Morrone

Peaks: Morrone (859)

Area: Cairngorms, Scotland

Braemar's home mountain, quite unusual for Scotland in that it is an obvious ascent from the centre of a village. I was in two minds this morning: tired after two big days, and the weather was on the change, but I wondered whether I should max out the trip with a longer outing up Beinn Iutharn Mor and its neighbours. Some light drizzle and lowering cloud as I had my morning coffee made the decision for me: I reverted to 'plan b', which was a proper mountain run up Morrone. I could see the mast on the top from behind my camping place, so went from the van rather than the village - up through steep woods to a pond and then a superb contouring path through Morrone Birkwood, a very special habitat apparently, of 'downy' birch and juniper woodland. On emerging, the main hill gate and path up Morrone begins - clearly very popular (I think there is a race up it attached to the Highland Games). I was a bit tired, and it was a bit of a slog, but I made the summit in 27 minutes from the base of the path. At times, the sun peeked through and it then got pretty hot. On the whole though, I felt my decision was the right one, with mist down over the Cairngorms and only Lochnagar clear. I had a rest on the top, then took the obvious track to the north which then descends towards the Glenshee road after a mile or so. This descent was quite lengthy with lots of switchbacks, but led to a quiet tarmac road back to Braemar via the golf course. Unwisely, I then cut inland following my nose through a series of complex paths which never quite went where I expected them to! I ended up covering 17k with 2000ft of climbing, taking two hours, so a longer and more tiring outing than I had intended. 

Cairngorms east

Peaks: Ben Avon (1171), Beinn a'Bhuird (1196)

Area: Cairngorms, Scotland

Both these mountains are more like miniature ranges than individual peaks. I hadn't originally planned to do them, instead the intention was to head to Lochnagar. But I was enjoying this side of the Cairngorms so much that I didn't want to leave. Also, the clear weather meant this was a sensible choice as both are a very long way from the nearest road. Again, a bike shaves some of the distance and time off, so I set off on mine from the car park at Invercauld north-east of Braemar. This was very easy initially, tarmac then gravel past a sort of stately home to another estate at Altnourie. The track then becomes rough, mountain-bike territory really, but I persisted until I had done at least 5k of the route before abandoning the bike and setting out up Glen an-t'Slugain on foot. This narrows to a gorge at the top, where I crossed a stream to an old ruin which looks almost Greek in style. Above, the Slugain gives way to the much bigger valley of the Quoich, which runs all the way up to the Sneck between the two peaks (and all the way down to the Linn of Quoich which was directly opposite my campsite). Then came a real surprise, the path up the glen was remarkably good, presumably a stalker's path, gently rising, dry and comfortable underfoot. It enabled these big distances to be covered easily, and I swallowed up the ground, finding the whole ascent of Ben Avon far easier than I had anticipated. The valley tightens higher up, with Beinn a'Bhuird's magnificent cwms to the left. A steep section leads the boulder landmark of the Cleirich to a lovely green stream valley higher up, reminding me of Iceland (as did much of the scenery today). At the top, the first granite tors mark the 'Sneck', a pronounced col between Avon and Bhuird, with the wild valley of Slochd Mor stretching out below to the north. Beyond this, the ground descends to the flatlands of Aberdeenshire and Banffshire, the only part of mainland Britain that I have never visited. A series of zigzags leads up scree on the right to gain the vast Ben Avon plateau. With blue skies above, this recalls desert scenery and put me in mind of Utah or Jordan. The plateau is scattered with granite tors, like Dartmoor, and I headed across to the highest one, still surprised at how easy it all was despite the distances. I was on the summit in two hours from the bike highpoint, although it is at least 20km away (from the van anyway). I began to hatch the idea of taking in Beinn a'Bhuird too, as its highest summit - the North Top - didn't seem far from the Sneck. So I trotted down to that col, examining the Garbh Choire with its remote rock-climbing, somewhere I have wanted to visit for decades. I had very good legs, so ploughed straight up the other side of the Sneck to the granite forepeak of Cnap a'Chleirich. From here, an arctic plateau leads across to the featureless true summit of Beinn a'Bhuird. Great views down to its wild and remote eastern corries. Then, a mistake. I should have done justice to the mountain by descending the broad ridge. Instead, I retraced my steps, stupidly. This was partly over-caution, as it had clouded over and the weather looked threatening (and I was well over 20km from the van!). But it was also a desire to descend the comfortable path and save some energy. Despite that, it still feels like a mistake and almost a cheat's ascent of Beinn a'Bhuird (which I could see from my camp). The descent was even easier than the ascent. and I got back to the bike after 31k/1250m in exactly five hours. The final bike descent was initially rough, then very fast, and I had plenty of time for a toastie in the Bothy cafe before my river bath in the Dee.

Cairn Toul ridge

Peaks: Devil's Point (1004), Cairn Toul (1291), Sgor an Lochain Uaine/Angel's Peak (1258)

Area: Cairngorms, Scotland

My Cairngorms experience is not extensive, and has always been limited to forays from the north and west. I did the Cairngorm 4000s in 2017, but missed Cairn Toul (in other words, I didn't do the 4000s, but it was still a big and memorable day). I had a formative experience on Bynack More in a blizzard in winter 1991, a memory which still causes me to shudder. And more recently I did the peaks above beautiful Glen Feshie. But I had never properly explored the southern and eastern hills and approaches before, so this short trip was aimed at correcting that. I parked the van a couple of miles outside posh Braemar, and drove round to the Linn of Dee early on Sunday. It was busy already, a reflection perhaps of the better weekend weather in the east. After porridge and coffee on the stove, I cycled up the gravel road to Derry Lodge, standard practice which shaves some time and distance off these unavoidably long outings. The scenery here is exquisite, beautiful copses of Caledonian pine and babbling streams. I left the bike and trotted up the key Lairig Ghru path which goes all the way to Aviemore via Scotland's most famous mountain pass, but also gives access to the peaks I wanted to do. It was very pleasant indeed, and I adopted a loping walk/mild jog pace through the robber's copse to Glen Luibeg and its river crossing, which I did barefoot as I was enjoying the novel comfort of dry feet. Delightful native woodland here, with great views up Luibeg towards Ben Macdui, looking like a more interesting route than the one I took up Macdui in 2017 (across the plateau from Cairn Gorm). The path climbs gently and traverses the base of Carn a'Mhaim with teasing views until finally reaching a viewpoint over the grandest part of the range - Devil's Point very notable ahead, with Cairn Toul to its right. The deep Lairig Ghru running all the way up to Braeraich. And ahead, the magnificent Glen Geusachan curving up to the plateau above Glen Feshie. The path then gently descends to the base of the Lairig, crosses the river, and comes to the legendary bothy of Corrour. I found it empty so took a short break inside, very pleasant and atmospheric. When I emerged, the early cloud was clearing to bright blue sunshine. Stunning clarity, and hot as I ploughed up the steep climb into Coire Odhair above the bothy. Plenty of streams to drink from, and I concentrated more than usual on replenishing my fuel, always a good idea in the Cairngorms as you are generally a long way from your car! I took a steep short cut up towards Devil's Point (a famously prudish victorian translation of the Gaelic original) and easy ground led to this. It is a munro, but really just a spur, the end of the Cairn Toul ridge. It gives tremendous views down to the river confluence and Glen Geusachan, as well as the entire Lairig Ghru and surrounding peaks. After a banana, I trotted back to the col, and then up a forepeak to the first proper view of Cairn Toul, by far the shapeliest Cairngorm mountain (and also a pair of snow buntings, presumably breeders). Nice boulder hopping up this, with the weather now absolutely perfect, crystal clarity across the entire range and beyond. This is a major peak, a key 4000er and the fourth highest mountain in Britain, so I stayed for a while on the summit, drinking it in. I then popped across to Sgor an Lochain Uaine (Angel's Peak is a made-up name, Victorian again presumably). It is a fantastic viewpoint, promoted to munro status in the 90s, with mighty Braeraich and its wild, remote corries the most notable feature. I contoured back across Cairn Toul, saving lots of time and energy and trotted back down to Corrour, drinking often from the rushing stream which cascades down these slopes. The return was long but not too tedious, and it had clouded over by the time I reached Derry lodge after 26k/1400m of effort in around five relatively relaxed hours. A delightfully easy gravel ride back to the van for a pint of tea, sitting outside the van in the sunshine. I then took a bath in the infant River Dee before retiring to the same overnight camp with views of Macdui and Beinn a'Bhuird on a superb cloudless evening with virtually no midges.

Glenshee north

Peaks: Carn an Tuirc (1019), Carn of Claise (1063)

Area: Glenshee, Scotland

My Highlands model is now so refined that it follows the same schedule, and as such I am always seeking good options for short post-drive outings. These fitted the bill to perfection, undistinguished hills but ideally suited to a brief leg-stretcher after the drive. I left home at 7am and drove to Glenshee via stops in Lancaster and Stirling. In 2020, I did a painful trot up Glas Maol and its neighbour from Glenshee (having already traversed Beinn a'Ghlo in the morning - a reflection of the joy of being released from Covid confinement combined with the related fact that there was nothing else to do, everything was still closed!). An even more painful memory is connected with the hills on the other side of the pass - Carn Aosda, Geoidh and the Cairnwell - as I did these the day after breaking three hours for the first time at the Edinburgh marathon of 2008. Today's hills are accessed a little further down the road on the Braemar side. Carn an Tuirc is an obvious objective, a scree-covered dome, and pleasant jogging along the river led to a direct path up the front. The highpoint comes soon after, just 44 minutes from the road. Then comes grassy running down to a broad col and then another grassy slog up the very dull hill of Carn of Claise, on which I saw a sandpiper well away from its conventional habitat. Some nice valleys make the views here much more interesting, however: the Caenlochan Glen, for example, is surprisingly deep. I contoured another grassy valley (Allt a Garbh Coire) and then headed along the very old Monega Pass route which takes the wonderful grassy spur down to the pointed top of Sron na Gaoithe. This was superb, and led to a steep drop-off and more good running back to the road. Around 1.45 for the circuit, a quick invigorating bath in the Clunie Water, and then to camp outside Braemar.

HK-Conwy-Llanasa-St Asaph

I had been planning to cycle from Conwy to home for some time, as I have always assumed a westerly would ease progress. However, for complicated reasons the opportunity to go the other way arose and winds were mercifully light! I didn't go direct, as I still want to up the mileage a tad in advance of the French trip, so headed east counter-intuitively initially, turning up to Saltney Ferry for the Dee path to Queensferry. From here, I tried to follow the national cycle route which is just laughable. At times, some sections are worthwhile but most of the time it is a typically British half-hearted approach to cycling provision, ridiculously convoluted and often disgorging into the traffic anyway. So eventually I gave up and some of the sections were predictably unpleasant as I essentially reversed my memorable 'virtual London marathon' of 2020, when I ran home from Gronant. It is all a great shame, as a proper cycle path would make this a very pleasant tour of the Deeside communities, all flat. By Gronant, the traffic eases, and by Prestatyn everything changes as you access the promenade near the Nova centre. It was a glorious day, sun-drenched with classic seaside views, and the riding is good. Still not exactly plain sailing though, with sandy sections and hundreds of very slow moving and often very large human beings. I had a short break in Colwyn Bay, taking a good route to Mochdre and then down Pabo Lane to Junction and Conwy. Around 3.20 for the leisurely 80k ride. Next day, I rode back but took a different route and, with rain threatening, decided to head to St Asaph after doing the horrible climb from Gronant to Llanasa. 

Abergwyngregyn

Race: Abergwyngregyn (7.4k/390m)

Time/Position: 39.40 (27th from 136)

I was always under the impression this race ploughed up the steep tarmac towards Anafon then bashed up some heather before returning the same way. As a result, I had never bothered with it despite its 'home turf' status. There may be two different routes in the Tuesday night series from Aber - whatever the case, this course takes a logical and very enjoyable clockwise loop to the Falls and above, most of which was familiar territory. Indeed, I remembered the start from a British Champs race up Moel Wnion many years ago. It takes a very steep track to eventually join the gate that leads to the familiar circular contouring route to Aber Falls. I climbed slowly but reasonably well by recent weak standards, and then enjoyed the hard racing along the familiar tracks to Rhaedr Bach. Then comes an awkward rocky section to the main Aber Falls, which again I knew well, before the bonus climb, a draining zigzag haul up the screes and through the woodland (now mainly felled) to eventually gain the spur that comes down from Llwytmor. I have no memory of doing this climb before, and struggled on it after the fast start, and my current sluggishness on all steep climbs. From the top, the race becomes a famously fast pelt down, just a flat-out spring for the finish. I recorded 7.5 minutes for the full 2.2km descent, 3.20km pace throughout. I had done the lower section earlier this year, although the finish is actually at the cabin that marks the start of the tourist path to the Falls.

Penmaenbach climbing

Routes: Jefferson Slab (f6a:led), Y Clip Aur (f6a:sec), A55 arete (f5c:led), Agent Orange (f5c:led)

Crag: Penmaenbach, Conwy

All routes I have done numerous times before, but not for a few years, so this was a very pleasant few hours of cragging before the evening race. It was rather cool and breezy as we walked in but a little sunshine peeked through at times and it just about stayed on the right side of 'too cold' throughout. Peter and I both led the tricky Jefferson Slab, and I enjoyed revisiting the arete which is the most satisfying line on the right-hand slab. The slab in particular was harder than I remembered finding it, but all climbing is when you have had such a massive break from it! Vic and Emma climbed alongside on parallel routes. We avoided the chough nesting areas (multiple choughs flying around throughout, presumably meaning they have had breeding success) and moved to another area I have climbed on many times before, where Peter and I both led the steeper but juggy Agent Orange as the sun came out: always an enjoyable climb with sharp little holds easing progress. Then it was back to the car and down to Aber for the race.

Tour de Flint and Denbigh

This was supposed to be one of my intermittent 'cycling years' but it hasn't worked out like that yet, due to a combination of circumstances (not least poor weather). I did manage to up the mileage a little today with my first 100k for some time. This route became another of my 'Tour de [historic] Flintshire' outings, centred around a magnificent lunch in Denbigh (and spending a fair amount of time in Denbighshire!). From home, I climbed up to Buckley, then through Mold and Cadole all the way up to Clwyd Gate in the big ring. I felt reasonably good, and it is a fantastic descent to Llanbedr DC after which I took the delightful quiet lanes through Llandyrnog to Bodfari. After the early threat of rain, it became superbly bright and clear along to St Asaph. Then, after a long family lunch it was back in the saddle for the climb up the old Rhuallt Hill, then a semi-inadvertent extension to Dyserth, down Hiraddug Road where we used to live. And then finally benefiting from a now light westerly for the undulating road through Trelawnyd and Lloc to Holywell. Unusually clear views of the Wirral, Liverpool cathedrals and the Pennines. A horrible climb to Pentre Halkyn and then Rbosesmor, then tiny lanes to Northop, Alltami and back to Buckley before coasting home - 100k, 1380m in a less-than-speedy four hours.

Weets fell race

Race: Weets fell race (8.5k/450m)

Time/Position: 50.11 (21st from 131 [1st V50])

As with the Cressbrook Crawl last month, I am not reading too much into my first V50 placing here. For one thing there were two V55s ahead of me, and there was a fairly small local field competing, comparable to a Clwydian race. It is actually a famous event though, with quite a long and illustrious history (dating all the way back to 1971) and it is in the heart of traditional fell running country on the Lancashire/Yorkshire border. Weets is actually a small summit above the town of Barnoldswick (all of this is traditional Yorkshire, modern Lancashire) and the race used to dash through the streets on a direct route to the top, rather like Rivington Pike or Cilcain. It takes a very different route now, and Morgan and I arrived just a few minutes before the start (all this was only because it was vaguely en route to pick up Eve in York). Now it starts from a minor road just outside the town. Up this to a little path through heather which heads up a grassy hill before a descent down Folly Lane: this slightly arbitrary section is a little unfortunate, as the runners then double back at the bottom, climbing back into the open hill that marks the start of the real climb up Weets. From the summit trig, the route then takes another slightly arbitrary mini-loop to the north through awkward boggy and tussocky terrain before climbing back to the top then reversing the outward leg. Some nice bracing views down to Barnoldswick and over the Pendle hills. Given my continuing 'rest', I had a reasonable if slightly plodding race, but at least held my position from the summit down, only because I upped the pace on the final descent as a big group of chasers caught me up. A pleasant interlude, then it was back to the van to continue the drive to York for a very late lunch.

Cyrn Las horseshoe

Peaks: Garnedd Ugain

Routes: Clogwyn y Person arete (s3)

Area: Yr Wyddfa, Eryri

The true Cwm Glas horseshoe, as I think of it, goes up the north ridge of Crib Goch, takes in Garnedd Ugain, studiously avoids Snowdon, then descends Cyrn Las. As such, it is the connoisseur's choice, and something I have done a few times. This is an even more refined version, kicking off with the steep walk from the Pass beyond Gyrn Las and up into Cwm Glas, one of the finest corners of Wales, drawn to the superb arete line above. Shockingly, I realised I haven't done Clogwyn y Person arete this century! I did it several times in the 80s and 90s as I cut my mountaineering teeth with Tim and Stee. In fact I can remember doing it in big boots on Christmas Eve decades ago, on a freezing day with verglas on the rocks! Nothing as dramatic today, in fact we roped up for most of it. I had suggested it as a suitable mountaineering outing for the hut group after another convivial evening, particularly given the unsettled weather. It was cold and cloudy as we set off - 'we' being Steve, Emma, and special guest Peter's brother Robin from Seattle. The best scrambling follows a line of jugs up the right wall of the gully, atmospheric and superb. Then I led up an exposed section to what I thought was the crux groove. However, my memory was tricking me - in fact the first groove is considerably harder, and I was glad to have the rope for the final lurch over a horizontal spike. Above is the real crux! This is another awkward groove, which I led over the final bulge, and then bought Emma up. The arete is a wonderful line, certainly one of the region's best scrambles, and the easier ridge above leads pleasantly towards Crib y Ddisgyl. The weather had improved, the threatening start giving way to tiny glimmers of brightness and a cloudbase well above the tops - all very enjoyable. We all gathered on the summit of Garnedd Ugain, then scampered down the grass to pick up the narrow path down Cyrn Las ridge. This always takes longer than expected and was hard on the knees today after I bashed them on the slate yesterday. There's a few little rocky steps and a lot of weaving around.

Llanberis slate climbing

Routes: Fresh Air (f6a:led), Hawkeye (f5c:sec), Macsen (f5:led), Learning to Fly (f5a:led), Octogenarian (f5a:sec)

Area: Llanberis slate

An immensely long lay-off from climbing: some young people will have had entire climbing careers since I last tied on in earnest. Covid was to blame, I just never properly re-engaged. But, this March I got a pass for the wall, and used it a lot so do have a tad more strength. It's also true that I have done a little mild mountaineering in the long 'interval' and did visit old favourites like Pot Hole and Castle Inn a couple of times. But the general point stands, so I kicked off with an old favourite today - up the detached slate slab of Fresh Air. It is well bolted, of course, but a little more polished than I remembered. It went fairly well, if a little less smooth and elegant than it always seemed in the past, perhaps unsurprisingly. The weather has been unseasonably cold, but it was at least dry for this afternoon session with Steve. We then picked off the other two routes hereabouts, the 5c being much better than it looks with some interesting moves (done before, as with all today's climbs). Then it was round the corner for the two slabbiest easy routes, albeit both a tad unbalanced, before we got a bit too cold as rain threatened. Back to the hut for a superb Spanish feast, the fourth of our Nant Peris dining society outings.

Up the Beast

Race: Up the Beast

Time/Position: 44.48 (12th from 105)

There was a time when I had never missed a 'Beast' race, having done every one since it was launched. I have missed a few by now (I swapped it for the Llanrug 5k last year for example) but it is still one of the local fell races I have done most often. As such, I suspect this was comfortably my slowest ever time, but I wasn't too surprised by that in the circumstances. I told myself I would just jog round, but it never quite works out like that, and I probably went a little too hard on the first section through the woods meaning that I was blowing on the Beast and the other climbs. It was much cooler than usual, almost cold at times, and I am never entirely convinced the complex final section through the woods is always the same route! A pint afterwards in the refurbished Miners was a pleasant way to wind down.

Rhinog traverse

Peaks: Rhinog Fawr, Rhinog Fach, Y Llethr, Crib y Rhiw, Diffwys, Diffwys West, Llawllech, Mynydd Egryn, Egryn South

Area: Rhinogydd, Eryri

For me the full traverse of the Rhinog range is perhaps the best mountain day in Eryri, just edging the 3000s because it is so much wilder and emptier. There are no easy ways to tackle the northern end, which really slowed Peter and I down when we did the full south to north traverse in 2014. Today's plan was a slightly cheaty, more direct reverse version, which overcame the difficult northern terrain by using a cunning side route to the east, which was still appallingly boggy and awkward, if a little less rocky. I felt the mild cheat was justified, partly because this was a solo crossing, and as such I had to cycle back to the van from Barmouth after finishing. But also because I made up for it by sticking religiously to the southern ridge crest as I approached Barmouth, all the way to the south top of Mynydd Egryn, which makes the climax in this direction much harder. I dropped the bike off first, then the intimidatingly long 20 mile drive north to the start point by Llyn Trawsfynydd. Absolutely perfect conditions: superb clarity, mild but not hot, a gentle northerly tailwind. The initial tracks lead to a boggy wilderness south of Tyndrain and a very hard to follow, tenuous 'path' which is mostly invisible until you get higher up. It coalesces a bit and then hits a firetrack in the forest which leads very easily to the marked path up to Bwlch Tyddiad/Roman Steps. Huw and I descended this last year, so I had recent knowledge which I deployed to good effect, taking the side route, steep and rocky, up to Llyn Du, a great spot hidden in a rocky fold, typical Rhinogydd scenery. From here, I got the most direct ascent bang on: there are lots of paths but the steepest approach gets you to the top very quickly, in fact it arrives suddenly, a mere 90 minutes from the start near Traws. I then took the 'descent of doom', direct through atmospheric rocky runnels and gullies all the way down to Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, a historic Welsh pass, where I have camped twice - once with Huw last year, and once as a teenager in the late 1980s. Then it was up the path to Llyn Cwmhosan and Llyn Hywel, branching off before the latter to curve round on a tiny path to sneak up Rhinog Fach from the west. The weather continued absolutely glorious after a little cloudy interlude. Then comes the scenic highlight, for which again I picked good lines based on last year's trip, Llyn Hywel its usual magnificence, turquoise in this light. The route up Y Llethr is steep and loose, and I was now beginning to tire. Great views over Llyn and Ynys Enlli compensated. Then, the route changes completely - and the ridge takes on a grassy, gentle character. I was feeling good enough to run this, with the views of the sea getting closer with every step. Cader was coming into sharp focus across the Mawddach. Easy ground leads quickly over Crib y Rhiw and Diffwys, all absolutely superb and a wonderful contrast with the northern end. Then came a surprise. From Llawllech you can smell the sea, but then I took the direct line over the remaining summits - suddenly the route becomes much less clear and the ground far more awkward again. I had no memory of this from 2014, which makes me think we took a different line to Diffwys, as I remember it all as very easy running. So I think this was new ground, and considerably more challenging as a final descent, down to Bwlch y Rhiwgyr, a noted crossing point. Then yet more climbing over Mynydd Egryn, with an annoying and tiring route-finding error before I corrected myself and dropped past Barmouth Slabs to Dinas Oleu, emerging onto the main street with its mobility scooters and drunken brummies. The mistakes and semi-inadvertent purity of the descent from Diffwys cost me a lot of time, perhaps an hour or more compared to the direct side tracks. I had been on for a pretty quick traverse but in the end it was just under five hours moving, close to six in all. I took a little time to recuperate in Barmouth: pasty, energy drinks, crisps, although I should perhaps have indulged in a full meal before the challenging second part of the day. I knew the ride back would be tiring, and it was: the gravel bike feels like every gram of its substantial weight when one is tiring! The 10k to Llanelltyd was fine, even pleasant with its constant views of Mawddach and Cader in stunning afternoon light. But the A470 to Traws was not very nice. I had hoped to be able to take the national route via Sarn Helen but this would have been worse, and at least the route north was quiet with all the weekenders heading the opposite direction. Past Ganllwyd and Coed y Brenin via a few nasty draggy climbs before finally getting back to the van (a painfully slow 90 minutes from Barmouth!) where I briefly relaxed on my chair in the sunshine, gazing back to Rhinog Fawr and Fach as the evening light got even clearer.