Hraunvatn/Stapar

Sunday was a washout. It really was a good job I had checked the forecast as upwards movement was practically impossible. I took in the crater of Hverfjall in full wet weather gear (howling gale, horizontal rain) before retreating to the volcanic pillars of Dimmoburgir, a sensible sheltered choice which gave some relief with a 4k walking loop through the formations (and it had a warm cafe above the car park). I managed to locate the Myvatn speciality of Barrow's goldeneye at the nearby Hofoi (where volcanic pillars stand in the water of the lake) but failed to find the other speciality, harlequin duck, coming close to 'birding hypothermia' as I doggedly scanned the Laxa river outflow in truly abysmal conditions. The weather was so bad in Akureyri that I barely left the van, and woke this morning to snow plastering all the peaks above the town that I had intended to ascend this morning. With trail running shoes, this seemed unwise so I reluctantly abandoned my plans and continued along the ring road, hoping for an opportunity to get amongst the scenery and pinpointing Oxnadalur as a likely option. I quickly reached it and it exceeded my expectations, a wonderful valley and the epitome of wild northern Icelandic scenery. I stopped for breakfast below the farms that provide scale for the incredible pinnacle of Hraundrangi which rises above. Higher up, I parked, and took the track to the old farm of Hraun (lots of literary links with the valley, which is widely celebrated). A small path led upwards, so I followed it, wondering if I might make a speculative attempt on the beautiful mountain rising from an obvious long ridge, which turned out to be Heidarfjall. The path led upwards to an awkward rocky section and shallow gorge, above which was a small lake with a great northern diver in full breeding plumage. Above this, and the hypnotically beautiful upper valley is breached, an utterly magical secluded location with an indescribable ambience, completely hidden from below. The stunning lake of Hraunvatn dominates the valley floor with steep mountain sides all around. A tiny path led onwards towards the long ridge up the dominant peak, so I followed it. Grassy at first, it soon led to a rockier section, narrow but not very exposed. This was wonderful, stunning views down to the lake and across to Fagranesfjell and other peaks to the east. Above the ridge steepened to what would be called a gendarme if it was in the Alps. Here, mountain judgment kicked in and I retreated. I made a few abortive attempts to circumvent it, getting higher up the valley, before retreating - not sad at all, just glad to be up here and exercising a bit of experience! I descended down to the viewpoint of Stapar, a little hill with a cairn and just sat enjoying this magical place, perhaps the most memorable of all the locations I visited in Iceland (and that is up against very, very stiff competition). The opposing ridge to the pinnacle of Hraundrangi dominated, but it was the general atmosphere that was genuinely hard to leave. I did, eventually, disturbing an angry ptarmigan en route.