Area: Rhinogydd, Eryri
A glorious spell of settled weather, perfect conditions for a high camp. The Rhinogydd are the perfect location for this, as they always have a sense of occasion. My visits have been sporadic over the years, but it is always memorable - we traversed the entire range from Barmouth to Traws a decade or so ago. This was far less ambitious, Huw and I walked in from the Bronaber side late afternoon as high cloud gathered. We walked in to Bwlch drws Ardudwy, the ancient pass over the otherwise impenetrable range. After scouting around various sites, lack of water being a big issue, we finally settled on a flat spot below Rhinog Fawr with a little trickle of water nearby. I am fairly certain I've camped here before: maybe 1989 or 1990 in a different technological context! After this, we set off with lighter sacs for the direct approach to Rhinog Fach: this is very steep for a mile but gets high very quickly. Views were superb, with the sun dropping over Llyn and Bardsey. Ahead, every detail of the Cyfrwy crags on Cader Idris was illuminated by the slowly settling sun. Below, Llyn Hywel, one of Wales's finest mountain lakes. We trotted through the rocky outcrops then began the steep haul up Y Llethr, the range's highpoint, which levels out to a grassy trot at the top. We headed back to the col between the two peaks, then down a side path to the shores of Llyn Hywel, where others were camping. This was disappointing but inevitable these days with social media giving people 'ideas', and a couple more tents were scattered around the valley containing Llyn Cwmhosan. We had Bwlch drws Ardudwy to ourselves though. By the time we got back to the tent, the sun had dropped, and the midges were out in force - leading to an uncomfortable and very quick evening meal of couscous and tuna before escaping to our respective tents.
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