Llwybr Llechi/Slate Trail

The plan was a good one - a two-day attempt on the slate trail, starting and finishing in Bethesda with an overnight stay in Blaenau half way. It worked a treat until the weather came in on Monday morning, torrential rain in stereotypical Blaenau fashion. I could have got back to the car, but I would undoubtedly have cut corners and the whole point is to do this route in its entiriety, so I will have to return. Anyway, day one went superbly, leaving Bethesda in perfect spring weather, climbing through the slate up towards Lon Las Ogwen and Zipworld. Then, with Carnedd Dafydd above it was into the familiar route up the old Nant Francon road, last travelled in the December snow. At Ogwen cottage, which I reached in an hour, I had a short break, before the next section along the A5 and then the old road to Capel Curig. So far, so familiar, as was the next section up the side of Crimpiau. From here, though, a lovely path weaves through the moor and woodland north of the A5, with interesting views back over the Carneddau and over to Siabod. Very light drizzle at times, before the descent down to Ty Hyll and then the riverside path to Betws. I remember doing Traditional Route from this path above Swallow Falls years ago - I suspect we were the last people to climb it! Down to Betws and a much needed refuel, still before midday. From Betws, nice paths lead along the Conwy to Fairy Glen and then woods to Conwy Falls. Then it is up the Machno valley and the section with most personal resonance, and also the quietest and best section of the route. A track on the west of the valley eventually climbs above Penmachno itself (small route finding error due to a fallen sign) and then another big climb above Carrog and Cwm. The sun was out now, and this section was superb - including the steep climb through Rhiw Bach quarry above Cwm, where taid worked and a place visited with dad. Cwm is a very special place - I was reminded of it when I visited Ushguli, one of the most extraordinary places I have ever been, tucked away at the end of a remote valley in Svaneti, Georgia. Admittedly, the drama there is accentuated by Ushba, the giant peak that blocks the end of the valley - but the comparison is a valid one, an isolated community of dark stone cut off from the rest of the world. At the top of the climb, the pass is breached and a level section through woods leads to the new Cwt y Bugail/Graig Ddu quarry via a very steep incline, and then the very long descent down Cwm Teigl to Llan Ffestiniog, round the side of Manod Mawr. More sunshine and easy jogging down the tarmac, cutting the corner slightly to head direct to Llan. I was tiring now, so the next section took a while. It was new terrain for me, through the glades and dells of Cwm Teigl and the characteristic oak woodland of the Vale of Ffestiniog - at the very best time of year in the best weather. It was all a bit twisting and involved though, tiring at the end of a long day, and I was glad to reach Blaenau after eight hours, 56k and 1650m of effort.