Area: Picos de Europa, Asturias/Cantabria
If yesterday was something of a standard trade route, traversing the Picos from south to north, we selected a more ambitious return south, through less travelled and wonderfully wild terrain. Both days were a perfect illustration of the central reality of the Picos: it is so compact that one day is easily adequate to get from one side to the other. The initial key to the day was the Canal de la Celada: a deep and hidden valley obscured by the stunning Naranjo. After porridge and a leisurely start, we packed the tents and enjoyed the wonderful play of light as mist rolled up from the valleys then dispersed. We found the small path leading from the hut to the dramatic entrance to the Celada. This then gave a superb onward route, in the shadow between gigantic limestone walls. Some scrambling led steeply up to rocky shelves and finally a broad col below the easier side of the Naranjo de Bulnes. The onward view was superb, remote-feeling and very dramatic. The deep Jou tras el Pico was below and right, with the Naranjo immediately behind us. Ahead, a bowl of rock with steep walls on all sides. We knew there was only one way through, and eventually spied traces of a path up the scree to the tiny, hidden Collado Bonita below several pinnacles and peaks, including La Morra. A level path leads to an awkward section of smooth slabs, steep in places, which eventually gained the shifting scree higher up. This gave a very arduous ascent, luckily still in shade, reminiscent of the Maritime Alps. Finally, we emerged blinking into the sunshine at the tiny narrow col. Another party was already there, and more people were behind - but from here, we saw nobody at all in one of the remoter and least trodden corners of the Picos. The view from the collado (a classic Alpine breche, very narrow and the only feasible route through) was stunning and is considered one of the classic viewpoints of the Picos. The Naranjo towered behind with a cloud inversion still visible to the north. Ahead, new terrain over to the Eastern Massif and ahead towards the south. The descent was very steep initially, then curved round to the Hoyacon de Villasobrada - where the path became tenuous and the landscape even more special. A herd of rebeccos (chamois) broke cover and we weaved through very complex terrain of sinkholes, runnels and very rough limestone ridges. This gave very challenging route-finding throughout and would have been impossible in mist. We traversed the Torre de Santiago then negotiated the terrain below Torre Navarro. We lost the path once, then dropped much lower to pick up a clearer path, with some relief, that I felt must lead to our target of the Coteras Rojos. It did indeed, and the rocks got redder as it climbed. Gradually, Pena Vieja - yesterday's peak - came into view albeit from a different angle. A bit more climbing, and the views opened out - all navigational mysteries solved. Above, Vieja and the Canalona col. Ahead, a steep descent to the green meadows around Refugio Aliva and the prospect of water. First, though, we took in the nearby peak of La Garmona, an obvious viewpoint. This gave a little scramble to a small summit which forms one end of a mini range of peaks, which look stunning from the Aliva side. Even La Garmona looks deceptively hard and sheer. After a bite, we continued downwards. This was steep and hard at first, but just as we were beginning to anticipate the luxury of level ground and green meadows, the ground drops away and the route enters the Canal del Vidrio. Vidrio translates as 'glass', a clue to its character. An exposed traverse led to a series of scrambly shelves and then steep scree, taking an intricate and arduous route downwards - a classic sting in the tail. I suspect the Canal del Vidrio has some local notoriety. Finally, level bouldery terrain and then the joy of a track to the Aliva refuge. This was rather too high end for us, so after a drink we jogged across beautiful green meadows to the Portillas del Boqueron. Just below this, we came back in signal and received the unwelcome news that we would be quarantined on our return to the UK meaning that I would have to cancel the Ireland trip. This left a sour taste after a wonderful two day traverse and rather spoiled the ending - a long series of tracks. As these entered the pastoral meadows and woods above Espinama, I began to recognise them from 20 years ago. K and I spent two nights in Espinama. This time, we headed straight back to the car, and after a drink headed to Potes.
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