Saturday, May 16, 2009

Roaches climbing

Crag: Roaches Lower Tier, Peak
Routes: Fledgling climb (S4a:sec), Prow Corner right-hand (HVD4a:led), Prow Crack (D:sol), Captain's lethargy (VD:led)

Managed to squeeze a brief climbing trip to the Roaches in after a long day at a conference in Derby. Given 6am start, long stressful day, and very poor unseasonal weather, a few easy climbs was all we could realistically manage. Met Dale at Ramshaw, but the crag looked damp so we moved round to the Roaches lower tier, empty on a Saturday which says something about the conditions. Dale led Fledgling Climb up a blunt arete on the lower tier in damp and windy conditions. Not a bad route. I followed up with the simple Prow Corner: took the obvious twin cracks right of the corner for an enjoyable steady lead, albeit very easy. We were obviously in for a soaking, big black clouds steaming in from the south, so I nipped up Prow Crack - great fun, then Captain's Lethargy, in super-quick time. We just managed to get some damp bouldering in: literally sprinting between micro-routes in the drizzle, before a real downpour sent us scurrying to the car. Quite a contrast with Esterel! Still haven't managed to get back on track with the running, but did manage 12 miles from Cadole to Pantymwyn and back, then up Moel Famau by the normal route on Friday evening.

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