Area: Isle of Arran, Scotland
Well over 30 years since I was last on Arran, a ridiculous gap for such an accessible and wonderful island. Then, I remember drying out for hours in the public toilets, crossing A'Chir in terrible weather and climbing several damp routes on Cir Mhor: we also did most of the main summits in a three day trip. The exceptions all lie around Glen Sannox so that's where I headed after arriving on the 7am ferry from Ardrossan, creaking after a stupendous full Scottish breakfast on board. The bus dropped me off near the seashore and I headed straight up Glen Sannox into a beautiful sunlit morning, not a cloud in the sky and all the peaks arranged from left to right. Starting up North Glen Sannox would have been much better as I quickly realised I would have to traverse horrible pathless ground to the north if I was to gain the start of the Suidhe Fhearghas ridge and do it in its entirety. This was predictably tussocky, boggy and horrible - but enlivened by a superb female hen harrier, which was some compensation. And at the col, near a defunct baryte mine, I picked up a path which quickly became very steep but also well-defined and clear. It did indeed lead to the top of Fhearghas, a fantastic viewpoint over the Firth of Clyde back to the mainland. Ahead, the ridge was wonderful, quite narrow in places, well-defined throughout and hugely enjoyable. Across Glen Sannox, the ridge of Cioch na h'Oige and Goat Fell. Ahead, the main business of the day with the looming pinnacle of Ceum na Caillich, otherwise known as the Witch's Step. A forepeak led to the start of the ridge up to the obvious pinnacle, definitely one of the more dramatic spots in the British mountains. Some easy scrambling led to the top, and then I tried to find a way down. It was fairly obvious that this was climbing terrain and, with no partner and no rope, there was no question of feeling my way down even if it was technically easy (particularly in descent). So I looked for the traverse path and took this, only a little detour with an awkward little wall in descent leading to the gully that regains the main ridge line. More steep scrambling, excellent in places, leads to a more level section of ridge and then the final climb to the three granite tors that represent the summit of Caisteal Abhail. I scrambled up to the obvious highpoint and enjoyed the fantastic views. Some high cloud, but the sun was poking through from time to time. Across the top of Glen Sannox looms Cir Mhor, one of Scotland's finest peaks. I did it twice on our last visit but I'd never been up Caisteal Abhail before. Below, the long and shallow Glen Iorsa and then the west shore of Arran and Kintyre beyond. From the adjoining 'Hunter's' ridge, Cir Mhor is at its best, and a steep climb leads up to the small summit via some rock walls. I remembered it clearly from all those years ago - it is a superb place and, as with everything else, I had it to myself. Superb views over all the peaks, as it lies in a central position. A raven dropped in to see me, sitting a metre of two away. I trotted down to the top of Fionn Coire and then, mindful of energy levels, descended down to Glen Rosa, avoiding A'Chir and Tarsuinn (which I had at least done before). I was conscious of the last few days, and knew it would be a long haul back to Brodick (and I had already done 1350m of elevation). As a result, the descent down the whole of Glen Rosa was a delight, and a contrast to 30+ years ago, when I remember trotting down here in biblical rain and howling gales. At the bottom, birch woods and little waterfalls, and then a long trudge down minor roads to Brodick. I saw a ferry in port at the far end of Brodick, realised I just had time to catch it, so broke into a run for the last mile or two, hopping on dripping with sweat a little over 4 hours (21k/1360m) after starting from Sannox. Beef chilli was a nice way to replenish energy levels on the way back to the mainland.
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