Sunday, May 03, 2009

Cap Dramont climbs

Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel, France
Routes: Du Punch dans les Roubignoles (f5b, led), Viet Congs en Folie (f5c?, sec), Un Adminicul au prealable du trop directe (f5c, led), Un Adminicul normale (f5c, sec), Un Taxi pour que brute (f5c, sec), Brouille-moi l'ecoule (f4c, led), Divorce pour faute (f6a?, sec), Va Comprendre Charles (f5a, led), Bento (f5b, sec)

After a 7.15 flight, we were at the crag in glorious sunshine by midday. Azure blue sky, the Med shimmering below the red rhyolite rocks of this cracking crag. Dramont was the ideal place to begin our all-too-brief Provencal climbing trip: a short walk, straitforward well-bolted routes, deliciously warm, and a fabulous scenic contrast with home. We started sensibly on the shady east face. I began with a lead of Du Punch (f5b), an obvious slabby groove line. This was a good choice: steady and very enjoyable climbing, just a shame it wasn't twice as long. Vic then led the undergraded Viet Congs en Folie (f5c?) up the much steeper groove to the right. Hard moves follow to leave the groove and traverse the steep wall right to gain the arete: another good route. I then upped the standard with a lead of Un Adminicul (f5c), following the direct start up the steep but positive crack/groove at the left of this section. This leads to a high step before a steep, strenuous traverse left to gain a short bottomless groove. Sustained but positive climbing up this gains the top - a really good, varied route. Followed this with the awkward normal start to the route, then seconded the crack/groove (Un Taxi? 5c) in full. Needed a rest after these relatively strenuous routes, so led Brouille-moi l'ecoute (f4c) - a pleasant and relaxing pitch up the obvious slabby flake on the left of the cliff. Then seconded Divorce pour faute, with a seemingly desperate start up small, sloping holds. Tiring now, unsurprisingly after a 5am start from HK. So finished with a lead of the slabby Va Comprendre Charles (f5a) on the main face - a good long pitch, fairly simple and steady but gently thought-provoking and sustained at the standard throughout. Vic finished with the overgraded Bento (f5b), an easy romp up a slabby crack. Good start, just a shame that the big routes were busy - and we were rather tired!

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