Cader Idris race

Race: Ras y Gader (10.5m/2900ft)
Peaks: Cadair Idris (2930ft/893m)
Time/Position: 1:47:15 (29/260+)
Had no plans to do this race, but took the decision to make a family day of it at the last minute. The superb weather was also a factor: very warm sunshine, but also crystal clear, with almost no haze. Further, my two previous runnings of the race had been rather unsatisfactory, and this race has a great atmosphere: starting and finishing in the middle of my favourite Welsh town. I climbed quite well, walking just the zig zags, with a good, sustainable pace elsewhere. Felt pretty comfortable as I approached the rocky summit in 23rd place (64 mins), comfortable enough to relish the exhilerating early descent down the rocky gully to the fast grassy sprint to Rhiw Gwredydd. Superb views of sea and mountain ahead, although the next section - the steep short cut - requires full concentration! I picked up a couple more places before blowing badly as soon as the race flattens out at the Llyn Gwernan bog. This has been my bete noire in previous years and, annoyingly, was again. Lost several minutes and several places as I floundered through and lost all my strength. I roused myself to a limp jog round the lake and a reasonable finish down the road - but lacking any real speed and suffering with a stitch I lost a couple more places. Rather dehydrated, but perked up after water. We then left for the Precipice Walk, which I've never done before. M,D,M,E went to the lake - while Kate and I completed the walk, which is maximum reward for minimal effort. Stunning views of the Mawddach estuary in perfect late afternoon sunshine. Finished with a family picnic in an idyllic spot with views to Wyddfa and Moelwynion.

Gamelin walk

A very pleasant birthday family walk, over Moel y Faen along the ridge to Gamelin and back. A pint in the Sun, and a paddle in the Dee to finish, as the weather starts to warm up.

Clwydian run

Another good longish evening run last night, starting from Llanarmon yn Ial with Neil and heading direct for the top of Moel Gyw, a lung-busting climb. We then followed the circuit I did this time last year, southwards along the ridge but doggedly including all the tops: Moel Llanfair, Moel y Plas, Moel y Waun and Moel yr Accre above Llandegla. Quick running back from this final top to Llyn Gweryd and back down to the village.

Castell Helen, Holyhead Mountain

Crag: Castell Helen, Anglesey
Routes: Lighthouse Arete Direct (VS 4c, 4b: led p.2),
Crag: Holyhead Mountain, Anglesey
Routes: Stairs (S: led), Cursing (VS 4c: sec)
Rather unlucky with the weather today. What might have been a really memorable trip petered out in classic coastal drizzle, wind and clag. That said, at least I was able to sample this excellent venue before the worst of the weather. Dull and dank as we descended to the base of Castell Helen. Conditions far from ideal as I belayed in the very wet (high tide) niche, lashed by occasional big waves and relishing the atmosphere - razorbills flying just a few feet away, seals bobbing around in the rough sea. Wind and some drizzle as I seconded Vic up the good first pitch of the direct, which goes up easy shelves to a steep crack on good holds: all rather greasy in the conditions. I was cold and wet after the stance, which wasn't pleasant. I then led the crux pitch of the normal route - just one move really, over a mini overhang to gain a very nice crack. Good holds and good gear allow you to enjoy the fabulous position. After a ledge, I continued up the easy final pitch of the arete: short walls and easy climbing but stopped a few metres below the top due to rope drag. Started to rain a bit harder as we topped out so we went to the cafe to consider our options. Decided against another Castell Helen route, a real shame, but retreated sensibly to the mountain - a 20 min walk - where I merged both pitches of Stairs (S). This is very simple, so I followed the arete left for more interest (had no guidebook). Pleasant enough. Vic then led the much better Cursing (VS 4c), a very good route with two splendid moves: one up a steep flake to the arete, and then a swing under the top roof to gain the final diagonal crack. Good, varied pitch. Downclimbed the pinnacle and led the Plimsoll scramble to finish as the rain began in earnest and the crag disappeared into the mist.

Berwyn run

Peaks: Mynydd Tarw (2234/681), Foel Wen South (2254/687), Foel Wen (2267/691), Tomle (2434/742), Cadair Bronwen (2575/785), Cadair Berwyn (2713/827), Cadair Berwyn North (2723/830), Moel Sych (2713/827)
Area: Berwyn
A splendid evening after a showery and changeable week: the weather stabilised just in time for this. Left Cwm Maen Gwynedd with Neil at 5.30 for the steep pull up Mynydd Tarw, 19 minutes from the car. Then good ridge running, although very boggy, over the Foel Wen and Tomle tops to the contouring path at Ffordd Gam Elin. Nipped over to Cadair Bronwen, all at good pace, then superb continuous running along the ridge with excellent far-reaching views down to Shropshire and up to central Snowdonia. Very green after all the rain, and boggy even on the main ridge. Moel Sych is always boggy, despite its name, and today was no exception. From here, we nipped along the very narrow path above Llyn Lluncaws and straight down to Maen Gwynedd: 2:15 for the complete circuit, quite a good pace. Followed this run with the full run up Moel Famau next day (ie this evening). Combined with an 11 mile Hope Mountain run on Monday, intervals on Tuesday, and the 10k on Wednesday, it feels like a fuller week for a change.

Roaches climbing

Crag: Roaches Lower Tier, Peak
Routes: Fledgling climb (S4a:sec), Prow Corner right-hand (HVD4a:led), Prow Crack (D:sol), Captain's lethargy (VD:led)
Managed to squeeze a brief climbing trip to the Roaches in after a long day at a conference in Derby. Given 6am start, long stressful day, and very poor unseasonal weather, a few easy climbs was all we could realistically manage. Met Dale at Ramshaw, but the crag looked damp so we moved round to the Roaches lower tier, empty on a Saturday which says something about the conditions. Dale led Fledgling Climb up a blunt arete on the lower tier in damp and windy conditions. Not a bad route. I followed up with the simple Prow Corner: took the obvious twin cracks right of the corner for an enjoyable steady lead, albeit very easy. We were obviously in for a soaking, big black clouds steaming in from the south, so I nipped up Prow Crack - great fun, then Captain's Lethargy, in super-quick time. We just managed to get some damp bouldering in: literally sprinting between micro-routes in the drizzle, before a real downpour sent us scurrying to the car. Quite a contrast with Esterel! Still haven't managed to get back on track with the running, but did manage 12 miles from Cadole to Pantymwyn and back, then up Moel Famau by the normal route on Friday evening.

Foel Fras race

Race: Foel Fras fell race (12m/3100ft)
Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Garnedd Uchaf, Moel Wnion
Time/Position: 2:11:49 (12/84)
An unexpectedly memorable day out. I got back from Glasgow last night, after deciding against an attempt on Tranter's round in the Highlands (gales, blizzards prevailing), so decided to do this AL race at the last minute. Very little running since the marathon, so was pleased to feel good for the very long but relatively gentle climb from Aber over the Roman Road and track to Drum. The wind was swirling around at this point, but only light rain. Very windy for the route over to Foel Fras, where the conditions really deteriorated. However, I felt good, enjoying the conditions, and raced across to Garnedd Uchaf in heavy rain, mist and strong winds. The crucial navigation came at just the wrong time for most runners: tired after a long climb, just as the weather closed in, ideal for hypothermia. A small group of us struggled to take a bearing (my hands were frozen and couldn't move the compass base) and we headed off WNW to pick up the track skirting the Beras. Really quite uncomfortable, very wet and mildly hypothermic throughout. But the big col below Wnion is a sizeable target, and the mist cleared as we descended. I then took off up Wnion, but with very stiff legs this was not especially runnable. Recovered to make a pretty quick descent from the top of Wnion over Cras to the village - the sea almost Med-like as the weather ironically cleared up! Arrived at the finish to find the conditions had decimated the field, with lots of runners awol higher up. Cracking race, a lovely logical circuit, and very runnable even for me.

Colle sur Loup climbs

Crag: Colle sur Loup, Alpes-Maritimes, France
Routes: Le triomphe des grosses (f5b:sec), Ainsi grimpait Patrick (f6a+:sec), Altitude 1664 (f6a:sec), Sourire Kabyle (f6a:sec), Le grimpeur du val (f5b:led), Monsieur Spoc (f5c:sec), Bibi et Fricotin (f5b:sec), Le Maitre des equilibres (f6a+:sec), Ethylia (f5c:led), Le chouchou (f3:sol), L'age des cavernes (f4:sol), Horizontal illimite (f3:sol), Genie sans frotter (f3:sol), Si la terre (f3:sol)
We dubbed this the 'airport crag', since it seems to be the closest climbing to Nice airport. Hardly the best crag in Provence, but still a good choice for the inevitably short final day. The crag (Bagaree) is extremely convenient, even by French standards, with names/grades given on an official plaque beside the cliff. It was a pleasant change to sample some limestone after Esterel's rhyolite, although all the routes were extremely polished. Nice locale, too, in a small gorge right next to the River Loup. Vic led the corner of Le Triomphe, and we took the opportunity to TR the harder routes right. All involved similar moves to gain and then leave a series of horizontal breaks: lots of long reaches and tenuous pushes required for success. Sourire Kabyle 6a took a couple of attempts to work out the sequence. I led the juggy 5b wall of Le grimpeur, followed by the good line of Monsieur Spoc - a waterworn 5c groove, very polished. Le Maitre des equilibres was another notable 6a+ involving a sustained bouldery sequence of moves to gain a jug at the break. Finished in fine style, with a lead of Ethylia which seemed perhaps the line of the crag. Ultra-polished, like marble in places, but I polished it off pleasingly comfortably. Steep moves gain the top of a big flake. Then a steep but juggy wall gains a final layback to the top. Easily the best route of the day, a nice finale. Played around on a few microroutes at the end of the crag, ostensibly to assess their suitability for the family when we come in July, but also to bring the route total up to 40 for the four days of the trip! Left for the airport after a relaxing paddle in the Loup.

Blavet, Roussivau climbs

Crag: Gorges du Blavet, Esterel, France
Routes: Le Deserteur (f5a:led), J'irai cracher sur vos tombes (f6a:sec), Vergecinclitorix (f5c:sec), Minez la police (f5c:led), L'automne a Pekin (f6a:sec), Cristal qui songe (f6a:sec), Comme un avion sans aile (f6a:sec), Le double je du tu (f5a:led), Je est un autre (f5a:sec)
Crag: Barre de Roussivau, Esterel, France
Routes: Zootomie (f5a:sec), Zourouche (f4a:sec), Martians go home (f4b:led)
Quite a big day, as the list of routes suggests. It was always the plan to head off to Blavet at some point and, although we were detained too long by the shorter routes, the visit gave some superb climbing. The edge of the gorge is gained quite easily down a scrambly path and the routes on the first big slab were impossible to resist. I led Le Deserteur (5a) as an hors d'oeuvre. Delightful climbing, gently sustained at low-end British VS: perfect rough rock, not a hint of polish, and some nice, elegant moves. J'irai cracher (6a) upped the grade and was a tremendous, varied 20m pitch. A delicate start on very small holds, followed by an easier section to a powerful semi-overhanging flake which is laybacked. The crux comes right at the top: a very long reach over a big bulge for a huge jug. Vic then led Vergecinclitorix, a soft-touch 5c up the slender pillar right of the deep chimney. Another appealing and excellent climb, with some very enjoyable moves. I followed with a lead of Minez la police (5c) at the far left of the crag. This was quite sustained for the first 10m, a splendid sequence of moves on small, positive holds to an easier section leading to a final steep wall. Another really good 20m pitch. Followed by seconding L'automne a Pekin - very tough start up a smooth wall on tiny holds gains more sustained 6a climbing on small crimps. Great stuff. After clearing up the routes on this face, we moved up to the Petit Canyon which was attractively shaded. Seconding Vic up to the final slab, and crux, of Cristal (6a+). This was far harder than it looked, but an excellent line - felt like UK E2. Up a leaning flake to steep sustained moves right to an awkward sloping groove. Followed up with Comme un avion, up an obvious thin groove left. After feeling good and climbing well earlier on, I started to feel the pace here and found this 6a tricky - began to feel clumsy and weak! Awkward bridging on small holds and lichenous rock gain the top with a superb view out to the spectacular main canyon. Finished with two undergraded slabby routes, delicate - but me feeling tired. We topped out on the second of these and walked back to the car, hoping to perk up with some food before heading to Roussivau. After a longish drive, we arrived at the forest lodge and began the steep walk in, the only time we were uncomfortably hot all trip, up the maquis to the crag. I've done a lot of the routes here, but wanted to at least visit the place again. Vic led Zootomie, the delightful VS up the positive crack on the edge of the slab. I did this several times in the early 90s, so it was nice to do it again (and Zourouche, the groove on the left). Finished with a lead of Martians go home (f4b), which was an ideal way to end. A nice little UK Severe, up jugs to a lovely traverse right above a small cave, then more jugs up a shallow groove to finish. This crag has a unique ambience - nightingales and cuckoo singing, honey buzzard overhead as we walked back to the car through wild honeysuckle and other interesting maquis flora. Nice to have a three minute trip back to the campsite and well deserved beer.

Pic du Perthus climbs

Crag: Pic du Perthus, Esterel, France
Routes: Reynard aux 8000 couleurs (f5b+,f5c,f5a+:led p.1,p.3), M'as-tu Vu? (f5b+:led), Les Jeunes Loups (f5b:sec), En attendant god off p.1 (f5c:led), Profit au Tyrol p.2 (f5c:sec)
After a good night's sleep, and a beautiful Agay dawn, the time seemed right for a day on the Esterel's most impressive crag. Pic du Perthus is a tremendous venue - a good half hour walk from Col de Mistral, and therefore has a powerful, remote atmosphere. Remarkable, given its proximity to the coast. We walked down the defunct road then up the new track to the bottom of the crag, going straight across to the far right of the cliff and what I hoped was the start of Reynard. Bit of guesswork, as the first pitch goes up a slabby corner to gain an easier broken section. Then two steep walls with interesting moves on small positive holds gain a lovely belay ledge. A good 40m pitch with a strong mountaineering flavour, delightfully varied. Vic then led the excellent second pitch, more sustained - top end British VS - on perfect rock up little walls and flakes to gain another atmospheric ledge near the top of the crag. I completed the route with a delicate slab which led to finishing jugs. Grande classique - a great mountaineering route in a fabulous position. We scrambled down the descent gully to the 25m slab of perfect rock which I remembered from my last visit in 1994. I led M'as-tu vu at the left of the slab. Steeper than the other routes with a very hard start (one rest). Felt 6a+ at least. Then sustained but positive small holds led to the top. Seconded the splendid Jeunes Loups (f5b) which I did in 1994 - superb gently sustained climbing on perfect rock, solutions never obvious, good satisfying moves. The slab was sun-drenched and hot, so we moved back to the main face as I was keen for Vic to sample the corner line of Profit au Tyrol, a route that's lived in my memory since 1994. I decided to vary the route up to it, taking the direct pitch of En attendant god off (f5c). This was an excellent 25m British HVS pitch. A steep series of grooves, all leading logically to the large belay ledge - small jugs and fine, satisfying climbing. Seconded Vic up the fabulous top corner of Profit au Tyrol: steep all the way, but festooned with ludicrously perfect holds, particularly on the final overhang. Two abs saw us back at the foot of the crag as the first drop of rain fell. Light drizzle as we walked back, then a downpour all afternoon (but we'd planned to get food anyway!). I went for a 5 mile run (the 'Germain' circuit) around the Esterel later that evening.

Cap Dramont climbs

Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel, France
Routes: Du Punch dans les Roubignoles (f5b, led), Viet Congs en Folie (f5c?, sec), Un Adminicul au prealable du trop directe (f5c, led), Un Adminicul normale (f5c, sec), Un Taxi pour que brute (f5c, sec), Brouille-moi l'ecoule (f4c, led), Divorce pour faute (f6a?, sec), Va Comprendre Charles (f5a, led), Bento (f5b, sec)
After a 7.15 flight, we were at the crag in glorious sunshine by midday. Azure blue sky, the Med shimmering below the red rhyolite rocks of this cracking crag. Dramont was the ideal place to begin our all-too-brief Provencal climbing trip: a short walk, straitforward well-bolted routes, deliciously warm, and a fabulous scenic contrast with home. We started sensibly on the shady east face. I began with a lead of Du Punch (f5b), an obvious slabby groove line. This was a good choice: steady and very enjoyable climbing, just a shame it wasn't twice as long. Vic then led the undergraded Viet Congs en Folie (f5c?) up the much steeper groove to the right. Hard moves follow to leave the groove and traverse the steep wall right to gain the arete: another good route. I then upped the standard with a lead of Un Adminicul (f5c), following the direct start up the steep but positive crack/groove at the left of this section. This leads to a high step before a steep, strenuous traverse left to gain a short bottomless groove. Sustained but positive climbing up this gains the top - a really good, varied route. Followed this with the awkward normal start to the route, then seconded the crack/groove (Un Taxi? 5c) in full. Needed a rest after these relatively strenuous routes, so led Brouille-moi l'ecoute (f4c) - a pleasant and relaxing pitch up the obvious slabby flake on the left of the cliff. Then seconded Divorce pour faute, with a seemingly desperate start up small, sloping holds. Tiring now, unsurprisingly after a 5am start from HK. So finished with a lead of the slabby Va Comprendre Charles (f5a) on the main face - a good long pitch, fairly simple and steady but gently thought-provoking and sustained at the standard throughout. Vic finished with the overgraded Bento (f5b), an easy romp up a slabby crack. Good start, just a shame that the big routes were busy - and we were rather tired!

Famau run

Just recuperating after London, so nothing much done this week. A cold had developed by Monday, but cleared in time for the Moel Famau run this evening. Felt surprisingly good all the way to the top in nice sunshine. Now looking forward to the Provencal climbing trip: we leave early on Sunday morning.