tulaichean (1051m), Creag Bhreac
Area: Glenshee
I've never been interested in bagging all the Munros, although I've done around 100. The main reason for this is that I've always considered myself a cherry picker, keen to avoid the duller mounds. The reality, however, is that I enjoy almost anything, and always find something to value. This was a good example: a mountain with a dull reputation, with some justification higher up, but by creating a loop I was able to do it justice and the valleys were a delight. I parked by the bridge in Spittal of Glenshee and ran along the tarmac road to the hotel at Dalmunzie, still closed. From here, I took the side valley of Glen Lochsie, which was very pleasant with an ancient Victorian railway (now barely visible) which led up to an abandoned lodge. From here, the real climbing starts, up the featureless Breac Reidh ridge via a jeep track. This curved left with great views over Beinn a'Ghlo, before curving back right to a final pull to the summit. Lovely views over remote peaks like Carn an Righ and up to the Cairngorms with shower clouds over the Lairig Ghru. I was delighted to find that the south-east ridge was gloriously runnable over moss, and passed a golden plover in full breeding plumage. I took in the minor summit of Creag Bhreac before dropping steeply through the crags of Creag Dhearg to rest and drink by a remote little stream tumbling down from the upper slopes. Great views up Gleann Taitneach to some nice looking unheralded peaks like Carn Binnean - and then down into the main glen, crossing the river to a track which gave a long but comfortable descent to Spittal past dozens of bubbling curlew, perhaps the best sound of all. I considered taking in Ben Gulabin but it is very steep from this angle and would have finished me off before the drive home. I had a full (bracing) river bath near the bridge, then drove home.

Glas Maol-Creag Leacach

Peaks: Glas Maol (1068m), Creag Leacach (987m)
Area: Glenshee
After lunch above Pitlochry in warm sunshine, I had a decision to make. I was a little tired after the two previous outings, but with very little open it wasn't as if I could sit in a pub all afternoon. So there was only one real option (apart from spending the day sitting in the car) - more mountains! As a concession to tiredness, and the prevailing weather, I headed up towards Glenshee via the road from Pitlochry. I have been along this once before, with the family the day after breaking 3 hours for the first time at the Edinburgh marathon in 2008. That day I did the three accessible munros above the Cairnwell, the easiest and worst in Scotland: I remember being very tired! This was similar circumstances, albeit not quite as extreme - so I drove right up to the top of the Cairnwell Pass and headed up Meall Odhar. This has ski paraphenalia low down but this is fairly easy to avoid and the springy turf gave a comfortable ascent all the way up Glas Maol. I was tired but still made the summit in 40 minutes or so. Views over Glen Brighty to the east, and excellent views up to the main Cairngorms as well as Lochnagar (which remains a gap for me). The weather had cleared beautifully and the rest of the day was wonderful. Glas Maol is a huge plateau without too many redeeming features, but the next hill - Creag Leacach - is more shapely and a rocky ridge connects the two. Superb fast running led down to this, and I really enjoyed the route up Creag Leacach, which I had to myself in the sunshine. Big skies and big views. I then contoured round to the Meall Gorm spur which led to a shallow col where I had a rest and a drink from the stream. Then it was steeply down to the valley and tiringly back up to the top of the Cairnwell via the Devils's Elbow. I then drove a short way down from the Cairnwell Pass to a superb bivvy site looking down Glen Shee and up to Creag Leacach. It was wonderful - and I dined on mackerel and quinoa before turning in for 9.5 hours restorative sleep.

Beinn a'Ghlo traverse

Peaks: Carn Liath (976m), Braigh Coire Chruinn-Bhalgain (1070m), Carn nan Gabhar (1121m)
Area: Beinn a'Ghlo, Atholl
Easily the most interesting outing in this part of Scotland, Beinn a'Ghlo was the focal point of this microtrip - a range of hills rather than a single mountain, with lots of hidden cwms and landscape features. After my short run from Drumochter, the weather stayed changeable and after fish and chips in Blair Atholl I headed up the minor road to Loch Moraig and Monzie, where it becomes a track. A more perfect car bivouac could not be imagined: looking straight out at Carn Liath, the first peak of the traverse, then big views over the isolated farm at Monzie to the peaks above Glen Tilt further north and east. The light and weather changed continually, with showers drifting in, periods of evening sunshine and rainbows. It was beautifully peaceful, with a drumming snipe in the early hours. Next morning, I had coffee and breakfast then set out in less than ideal conditions. It might have been better to wait, but there wasn't much else to do, so I set off and sheltered behind the locked hut at the end of the track as a squally shower blew in. It was pretty grim for the steep haul up Carn Liath, even worse than yesterday at times, with heavy rain and windchill. At the summit of Carn Liath, I took a bearing in thick mist, thinking it would be a day of tricky nav. But the moment I got up to continue down the ridge, the mist tore away revealing Glen Tilt below and the next two peaks ahead. A superb section along the twisting ridge of Beinn Mhaol followed. Beinn a'Ghlo is famous for its numerous distinctive corries, which grace the long ridge and all have different characteristics. The next climb up Braigh Coire Chruinn-Bhalgain started steep but was surprisingly comfortable and even fairly runnable in places. The top was hostile and misty, and the next section tricky and very cold. In fact, I considered descending down to get out of the wind at one point. In the end, I did this to get out of the wind, put on all my spare clothes and felt much more comfortable. So a little variant as I contoured round to gain the key col that marks the descent to Coire Lagain. At this point, the cloud lifted again for views to the much wilder terrain over Glas Leathad north-east. I ploughed up in strong winds to the top of Carn nan Gabhar, the crowning peak which has a long plateau-like summit. Good running back down as the weather finally cleared. This was a tad unlucky, as all three summits had been misty, but it made the descent far more enjoyable. I drank from a stream then pelted
down Allt Bealach an Fhiodha past Beinn Bheag above Coire Lagain. Great views of interlocking spurs. Saw only one person - so it was a surprise at the end of this very long descent to see 40 cars at my isolated bivvy site. The easing of restrictions was the obvious explanation, as well as the accessibility of this fine range. A really enjoyable morning - quite physically demanding, a time of 3.35 for the 23k and 1450m of climbing. I retreated down to Pitlochry for lunch in warm sunshine.

Sgairneach Mhor

Peaks: Sgairneach Mhor (991m)
Area: Badenoch, Scotland
Restrictions eased just in time to allow me to salvage something from my remaining leave. We should have been in Sicily, but Covid put paid to that. Instead, the weather in the Highlands looked half decent, even though this is several weeks later than my annual trips have tended to be over the past decade. Also, there was no point heading further north-west, as time was limited and the weather looked grim. All some explanation for the fact that this leg stretcher took me back to some of Scotland's dullest hills, those surrounding the Pass of Drumochter. They have the virtue of accessibility, however, and are an ideal way to stretch the legs after the drive up. I did the two Munros of Geal Charn and A'Mharconaich a few years ago in just over an hour while Kate and kids had a coffee in Dalwhinnie. This time, I ran up Coire Dhomhain at 6pm and headed south up the boggy hillside west of the Sow of Atholl. It started to rain as I crossed the Allt Coire Dhomhain via the lower bridge, and I got a real battering for the climb, which eases as it reaches the pleasant whaleback NE ridge. It was cold, wet and windy - fairly bitter as I reached the rounded summit of Sgairneach Mhor in around 47 minutes. The shower briefly passed through, revealing a superb rainbow over Drumochter below. I considered continuing to Beinn Udlamain, but decided to save my legs, heading instead to the upper reaches of Coire Dhomhain which had a nice Highland feel, albeit slightly misleading. The awkward rocky slopes of Sgairneach flushed a family of ptarmigan, but eased at the bottom. I forded the stream and then enjoyed the perfectly runnable return down the bottom of the Coire Dhomhain to complete a nice loop in 90 minutes. It rained heavily again, but it didn't matter, and I dried out on the drive to Blair Atholl for fish and chips.

Crafnant Horseshoe

Peaks: Crimpiau, Craig Wen, Creigiau Gleision
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A slight variant on the usual circuit, in that I started in Trefriw and ran up to the lake by way of an aperitif and leg-stretcher. It worked quite well, and I reached Llyn Crafnant in less than 19 minutes. After jogging along the lakeside tarmac, it is always a relief to reach the open hill, and I always enjoy the short but steep climb up Crimpiau, as it twists and turns through delightful scenery with views eventually opening out to the south, Siabod and Ogwen. It was cloudy but warm on top of Crimpiau (47m from Trefriw), and all very enjoyable. The route over Craig Wen went well, searching out some scrambly sections, then the boggy section before the climb up the three peaks of Creigiau Gleision. A little sunshine started to peek through whilst I rested at the summit: the views over Cowlyd, Pen Llithrig and Tryfan are some of the best in Eryri. The return leg was a little more tiring, through the forest to the lakeside path, then back down the tarmac to Trefriw. Just over two hours.