Beinn a'Ghlo traverse

Peaks: Carn Liath (976m), Braigh Coire Chruinn-Bhalgain (1070m), Carn nan Gabhar (1121m)
Area: Beinn a'Ghlo, Atholl
Easily the most interesting outing in this part of Scotland, Beinn a'Ghlo was the focal point of this microtrip - a range of hills rather than a single mountain, with lots of hidden cwms and landscape features. After my short run from Drumochter, the weather stayed changeable and after fish and chips in Blair Atholl I headed up the minor road to Loch Moraig and Monzie, where it becomes a track. A more perfect car bivouac could not be imagined: looking straight out at Carn Liath, the first peak of the traverse, then big views over the isolated farm at Monzie to the peaks above Glen Tilt further north and east. The light and weather changed continually, with showers drifting in, periods of evening sunshine and rainbows. It was beautifully peaceful, with a drumming snipe in the early hours. Next morning, I had coffee and breakfast then set out in less than ideal conditions. It might have been better to wait, but there wasn't much else to do, so I set off and sheltered behind the locked hut at the end of the track as a squally shower blew in. It was pretty grim for the steep haul up Carn Liath, even worse than yesterday at times, with heavy rain and windchill. At the summit of Carn Liath, I took a bearing in thick mist, thinking it would be a day of tricky nav. But the moment I got up to continue down the ridge, the mist tore away revealing Glen Tilt below and the next two peaks ahead. A superb section along the twisting ridge of Beinn Mhaol followed. Beinn a'Ghlo is famous for its numerous distinctive corries, which grace the long ridge and all have different characteristics. The next climb up Braigh Coire Chruinn-Bhalgain started steep but was surprisingly comfortable and even fairly runnable in places. The top was hostile and misty, and the next section tricky and very cold. In fact, I considered descending down to get out of the wind at one point. In the end, I did this to get out of the wind, put on all my spare clothes and felt much more comfortable. So a little variant as I contoured round to gain the key col that marks the descent to Coire Lagain. At this point, the cloud lifted again for views to the much wilder terrain over Glas Leathad north-east. I ploughed up in strong winds to the top of Carn nan Gabhar, the crowning peak which has a long plateau-like summit. Good running back down as the weather finally cleared. This was a tad unlucky, as all three summits had been misty, but it made the descent far more enjoyable. I drank from a stream then pelted
down Allt Bealach an Fhiodha past Beinn Bheag above Coire Lagain. Great views of interlocking spurs. Saw only one person - so it was a surprise at the end of this very long descent to see 40 cars at my isolated bivvy site. The easing of restrictions was the obvious explanation, as well as the accessibility of this fine range. A really enjoyable morning - quite physically demanding, a time of 3.35 for the 23k and 1450m of climbing. I retreated down to Pitlochry for lunch in warm sunshine.