Friday, June 07, 2024

Cyrn Las horseshoe

Peaks: Garnedd Ugain
Routes: Clogwyn y Person arete (s3)
Area: Yr Wyddfa, Eryri
The true Cwm Glas horseshoe, as I think of it, goes up the north ridge of Crib Goch, takes in Garnedd Ugain, studiously avoids Snowdon, then descends Cyrn Las. As such, it is the connoisseur's choice, and something I have done a few times. This is an even more refined version, kicking off with the steep walk from the Pass beyond Gyrn Las and up into Cwm Glas, one of the finest corners of Wales, drawn to the superb arete line above. Shockingly, I realised I haven't done Clogwyn y Person arete this century! I did it several times in the 80s and 90s as I cut my mountaineering teeth with Tim and Stee. In fact I can remember doing it in big boots on Christmas Eve decades ago, on a freezing day with verglas on the rocks! Nothing as dramatic today, in fact we roped up for most of it. I had suggested it as a suitable mountaineering outing for the hut group after another convivial evening, particularly given the unsettled weather. It was cold and cloudy as we set off - 'we' being Steve, Emma, and special guest Peter's brother Robin from Seattle. The best scrambling follows a line of jugs up the right wall of the gully, atmospheric and superb. Then I led up an exposed section to what I thought was the crux groove. However, my memory was tricking me - in fact the first groove is considerably harder, and I was glad to have the rope for the final lurch over a horizontal spike. Above is the real crux! This is another awkward groove, which I led over the final bulge, and then bought Emma up. The arete is a wonderful line, certainly one of the region's best scrambles, and the easier ridge above leads pleasantly towards Crib y Ddisgyl. The weather had improved, the threatening start giving way to tiny glimmers of brightness and a cloudbase well above the tops - all very enjoyable. We all gathered on the summit of Garnedd Ugain, then scampered down the grass to pick up the narrow path down Cyrn Las ridge. This always takes longer than expected and was hard on the knees today after I bashed them on the slate yesterday. There's a few little rocky steps and a lot of weaving around.

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