Area: Picos de Europa
A few months ago, it seemed very unlikely that there would be any kind of overseas travel this year. By my reckoning, I have had an overseas mountain trip every year since 1989 (when I went to Arctic Norway after my first year of university), so it was nice to continue that streak in such a disastrous era. We had originally planned to go to Corsica, but that (along with Madeira and Sicily) had been cancelled. So another roll of the dice saw us setting off for Bilbao, intent on returning to the Picos for the first time since Kate and I visited just over 20 years ago in early summer 2000. We stayed outside Potes after a long and busy drive full of Spanish/Basque weekenders, then up to Fuente De, which I remembered clearly. It was a perfect Saturday morning, and absolutely packed to the point that I had to drop Peter off, then drive down to Espinama (where K and I stayed 20 years ago), then run back. A long queue for the cable ensued but I had reserved, and eventually we were away and up to El Cable at the edge of the Hoyos de Lloroza and the high peaks of the Picos. It wasn't far off midday, yet the clarity of light was stunning. Pena Remona draws the eye initially, as does Pico de Padierna, which I did on my last visit. We had two days worth of food and kit, however, and were intent on a high traverse to Refugio Ubeda via a peak or two. Initially, this path is very busy (as it was in 2000) as it is so accessible, but it thins out after the crag of La Vueltona. Peter missed the turn for Pena Vieja but I called him back, we hid most of the gear, and ploughed upwards for the Collado de la Canalona, a small col and the key to the ascent of Pena Vieja. I had tried to get Kate up this in 2000, but we retreated from the convex and snow-plastered slopes (early season). Today, no problem at all - this is a simple ascent but very rewarding. From the little col, a contouring path leads to the final climb up Pena Vieja, which steepens to slabby shelves below the summit, which is a fairly narrow ridge with superb views across the range. It's one of the highest peaks of the Picos, and a great start to the trip. We scampered back to the col and down to lunch at our hidden sacs before rejoining the main path, and the hordes for the route beyond Cabana Veronica to the major pass of Horcados Rojos in the heart of the range. From here, we too the opportunity to bag Torre de los Horcados Rojos at 2506m. This has an even better view than Vieja, as it is 100m lower and in the middle of the range. Superb clarity over Tesorero, the Naranjo de Bulnes (for the first time) and Torre Cerrado further west. The peak had a little double summit with narrow connecting ridge and griffon vultures flew beneath us, no more than 100 metres away. Back down the col, from where the onward route south is not obvious at all initially. The route down to the Jour de los Boches (the Picos is characterised by barren 'hollows' of this kind) is very steep, a headwall of rock, and the only feasible route curves rightwards before taking a series of cables and good scrambling sections slanting downwards. This was all fairly absorbing and very enjoyable. At the base of the cwm, I rested on a low rock and drank the rest of my water (I'd carried almost two litres), gambling on the Ubeda refuge being fairly close. Water is a big issue, of course. The rest of the route was wonderful, with the towering walls of the Neveron and Pardida left and the Naranjo coming into view ahead. An even more hostile hollow is traversed, the Jou Sin Tierre, and then a rolling base of mist began to form ahead as we crested a short rise to the green meadow of the Vega de Urriellu and the hut, all made possible by a spring. To the right, the genuinely stupendous sight of the West Face of the Naranjo de Bulnes, undoubtedly one of the most spectacular pieces of rock in Europe and one of the continent's finest sights. We pitched the tents in a beautiful limestone hollow and enjoyed a wonderful evening of shifting mists, cloud inversions in the northern valleys, and beer and crisps from the refuge (it was easy to forget about Covid in the mountains, but you remember as soon as you reach the hut, with masks, no dining, and no free movement).
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