Monday, July 04, 2022

Baula

Peaks: Baula (934m)
Area: Borgarfjordur, Iceland
An iconic feature of the west Iceland landscape, Baula is almost the perfect pyramidal peak. It dominates its surroundings and is a compelling objective, often considered the most beautiful mountain in Iceland. Sadly, on closer inspection it proves to be a pile of unstable poised blocks and scree, but I didn't know that as I headed towards it in ever-improving weather. It had been cloudy but dry in Oxnaladur this morning, but the cloud broke as I headed south-west, to the point that by Hvammstangi (where I took a short deliberate detour), the sky was a brilliant blue. I left the ring-road for Baula, but it took some time to work out a likely starting point for the mountain (I had very little information). The broad west 'ridge' looked the most likely route of ascent and I located a track which led to its base. This worked to an extent, but it was arduous and pathless higher up, and I took a little gorge to ease progress. This felt more like Provence for a while - white rock, warm temperatures, dazzling sunshine, azure sky! It was by far the best weather of the trip. Eventually I gained the base of the 'cone' and started upwards, finding the terrain very demanding by any standards. Never remotely exposed, just arduous and tedious as I fought my way upwards through giant boulder fields - again, reminiscent of the 'clapier' fields of the Maritime Alps. Half way up, I found a very vague path which eased progress just a tad, and the angle did ease towards the summit - after which there is a short, but superb, ridge that curves around the very steep northern/eastern side of the mountain to gain the summit. Immense views in all directions, a reflection of its isolaion, and perfect clarity of light. As is often the case on these sorts of mountains, it is easier to spot better lines in descent, and Baula was no exception. I took a more southerly line, evidence of previous traffic, and - although still arduous and loose - it was easier and I gained the base of the cone fairly quickly. The grass lower down was a relief, and it was still sunny as I got back to the car on the Vestfjardavegur.

No comments: